(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club

By wiredoug

6 years ago

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#324 5 years ago
Quoted from ktrain315:

I recently picked up a firepower and want to get target decals. I see that there are several different options as to where to purchase (ebay, pinballdecals.com, planetary, etc...).
Does anyone have recommendations? Any decals better than others? Anyone have an extra set?

I had a local guy print some for me on vinyl. They look good. I plan to cut them out and cover them with mylar and see how they hold up. He wanted $10 CDN (about $7 US these days) for the job. After chatting a bit he decided to give them to me for free! I have attached the file I used which includes 18 Firepower targets, 12 bullseye targets and the 3 sets of spinner stickers. I have to thank Fil at www.firepowerpinball.com (great site for Firepower info) for helping me out with them.

Dino Z.

3 weeks later
#352 5 years ago

I've attached all the playfield insert labels. Open it up as whenever I post, PDF files look wonky. If you look back a few pages, I posted target and spinner decals. These are courtesy of the guys at www.firepowerpinball.com.

For anyone interested in straying away from an original machine have a look at the video of my machine. I've changed all bulbs to LEDs and added a few other customizations. Nothing crazy and probably all done before. Everything can be swapped back to original with no issues.

Have fun! I'd love to see a thread with your work!

Dino Z.

1 week later
#373 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

I just realized that I need even more help.I need to replace every bulb in my machine and need to know the types that I need, quantity I need of each type, and the locations where they go.

Change as many as you can to LEDs. They use less current and produce less heat which in the long run is better for all playfield inserts and plastic pieces as well as your backglass. They will also last a lot longer than regular bulbs. For your backglass, if you place specific coloured LEDs in the right places you can create a cool effect. You can even leave bulbs out of your backbox. I have at least 10 empty light sockets in mine.

Check post #352 in this thread for a video of my game. Every original playfield bulb has been swapped for LEDs and most of the bulbs in the .

Dino Z.

3 months later
#415 4 years ago

This is the only game I own but I love it. I have a buddy with 8 games and I still like this one best. Simple but challenging. I did a CPR playfield swap so it's super fast.

I always try to get that left kicker lit ASAP, anything to help prevent losing a ball. Multi-ball is a huge challenge and you're right, it generally doesn't last too long. I don't think I've ever earned a free ball as the 5x multiplier is hard enough to get.

I've rolled the score once during one unbelievable game and ended up with 1.6 millionish. Have never rolled it since. Personally I don't think it's a simple game to score well on and that's what keeps you coming back!

mof, that's a nice collection of games by the way!


2 months later
#514 4 years ago

Old video, prior to my playfield swap and new backglass. I think LEDs look great everywhere including the GI if you use the right colours. I have no incandescent bulbs anywhere in the machine. Keep in mind everyone has different opinions.

#516 4 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

Hey dzorbas, how did you install the green lights behind the locks?

I grabbed 3 clear plastic saucers/locks (http://ns8313.hostgator.com/~gameshop/product/clear-eject-shield-03-9101-9-copy/) to replace the originals. I installed a regular socket with a green LED at each kickout and wired them to the flashing arrow near each hole. I used a flex head bulb for each one so I could avoid it getting hit by the arm. That's about it. Cheap and easy.

Let me know if you need any more info or pictures. I'm pretty sure if you hunt around the forum someone else has posted info on this.

Good luck!

1 month later
#542 4 years ago
Quoted from gameon46:

What's a new repo playfield worth now that there sold out?

I lucked out and got mine about 6 months ago for $600 CDN which is about $450 USD using an exchange rate of $1.35. I highly doubt you're going to find one for any less than $700-800 USD.

This NOS playfield went for $911 USD on eBay in November, just for reference...

ebay.com link

Good luck!


3 weeks later
#553 4 years ago
Quoted from smailskid:

Looks like the link is broken. Anyone purchased these clear saucers from another vendor?
Have yet to check PBR.

Sorry about the bad link, not sure what happened to that place. Anyway, here's where I originally bought mine. A bit pricier but when you need something, sometimes you don't have a choice...

ebay.com link » Bally Williams Pinball Machine Clear Eject Hole Shield Indianapolis 500 Etc

PBR isn't showing clear ones on the site. Marco's also has them cheaper but the clear ones seem to be out of stock. Search for 'eject shield' on the site.

Good luck!

Dino Z.

2 weeks later
#562 4 years ago
Quoted from 3rdaxis:

And also, how do i join the club?!

Welcome to the club. Curious if you bought the machine with the drop targets or you did the conversion yourself. My understanding is that there weren't many games produced with the drop targets. Would be interesting to play one and compare it to mine!

