(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,106 posts
  • 275 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by manples
  • Topic is favorited by 117 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 803 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20191008_213729 (resized).jpg
20191008_213632 (resized).jpg
20191008_213800 (resized).jpg
20191008_213616 (resized).jpg
IMG_4128 (resized).JPG
IMG_4127 (resized).JPG
IMG_20190911_204026 (resized).jpg
IMG_2426[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_2420[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_20190901_102204__01 (resized).jpg
Flipper switch (resized).jpg
IMG_20190901_083108 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190901_081734__01__01 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190901_174419 (resized).jpg
IMG20190901174034 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190901_181402 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider goingincirclez.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#345 4 years ago

Just picked up a project Firepower that's going to keep me busy for a while, though it looks solid and resurrectable. PF is actually pretty nice except for all the cupping. Have no idea if it will boot as-is, boards are almost all-original and quite clean, but I already see a couple charred transistors in the solenoid area. Like I said, lots to go through in stages... every major part of this machine needs attention, but I love a good challenge.

Anyway, I do have a couple quick questions:

1) What size flipper buttons does it use (1", 1+1/8", or 1+3/8")?

2) Has anybody ever changed the pop bumper skirts to blending color for the art explosions beneath them, say red / orange / yellow? Thinking of doing this, was wondering if it will really look cool or not so much.

3) What are the common weaknesses / failure spots below the playfield? All the mechs seem clean and operable, nothing immediately obviously amiss, but obviously "something" fried those transistors and I'd like to get ahead of known trouble-spots.

I'm sure there will be more but I need to order my replacement inserts and like to add everything I can on one shipping bill...

#348 4 years ago

Thanks for the comments and tips! I did order the colored skirts and transparent buttons; lots of work to go through yet before I can even think about installing them... not sure if I'll get to starting a restore thread or not but we'll see what happens. One day at a time...

#351 4 years ago

OK, still doing lots of grunt work: had to repair lots of gouges and planking and a missing neck ply on the cab and backbox, getting ready to repaint it hopefully this weekend. Playfield is stripped and almost cleaned, unfortunately it seems all the new colored inserts are a bit too large so I've had to bore the holes... whew that's a scary job. Did I mention I don't know the full extent of the boards? I know I have some work ahead of me but GPE is on vacation til June 8... so it's still day by day. For $300 I'm already having fun, will be nice to see if I can actually pull this off.

Anyway, I do have a few questions / requests:

1) Does anyone have any pictures or scans of the various labels, stickers, and warnings that would have been stuck to the machine? The only ones remaining on mine are the white "use a grounded outlet" sticker on the cab rear, and half of what was on the lockbar receiver. There's not even a serial number or manufacturer sticker or anything else, anywhere. Barely any traces of such either.

2) I need to redecal my new inserts. I have an ALPS printer so I'll be making my own. Anybody have scans or something that might save some time? I have the font and that's simple enough so I'm mainly concerned for the keylines and sizing, though I might just paint them...

#353 4 years ago

Ah sweet, that pdf is just what I was looking for! Will be a great shortcut / start for now. Thank you!

1 week later
#368 4 years ago

So my project seems to be a very interesting survivor. It had so little wear in many ways, but was beat to hell in others. The cab and backbox came from different units. The playfield had almost no paint wear but every single insert was shot. And there was a film of sticky powdery red dust on everything that makes me wonder if it had been stored in an abandoned slaughterhouse.

Yet most tellingly, going back to that minimal play wear: target #3 is missing, but all the others are intact with their original stickers! And all the switches are there, too.

So, as it happens, they are all the bent bracket versions. That includes the center target, and the POW bank.

Pics FWIW...

FP_TargetStickers.jpg

FP_Targets1.jpg

FP_PowTargs.jpg

FP_Targets2.jpg

8 months later
#564 3 years ago

I've still got a ways to go, such as board work (ugh something something no blanking no drivers no displays arrgh) and I hope to get my backglass touched up well enough to not offend Steve Richie for signing it at Louisville Expo in a couple weeks...

