(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club

By wiredoug

6 years ago

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#608 4 years ago

Hey guys, I'm finally in the market for a Firepower myself, and there is one locally on eBay for pickup. Wanted to throw it to the pros here as to what you think about the machine, the pics (some pretty bad wear spots on the play field that I can see), and your overall impressions. Also, I'd love some advice as to what to look for specifically on such machines when going to test them out. Thanks!

The link to the machine is found here:

ebay.com link » Firepower Pinball With Rottendog Combo Mpu Driver Bd Upgrade

#612 4 years ago

Many thanks to those of you who have gotten back to me already. I figured that the price was on the high side from what I had seen, and I thank you all for your information, it has been very helpful! I wrote to the guy and asked a few questions last night, as well. He got back to me with some more info on what may not work perfectly. Here are the questions and the answers:

-Did you do the rotten dog upgrade yourself, and do you still have the original boards as well?
-I did see some expected play field wear in the pictures. Has the machine been shopped or overhauled by anyone in recent time?
-Are there any deficits in the play of the game that I should be aware of, or features that may not work 100% correctly?
-Have you made any other modifications or upgrades to the machine? Replaced anything else recently?
-Any specific reason that you are parting with the machine now?

I did not replace the board myself and I do not have the original.I did change the lane guides with new replacements.I also cleaned and waxed the.play field and put in a new speakerand I still have the original speaker.I am not sure if the tilt works.I do not know if there is a setting to change it from off to on.I do know that when I touch contacts with a screwdriver the tilt will function.The thunder sound did not always sound when sending the ball in play,but I cleaned the contacts and think it works most of the time.The reason I m selling it is because I thought it would be a great bonding tool between my 2 children and I but they have no interest,so it is hardly used and is just taking up space.Oh,a couple thousand of points are scored when it is a players turn without the ball even being put into play,but I think that is a pretty minor repair. I think I got all the questions answered.

#616 4 years ago

So from what I've seen here, I'm going to be talking this guy more into the ~$1000 range from $1600. I've got enough info from the forum from here to back up the roughly 1/3 price decrease from his asking price. If he won't bargain I'll simply walk...as we know, there are many out there!

#625 4 years ago

I'd like to see the pictures of this new backglass.

#632 4 years ago

That LED color back glass lighting looks stellar...no pun intended! Where does one find repro back glass anyway?

#634 4 years ago

Much appreciated. Looks like they have all kinds of stuff per their website. Now all I need is an actual machine!!

3 weeks later
#647 4 years ago

Might be purchasing a Firepower tomorrow...I wanted to know, for transport purposes, if someone can measure the height of the cabinet in the front and the back, not including the legs? I need to know if it will fit in my pickup bed...much appreciated!

#649 4 years ago
Quoted from rkahr:

they have dimensions on the "buying guide" in the "FP documents" section of the firepowerpinball.com website.

I did see those, but those show the dimensions from the top of the front to the bottom of the legs, and from the top of the back box to the bottom of the legs...there is no real way to extrapolate the "legless" heights from it.

#654 4 years ago

Everyone...I finally got my first pin last night! Picked up my Firepower from an incredibly nice buyer, I could not have had a better experience. He took me through the entire machine, all the work he had done, and what new parts he had. Then he helped me break down, move, and pack the parts into my truck.

For those who asked what I wanted to know the machine dimensions for, take a look at this picture:


I have a 5' truck bed, and the clearance from the top of the front of the machine from the roll-top was of concern, but it fit just fine. It was late at night, but I just couldn't resist setting it up in my basement when I got back:


It works 100%, we ran through an entire "game" with the glass off and checked all functions. There is a bit of wear by some of the multiplier lights, but that is it. It was so exciting to power it up and play my first game down there. Of course, I am already deciding what I want to replace on it. It does have an issue where striking targets 1-6 in the front causes the ball to sometimes pop up and hit the glass if hit hard dead on, and I assume that is due to the very rounded and worn nature of them. They will have to be replaced. I am also having a tough time getting the back glass back in...it doesn't seem to slide up far enough for me to then push the lower part in.

Thanks everyone who previously helped me find a machine that I have wanted for over two years!

#658 4 years ago

A move or a curtain are certainly in my future! I thought about the sunlight this morning, but I also have to find a spot that works for the wife.

#659 4 years ago

I just had used the wrong key, that solved the back glass problem! At least I got to oil the locking mechanism while I was there. How does one get new foam backing for the targets?

#661 4 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Pinball suppliers such as Marco sell them.
But it's virtually identical to 1/4" gray foam weatherstripping. So if you have a roll of that, it would do a lifetime's worth of pin targets... and a couple windows too!

