(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,115 posts
  • 275 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 117 Pinsiders

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#48 5 years ago

This is a great website! I'm a newbie here..

1. How do I join the Firepower club?
2. Check out my screw-up.

After watching several YouTube videos of leveling inserts, I gave it a try... But I made it worse. I used a heat gun to loosen the glue, but I burned the PF paint. All my target inserts are raised. What's the best way to level inserts with all the wiring attached?firepower-inser-screwupt.jpg

#51 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

To loosen insert glue, use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun and use it on the bottom of the playfield instead. I removed all the arrow inserts on my FP (with all wiring attached) in this manner with no problems at all: stand the playfield up vertically, lean the top against the back box but make sure it's at enough of an angle that it's not going to fall back down. Working on one insert at a time, keep your fingers of one hand on the topside of the insert while blowdrying the bottom side. As your fingers feel the insert get warm, stop the blowdrying and GENTLY but firmly press against the bottom of the insert with dull object, I used a 1/4" socket driver (without a socket on the end of course). Work from one end to the other but DON'T force it, if it's not loosening then you need to warm it again with the hair dryer. Eventually when pressing against it, you'll feel the glue give way and the insert can be worked out easily.

Thanks! I'm a bit concerned of heating the back side, is a blow dryer hot enough to melt any soldering? I guess I need to remove the inserts completely, I was thinking of just pushing down a bit.

#59 5 years ago

Yep, I've got one. This is the same paneling used for covering walls. In the late 70's that wood look was popular. My dad had wood siding on his Ford LTD station wagon.

firepower brick bottom.JPG

#89 5 years ago

My favorite shot. It's tough!
Targets 2 -6 are lit and target 1 remains. From the right flipper aim for the spinner, but barley nick target 1 as the ball goes through the spinner and locks on top. I've only done a few times, very satisfying... You can complete the same shot on the opposite side for target 6 and the right lock.

fav-shot.jpg

#93 5 years ago

I guess I'm a bit lucky, my kickback usually hits the 4-6 targets.

However, most of the time I'm very unlucky or just plain stupid. lol
Check this out. I waited in line to get Steve Ritchie's autograph on my Firepower backglass. I thought I was being clever and used a soft blanket to cover the backglass. When I get home, Steve's signature is a blur and most of the blue paint rubbed off. Pissed me off.. Damn blanket! Needless to say, I'm looking for a new backglass.backglass-missing-paint.JPG

#101 5 years ago

Does anyone know the insert size of the orange arrows? Also, the the insert sizes for the bonus lights... 1-9, 10, and 20. I'm going to attempt to replace my raised and cupped inserts. I'm curious if anything from here will work:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=FB4B0852990D3E9D8735FD1DCDAB4499.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=insert

#103 5 years ago

Thanks. Where can I find the parts manual please?

#109 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

To loosen insert glue, use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun and use it on the bottom of the playfield instead. I removed all the arrow inserts on my FP (with all wiring attached) in this manner with no problems at all: stand the playfield up vertically, lean the top against the back box but make sure it's at enough of an angle that it's not going to fall back down. Working on one insert at a time, keep your fingers of one hand on the topside of the insert while blowdrying the bottom side. As your fingers feel the insert get warm, stop the blowdrying and GENTLY but firmly press against the bottom of the insert with dull object, I used a 1/4" socket driver (without a socket on the end of course). Work from one end to the other but DON'T force it, if it's not loosening then you need to warm it again with the hair dryer. Eventually when pressing against it, you'll feel the glue give way and the insert can be worked out easily.

Great advise! Worked perfect. I was hoping to replace the old inserts with new ones, but these orange inserts are hard to find. I've watched several videos about sanding down cupped inserts. Will sanding fix the insert or make it too thin?

Also.. I know the paint of a 34 year old Firepower has faded. However, does anyone know of a good color to match the PF red around the arrows?
firepower-insert.jpg
cupped-insert.jpg

1 week later
#119 5 years ago

Experiment - Leveling the arrow inserts. Instead of applying heat directly to the insert, I made a hot plate and heated only the top of the insert. To my surprise, this worked great.

Using hard hood, I cut and sanded a block of wood to match the inside of the 1.5 inch arrow insert. The wood fit snugly into the insert.

insert-wood-wedge.jpg

I found an old metal shelf support and used it as a hot plate. Using a clamp, I placed the top of the insert onto the metal plate. Apply a little pressure, just enough to hold together.

insert-clamp.jpg

Apply heat onto the back of the hot plate. I used a heat gun on low and heated the metal plate for about a minute or so. I never pointed the heat gun directly at the insert, only heated the back side of the plate. Now squeeze that clamp down hard while the metal plate is hot.

insert-heat.jpg

I let the insert cool down for about 10 minutes before removing the clamp. I'm very happy with the results. The arrow kept it's shape and the top is fairly level, no more cupped effect. Also, the sticker never came off. Now I'm able to keep my original arrows and stickers! Before and after pics.