...but from the wreck it was when I got it last May, and being a total n00b when it comes to "pro style" restoration, I'd say my playfield isn't looking too bad now?

May 2015

Jan 2016

#568 3 years ago
Quoted from 3rdaxis:

Isn't that the CPR playfield in the second picture?

Oh, I wish! I'll take that as a compliment, though. I had to replace all the inserts and then reclear everything, but it wasn't even that easy. You can tell the pf is otherwise original because the "death star" is still slightly vintage yellowed compared to the fresh new inserts.

1 month later
#652 3 years ago

OK gents and cooler ladies, the lockout coil on the coin door: is that supposed to have a spring connecting its mounting bracket to the lockout flap?

It looks like hooks are there to connect a spring, but if there ever was one in my wrecked machine it's nowhere to be found. Or maybe it works without a spring? Can someone let me know either way?

#660 3 years ago

Pinball suppliers such as Marco sell them.

But it's virtually identical to 1/4" gray foam weatherstripping. So if you have a roll of that, it would do a lifetime's worth of pin targets... and a couple windows too!

1 week later
#685 3 years ago

As of Saturday April 23, I officially paid my restoration dues and got to put the machine back together and play my first test games...!

20160423_165308_(resized).jpg

Needless to say that score had some funny business involved, but it's been working fine (and kicking my ass) since then. Love this game. The sounds are enthralling for the day.

What is the proper pitch for it? I have it set to 5.7 - which incidentally, is about as high as the legs will go - and it seems hard enough, but I don't want it to be "too easy" either.

#687 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

What was it you did to this machine? Also, how do you measure this pitch?

A shorter answer would be, what *haven't* I done to the machine (um, remove the wiring harness and install all new switches?)... I literally rebuilt almost every component from the playfield to the boards, and parts of the cabinet. I'm using a Rottendog CPU/Driver to get me over some bafflingly stupid hump with the original set, which I eventually will figure out... meanwhile the PS, sound, and speech boards were rebuilt by me. I also replaced almost every playfield insert. A summary is here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/this-ongoing-saga-says-if-im-wile-e-coyote

It's not a full showroom restoration - there's a lot I deemed "good enough" in its as-found condition, as I wanted to retain some character. But it was still a ton of work and fun. Can't wait to do another sometime.

As for the pitch, I use the "Clinometer" Andriod app with phone on the playfield.

#692 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

do the insert decals rest directly over the inserts themselves, or do they lay over the insert and part of the play field?

The decals are designed so that the black outline - called a keyline - overlaps the seam between the insert and the playfield. This hides the seam, and provides a little wiggle room for centering and alignment to surrounding art, etc. So it's important to have the inserts and playfield smooth and level with no gaps, therefore you must apply your decals with the inserts already in the game.

You could apply the decals directly to an uncoated insert much the same as you'd apply a decal to a plastic model. But I wouldn't recommend this because adhesion might become an issue later. Your best bet is to get a coat of clear across the entire surface for uniformity, then apply the decals, then seal them under another coat of clear.

Take it from my experience: leveling and gluing inserts is as much art as it is science. You'd be heartbroken to get nice art and decals and such on your inserts, and then have a glue disaster ruin them as you try to install. It's very likely that one might not set perfectly, requiring some sanding or fill to level it... in which case you'll be grateful you saved your decals for the last step, AFTER the inserts are verified seated and properly level. Keep in mind, new inserts HAVE to be sanded to fit, anyway...

2 weeks later
#728 3 years ago

Couple of color-mod ideas to share:

Since my playfield was destroyed when I got this game, I had to replace almost all of the inserts. I took the opportunity to "fade" the Firepower Bonus Score grid from red to orange, which better matches the painted art on the rest of the game. Note that the "10,000" and "30,000" inserts are starburst pattern replacements; the 50,000 is original and one of just five that I did not have to replace!