Got the 1/4"...would you be able to send me a picture of how it looks when installed? Looking at mine, I think there is absolutely none, because all I have is a large gap behind all of the targets.

#663 4 years ago

Thanks to the help from goingincirclez and Schwaggs, I was able to replace the stickers with ones provided when I purchased the game, back the targets with foam, and get the targets all nice and straight again. The ball bouncing back and banging the glass has indeed stopped. Thanks!


#666 4 years ago

I have intermittent volume issues...I think it is due to intermittent issues with the volume control, which is some sort of variable resistor, I think. There may be something going on with yours as well.

#668 4 years ago

Potentiometer! That's the word I was looking for. I had a brain fart last night. I'll certainly look into what you've got.

#671 4 years ago

Anyone know for certain what tension the plunger spring on a Firepower has? There are a whole bunch of different types on Marco parts, and I am unsure which one is correct.

#675 4 years ago
Quoted from Adrift:

10-128 is the spring for the kicker and 10-135 is the spring for the flipper...unless you meant a different plunger.

Sorry, I meant the non-barrel spring for the ball shooter that slides over the nylon piece. I'm still learning all the proper terminology for these things.

#678 4 years ago

Much appreciated. Are you getting those part numbers from original Williams documentation?

#686 4 years ago

What was it you did to this machine? Also, how do you measure this pitch?

#689 4 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

A shorter answer would be, what *haven't* I done to the machine

Man, I read through that...that was insane! A question for you is: do the insert decals rest directly over the inserts themselves, or do they lay over the insert and part of the play field? I have been contemplating getting away with just repairing the inserts, putting down the deal on them (while off the play field), and sealing the decal in with clear. Afterwards, I will glue it flush with the table surface. This comes from A: not wanting to remove everything off the play field, and B: not wanting to ruin it/use up a lot of time and money to my wife's consternation!

#697 4 years ago

That's pretty cool! I like it.

#701 4 years ago

Another potential issue: while I was playing tonight, I had a second occurrence of something odd. When I locked one ball, the machine then proceeded to release both remaining balls, leading to an inadvertent multi ball. Perhaps something is loose within the mechanism, or is this something erroneously occurring with the game processing? Anyone have a similar issue? 123

#702 4 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

i have one for you

Got more than one??

#703 4 years ago

So I've been having this "left flipper sticking for a second if I hold the button down" issue. I took to looking under the field and noticed that both flippers have different springs and other parts. Take a look:



I wonder: was the right one rebuilt? I don't know my a** from my elbow with flippers yet, so does anyone know what the difference between these are...and why I may be having my issue?


#705 4 years ago

Would something of this sort (plus a spring) fit the bill?


#708 4 years ago

Ooh...Australia....I didn't notice! Thank you, though!

Catboxer: score!! Thank you, they will let me order only the left side, that's perfect!

#712 4 years ago

Thanks for the input, guys! My coils are in great shape, and I have no issue whatsoever firing the ball all over the entire table. I went with the rebuild kid for originality sake, but would certainly consider replacing the entire thing if it was needed.

2 weeks later
#726 4 years ago
Quoted from Adrift:

Found this while browsing...its a mock up of cabinet art for a virtual Firepower.
How great would this look on an actual game?

That's pretty sweet! I like it! I never realized just how crude the painting was on the cabinets until I got my own.

#731 4 years ago

Very nice caps on those bumpers! Clean and white. Here's a general question for you play field restorers: How did you take the metal edge trim off that the ball rolls against on the side walls? I see they are held on by small nails, did you pry them off?

#735 4 years ago

I've got 3 originals with my replacement field, though they are roughed up a bit. However, they are not cracked and are serviceable.

3 weeks later
#763 3 years ago

Fellas, I have been having an issue with my "E" roll-over switch. It doesn't seem to work consistently at all anymore, and, in fact, doesn't work the majority of the time. I have checked the switch itself, which I have cleaned and made sure it has only a slight gap. I tested the diode, which appears to be good, transmitting only as much current in one direction as any of the others. The solder joints do not appear to be cold or jostled, although of course that's still a possibility as I only took a gross look at them.

Any suggestions as to what else to look at?

#767 3 years ago

Schwaggs, I narrowed it down to spacing as well as some stubborn carbon deposits on the contact that didn't come off with regular index-card cleaning. To get that off, I used a 3200 grit sheet to coax it off. I didn't think that this would have anywhere near the effect of a file or someone using 240 grit. Seems to work much better and consistently now.

1 week later
#773 3 years ago

What have you guys had success with to remove surface rust & polish the metal parts of the game? Legs, coin door, ball return mechanism, etc? Any specific products that have really worked well for you?

#776 3 years ago

That looks like some pretty good stuff...is it reusable? As in, after you do a few parts, can you pour it back into it's container and use it again?

