(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

6 years ago



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  • 3,529 posts
  • 298 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 132 Pinsiders

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#73 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Question guys, Kind of new to all this. One of my pop bumpers seems to be slugglish. It fires right away but when the metal ring/yoke returns to the top it seems slow going up. Like it's dragging. I yet to tackle taking one apart.

Time for a rebuild:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

#76 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

But the idea still scares me. But I'm going to get the parts for all 4 and go at it with your guide by side

Buy enough parts for 5 pops, just in case you drop one and it bounces into oblivion.

Or you put a nice new skirt on, and the edge chips 3 days latter....

It won't be hard at all to rebuild, and if you get stuck, we are here to help you.

#86 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Are parts for rebuilding pops usually available at the shows? Such as Pinball at the Zoo.. Or am I better off ordering online?

Usually Gene would have them, but now that he is out of the picture (he was not at the MPE either), you might have to get them online.

2 weeks later
#131 6 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I just bought my first LEDs at Allentown on Friday and experimented with them in a few places in my FP. For whatever reason, they refused to work in the pop bumpers, though other bulbs light there just fine. Any idea what the problem is here?

You need a "more complex" LED bulb for those early pops that are under CPU control.

Try a 5 LED bulb and it will work.

#136 6 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Does that mean they won't work in ANY controlled lamps (like inserts) and are only good for GI, or is it just a quirk with the pop bumpers? (at the moment I can't slide the glass out and check myself)

Just not in the pops.

1 month later
#161 5 years ago
Quoted from Slim2013:

So, Where is the best place to get the 40 pin connector and headers ? Part Numbers please. Thanks

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=82

2 weeks later
#165 5 years ago

Spinners and Targets (pic looks ganked, but it dowloads fine)

SpinnerAndTargets.pdf

10 months later
#357 4 years ago

The first flyer shows drop targets in front and bullseye along the sides.

firepower-pinball-machine-flyer-williams.jpg
3 months later
#404 4 years ago

that would look badass in red sparkle

7 months later
#676 4 years ago
Quoted from Adrift:

OK...a picture of the bottom.

You've got a fancy bottom there......

1 week later
#714 4 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

What did you select for the coil stop?

A-12111

Quoted from dzorbas:

I'm assuming those setups come with the high voltage EOS switch as well.

Nope, you've got to email Terry and tell him you need #03-7811 as a substitution.

Quoted from dzorbas:

How about some pictures?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606

#717 4 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Im wondering if the ones built for star inserts work decent and if buying direct from germay, the only place ive found one, has worked out for folks?

There was a big thread on that a few weeks ago.

Can't find it on my phone....lol

2 weeks later
#732 4 years ago

Always make sure you get the correct caps, not the crap looking remakes.

ad5f4b0a53b48f8d390081e3e6157d07431fb4e1_(resized).jpg

#742 4 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I always found it interesting how all/most original Firepower pop caps have the same flaw on the left side stripes, like there was some dirt or a defect in the hot stamping. Every picture I've seen shows the same smudges.

Latter in the run, someone must have damaged the die that stamps the foil.

Williams obviously did not care, just keep the line moving.

If anyone has a small CNC mill, they could easily make new hot stamp dies that has the correct graphics on them. They are just milled from brass.

2 weeks later
#753 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Anyway, comparing it to my original, the colors are different.

That can happen from keeping them too close to omnipolar speakers.

2 years later
#2186 1 year ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Is there anything I can do about it other than trade the display out?

Swap the display with another player number (like swap #2 for #4) and see if the problem is still there.

Quoted from La_Porta:

my #2 player display developed an issue that i am sure came about from transporting a 38 year old display.

It's not from transportation.

Pins are subject to constant vibration, dropping to dislodge balls, bangbacks to save balls - none of that hurts the game.

You can lower the display voltage to make the displays last longer, but sooner or later, they kick despite your efforts.

Quoted from La_Porta:

It's sad, though, because all my displays are all stamped with the machine's serial number, meaning they are all original.

You can just install a new glass panel display, and keep your original decaled display board.

This has probably been done several times in the game's life.

#2188 1 year ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Well I did swap the connectors...same deal.

You swapped positions or connectors?

Did you plug #2 display into the #4 position?

You want to make sure it's not the cable....nor the driver board.

Quoted from La_Porta:

http://www.competitiveproducts.com/list.php?id=333

Are those compatible? Do you have another source for new ones other than that?

You have to make sure that the nipple that sticks out of the back matches your display circuit board. You might have to call them

#2194 1 year ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

Does anyone know why I keep blowing the 1000uf 25v cap at the c26 position (second cap from the bottom)?

Because all the caps are installed backwards.

See the little + sign on the board?

See where you have the "-" side of the cap connected to where the board says + ?

The side of the cap with the "collar" indent on it is the + side.

#2195 1 year ago
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#2197 1 year ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

My first recap

You got to learn sometime.

At least you did not blow up a MPU or something......