Dino Z.

#575 4 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

never thought about it, let's just say 2k. playfield and plastics are installed but the cab still needs stenciling and backglass is meh.
I don't think anyone ever wants to buy an already restored firepower. I could see someone buying it just for the parts!

I guess I'll count myself as one of the lucky ones. I managed to score a CPR playfield for around $450 USD. I've also replaced the backglass with a new one and switched all of the bulbs to LEDs. I'm looking at replacing the displays at some point even though they all work. Plastics are okay but a new set wouldn't hurt. Repainting the cabinet is always in the back of my mind.

I think if I sold it for $2K USD I might break even not including my personal time. No plans on selling it though...

Dino Z.

2 weeks later
#595 4 years ago

A behaviour question for any of you, perhaps this belongs somewhere else. While in free play mode, if you are in the middle of a game, what happens when you hit the start button? I realize that if you do it during player one's first ball it will continue to add additional players. However, I'm finding if I hit the start button after the first ball the game resets and clears all the scores.

Can someone try this on their machine and see if they get the same result? Perhaps I have a "special" feature in my game. Maybe this is how all System 6 games respond.

I'm not too worried about it, just curious.


Dino Z.

#598 4 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

That's what's supposed to happen. Does that on System 9 and 11 games too, newer than that I don't know.

Quoted from catboxer:

That's true for just about every game, ever.

Thanks guys. I didn't want to try fixing something that wasn't broken. Now when I get off to a bad start during a game I can just hit the button and restart!

Dino Z.

#607 4 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

Yes, Comet 7 SMD strips in warm white.

Do you have better pictures of this? I'm interested in seeing exactly what you did.

I did the clear saucers and lights as well, I think it looks great. I came across it in a post on the forum somewhere and then found it on the TNT video as well. If you aren't a traditionalist you can swap the pop bumper caps and put in Cointaker Afterbuner LEDs to match. My picture isn't the best but I'm sure you get the idea...

I also loaded up my backbox with LEDs and got a new backglass. I might be biased but it looks awesome!


#610 4 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Hey guys, I'm finally in the market for a Firepower myself, and there is one locally on eBay for pickup. Wanted to throw it to the pros here as to what you think about the machine, the pics (some pretty bad wear spots on the play field that I can see), and your overall impressions. Also, I'd love some advice as to what to look for specifically on such machines when going to test them out. Thanks!
The link to the machine is found here:
ebay.com link » Firepower Pinball With Rottendog Combo Mpu Driver Bd Upgrade

Had a quick look for you. I'm not an expert but I think that price is too high. Nice to have the Rottendog board in it. Playfield is a bit shot which is not out of the norm. Backglass looks to be flaking a bit but hard to tell until you pull it out. The side of the cabinet that you can see looks decent enough. If you go check it out, read up on putting it in diagnostics mode and check that everything works as expected. Either that or slide the glass off and start a game but manually check each switch/target/saucer/etc.

Just for comparison purposes, I paid $1100 CDN for mine about a year ago delivered and set up in my basement. Everything worked as expected, my backglass was below average, my playfield had worn spots down to the wood but had been touched up. There were already many LEDs in the playfield. I would say my cabinet is average.

Hope that helps!

#613 4 years ago


The issues that he mentions about the thunder and the scoring are more than likely just switches on the playfield that need adjusting. Mine was doing the same things after I did a playfield swap. The gaps in the switches were either too small or too big. Usually an easy fix, just have to bang the playfield with your hand to determine which one needs tweaking. Honestly, I have no clue if my tilt works and could care less.

Still, that price is too high...

#619 4 years ago
Quoted from VDrums2112:

I read somewhere quite awhile back on what to do to get #555 LEDs to work in the pop bumpers of a Firepower but am drawing a blank on where I read it. Anybody know how to remedy this?

Did you put the #555 bulb in both ways? In other words, did you try it one way and then spin it around the other way? When I did my swap I put in #555 holders rather than the 44/47 sockets. I'm pretty sure that when I was testing, the bulb would work one way but not the other. Some LEDs seem to have a polarity and will only work a certain way.

I vaguely recall running into this issue so if someone thinks I'm smoking something, feel free to correct me!

#623 4 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

i'd like to know too.

Yup, got it from Mayfair as well. You can contact Steve at TheMayfair@aol.com. Mine was around $300 USD give or take. I think it was a package deal as we bought a couple of backglasses at the same time and made arrangements to pick them up at one of the shows.

