I have had my Firepower II a little over a week...a long week of fixing and fine tuning. Just replaced the black rings with a new set of white ones...holy smokes this pin is scary fast. I have played my fair share of Firepower, love that pin. However, I have to give the nod to Firepower II as my favorite. 50v flippers, multiball, bonus carry over, amazing sound, that crazy bell when you hit the orbit special along with the GI blackout relay synced to the thunder, I'm even starting to like the stupid ramp a little even though I wish I could mod it with a ball lock there like FP1. Okay, so it doesn't talk...yet...

The ones from pinballdecals.com for sure. I just put them on my Firepower II...they look amazing, so far they are taking heavy abuse with no signs of wear. I think you will be very pleased with them.

Williams Blackout and Sorcerer both use the same explosion decal. You can find sets for those machines and just buy two sets to get the number you need. Or... I have the Firepower targets on my FPII, which I purchased from pinballdecals.com. They are thick nice quality targets which are holding up really well to the abuse in my machine, I highly recommend them. IPDB has a picture of the target you need under Blackout. Contact pinballdecals and I am betting they can make you a set. I wish I would of done that.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=317&picno=59970

http://www.pinballdecals.com/index.html

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The decals are thick enough that there is an indentation in back for the rivet and no hole in the image is needed so they could maybe fill the center of the image in solid yellow for you.

Congratulations, that should clean up nice...now that post between the flippers might have to go if you are a purest...

My Flight 2000 has one, once you learn to refrain from flipping if the ball is headed down the middle the post can often bounce it up and over either flipper, nudging just right can help create a save too. It adds a fun element. Firepower certainly can be a sdtm drain monster at times so I can see why someone would put one there, but I think the game is just tough enough the way it was designed and keeps you coming back to the challenge.

My Firepower II displays did the same thing, scrolling continuously...it is not a setting. You need to look at the hi voltage section of the power supply. One of my 2 100v caps was only giving around 50v. Since the traces were coming away from the board I just put in a new XPIN power supply which solved the problem. I'm very sure replaceing the 100v caps would have worked.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-957584

Mine has the Rottendog combo board too, as well as new sound and speech boards

The strobing left to right is indeed exactly what mine was doing.

Phenomenal job on that playfield, you can be proud of how that came out. Can't wait to see the cleared and populated playfield.

I had warped slings on my Hurricane...i put them on a glass table and warmed them with a hair dryer on hot setting. Does not get too hot so no real risk of melting just have to be patient. Held only 6 inches or so and after maybe 5 minutes they flattened nicely. I set parchment and a ceramic tile on them to cool, worked perfectly.

Good job getting the speech working. I added a new speech board awhile back and love it too. The speech does occasionally interrupt other cool sounds but is worth it overall. I posted a video on another thread when it was still set to 5 ball and had a switch it two that needed cleaning. Will wait to see your video, in which you ring the bonus carryover bell on ball 3 and get the extra game over bonus for maximum effect

I shot this video tonight with speech added. I did not hit the extra game over bonus, or light 5x bonus or hit the extra ball ramp shot when lit either. Tough game at times but keeps you coming back for more. Also the speech at game over varies...

It has color matched frosted LEDs for the inserts. White frosted LEDs for the GI except I put a blue and white under the slingshot plastics, red under the ABCD lane guides and a couple frosted color changers too. I'm not normally big on LEDs but this one already had a lot of them in place so I finished it up and really like it on this one.

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Sorry AlexS I really did not mean to offend. The pics were fine, it just struck me as ironic/funny that the inlanes were the only ones not there. I don't have this machine either, i just looked at the play field pics on the thread to see what they looked like. I bet a lot of these sets were bought just for the topper and inlanes, as well as the slingshots and 1000 point plastic which you have. I'm sure someone looking to replace them will be interested in what you have, they look mint.