What is most of the metal on the machine? Looks like steel, and some is chromed as I can tell. Can't be stainless since it rusts.

#781 3 years ago

I'm in the process of disassembling a play field...might have a good one.

1 month later
#798 3 years ago

To let everyone know, it appears that there are some new-manufacture pop bumper caps on eBay. They don't appear to be the crappy, rounded-edge ones that have been floating around. Can someone take a look at these and see if they look good?

ebay.com link » Firepower Pinball Machine Pop Bumper Cap Set

#800 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Ordered some and got a tracking number. Will have them in another day or so.

Nice! Let me know, I may pick them up as well.

#805 3 years ago

Let's see it!

#819 3 years ago

Any word on getting those pop bumper caps?

Quoted from Travish:

Ordered some and got a tracking number. Will have them in another day or so.

1 week later
#829 3 years ago

Any and all restorations are unique processes...you might happen upon something no one else has. Pictures are also awesome to look at!

#858 3 years ago

That was my best day too!

#864 3 years ago

I've got regular, non-upgraded coils, but I replaced bats, bushings, and the stop on one. I can make all three of them no issue, provided they are well aimed, the original style could do provide enough power if they are in good shape.

1 week later
#867 3 years ago

That's pretty sweet! I think I'll eventually do that!

#870 3 years ago

Out of curiosity, anyone know if white or yellow flipper bats are original? Are both at different times during the production run?

#876 3 years ago

What product did you use for the polishing on that? I'd love to rebuild my coin door at some point.

1 week later
#917 3 years ago

I'm curious about the protector: who makes it? What is it made out of? How is it mounted to the play field?

#922 3 years ago

The original is legit, I've been on their site and it works for me.

#951 3 years ago

Fellas, I will likely soon be stripping my spare play field of parts to redo it. I'll get some shots, there are some good plastics pieces, as well as all the other parts. I'd certainly be interested in trading some of them for other parts...hopefully we can all get a part of two that we each need to make better machines for all.

#953 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Yup, you can. Lucky for me my game already had a socket soldered in so it was plug and play. Barakandl sells what you need, check his site here - http://nvram.weebly.com/. Works great!

That's awesome...no more worrying about losing your score when the batteries go!

#954 3 years ago

Going along the lines of this "free play" thing...I have looked all over the manual and have never found a free play option...how is that set?? I'd rather not have to keep opening the coin door all day...

#962 3 years ago

Is that the mod to get rid of the zero ohm resistors? Would it matter in that case?

#976 3 years ago

Mine is similar to that.

1 week later
#994 3 years ago


I found this guide online as to what compounds to use for buffing/polishing metal. Looks to be helpful. Anyone have experience with types of tools used other than drills or grinders? Does anyone know for sure what type of metal the legs are made of, or the other parts on the cabinet/playfield?


#996 3 years ago

The parts definitely do spot rust, so your analysis is likely spot on. Thank you!

1 month later
#1027 3 years ago

That happened to me once when I soldered one wire to the incorrect side of the diode. I'd check to make sure that they are resoldered to the correct side.

2 weeks later
#1052 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

It only took a week for that 15 minute job but finally got my neck back on today. Cabinet, neck and back box all done. Only thing left is playfield.

This really is impressive....how did you go about repainting everything? Is that caution sticker original as well? Mine only has a rusted and silver sprayed-over bar, so I have no idea! No worries about lead paint?

#1054 3 years ago

Three balls required to operate the machine.

#1058 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Krylon makes a satin black that matches the cabinet almost perfect. You have to be in the sun to tell. I sanded the bar really well with fine wet sandpaper and used a Eastwood company paint that is used on car restorations to paint the bar and a few other pieces. The sticker is a reproduction. I got it and several other stickers like the "connect ground strap" in the bottom of the back box and "inspected by" set and the little rubber cushions on the knocker assembly and side lane kicker somewhere. Can't exactly remember right now.

Thats great...I do recall Eastwood making all kinds of metal restoration paints when I was interested in restoring Camaros back when (never actually happened, unfortunately). Thankfully, most of my inspection stickers and such are still in place, except that one. That piece of metal on mine is atrocious, I will have to strip it and use some of that de-rusting solution that everyone on here talks about before restoring it. I will have to look for that sticker, as well.

