(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club

By wiredoug

10 years ago


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  • 4,689 posts
  • 396 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by ChrisHibler
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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#4233 1 year ago

On the power supply board, disconnect all the output plugs, leaving only inputs J1 and J2 connected. Also, check the GI & logic power fuses in the backbox.

Check the cabinet fuses and the fuses on the power supply board, replace any that may be blown, and turn the game on.

If you DON'T have power on the PS board, then the problem is between the wall outlet and the PS board, or on the PS board.

If you DO have power on the PS board, check for all the correct voltages on the PS board. Next what I would do is turn the game off, and one by one, plug ONE output connector back into the PS board and then turn the game on again to see if you still have power. If a fuse blows after you plug a connector back in and turn the game on, then that will point you to the problem area based on which connector you attached that caused a fuse to blow.

http://firepowerpinball.com/downloads/BackboxWiring.pdf

#4235 1 year ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Thank you so much for this road map tom. I will perform it in the morning and report back.

When you get to the point of plugging the output connectors back into the PS board one at a time, I'd start with 3J6 since that is the power to the CPU board to see if the game will boot. When turning on the game, watch the 2 LED's on the CPU board and observe their flash sequence.

* CPU LEDs come on and stay on with no flash: the CPU board isn't booting or is locked up.
* CPU LEDs flash once and then stays on: the CPU board booted/tried to boot but has a ROM or PIA problem.
* CPU LEDs flash once quickly then go out: the CPU board is probably working OK, but will need the displays attached to see if there is are any other issues.

If you get the CPU/driver boards to boot OK, then turn off the game and plug in connector 3J4 to see if your lamps come back on or a fuse blows. This could be the problem area since that is what you were working on when the issues started.

If that works OK, then turn off and plug in 3J5 and turn back on to see if you get your displays back.

Lastly, I'd turn off the game again and plug in the solenoid connector 3J3 and power it up again.

Let us know how it goes!

#4243 1 year ago

Time to get your DMM out and start probing for voltage...

With the game plugged into the wall outlet, put your DMM into AC mode and check voltages with a black lead on one point and red on the other per the attached photo. Doesn't matter which lead is on each point.

FP-power1 (resized).jpgFP-power1 (resized).jpg

A-B voltage:
A-C voltage:
D-E voltage:

You should get around 120VAC for each of those.

Next, the red/white wires coming out of the line filter (D-E in photo) go to the blue/white connector that feeds the transformer in the back box in my photo. Disconnect the blue/white connectors and check the voltage between the red/white wires in the blue connector. Should still be around 120VAC.

Next step would be to check for the voltages coming out of your transformer into the J1/J2 connectors to your power supply after you reconnect the blue/white connectors.

In your photo, the input power LED's weren't on, but I'm not sure if you took that pic when the game was on or off. If you had power to your PS board, then those LED's should be on.

20221019_180555 (resized).jpg20221019_180555 (resized).jpg
#4249 1 year ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Holy crap! It came back on after I reconnected the white and blue connectors that feed the transformer!

Nice! Probably should re-pin that connector, both the male & female sides. Congrats on finding the problem!

#4252 1 year ago

You reconnected all the other connectors to your PS board, and everything is working again?

6 months later
#4366 11 months ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Okay good to know. Thanks Slochar
I have to get mine operating properly before I start to mess with the upgrades anyhow. Currently it boots into attract mode, adds credits like it should, but wont start a game. The 40 pin looks pretty good, but ill probably put a new one in when I pull the boards out. I need to replace the 40 year old power supply caps anyway. I noticed the PIA for switches is socketed and pulled the chip to inspect. Its pretty warped. The socket is MOLEX brand. Better than Scanbe I assume. Here's a pic of that chip.[quoted image]

Did you check the trough switches? If FP doesn't detect all 3 balls, it will not start a game.

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