before-after-insert.jpg

2 weeks later
#145 5 years ago
Quoted from VDrums2112:

Anybody know where I can tap an always on 12 volts from in my Firepower? Have a RGB LED light strip mod I want to try.
Basically I'm wanting the underside of the cabinet to flash red with the red "Fire" flasher lamp and blue with the blue "Power" flasher lamp. I think I have that one figured out since the flashers are 12 volts, correct?... Then I'm wanting the cabinet to change from blue to red when the pop bumpers switch their lights (I have blue and red caps since the pop body mounting holes weren't perfect on the new PF). Where could I get the 12 volts to power the 2nd LED strip for the pop bumpers.
Thanks,
-Steve Ridge

I am also interested in this. Steve, once done... it would be great if you can share some video of the under cabinet lighting.

1 week later
#149 5 years ago

I just noticed... Firepower is now listed at 94. YEA!! It's finally in the top 100

3 weeks later
#152 5 years ago

Silly question. Placement of the three AA batteries... Should the positive side face down on all the batteries? I replaced the batteries and now I get a 1497 2 error code.

#154 5 years ago

Thanks... After a few hours of searching and discovering the Firepower manual, I got it worked out. I guess my new batteries were not so good and everything was reset.

#156 5 years ago

Well, now it's resetting after every power cycle. The batteries are in the wrong order, or I've damaged the board somehow. Lesson learned... Take a picture before screwing around...

DSC_5456.JPG

It looks clean.

DSC_5460.JPG

1 month later
#168 5 years ago

I've got so much to learn...
I get intermittent problems with the "F" in the FIRE lane and the center POWER target. They simply don't work. I cleaned both switches, but still not working.
Also, the score displays gets all screwy from time to time. After checking the board connection for the displays, the displays now look great and the FIRE and the POWER targets are also working. I never would of guessed that a bad display connection would effect the PF. Now, if only I can get my batteries to work.

display.jpg

#171 5 years ago

I believe these are the original stock stickers. Earlier in this thread, Vid posted the target and spinner pictures.
For $250, what a great find!!

DSC_5471.JPG

#177 5 years ago

Replacing the 40 pin.. Does that require soldering? I'm scared to touch any boards.

1 week later
#180 5 years ago

Well, I still have battery problems. Anyone see anything wrong here?

bottom battery holder.jpg

top-battery-holder.jpg

#184 5 years ago

To repair that one solder joint, do I need to remove the board?

3 weeks later
#207 5 years ago

On start up, it's normal to say "Firepower". It says "Firepower Mission Accomplished" when you set a high score or win a free game.

2 weeks later
#209 5 years ago

Firepower was playing just fine, but now it will not start a new game. In the last game, ball one drained, but ball two never popped out. It's acting as if not enough balls are in the machine.

#212 5 years ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Remove the 3 balls from the machine. Open the coin door and go into switch test. Activate each switch to see if it shows up on the ball/credit display. If one of the three switches is not registering, Firepower will not start a game. This happened to me and I ended up replacing one of the switches since a new diode or a good cleaning didn't help. It works great now.

I did the test. All coils fire. However for number 16 (coin lockout) I don't see or hear anything.

#213 5 years ago

Wait.. I need a switch test not a solenoid test. When I perform the switch test (Test 3) nothing happens. There is no display readings.

#216 5 years ago

OK, I manually placed my finger on each switch. See picture, the bottom switch did not display but the others did.

switch-test.jpg

#218 5 years ago

SOLVED! Thank you. This was a good learning experience for me. (switch testing) The green wire was making a bad connection. It finally came off completely when I noticed it.

green-wire.jpg

#221 5 years ago

I've still got my battery problem. I tried to reheat the solder joints, but I suck at soldering.

1. How do I test the board and find the bad connection?
2. Is there a non-soldering option of replacing the battery holder?

batt.JPG

1 month later
#223 4 years ago

I'd like to add red and blue under cabinet lighting. So when the red FIRE is lit, the red comes on below, same with the blue POWER. Any recommendations for under cabinet LEDs... ?

2 months later
#254 4 years ago
Quoted from Fresh_Wax:

Can anyone tell me if there are still pf's available for this classic pin? I've contacted CPR, and they said that i have to go to the open market to locate one.
Thanks

Last year, there was a new Firepower PF at the TPF. Perhaps again this year.

1 month later
#280 4 years ago

I've got a strange issue.
The "F" in FIRE and the middle target of POWER, sometimes both don't work at the same time. If I leave the machine turned on for a few days, somehow they start working again. Sounds like I have a board problem... Do older boards need to be warmed up?

#282 4 years ago

Thanks! My problem is not with the lighting. The "F" lane switch and the middle POWER target do not registrar when hit. It sucks, because when it's malfunctioning it's impossible to light POWER. I think it's strange that these two switches would be connected in any way.

#286 4 years ago

Thanks guys, I'll give it a go. However, I'm scared to touch the boards... total soldering noob!