3 weeks later
#1060 3 years ago

So far, since restoring my extra play field won't be doable for a while, I have taken to bulletproofing my electronics. Some things were done by the previous owner (40-pin replacement, power supply upgrades). Currently, I am replacing the capacitors on the sound board. It appears that none of them have ever been replaces, and I can't believe that they have lasted for 37 years. The 12,000 mfd one looks like it's about to blow, so I am waiting for the replacement from Great Plains to arrive. The 4 amp fuses were apparently replaced with 6 amp...so those will have to go, lest I get flames leaping from my cabinet! Here is a shot of what it looked like when I took it out:

IMG_1507 (resized).JPG

#1061 3 years ago

So, a week later, here is the board after being re-capped. I only worked on the main sound board, not the speech module, so as to only work on one thing at a time in case something went wrong:

IMG_1513 (resized).JPG

I still have to secure the 12,000 mfd one and clean everything up, but I wanted to test it to make sure it worked. It does! I also included a picture of the old capacitors. The large one was already leaking pretty badly, as evidenced by the ring of brown sludge underneath the plastic at left, and the droplet of it leaking through the surface. Good thing these came out!

IMG_1514 (resized).JPG

Upon playing the game, all the sounds and speech sound crisp and clear. I noticed one strange thing, however. When I was done playing, after a while, the game's usual background sound started to play while the machine was in attract mode. Was this a coincidence, i glitch? I do have the machine set to play sounds in attract mode, so having a sound play was not unexpected, but I had never had the background sound loop during attract mode. Is possibly something wrong? It did stop doing so and resumed normal operation when I hit start and played another round, and the game was again silent after play after that round.

#1062 3 years ago

By the way...has anyone done the NVRAM upgrade to get rid of the batteries?

#1064 3 years ago

bbrise, can you tell me (as I am still new to this) which ROM chip socket this is inserted into?

#1068 3 years ago

You know, I saw that on the site. Looks like a good mod to protect from stuck solenoids.

#1069 3 years ago

Here's the finished product, with zip tie and date code. I'm going to tackle the high voltage section next. Anyone else have pictures of electronic mods they've done?
IMG_1516 2 (resized).JPG

#1072 3 years ago

I'll have to look into it. It's cheap insurance!

#1074 3 years ago

Only one word can describe that: expensive!

#1079 3 years ago

I ordered both the NVRAM and fuse setup from him. My ROM is indeed soldered in, I can just desolder it and drop the new card in its place after soldering in anew socket.

#1086 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

You can also try to make a replacement on your own. Read this thread. I've made a few for a buddy and they turned out pretty good. I think I even have the decals for our slings and might be willing to make you one if you're in a jam...

I would love to try this as well. My question: do you have the image files of the artwork? The stuff on firepower.com isn't downloadable, and I can never seem to reach the site owners to see if they have them.

#1088 3 years ago

Ok everyone, I need some help after installing my NVRAM. I desoldered the old one and soldered the new one in. Now, when I turn on the machine, the credit display shows "04" (diagnostics) and the match display cycles from 00 to 32 quickly, in an endless loop. The first player display cycles through a few numbers as well. The other three displays are blank. Pressing the diagnostics button on the game board does blank all screens correctly, and I get the dual LED flash, and then they go blank...which to my understanding means test passed. If I press the soundboard test button, I get the usual and correct loop through the sounds played, no problem.

What am I missing here? Is there something I need to do with the NVRAM to make it work correctly? I did disconnect the battery adapter I have...does it need to be there the first time it starts up? Any help would be appreciated.

#1089 3 years ago

Alright so I re-installed the batteries and it works. Isn't the whole point of the upgrade to not need the batteries? A little guidance would be awesome.

#1092 3 years ago

Here it is, installed in the. Perfect spot, I checked the manual twice to make sure before I desoldered the old one and soldered in the new one. Everything else appears ok, I played a few games with the batteries installed and the game itself works fine.

IMG_1528 (resized).JPG

#1094 3 years ago

I'm relatively new at this: from test point 7, where do I test it? Between here and what other point?

IMG_1528 (resized).JPG

IMG_1528 (resized).JPG

#1096 3 years ago

TP7 reads a steady 4.95 V. I tried programming new settings in and then shutting the machine off, then on again. Seemed fine. I removed the battery source and immediately the the machine started to run into that same issue again. I restored the battery power and restarted and everything seemed fine. In addition, the settings that I had programmed were indeed still there. This leads me to believe that at least the memory appears to be functioning, if the settings stayed without the battery power in place.

#1098 3 years ago

So schwaggs...barakandl walked through it with me, and it was something I'd never considered but he had seen before: the upper rightmost batttery post hole connects the upper surface of that area to ground, and that pin 7 of IC5 grounds there. The original mounting hole was gone, drilled through for mounting a post to move the batteries off the board. So IC5 wasn't grounding. I popped a screw back in the hole, the connection was restored, and problem solved! Thank you for your help as well.