I also changed the pop bumper skirts to match the color of their surrounding explosions. This turned out better than I expected... the pf has more color, the pop bumper stands out a little more and if anything, the white shape almost looks more authentic as an "explosion", sorta like a mushroom cloud....

ScorePops_(resized).jpg

Pinsider Captive_Ball posted an awesome mod in another thread which I had to swipe: under-cabinet LED strips tied into the hotdog inserts. They flash when the hotdogs do so the effect is awesome! I suddeny don't mind my nasty open concrete basement floor so much, lol.

FireCop1_(resized).jpg
FireCop2_(resized).jpg

#730 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Can we see those with the machine off and in a lit room?

The lighting in the basement is pretty terrible, so this is the best I can do for now. Not sure what that blocky, bright yellow reflection near the bonus value inserts is from, but it's not in the game. I should have taken the glass off, the bg reflection makes the game look filthy but it isn't!

The skirts are one yellow, two orange, and one red.

20160516_101946_(resized).jpg
20160516_102020_(resized).jpg
20160516_102056_(resized).jpg

#740 3 years ago
Quoted from Adrift:

what are everyone's thoughts on changing the body in addition to the skirt?

I actually thought about that but not until after I already ordered the skirts. If I'd had the colored bodies I would have tried, but picturing it in my head didn't convince me to order them. I suspected it would make the caps themselves look too much like UFO's... which might not be a bad thing per se, but once I saw the white body+cap as a mushroom cloud, I kept it that way. Still would be neat to see. There's no doubt a colored translucent body might cast some interesting light effects!

Quoted from catboxer:

I would stick with one color or 2 colors diagonally across from each other. That single yellow skirt looks like an Op field repair to me.

Trouble is, while the yellow one is vivid, it almost perfectly matches a surrounding yellow explosion - going with a darker color (like when I tired orange before installation) made it look weird, like an egg yolk. Opposing corners would look too checkerboardy and again, have inconsistent contrast with the surrounding art. The upper left art is yellow; the lower right is red; the other two are more "orangish" in between.

Quoted from jibmums:

all/most original Firepower pop caps have the same flaw on the left side stripes, like there was some dirt or a defect in the hot stamping. Every picture I've seen shows the same smudges.

Mine are originals and don't have the smudges

2 weeks later
#749 3 years ago

I recently picked up a NOS back glass, allegedly from an artist estate and never used in a game. It's virtually flawless except for a few minor imperfections.

Anyway, comparing it to my original, the colors are different. My original has more of a reddish hue, but the other has more yellow and better contrast in the words, as well as thicker mirrored edges around the lettering, etc.

Sorry for the horrible photo, I never had time for photos until late last night and lousy indoor lighting is my potato cam's enemy...

... Anyway, does anyone know the history of these differences?

20160603_224414_(resized).jpg

#751 3 years ago

That's interesting. I can reasonably assert my new glass is in fact NOS because 1) the glass itself is the same weight and thickness, and 2) once installed in the game, you can see very very faint hairline cracks in the ink, typical of older glasses... Or at least not expected in newer reproductions.

Actually those hairlines raise the question of how best to seal and preserve it. I see too much arguing on that subject. But I have LEDs in there so bulb heat is not the concern...

#754 3 years ago

Ha! Man, nothing gets by you

Those speakers are original Mirage OM-series. My uncle is a dedicated audiophile who custom designs and builds his own amps and arrays which are simply astonishing. He bought those when his employer relocated him "temporarily" and he wanted something small and quick to scratch the itch. Once he retired and moved back they gathered dust.

But apparently I've always been on his good side since I got into vinyl during the 90s when everyone was chucking it, so he surprised and gave them to me. I could never have afforded something like that at the time, but like the best free gifts, there was a hidden cost: they obsoleted everything else I had so I had to get all new receiver, surrounds, cartridges, etc. Oops.