This may be of no help but my FPII has new speech and sound boards and occasionally the sound would go quiet or cut out all together until I powered the game off/on. With the game off, I put the master volume control pot inside the cabinet thru a full range of motion clockwise/counterclockwise about a dozen times. It always seemed finicky when adjusting sound and I thought this would 'clean' off the contacts inside. Well it worked, now volume adjustment is smooth and sound has worked perfect since. Maybe someone else can chime in whether you could break the volume pot doing this. I figured next step would be disassemble and clean or replace.

LOL. Just saw McSquids post above... maybe I know a couple things after all.

I know, I have FP2 and I would almost buy this set just for the topper.

For what it's worth my Blackout reproduction from a couple years ago is gorgeous, just perfect as far as I'm concerned compared to the very degraded original. Of course the process it seems is easier as mentioned above.

Had this problem with my Flight 2000. If I recall, the middle switch was sticking, so machine would think there were still 2 balls in trough and kick last ball into trough. Had to fiddle with that switch a few times, ended up replacing the wire as it was really bent up before I had it.

I think that bulb blinks in attract mode but now im curious to see when i get home later. I will also look for those stickers too and post back if nobody else has already.

Edit: watched a TNT video, match light blinks. Probably a bad SCR on mpu?

Checked my game...match bulb does stay on solid in attract mode once you've completed a game. If your set to freeplay in home setting I would just disable the match feature.

As for those stickers, i could find neither of them in my cabinet. Sorry.

My FPII would get really loud and go to only background sound. A power off/on would fix it but kept happening. I put the volume knob inside cab thru a full range of motion clockwise/counterclockwise about a dozen times to hopefully clean the contacts inside. Worked, volume has been steady for a year now.

Just run the wires thru the opening that the slingshot armature passes through? Or are you drilling a separate hole to pass the wires down under?

These FPII plastics dont show up often, saw this in market and posting here in case someone needs them...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/64127

Are TILT, GAME OVER, and HI SCORE TO DATE lights out also? I'm no guru at this stuff, but those 3 plus the other 5 you mentioned are all on the same column of the lamp matrix. Says YEL/GRY wire but I can't find the connector associated with that that wire in the schematic, but I suppose either a break in that wire, bad connector, cracked solder at that pin on the board, or the driver on the board.

Addictive game, if one was on location by me i would feed it alot of quarters.

Absolutely...will go check the manual...okay setting 18 (maximum credits) set it to 0 (zero) for free play.

Go to www.ipdb.com and look up Firepower II and download the manual. The procedure is on page 12.

Like your taste in pins!

13-521-31 does not exist...

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Don't see that one either

If you mean the one above the center standup targets...mine says 31-521-11

Looking back, is this not the one that you circled, above the center standup targets?

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There is a 1 way gate for sure, will have to pull the glass later and I can take a look and measurements to try and match up with whats available.

Okay here are pics I took that show the wire gate better...and a link the wire gate which I am fairly certain is the correct one you need.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6511

The small wire tab that sits on the inside bracket arm is bent "up" slightly from the main loop allowing it to stop just in front of the rubber ring behind it.

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Mine has the third star post where you are missing yours. They have no rubber ring on them nor do I see any use/reason for them whatsoever.

As for the blinking inserts I have no clue... are they incandescent bulbs ot LEDs??

Show of hands, who likes Firepower II ?

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Hey just maybe carefully use a jumper wire with a couple small alligator clips to see what it fixes before soldering.

Trough lane switch. You want the switches to trigger fully, not "barely" trigger. The action of kicking the first ball into plunger lane can roll the other two balls backward just a bit, then gravity rolls them forward to the first two spots. If when they roll back a switch is momentarily open then closed again the game thinks you plunged a ball and it fell sdtm without scoring any points, so it kicks another ball into the plunger lane. I would suspect the first switch since it only happens with three balls in the trough.

Okay wait what head is this?

Except his has 6 digit scoring for each player...Fp2 Has 7 digits.

That’s awesome! Throw a ball in there, worlds first firepower pachinko machine