1 week later
#1101 3 years ago

I just finished my high-voltage section upgrade. However, now that the displays are dimmer, I have noticed an issue with the player 4 display, consisting of the 1st and sometimes 2nd digit flickering. I tried reseating the contacts per Vid in his thread, but that did not work. I swapped the connector from one display to another, and that made the same glitch appear on the other display, so that rules out an issue with 4th player the display itself. That leaves the wiring harness or the master controller itself, or so I can at least figure. I suppose I will have to pull the master and look it over. Anyone have a similar issue before, and what was the cause?

#1102 3 years ago

Well, I fixed it...loose wires!

#1106 3 years ago

SWEET...where'd you score that? How much?

#1110 3 years ago

At least you don't need to worry now. By the way, you don't happen to have one of those flat scanners, do you?

#1115 3 years ago

Let me know what/where you need, and I'll be happy to help out.

#1120 3 years ago
Quoted from rooftop:

need some photos of under the play field of the 4 pop bumper areas

I'm on call at the hospital tomorrow...if you can wait till Sunday, I'll take pictures of that area, and anything else you want.

#1121 3 years ago

By the way, in case anyone is interested, my rejuvenation/restoration is taking place in this thread:


This way I don't get in the way of the excitement in this one!

#1122 3 years ago

Anyone want a decrepit backglass for cheap?

ebay.com link » Williams Firepower Pinball Backglass

#1127 3 years ago

If you need any more in-depth info on that, I have the original wiring/board layout schematic book with values and such. If you ever need a scan of a certain part, I can certainly supply that, too.

#1130 3 years ago

To make it simpler, here is the part you want:
Screen Shot 2017-02-04 at 6.27.26 PM (resized).png
it looks like they should indeed all have resistors.

#1140 3 years ago

Ok so here is what I found: some have resistors, some don't. At least on mine, sometimes it's not even consistent (as far as I can tell, don't check against schematics:

Here is a photo of the switch of one of my pop bumpers:IMG_3479 (resized).JPG

You can see not only a diode and resistor, but small capacitor as well (split between both switches). Here is another, same deal: IMG_3480 (resized).JPG

The switch for the left ball kicker has only a diode: IMG_3482 (resized).JPG

The switch for the ball feeder has just a diode: IMG_3488 (resized).JPG

The targets 1-6 clearly seen here have only a diode: IMG_3311 (resized).JPG

I hope that this helps. IF you need more specific ones, let me know.

#1144 3 years ago

appreciated, Schwaggs! I didn't know they were there, but while taking the photos I was thinking "hmm...these should probably be changed, too..."

#1149 3 years ago

Shouldn't be an impossible task. Perhaps I could make some, with time...

1 week later
#1152 3 years ago

How many 50v, 22 mfd caps are there to replace? I can pick them up tomorrow.

#1156 3 years ago

Glad to see! Would love to see more detailed/interior shots!

#1167 3 years ago

How's that post help cheating?

Glad to see two new people in one day!

#1169 3 years ago

The game sometimes being a PITA is half the fun!

#1184 3 years ago

Where are you guys getting these LEDs?

#1189 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

When I first got the game that shot was close to impossible no matter how well I hit it. Perhaps I just needed a simple rebuild but I figured I might as well go all in.

It might have been your mechs. I have originals, and no issue making the shot if done properly.To each his own!

#1194 3 years ago

You could try backing them with foam insulation, as someone once suggested I did. My issue was different, but I would bet that this would dampen the reverberations nicely.

#1206 3 years ago

Does anyone know where to get the little plastic covering pieces that run between the two posts that are between the "F" - "I" and "R" - "E" lanes? I have two yellow ones, and I would like to obtain two semi-clear red ones like the originals. Anyone have a source for those?

#1213 3 years ago

$$$ stops me. Can't justify $250 on that now.

#1215 3 years ago

Thats the case with mine. I would like to get mine all original transparent red.

#1219 3 years ago

Retrofitting such foam rubber would seem to be a worthwhile mod, then.

1 week later
#1240 3 years ago

The very best of luck with that play field...

#1241 3 years ago

On my replacement play field, I have just one faded POWER target insert (why one of three, I don't know). Anyone have any experience with Marco's offerings, and which one is a close match?


#1245 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

As much as you may not want to do it, I would probably replace all three. It's going to be hard to match one brand new one with two that are 35+ years old. You're doing lots of work anyway might as well just do all of them!

Fair enough...with that being the case, any of them specifically that you think would be a good match?

1 week later
#1268 3 years ago

Anyone know where to find the original, OEM-style pop bumper mylar? I'd like to use this on the play field when it is finished.

#1271 3 years ago

I did see that at Marco, but that seemed like it was a straight circle whereas the original stuff looked like it had the holes cut for the nails, etc...or do you have to do that yourself?

#1274 3 years ago

Ill watch for those bolts!

Here is a picture of the mylar that I'm talking about: has anyone cut those notches out that are in it?