First time I cranked them in my (relatively tiny!) living space, I knocked pictures off the wall and almost blew out the windows. It was freaking awesome. And songs I knew by memory even on vinyl, holy crap I heard things I never did before.

Then the wife said the sound was too much bigger than the TV, so we had to get a new one of those too. Heh, "free" speakers. But I absolutely am not complaining!

#761 3 years ago

Finally had a chance to take some (hopefully) better photos of my two backglasses. First, the thickness:

FpowerThickness_(resized).jpg

As you can see, they are the same thickness... so presumably they're from the same supplier or whatever.

Now, a better comparison of the graphics. My original, worn one is on the left (I got it signed by Steve Ritchie at Louisville this year, in the bottom left). The OEM NOS is on the right:

FpowerGlass2_(resized).jpg

At a glance the big differences are the NOS has more yellow in the explosions, deeper blue wings on the spacecraft, and a better fade behind the title marquee. More subtly, the NOS does NOT have that faded "gray" area at the 11 o'clock position on the "eclipse", nor does it have the faded gray edging the left of the explosion on Player 3.

Now, comparing to the Mayfair Repro by borrowing a photo posted earlier:

FpowerRepro_(resized).jpg

We can see the repro retains the gray areas, loses the fade behind the marquee in favor of a solid orange, and also seems to lose some blue in the spacecraft (cockpits, for example).

Anyway, it probably doesn't make a huge difference in the long run, but I tend to be OCD on this kind of stuff... guess I played too many "spot the difference!" games when I was little. But it's interesting that there are these variations in the first place! I wonder which ones are most preferred...?

7 months later
#1139 2 years ago
Quoted from rooftop:

i keep randomly frying switch rows on the driver board,

I just went through this on a Firepower I restored. I solved it as an apparent lane change short, but it was NOT as obvious as most of those supposedly are. You might find insight in my hair pulling thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oh-no-i-really-am-at-the-end-of-my-rope-help

2 weeks later
#1178 2 years ago

Yeah, everyone talks about how brutal and fast Firepower was (and still is) relative to its day. I wanted to experience and appreciate it the same way players of the time would have experienced it.... especially to contrast against other newer (or older) machines. For that reason, I when I restored mine I decided to use the original flipper design. Tuned well I have to say it's as snappy as my newer machines through the Sys11 era.

Be warned that if you decide to stay old-school but rebuild the flippers: The original coil stops were integrated to the base so if they are worn enough to warrant replacement (and they probably are), you can't just replace the stops. You have to get the newer style base with the replaceable stops. They mount exactly the same way and are almost indiscernible.

It's a worthwhile upgrade. The newer stops will restore the tighter shot patterns and make the game as hard as it's supposed to be.

#1192 2 years ago

Mine did the exact same thing... Even to the point where, like you, I thought the subsequent fading oscillations weren't flexing the metal enough to continually make points contact.

All I can say is they somehow were.

I tried everything to get those switches to register just once, but it was a fool's errand. They were just too worn - the bracket behind had been eaten down too much by the target rivet as well - so there was either too much slop or too much Rebound or too much misalignment or... Yeah.

I hated getting higher scoring (and the distracting, machine gunning sounds along with it) than deserved. I replaced the switches with new ones and the problem went away for good.

#1201 2 years ago

My targets were original (with remnants of the original black stickers no less!), and instead of a straight vertical brace that could be faced with foam, the brace was an L-bracket that had a bend right behind the target rivet. As mentioned before, that short length had been beat and worn down, but there was no place to put foam that worked effectively, without further modifying that bracket. Yet another reason I had to ultimately replace them.

If yours have the straight brackets, standard 1/4" foam weatherstripping works great if you already have some handy.

#1203 2 years ago

Wow! Nice lighting, but that's a shiny playfield! Or is it the glass? Looks great!

I did a few custom color tweaks on mine, so look for it/me at Expo next weekend, I'll be glad to exchange opinions.