1 week later
#2215 1 year ago
Quoted from EAZ:

Does anyone have a pdf file of the keylines and/or insert decals for firepower they would be willing to share?

FirePower pinball decals.pdf
1 week later
#2223 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

. It does boot now but about 1 game and it will freeze up.

Boot up the game into attract mode.

Gently twist each socketed IC in both directions, like you are tweaking an old-time radio dial.

Whichever IC makes the game freeze is the one that needs a new socket.

1 week later
#2258 1 year ago
Quoted from Lemank:

Just joined the club. Not once but twice!

Make a Head2Head game out of them.

All the cool kids are doing it.

3 weeks later
#2318 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

What type of lube do you use on these? I cleaned them with an ultrasonic cleaner, then put zoom spout filler oil on them. They still fell stiffer than I would expect. [quoted image]

Polish those plungers a little, put new sleeves in the coils. Use a fine file or emery stick to take any burr off the plunger tip.

That is not a "high action" part, so it only needs to kick the balls out, nothing fancy.

I use the same Zoom Spout Oil that I put in a little Needle Oiler.

Remember folks, almost nothing on a pin needs oil, only the metal on metal pivot points.

#2330 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Do you take that fiber board off when you put them in the tumbler?

I don't tumble plungers, it's quicker to just give them a fast rub down with a rag and Novus2.

We just want them free of any oxidation that might hang up in the sleeve.

#2333 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Does anyone know how to get these little metal things out of the old plastic so that I can put them into the new plastic?

Stick your soldering iron in the hole and they just pull out with a twist.

#2334 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

vid1900 you mention the long nose upholstery stapler to put the pop bumpers back together, is there a manual tool which can do that? It seems a bit unnecessary for me to buy a $100+ staple gun for a few pop bumpers. That said, I also don’t want to try to push the old staples back in.

You can use a $20 20 gauge pneumatic stapler if you want from HF.

or a manual staple gun (your going to have a sore hand).

Quoted from Aniraf:

Does anyone ever just solder shielded wire to the lamp post, then run it down to the junction?

Yep

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet#post-4470189

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Quoted from Aniraf:

I laugh at the fact that these machines have unshielded wire stapled all over the bottom of the playfield like an electric spider web.

You don't have to follow that path:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4559360

#2338 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Looks like comet stopped selling these .

I think they just moved the url

https://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpdisc.htm

#2342 1 year ago

Check the driver and pre-driver transistors BEFORE you replace that coil.

#2343 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Huh…I looked all over. I must have missed it. Thanks again!

I updated the original post with the new location.

That's the problem will all those reference posts, you'd need a full time team to keep all the links current

#2345 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

This game has a RottenDog MPU, so I suspect that it could have had much bigger issues at some point. The prior owner didn't even notice that it was unhooked when I called it out. I guess I could just solder it back on and do some testing?

That adds a whole new wrinkle, lol

There is no rush for a working knocker, so get the correct coil on your next parts order.

Make sure you solder the wires on the correct side of the coil diode.

Then when you power on, leave your finger on the power switch in case the coil instantly locks.

If you are still good, go into Coil Test and make sure she fires correctly.

1 week later
#2355 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

vid1900 your trick to get them out with the soldering iron worked like magic…but how do you put them in the new plastic?

This time, put the soldering iron tip into the large end of the bell, press the small end of the bell into the plastic, it will slip right in.

#2358 1 year ago

Not every backbox socket needs a bulb with LEDs, often you can skip 1/3 of them

Even a 1smd is a lot of light for a backbox, you might consider some regular LEDs to further dim it down

#2360 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Do you prefer to dremel off the flanged edge or leave it?

I leave it, so they stay stuck to the plastic.

Some games have 6 of them on one piece - that's too much monkeying around lining them all back up to replace a bulb.

You can also "un-cinch" them by putting a same size drill bit or center punch through the small hole, then using the round section of needlenose pliers, flatten off the rolled edge.

Doreen-Box-Stainless-Steel-Short-Needle-Nose-Pliers-Hand-Tools-Wire-Cutter-Serrated-Inner-Surface-Black.jpg_640x640 (resized).jpg
#2362 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Don't follow how that would work
Is the goal to squeeze into the punch?

Use soldering iron to remove Bell

Use drill bit or punch to keep cinched hole from becoming deformed (like an internal die)

Use NN pliers to squeeze the lip against the punch shaft - flattening out the lip

#2366 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Do they sell new ones and some kind of “flanger” I could just strike them with? They kind of remind me of those grommets you can buy at Lowe’s.

New ones are $8 each, so don't lose the old ones.

Originally, they were cinched in a press, so a die would press them into shape.

1 week later
#2399 1 year ago
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1 week later
#2422 1 year ago
Quoted from WeLoveScott:

Question: Is there something particular to the way the top left jet bumper is wired? I've noticed that when mine is hooked up the 2.5A solenoid fuse blows (with a new coil.)
It's run by Q2/17, does that mean two transistors/pre-transitor drivers need to be replaced?

Did you hook up the coil backwards?