#1276 3 years ago

Kind of what I figured! hahaha nice with the toss...just what kind depends. So basically no one has that, just the generic stuff. Fair enough.

#1289 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

You be the judge...
» YouTube video

Nice video! Looks like a real blast...nice to see how it might have been all those years ago!

#1297 3 years ago

Fellas, can anyone tell me where in the world to get the proper 3M adhesion promoter for installing the inserts? Having a heck of a time finding the stuff.

#1307 3 years ago

I had a similar issue where an IC that grounded through the rightmore battery holder to the back of the board (original firepower) was no longer grounding, putting the machine into eternal test mode and scrolling through the test numbers.

#1312 3 years ago

Just as a corollary, I got mine for about $225, one to restore, that is.

#1324 3 years ago

That is some absolutely insane artwork...wonderful job.

3 weeks later
#1355 3 years ago

I can't believe the ambition of those here!

1 month later
#1398 2 years ago

Sell those blue things!

1 week later
#1402 2 years ago

Hey, is that you in the picture? I was the guy who was playing the machine to the right of it when you and two other guys opened it for what I think was a fuse change on Friday! Talk about a small world!

#1407 2 years ago

I did wind up playing it after you guys had repaired it. It did play real nicely, I'd say that's a good find there. Do you mind my asking how much you got it for? Someone had an original FP there with bad lighting, scuffed up PF, and flippers that would lock up partway through a game...all for the tune of $1300! I'm pretty sure no one bought that, at least I'd hope not. Do you have any big plans for it?

#1409 2 years ago

I'd love to see it set up at your place!

#1410 2 years ago

Quick question for anyone: anyone have a good source of new rollover switches, such as those under the FIRE roll overs?

#1415 2 years ago

Yes thank you, that is what I am looking for.

McSquibb: congratulations on the marriage! FPII makes a good gift!

#1416 2 years ago

By the way: any of you guys have experience with the game High Speed? I have a chance to look at one st a house estate sale andcwanted to know if the game itself is any good.

#1423 2 years ago

Many thanks for all of the advice. What sort of issues would one see if that is damaged, short of the game simply not functioning?

#1425 2 years ago

Ok so similar issues that a FP might have...thanks!

#1428 2 years ago

Looks nice! Let's get some play field close ups to see what you are taking about.

#1430 2 years ago

First, you are very lucky to have scored that back glass...do all you can to preserve that!

As for the Mylar, it depends on what you want to do with the game. I suspect the insert problem is due to the inserts cupping and becoming proud of the field, resulting in the effect you are seeing. If you wanted to keep the Mylar, you could glue the inserts with epoxy and clamp ala Vid, and use heat to get the resulting Mylar ripples to shrink back. Most of the paint areas, like the black, I think could easily be wiped in with createx and little fuss. As for the divots in the rollover lanes, I'm actually repairing those now on the play field I'm restoring with epoxy putty, then sanding and filing. I'll have photos up in my restore thread in a day or two.

Removing the Mylar entirely as always could be dicy if it appears the paint may come up with it. On the flip side, I took my pop bumper and slingshot Mylar off with heat with zero issue. As you said...it's up to you.

#1433 2 years ago

In fact, that was the very one indeed. I was there today.

#1435 2 years ago

It is an odd thing. My machine has the flaw, but the caps on my replacement play field did not have the flaw, and the play field itself is stamped "Sept 1979", early in the run I would assume. Where does one find the serial number of their particular machine?

#1440 2 years ago

Mine's 429136, and has the marred caps.

#1445 2 years ago

Pictures! Sounds like quite a project.

#1455 2 years ago

As they instructed me: in the front, under the coin door, stamped into the wood.

#1460 2 years ago

I've wanted good scans too....anyone?

#1464 2 years ago

Thank you in advance!!

#1469 2 years ago

The ghetto way would be incredibly easy: desolder the two leads from the speaker, and attach them to the two leads of a mono headphone jack. Record your sounds, then reverse the process!

#1472 2 years ago

Believe it or not, it really is simple and should not hurt anything. Heck, I'll do it and try for you. I've done it lots of times with other audio signals. However, if a real electronics expert wants to chime in, that will do, too!

#1475 2 years ago

Yeah, the "proper" way is how to take care of it with a resistor, or, better, a variable resistor like this thing can do.

#1480 2 years ago

Thank you! Extremely helpful!

1 week later
#1491 2 years ago

That's pretty neat that you can do that. I wonder how the game knows to call for those sounds when certain conditions have been met if it was not originally equipped with voice.

#1493 2 years ago

Simplicity at it's best. Why waste money re-editing the code?

#1497 2 years ago

I can understand the anxiety...I haven't even finished restoring my spare play field, and I'm already nervous about repopulating it!