I love this game. So many they're looked down upon, but there's a reason they made so many of them...!

#1205 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Come play my WCS in the cincy pinball area!

Definitely! With any luck maybe I'll get to crash the aisle and set mine up nearby this year. I dug out the Alley Cats backglass I promised Pheobe so that'll be my excuse Looking forward to seeing everyone again - I truly do need to get out more, but the rest of last year was too damn crazy with the move. Gotta make up for that somehow

#1224 2 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

mine looks like somebody had fun with the testor paint kit

My original one does too... but that somebody was me

FP_old_touch (resized).jpg

Yeah so it's not a pro job, but it actually doesn't look terrible when lit. Steve Ritchie said it looked good when he signed it last year...

FP_old_signed (resized).jpg

Only reason I got these pics now is from taking it down off the wall to put back in the game for Louisville Expo. Really tough call: I think the near-pristine NOS one I scored (my dad got it for me as a gift after I finished the machine) would be harder to replace.

1 week later
#1226 2 years ago

OK guys, I have a funny request, followed by an explanation for it:

*Can you guys post pictures of your flippers IN THE FLIPPED-UP position?*

Reason being: After rebuilding my flippers in-kind with new mechs of the original style, I always suspected they seemed to flip a little too high, almost like a GTB System 3... not quite that bad, but definitely higher than the other (later) Williams games in my collection. But I replaced everything with in-kind parts as originally designed, or so I thought... and maybe the older games were designed differently, you know?

When I took my FP to Louisville Expo, a respected player and friend with more experience said the travel was indeed too high. When he looked under the pf he agreed my mechs looked proper, but immediately spotted that the rubber button snubber/stops on the bracket against the crank arm were missing. "Well there's your problem! Put those stops in and their added thickness will lessen the travel and make it right. The new parts probably omitted them by mistake. But the hole the stops should snap into looks too big so maybe they were made wrong? Either way if you didn't know, well, you didn't know." He was quite understanding and helpful even though I felt like a giant idiot.

Wanting the game to be right, I immediately added some stick-on rubber pads at the show and sure enough, the travel was more like the Sys9-11-WPC games I'm familiar with. Which of course made FP more difficult. Cool!

But here's where it gets interesting:

When I got the game home I figured I would take the buttons off the old mechs to compare and ensure I ordered the right parts. Well, it turns out there aren't any! AND before you think they simply wore off over time, it turns out the warning sticker WMS placed to point out the (then-new!) lane change switch on the flipper mech, completely covered the hole, so there never was nor could have been a rubber stop there!

So now I don't feel so bad, but at any rate I'm still confused. How steep should Firepower's flippers be when raised?

#1228 2 years ago

I actually replaced the coil stops, they longer than the worn-to-stump originals that were in there, so the travel with the new parts was actually LESS than what the originals were...!

#1230 2 years ago

Thanks for the pics! That seems to be where mine is *after* I added the foam pads to the bracket:

FP_Flip2 (resized).jpg

And yet oddly enough, the original brackets (with integrated coil stops) never had pads there. Look again at the sticker placed there at the factory:

FP_FlipBrackOrig (resized).jpg

And oddly enough, I looked at Space Shuttle... it's flippers seem normal, but don't have the rubber pads either. I wonder if I got the wrong coil stops when I replaced the flipper bases with the modern, replaceable-stop style. Good lord but that would mean the originals were beat down even further than I thought.

6 months later
#1621 2 years ago

Hi all,

I finally fixed my master display board and got a replacement plasma score display, and would like to put the original-style displays back into my game. But I have a wire that popped out of the harness somewhere, and am not sure where it belongs.

It is single separate wire, separate from each display's harness, with discreet barrel connectors. It sort of daisy-chains one display to the next, along a Brown&White wire, and the feed wire becomes Black&White. This black wire has marks where it popped out of its source IDC connector on the master display... and I don't know which that would be.

