San Diego, CA
Hi all, am new to the club with a FP2. Can someone tell me if it’s possible to set this up for free play?
(Topic ID: 70775)
Linked Games
Firepower
Williams, 1980-
Firepower II
Williams, 1983
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Quoted from swillie:Absolutely...will go check the manual...okay setting 18 (maximum credits) set it to 0 (zero) for free play.
Go to www.ipdb.com and look up Firepower II and download the manual. The procedure is on page 12.
Thanks swillie
Quoted from Schwaggs:You can use the regular dual row .1" header pins, no reason you need the plastic housing.
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/dhs-40/2-x-40-pins-snappable-headers/1.html
Thanks, ordered
Quoted from Walamab:I've got vector artwork I made for this very visual pinball machine . You could make your own as a last resort. looks like someone modded it to make the lighting better .
The photo I used was a stock one, not my machine, I would love your files if your willing to share! Thanks!
Having a strange issue with my FP2, every once in a while the back half of my GI dims a lot and the eventually come back. It’s strange that it is only the back half of the Playfield, could this be a power board issue? I have ordered a cap kit to redo it.
Quoted from Walamab:31-521-18
That is it, I found the same number on another photo
Quoted from swillie:If you mean the one above the center standup targets...mine says 31-521-11
No, I’m missing the large one in the center of the Playfield
2 weeks later
Quoted from Walamab:Since I don't actually own the game (FP2), it never occurred to me to make them available for manufacture. My main concern with doing so is that they are not "exact" reproductions of the graphics. (i.e. raster effects instead of halftone transitions, rough outlines of ships rather than precise tracing, color selections aren't exact, etc.). Are they good enough? maybe but also maybe not knowing how some are about their restorations. Generally speaking if someone wants copies I'm happy to share but with the caveats above. Remember they were made for visual pinball not a real machine .
Now, if someone had high resolution scans of their plastics to send me. I would certainly be willing to work on and contribute the artwork for having them produced. Even if they are broken or yellowed I can correct flaws. Just sayin'
I would be happy with anything seeing how I currently have nothing...
Quoted from ss-pinball:I'd scan my plastics...there are enough FP2 copies out there with no plastics, broken or incomplete ones.
Someone needs to do a hard top.
Another funny thing...FP2 is always at a pinball show and always not working! (One actually was smoking at a big show last year).
I've never seen a working one, except mine.
Could maybe provide your scans to CPR for them to produce?
2 months later
Quoted from Outsidedge:Hi Firepower members! I wanted to let you know we are getting back up to speed with Hardtop production slowly. We have 2 in stock ready to ship if anyone has an interest. Since we will not be going live on our site for a bit yet... just PM me with your email address, ship to address and name. Cost is still 298.00
Thanks!
Is there any chance you would consider doing a FP2? I know there are a few of us that would be an auto buy.
8 months later
Having a real tough time with a project FP that I recently picked up. I knew it needed board work when I bought it, but I can figure out why I’m not getting any audio. I have a rotten dog all in one in the game while I work on the cpu and driver board. The game will fully play, but I only get a slight hum out of the speaker. I recapped the sound board, but no luck. I’m getting correct voltage at the test points, and I reseated all the rom chips. The pot in the cab and on the voice board will raise and lower the background hum, but I can’t get anything else. Any help or theories would be greatly appreciated!
CE66334C-0EB0-4E88-BBB2-FACF56FB4118 (resized).jpegQuoted from Schwaggs:You can also press the diagnostics button on the sound card and it will play some test sounds. That way, you are not relying on a signal from the driver board.
Press the diagnostic button and while that is running, adjust the balance pot on the voice board. You can also adjust the main volume in the cab.
The sound board is no different than the CPU board in that it can suffer from the typical cold solder joints, bad capacitors and bad IC sockets. Since you replaced the caps already, reflow the solder on the header pins.
Then its a matter of using a logic probe to see if the CPU is running. If its not, I would replace the ROM socket, try again. Then the CPU socket.
Thanks for the input, Pressing the diagnostic button on the Sound board does nothing, does the cable from cpu need to be unplugged when pressing it?
Has anyone used the all in one speech and sound board from Kohout? Honestly for the price and convenience I think it may be more worth my time to buy the replacement board then having to spend hours troubleshooting and days waiting on replacement parts. I got this game very cheap so I think this makes more since for me.
2 weeks later
Hey guys, having an issue with my right flipper, low power and does not hold very well, any weight (i.e. the ball) on the flipper will cause it to drop and start vibrating/popping. I have checked the switch and seems to be functional and adjusted correctly. Could it be a bad coil (hold winding)? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Left flipper works perfectly.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Could be a dirty or poorly adjusted EOS switch. If it isn't new, I would replace it. If that looks new, I would try a new coil next.
The EOS looks new, and I made sure it was adjusted correctly, I have a new coil on order, we’ll see if that does the trick. Thanks
Quoted from Gorgar666:Extremely worn coil sleeve and hardware?? Post pics of everything.
Will grab a pic tomorrow, just installed a flipper rebuild kit; new sleeve, plunger/HW, and spring.
Quoted from mrm_4:I’m looking for the top left arch if it isn’t cracked or faded too bad to stand out from the rest in a set of originals.
Sorry, don’t have that one
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Make sure your plunger reaches the coil stop.
Installed a new coil today and that did the trick.
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