When you buy a new coil, the diode is sometimes flipped compared to the factory coil.

What matters is the band on the diode, not L or R lug.

#2430 1 year ago
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#2434 1 year ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Come on now Vid, it's not bad. Pictures never do it justice. I've seen 1000 times worse...

"Your Honor, and members of the jury, may I remind you my client is not that bad. Killing a single person is nothing compared to David Berkowitz, who was 1000 times worse."

#2436 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I think I need some assistance specifically targeted to the Rottendog MPU.

Disconnect everything but the power to the MPU.

Now read us the voltages.

Also switch your meter to A/C, and give us the ripple on the 5v line.

#2440 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

TP2 NMI 4.8 Vdc
TP4 BLNK 0 V
TP5 IRQ 4.7 Vdc
TP6 BUS 2.0 Vdc
TP7 RST 0.5 Vdc
TP9 VCC 4.8 Vdc

These were measured after unplugging all of the molex plugs in the yellow circles.

Lastly, I'm going to need some tips on the 5v ripple measurement. I am not certain where to get that for you.

Good job on the measurements.

Your 5V is low consistently, so now you need to check it on the power supply board itself.

If you have 4.8 on the MPU, and 5.2 on the power supply, then you know your female connectors need re-pinning.

If you have 4.8 on the MPU and 4.8 on the power supply, then you know the power board needs fixin'

(if you want to check AC Ripple, turn your meter to AC and test the 5v again)

#2444 1 year ago
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#2450 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Any chance you can scan that schematic and post a PDF? It’s tough to read the letters on those pictures...
I can’t find it online either.

MPU327_schematic.pdf
1 week later
#2480 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

vid1900 or schwaggs sorry to bother, but do you have any further ideas after reading that last post I had? I really want to get this thing in working order. I hope to get a call back from Rottendog, but I think it would be wise to tap the experts as well .
Again, thank you for your time!

Go into Switch Test and see if the switches respond

#2490 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Ok, this causes it to do nothing. It boots but never attempts to start the displays. I ordered another nvram. Hopefully that will rule out any issue there.

I did not re-read the whole thread, but does the MPU work in Scorpion?

#2498 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I am trying to find info on the updated code for Firepower but I cannot seem to find any info. Does anyone know where I can find it? I know it requires a sys 7 board and 7 digit displays, but I imagine a repro rottendog sys 7 would work?

http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_softfirepowerdeluxe.html

It's called Firepower Deluxe

#2505 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Well, if anyone is still following this, I replaced the NVRAM, and nothing happened. Is there some sort of ROM that drives this Rottendog board? Based on the weirdness I see, I suspect somehow the code is faulty.

Does it boot when you have it on the bench connected to a computer power supply?

Does it boot when installed into Scorpion?

#2530 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

As for the fuses, can anyone tell me where you buy a 2.5A 32Vdc Slow Blow fuse???

GPE is good for mail order.

Menards has genuine Bussman fuses if you need local.

#2545 1 year ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

This is pretty significant. So once it's out of warranty, it breaks, throw it in the trash? Or did they provide you a list of third-party repair people that will work on Rotten Dog boards since the people that made them won't?
Richard

Companies only work on their own stuff so long, then you have to find 3rd party repair people to fix it.

If you call Stern to fix your 70s Stern boards, they'll tell you they no longer work on them.

If you call Apple to fix your Gen 1 iPod battery, they tell you it's obsolete.

If you blow your trans in your 2005 car, the dealer swaps it for a re-manufactured unit done by 3rd party.

Any pintech can fix those RD boards in minutes.

1 week later
#2569 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I fixed the knocker in my game, but I am having a weird issue where the piston thing sticks to the plate at the top. I have a brand new sleeve and coil. It does no seem magnetic, but maybe stuck in the sleeve, so I tried some graphite which made it worse. I bent the top of the bracket a tiny bit thinking that maybe it was making a kind of suction connection with it.
Nothing has worked. Do I have he piston backwards? I assumed the hollowed out “cup side” was designed to hit the metal plate.

Obviously, we need well lit, focused pictures.

It should move freely, by hand.

You could have an overheated coil, bad sleeve, wrong plunger.

Did it ever work correctly since you've had it?

1 month later
#2638 1 year ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

I had it all up and running for Christmas and then I turned it on this morning and my displays wont work correctly.
Any Ideas?
[quoted image]

Usually when you get the 0_0_0 displays it's one of the PIAs. Probably IC10 but maybe IC5

If those chips are socketed, press one of them back down and reboot. If that fixes it, replace that IC socket (it's bad).

ONLY PRESS ONE CHIP AT A TIME, or you won't know which one was the problem

#2643 1 year ago

You can measure the battery with a meter and make sure it still holds a proper charge.

Bad RAM or bad RAM socket can also make the machine go crazy, sometimes starting out fine, but getting worse as the machine warms up

#2655 1 year ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

If I turn it on with the door closed only the GI and some of the lights work.

Batteries dead?

Battery holder corroded?

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