The schematics say that Black is the Cathode keep-alive while Brown is the Anode. But since there are multiple keep-alives on the master display board (not to mention the wire changing from black to brown), I'm not sure where it belongs.

20171001_223758 (resized).jpg

20171001_223823 (resized).jpg

#1624 2 years ago

Thank you LaPorta and Travish!

Those pics are exactly what I needed. And I feel better that while looking at the schematic, my best guestimaterpretive hunch said "Hmm, I bet that keep-alive input on J7 is the one" would have been correct.

All hooked up properly and everything seems to work... save one glitch: Anybody have any ideas why one single digit would be noticeably brighter than the others? Its the "ones" place for Player 1. Swapping displays makes no change. I'd hoped that keep-alive cable might have something to do with it but no dice.

That bright digit is the last glitch in my original boards. I've now successfully rebuilt just about every aspect of this former wreck, including both sound boards, the MPU and the Driver board. Seems appropriate that in the end it's down to just one digit burning bright like the sun. Well, not quite *that* bright since that cracks the glass (ask me how I know) but, yeah.

#1626 2 years ago

"one of these things is not like the others...."

20171003_162349 (resized).jpg

5 months later
#2007 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Anybody have this plastic in good shape they would sell me? Mine broke because the previous owner didn’t have a t-nut in there and the rubber eventually pulled the post over and broke it!!?

I should have one... it's original and therefore slightly age yellowed (I replaced it with a CPR) but nice other than that. I'll double check condition when I'm home late tomorrow. If you're still looking let me know!

3 months later
#2177 1 year ago

I had the Rottendog 327 in my FP for the first few months. I encountered an odd flaw in that the OEM mounting brackets in the backbox touched the header pins on the RD board and created a short. Might have been incidental to my game only, but you never know... something to watch out for. I posted on PS at the time and Chris added the info to PinWiki.

After modifying the bracket the RD board was fine. Survived Louisville Expo 2017 with no issues. I eventually fixed the original WMS boardset and went back to that for purity's sake.

1 month later
#2276 1 year ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

Looks like their was one difference with the prototype art on the left target plastic - their is the word "try"on it where production plastics are blank there
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=856&picno=66360

In that same photo, the art on the target inserts is different too. Rather, the numbers are in a different and bold faced font that almost fills the entire arrow. I wonder how that looks lit up? Regardless, that's not quite as easy a change to replicate!

#2277 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Not sure if the rules change, but if hitting all drops down lights spinner, I imagine it will be easier to rack up points.

Wouldn't that be the same as the stand up version? Lighting all 6 would equate to dropping all 6; when all 6 are lit, locks and the 1000pt spinner are activated.

5 months later
#2692 8 months ago

What's funny is that IDC itself is not necessarily a bad concept. Just misapplied (in hindsight!) in the high current + vibration/heat prone enviro of a pinball backbox.

For proof, consider how you're reading this: Ethernet cable wall jacks (even wireless signal receivers have to physically plug into something) are almost universally IDC - even less robust at that since there is only a single-cut on those connections. And technically, the way leads in the end of a RJ45 patch cable are pressed into their conductors is IDC style, too....

...and yet those are generally failure free. It's all about duty cycle.

1 month later
#2741 7 months ago

They are supposed to be white.

When I restored mine in 2015/166, the available repros all had awful defects: the lettering was the wrong font, one character was consistently blurred, and the "wings" did not feather to nice points. Subtle but very noticeable side by side.

Here's something worth considering: the human eye perceives white in contrast relative to what's around it. So compared to the rest of the game, those will still look "white". And even brighter when lit. And they will match the other white elements that more or less faded consistently along with them over the same time.

But if you get new, stark-nuclear-white repros, suddenly they will be MUCH brighter than the inserts, death star, playfield text, and other white elements which are far more difficult to change, if you tend to be OCD about those things.