8 months later
#501 3 years ago

Check this out. I used the new Matrix system by Comet Pinball. Now I've got under cabinet LEDs. I plugged them into the FIRE and POWER sockets.

1 week later
#508 3 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

That looks awesome! Can you share the details of what you used?

Super easy. I spent about $20 on the Matrix system - A few long cables, 2 bulbs, and two LED strips. Done... I'm thinking about adding green LEDs behind each lock.

http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-6-SMD-5050-6-3V-LIGHTED-PADS-p/mtx6smdpad.htm

#512 3 years ago

I think Firepower begs for LEDs. LED lights give this old pin a bright, crisp and modern look. I don't like replacing the GI lights with color, but color LED inserts look freaking great.

Firepower Pops.png

#515 3 years ago

Hey dzorbas, how did you install the green lights behind the locks?

2 weeks later
#539 3 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

No reply back yet on the actual playable condition. If I were to buy it, it would be for somewhat sentimental reasons, as it's the first pin that I really played with any consistency as an arcade kid of the 80's, so it would be a keeper.

I curious, did you buy it or not? Firepower is also in my heart, and stressing over saving a hundred dollars or so is not worth it. Lucky for us, compared to other pins Firepower is affordable.

4 months later
#680 3 years ago

Please take a close look. See any problems? Along with the credits, player 1 and 2 displays are missing the bottom left segment. Player 3 and 4 are fine.

firepower-score_(resized).JPG

#690 3 years ago

Is this a simple fix? Just replace with 10k resistor?

firepower-score2_(resized).jpg

#693 3 years ago

I've had a few questions about my under cabinet lighting. Here's a quick video on how I did it. Matrix system by Comet Pinball.

#696 3 years ago

There are a lot of options now. I'm thinking about adding green lights to locks.

4 months later
#833 3 years ago

What a great idea!
Wiring - would you somehow combine with existing spinner?

#849 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I see you have a F-14 & a Firepower. We're on a long road trip as I type this to pick up those actual games. What are the odds?

Good luck with pick up. I think they are a good combo, different personalities. I want to find a BK2, then I'll be complete.

3 weeks later
#929 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I don't have the Firepower manual yet. Can someone tell me how to get a credit on the game? I have 3 balls in the trough and I think it's ready to go. I haven't heard any sounds yet.

Goto menu and scroll to 18. Use the credit button and set value to 0. That free play.

#938 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Do I put the upper left display to 18? With the right red button & leave it & use the credit button to put 00 on the lower left display?

The ball display (right) should be on 18. Then player 1, that needs to be set to 00. Make sure that the white coin door switch is working (sticking out) Mine tends to get stuck..

#940 3 years ago

Looks like a nice night...

Because the batteries in my Firepower do not work, I need to do this for every power up.

1. Power Up
2. Open coin door.
3. Set to free play
4. Quickly turn off and on pin

firepower free play (resized).jpg

#952 3 years ago

Scampcamp, I feel your pain. I'm going to PM you a .pdf file of the firepower manual. It helped me.
Again, check and see if the coin door switch is sticky. For me, if I set Firepower on free play and that switch is stuck, it wont work.

coin door switch (resized).JPG

1 month later
#1014 2 years ago

Has anyone connected a subwoffer? After reading a couple of threads, I gave it a try. I connected a powered subwoffer (RCA) to the cabinet speaker leads. It sounded really great, but odd things started to happen.

1. If a light switch or a overhead fan was turned on, Firepower would make an effect noise. (in attract mode)
2. Sometimes all sound would turn off.

I disconnected everything and all is working fine. So obviously, connecting a subwoffer directly to the speaker is bad for Firepower. My goal is to have Firepower and my F-14 connected to the same subwoffer. Any advise?

#1017 2 years ago

The line level converter looks perfect, thank you. Any idea on why a house light switch would cause FP to make effect noise?

3 months later
#1153 2 years ago

I just read this about backglass printing. Does anyone have a Firepower high resolution picture to share? Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-printed-backglass-project-results

1 week later
#1225 2 years ago

If you can't find or afford an original back glass, does anyone sell translites for early SS pins?

5 months later
#1525 2 years ago

I vote dark red. With LEDs installed, the bright red may be washed out with glare on the PF glass. IMO, the dark has a better color match.

5 months later
#1958 1 year ago

I need help with my backglass key please. The key will only turn about 3/4, and I can't remove backglass. I believe the center bracket is preventing the backglass from lifting up.

backglass holder (resized).jpg

key (resized).jpg

11 months later
#2680 9 months ago

Help please..
Both of these switches do not register in a switch test. I see they share a yellow wire. If I replace both switches, what type of switch do I need? Game will not start. Thanks

trough-switch (resized).jpg
#2684 9 months ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Almost certainly not the physical switch. Try jumping the connection with alligator clips. If still no switch, it’s wiring, connectors, or a board/diode issue.

Man, you nailed it. I traced it back to the board and wiggle this around a bit, and the game starts. This is the same bad connection that causes the "F" in Fire not to work. Thank you!

board--problem (resized).jpg
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