2 weeks later
#1520 2 years ago

To me, mine looks more like the bright red when a flash photo is taken of it (it looks totally distorted when lit up, due to some "spray color on the back" some doofus did back when). I'd totally be down for one because of how mine looks. However, I agree with others there that the Mayfair version is not the best, especially due to the yellow letter trace instead of original red. My vote is for the bright red; i'd buy one. Here is how mine looks:

IMG_3846 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#1574 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

After some pestering cliffy now has firepower set. Not on the site yet, just got them in. Yea!!

What are those?

#1578 2 years ago

Hey, that's pretty cool! I especially like their "enhanced" lane guides...I may pick those up when I'm done with my restoration.

1 week later
#1606 2 years ago

I'd be in for a set of those repros. They look nice, and mine aren't the greatest there ever were.

As far as the play field, the one I am restoring is pretty darn early, the date on it is September, 1979. Can't really give you a compare on a NOS one.

#1607 2 years ago
Quoted from Masspinballfan:

Thank you man. I guess I'll go with the Classic Arcade ones.

I purchased the set of classic arcades. Not 100% exactly perfect, the lines don't end exactly where the originals do, but the difference is imperceptible unless you are REALLY looking. I'll include a picture. If you look at a photo of the originals, the innermost red line ends up top past the Williams W...on the repros, the lines end slightly lower than the W. It's much better than dingy ones. They are on eBay right now:

Screen Shot 2017-09-17 at 9.22.15 PM (resized).png

ebay.com link » Firepower Pinball Machine Pop Bumper Cap Set

2 weeks later
#1622 2 years ago

Unless someone gets back to you before me, I'll look at mine for you tonight.

#1625 2 years ago

Can you get us a picture of it? I’ll check my schematics tonight as well, if I get a chance tonight. Sorry for the delays: with kids, my mothers birthday, etc...spare time is hard to come by!

#1629 2 years ago
Quoted from KJL:

I've seen both but assumed the "correct" color would match the bright red on the playfield and that the dark red was a by product of the long production run. That is what I would vote for even though mine had the dark.

I agree, I would rather the bright colors. Just thinking back, it was the late 70's, early 80's...everything was loud colors...who would this be any different?

#1630 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

"one of these things is not like the others...."

Yes, the master display board close up and the wiring harness attach points on the master/first player display would be great. I'll take some shots of my own to make sure that they match. I'll also look at the schematics.

#1631 2 years ago

Here are mine:

IMG_2027 (resized).JPGIMG_2029 (resized).JPG

#1634 2 years ago

It really is incredible what a cluster some of that was. They must have been pushing like mad to get the thing out the door.

#1638 2 years ago

Just smoke? Or now it doesn’t work?

#1642 2 years ago

It is possible that two or more pins for the unit were very close, but not touching. The move could have made them touch, causing a short. That would be my theory.

1 week later
#1648 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Finally got my sound working. Pulled out a couple of sound/speech boards from my pile and none worked. I just went ahead and ordered all new sound/speech boards and put them in. Still no sound. Started checking continuity on wires and somebody moved one of the speaker wires in the connector leading to the head. Guess I should have checked that first.

At least now you have a good, new sound board!

1 week later
#1657 2 years ago

I’ll look

#1660 2 years ago

My extra has much the same issue...sorry about that.

#1667 2 years ago

Hi guys, does anyone know about this little rubber ring that fits over the credit light? Mine has deteriorated beyond salvaging, and I wasn’t even sure what the heck it really is for. Anyone else know?

#1674 2 years ago

Anyone have a source and part number for the slingshot parts, minus the solenoid itself?

#1680 2 years ago

I have a conundrum, fellas. I am moving alll the parts from my
Old playfield to the new. The right post that bridges the gap between the wood and the metal in the shooter lane is in two different spots in the two play fields. The original has it in the rightmost hole, and my resto. Had the post in the middle hole. What does everyone else have??

6818CA45-8BCC-4094-AB9A-36266B56065F (resized).jpeg

61E37D1A-760B-4E23-9922-4998AC4C0A4A (resized).jpeg

#1681 2 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Someone sell me their top left plastic since they are buying a CPR set

I have a good upper left...if you have a good lower left!

#1683 2 years ago

I had an idea; for all of us with used/spare plastics, we should start another thread that posts: 1. what plastics that we have that are good and spare, and 2. what ones that we need that others might have. This way, we can set up a swap of sorts. What do you guys think?

1 week later
#1688 2 years ago

Has anyone repainted/repaired their spinner? Mine could use some touch ups.

#1689 2 years ago

I just ordered my CPR plastic set. I have quite a few plastics that are still in good shape; once I have my new ones, I'll post pics and anyone can PM me about the others I have.

#1703 2 years ago

Anyone have the part # for the coil sleeves inside the pop bumper coils?

#1705 2 years ago

Thanks a bunch...where can one get a hold of all these exploded views of the subassemblies?

#1709 2 years ago

I've got a good "Scores 1000" I can get you, possibly the other as well.

#1710 2 years ago

Guys, what type of diodes are those connected to the pop bumper circuits? One of mine is busted. Can’t find their rating in the schematics.

#1713 2 years ago

Thanks...yes, diodes. The play field I am swapping to has the glass variety, and one of them broke in half. I think I'll replace them all with the solid kinds.

By the way, where did you find that? In the schematic book, I see them all labeled individually, but I cannot find a table that lists what they are anywhere.

#1715 2 years ago

Thank you for responding...I wasn't clear at all...I am talking about the diodes that are used for the LIGHTING, not on top of the coils. My mistake. Can you then clear up for me which those are?

#1717 2 years ago

Thank you! Re-using all my wiring here, but, yes, rebuilding the pops. This will help a lot.

#1720 2 years ago

Has anyone restored their apron? Mine is a tad bit rusty...and has the annoying habit of scratching the play field when put on and taken off.

#1723 2 years ago

I’m saving them all and making it into a zip file for whoever wants them.

#1732 2 years ago

Fellas, I have 98% LEDs on my FP, with just a few that were left incandescent by the previous owner. What I want to know is, how do I tell what the ones that are there are to get more just like them? For instance, targets 1-5 are all LED, and 6 is incandescent. I'd like to just get another LED...but I'm not sure how to decipher what kind I need.

#1735 2 years ago

I’ll get the pics soon!

#1737 2 years ago

Wow, that's huge, Rick...thank you for doing this! Do you happen to have areal-life photo of one of yours? I'm sure it looks amazing.

#1742 2 years ago

Anyone have a source for the rubber grommet at the back of the left outline kicker? Mine, like most originals i'm sure, is a disintegrating piece of crap.

#1745 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Rubber grommet?

The rubber cushion located on the back of the coil stop:

Screen Shot 2017-12-07 at 5.20.46 AM (resized).png

#1748 2 years ago

Wow, thanks guys. I must say, you all are an incredible resource.

#1750 2 years ago

By the way, I’m going to print spinner graphics on a vinyl sheet...the sheet is wat bigger than I’d need. I’ll have extra...anyone like one?

#1751 2 years ago

For those of you who got the CPR plastics: how does one detach and reattach the metal posts for the middle-right ball lock plastic? I noticed that the piece doesn't include them in it.

#1753 2 years ago

Likely won't damage the new plastics, I hope? Just enough to slide the metal in?

#1756 2 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Has anyone attempted mylar removal on a firepower 2? Mine has full lower play field mylar, and its bubbling on the bonus inserts leading to erratic ball behaviour that affects gameplay. I'd like to remove the mylar and clearcoat it, but I've heard paint likes to come up a lot on older Williams games. I've seen the pictures of firepower 1 mylar removal posted here. Wondering if that 3 years made any difference. I had no issues doing a 1990 rollergames.

I'd ask Vid that in his play field restoration thread. Throw in some pics, and I'm sure he will have an answer.

#1762 2 years ago

Once you guys confirm that the thing looks good, I'll probably order one as well.

#1764 2 years ago

Well, after 2/3rds of a year, the spare play field restoration is complete! Popped her in tonight, and it works! Switch adjustment aside...it looks like she is good to go!

IMG_2280 (resized).JPG

#1765 2 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Hey everyone, I have an issue with my game. Whenever I turn it on it looks like everything is good, but for only a split second. Then it will go into a test mode and will auto cycle through all the different tests very rapidly. The game seems to just about boot up and play, but just goes into the test mode and I can't get out of it. It just continually cycles in test over and over.
Any thoughts?

That happened to me when the pass-through circuit behind one of the battery holder screw holders was not connected. Check those and see.

#1767 2 years ago

I believe it is the right-upper screw. I recall that a circuit runs from the front of the board to the rear through that hole, using the screw, of all things, to pass the electricity. Sometimes the design of these things baffles me.

#1769 2 years ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Just ordered mine. Original is going in a frame on the wall.

Let me know how it is when it shows up. I'm interested in getting one, as well.

#1773 2 years ago

My CPR plastics look great! The only problem is I just realized I forgot to take the extra white backing off of the rear of them! When you install yours, don't forget that there is coating on both sides.

#1775 2 years ago

That’s a good question. Unless you are manhandling it...id figure it would be ok. If you have LEDs, you aren’t going to bake it to death.

#1777 2 years ago

You can't use the stiff from the existing back glass?