Since they cleaned nice and consistently (no staining or warping etc), I'd keep the originals.

5 months later
#2998 57 days ago

Search the web for "Clay's Guides" (not sure where those are mirrored now, and I have lousy connection myself ATM). "Mark's pinball repair pages" also helped out a few years ago, distilling Clay's into something a little less overwhelming. Pinwiki mugh also have a troubleshooting flow procedure.

Essentially you need to find out why the MPU is not booting up. "Flashing lights", attract mode, displays, etc all come from the program in the Game ROM so if the board won't boot, the ROM program won't be read, therefore you only get GI.

All sorts of reasons this can happen, and Williams games of the era are notorious for lack of any meaningful diagnostics. "your problem" might be relatively simple, or much more difficult.

Clay's Guides are as good a starting point as any. There's not really a one-size walk through given so many potential failure modes, but if you read those resources a time or two, you should be able to start narrowing things down, and other resources might even make more sense too.

3 weeks later
#3046 35 days ago
Quoted from mof:

Curious -- other than cleaning/aligning -- has anyone ever adjusted their kickout to become more powerful? (stronger coil perhaps)
I think sometimes I get a good launch half way up the right orbit (what I want), and more often, I just get a limp "pass" over to the right outlane or thereabouts.
thanks,
mof

What the... it never occurred to me that the kickout should make the full orbit to the F-I-R-E lanes! I don't think mine has ever even made it into the orbit lane in the first place. BUT it's never just direct shanked into the outlane either. It consistently hits somewhere on/near the blue Power targets and ricochets from there - generally a low-risk save like it should be, with enough randomness (and occasional freebie target score) to be interesting and keep you alert.

SHOULD it go into the FIRE lanes? Sounds like it's more common to be inconsistent... so as mine is running what seems to be a good reliable happy medium, I'm almost afraid to mess with it.

#3049 34 days ago

rlbohon3 Was your FP the incredibly nice original in the "back section" (IIRC by the Getaway and TMNT) With the flickering fire bulbs in the backbox (an idea I promptly and shamelessly borrowed, haha)? I think you've had it there in previous years; it's a highlight I always make sure to play a few times... always nice to see a FP with original flat (not starburst) inserts, and yours plays sooooo well it shames me to keep mine tuned up to snuff

Would love to get to Pincinnati. Unfortunately as I told Erik, that's a brutal time of year for me: not only does Thanksgiving typically require a Chicago trip, both my kids' birthdays flank the holiday at opposite ends only a week apart and they're too old to share now, so... along with surviving the holiday, I get to host two separate bday parties, ugh. But I just realized Pinci is ahead of T/G this year so... maaaaybe I can escape to swing a day?!

Thanks for the compliments on my BadCats. My kids put a lot of work into it and their being interviewed for TV about it was a highlight they (and I) won't forget

I have to admit, tuning FP's kickout for a free orbit shot is tempting, but I think I'll keep mine the way it is

#3051 34 days ago

Hah... my older girl has the earlier birthday, so for one week a year she can pretend to be "4 years older" ha ha. Poor little sis will never catch up!

In fairness they get along well and would compromise if we made them - we shared most of their birthdays for many years - but they're now old enough where the age difference means their individual interests, tastes, and especially friends don't always comingle well. I figured they did great sharing when they were younger (they even shared a room), so it's fair (arguably necessary) to let them indulge their individual personalities when it matters. Which is great but the downside for me is it's beyond crazy that time of year. Hopefuily will subside soon; the older is turning 15 so a traditional "party" will soon be less important than just letting her have friends over to hang out and keep to themselves... it was almost like that last year.

Dang it, if I'd realized it sooner I guess I could've tried to bring enough games to just have her party at Pinci, ha ha

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
1,475 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Lincoln, NE
$ 17.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 22.00
$ 21.00
800 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Naperville, IL
From: $ 9.00
1,600 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Lincoln, NE

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider goingincirclez.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside