ok I tvink the pf I am swapping has 4 wires for gi...
And I am trying to figure what this 4 wire bunch went to. The game worked for the most part.

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They go here....

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Thanks..
So something wasnt working.

The two wires that are soldered directly to the pbc.. do those go to the GI? Mine has a 4 wire connector..
ty

I don't see a 4 wire connector on yours. I see the same 2 wires soldered on mine that I see soldered on yours...just different color wire.

Some of my system 11's have 4 wires in that spot. One comes from that yellow jumper wire that connects those 2 plains. I can look at it better tomorrow.

You are right. ..It’s 6. I am pretty sure that’s my gi..
So I don’t know what that 2 wire from the board goes. I think this pf is slightly different.. or I am just not looking at correctly
Ty

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Does this help? Bottom corner of the Power Supply board:

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yes. Perfect.
In my head I had thought the wires directly from the power board were gi out
Not sure why I didn’t think to goto ipdb. Thank you

Hello, does anyone of you know why the main power board below the blue relay in some models contains a fuse?

Ummm, look back at the modifications I made to mine. That would be a start. In a nutshell, I modified my game to have the mystery award always be lit. It balanced out the scoring a lot better.

I always thought it would be cool to have the 2x insert flash during multiball and Another cool feature would be to add a rule for 3x playfield and flash the 3x insert for 20 seconds starting 3x scoring when that is achieved. Maybe something difficult like completing the lit left orbit/flasher for 25k during multiball or, completing all stand ups during multiball.

Make the bell sound whenever you drill a spinner for more than 50K... Add # of spins achieved in the credit/match display. Add the ability to change the “special” value to be 100k/200k/300k/400k/500k instead of just 100K.
Easy way to add a jackpot rule in settings without actually changing the rules.

Look at post #195 on previous page in this thread.

That's a cool mod. I also started doing mods to re-balance a game. Jungle Lord in my case. I could not think of a switch mod like yours to solve the main problem I had with the game so I went the software route. I have come to really enjoy modding WMS pinball software, which is what started the conversation with @ss-pinball. Overall, I enjoy FP2 on my tablet, but I do not like the ramp shot very much. I have never played an FP2 "in the flesh", so I don't know if I like it enough to want to buy it and spend 100 hours plus to disassemble and analyze the software.

The problem with modding system 7 game software is that there is very little space in the ROM to begin with. (Jungle Lord literally had zero bytes free and I managed to free fewer than 100 bytes for all my mods.) So what's achievable depends very much on what is already in the ROM somehow. For example I managed to implement a ball saver in Jungle Lord with only a few bytes because there is already something like a ball saver that's part of the original game rules. Implementing a multiball jackpot, like you suggest, is likely beyond what there is space for. Problem is you cannot tell for sure before you have essentially analyzed the entire game ROM.

I just figured since the 100K special already exists in the code that an unused dip switch could be utilized to change the base value of the special award.

I finally got my pf back in the machine
Curious how many of you have added the speech? I know swlllie has done it’s and said a few sounds get cut out. But I think speech adds a real coolness to first one.
I am seriously considering it for the one I plan on keeping. Thanks for any thoughts.

Personally, I think the speech is annoying. It does nothing for me.

I had the Original FP. Alone side FP2. I definitely never get tired of hearing the speech.

http://pinballpcb.com/products/williams-system-6-7-sound-and-speech-combo/
Worth the $150...IMO

I must have missed it but how do you go about adding speech to FP2?

plug and play. its a combo board with roms. ready to go. your old sound board will need to be removed a have fun
nd replaced. check the link.

Honestly FP2 not having speech is part of why I like it better than original FP

One of MANY reasons!

Thought I'd post this question here for all the FP2 experts. I was playing the game the other day when I noticed that the upper right pop bumper quite working. I put it in a switch test and it does not register at all. I put it in a solenoid test and it doesn't fire the solenoid either, which I thought was very strange as I would think it would show some sign of life in either test but so far I've not gotten it to do anything. I wanted to jumper the ground tab on the transistor and the solenoid but didn't have any wire with me. But what would cause neither the switch or the solenoid to not work?

John

If the quick and dirty coil test doesnt fire the solenoid from the tran tab. Follow the trace from the tran to the connector. Connector wire to under the PF to the pop. Maybe cut wire, diode disconnect, cold solder....

After i sold my original FP. I had to have the speech, for each their own!

So does it just use the same speech as FP?

yes, pretty much the same...

But shouldn't I had at least gotten the switch to activate? Seems really weird that both things went out at once.

John

Did you check the coil? Verified it is good?

Not yet, I don't have the game here at the house it's at a friends house but I plan on going back on Friday. The spoon switch wont work in test mode either.

John

Es muy fácil saber cuándo un interruptor de láminas de un bumper (en este caso de cuchara) no sirve, cuando desarme mi máquina deje el switch muy pegado, lo que ocasionó que el fusible de 2.5 A tronara varias veces.
Para ajustarlo use un voltimetro con unos caimanes, esto para ver hasta donde tenía que doblar la lámina para que tuviera un buen contacto a la hora de ser activada, en modo zumbador puedes probar que algunas cosas estén conectados al mismo lado o en la misma línea/serie con este modo del voltimetro puedes verificar que tú switch se conecte correctamente, si sigue fallando puede ser que el diodo este mal conectado, también puedes verificar con el zumbador que los cables estén conectados bien del bumper a la tarjeta sin que está tenga algún error (falso contacto, conector quemado, cable dañado)
Espero eso pueda servir, si no llegara a servir ninguna de las pruebas puedes seguir preguntándonos

I really appreciate the response but I'm having a little trouble comprehending....LOL.

John

Thanks SS. BTW: Did you cut and paste his entire reply into google and it translated it all at once or how else did you do it?

John

Yeah, just copy text and paste it into the Google translate box.

Sorry for not writing everything in English, the translator then wrongly conjugates the words making it seem like he says something else that I don't want to say, I think it's better that he write it to you in Spanish, Clytor and ss-pinball Can help you Dayhuff Translating things, I think they could help you in this situations

Hello, does anyone of you know why some speakers come with this design without the W? Is it because they were bandalized the same as mine? that some evil child has ripped it off and someone restored it with a black grid?

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Are you machines because they won't come with the W? I have seen only one machine on Youtube that is a mixture of both, it only has the W in the center without the characteristic yellow and red lines, I could never see what mine looked like, but I knew that if I got the W even though as I said it was vandalized /:

Mine doesn't have the W. Doesn't look to have been messed with.

Nothing was vandalized... Some had it and some did not. Seems to be about 50/50 from the ones I have seen in the last 10 years.

By the way, you know where I can get a grille material to restore mine, mine they ripped off part of the chrome and all the W because as I said before it was in the arcades, They know of any trustworthy page that sells the grid or someone who posted it here on Pinside

Here’s a decent picture of one with the logo:

On the ones without it, that area is covered with black fabric. I thought someone was reproducing the entire plastic trim of the speaker panel but it does not have the logo. Maybe he could send you some of the black backing material and you could paint it?

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Yes, I have seen how they are originally, thanks to a very nice guy in this forum my panel will look very good, I have the scans but the problem is to find the grid, My panel machine went through several things, like: It had a 5 inch horn and it was screwed directly to the wood, the 4 screws were cut, as I said the W was ripped off, the chrome was destroyed in one part, The ground contact was also removed / stolen and the grill that originally came from the back (with the horn) is missing, Now I have two bolts restored to it, I have attached the 6 inch horn and I have placed its ground contact again, now I am waiting for the chrome thanks to the kind boy I mentioned before
I have a photo of how it was, they put a horn grill that drilled part of the chrome to be put, soon I send you a photo of how it is currently, here is an image that I take, Excuse the high quality jajq
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speaking of grid I saw that mine lacks the one that the transformer had, any idea where do I get it? I have seen here that they mentioned the subject but not where to get it, right?