Just keep in mind that the colours don't 100% match the original. I can post pictures if you like. With the right LEDs in the right spots the backglass just pops!

Beatmaster, unfortunately you will be taking a pretty big hit with the exchange rate right now but that's life. You can always wait it out!


#627 4 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

I'd like to see the pictures of this new backglass.

It's hard to get a really good picture of this with a crappy smartphone camera! By putting different coloured bulbs under "Firepower" you can give it more of a gradual colour change. As you can see by the picture without the glass, different colours in the right spots enhance the graphics.



#633 4 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

That LED color back glass lighting looks stellar...no pun intended! Where does one find repro back glass anyway?

Go back and look at post 623 in this thread. Start by emailing Steve, he is located in NYC and usually attends the pinball shows...

1 month later
#698 4 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

There are a lot of options now. I'm thinking about adding green lights to locks.

That was one of the first things I did. Cheap and easy and looks cool. Look back at posts 514 and 553 in this thread for more info.

#713 4 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I have these on mine and the game plays fantastic.
Absolutely no problem ripping the spinner and locking the ball in the top lock with these.

Guys, when looking at the Pinball Life website, what did you pick for the coil and coil stop? VID's guide says SFL 19/400 - 30/750 for the coil but nothing for the coil stop. What did you select for the coil stop? I'm assuming those setups come with the high voltage EOS switch as well.

Any issues with fitment on the playfield? How about some pictures?



#715 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

What did you select for the coil stop?


dzorbas said:

I'm assuming those setups come with the high voltage EOS switch as well.

Nope, you've got to email Terry and tell him you need #03-7811 as a substitution.

dzorbas said:

How about some pictures?


Vid is a like a ninja! Unreal! Thanks for the responses.

I did see the pictures in your guide. I was hoping one if the FP owners would post some pictures of their install.

1 month later
#750 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I recently picked up a NOS back glass, allegedly from an artist estate and never used in a game. It's virtually flawless except for a few minor imperfections.
Anyway, comparing it to my original, the colors are different. My original has more of a reddish hue, but the other has more yellow and better contrast in the words, as well as thicker mirrored edges.
Sorry for the horrible photo, I never had time for photos until last night and lighting is my potato cam's enemy...
... Anyway, does anyone know the history of these differences?

That looks an awful lot like the reproduction backglass that I bought from Mayfair but I can't be certain. I just realized how much thicker and heavier the original glass is!

Sorry about the crappy pictures!

Original glass below


Reproduction glass below


#759 3 years ago

There's a used FP playfield up on eBay right now that can be purchased for $200. I can't quite tell from looking at the pictures on my phone but the playfield doesn't look too bad. Might be a good starting point for a restore. It looks like it comes with the wiring harness as well.

Here's the link:

ebay.com link

#762 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Finally had a chance to take some (hopefully) better photos of my two backglasses.

Personally, I think I like your NOS glass the best. It seems to be a combination of the original and the Mayfair supplied glass, which I have. Don't get me wrong, the Mayfair glass looks really, really nice and about a million times better than my cracked and shitty original one. At the end of the day, a new or almost new backglass is going to look great in your game! And other than the experts and you, no one will be any wiser!

2 months later
#790 3 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

gameplay seems normal except that sometimes on balls 3-5 it'll take a few seconds to register end of ball and tally the bonus.

I've experienced this issue when the switches in the ball trough aren't set properly. The ball will gutter and nothing will happen until I hit the flipper buttons a couple of times or I bang the lock down bar a few times. You just need to get under the playfield and adjust the switches.

As for your other issues, I've never seen anything like that.


1 week later
#802 3 years ago

I'm sure some of you might be looking for the CPR repro plastics set. I know they are hard to find as well. Apparently you can get them from Best of Pinball in Germany.

Here's the link: http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/10848/session/true

My set is on the way. I will post again when they arrive.

#808 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Is Firepower a machine where it would be easy to take the back box off or does it bend over on a hinge with a bunch of wires attached?

You can unplug some connectors, remove the 4 head bolts and separate the back box off from the rest of the machine.

#818 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Looks like I got the last one.

Be prepared for some disappointment. I just received my set and the seller removed the extra sling, target and 1000 point covers along with a couple of the key fobs. You will end up with 22 of the 29 original CPR pieces and the topper. I was curious how they were selling those items separately on their site. Now I know. I'm a bit pissed off. I will be sending them an email but I'm sure they won't do anything about it.

Be careful when you order from Best of Pinball in Germany...

1 week later
#831 3 years ago

Has anyone considered modding their game and putting a spinner on the right side of the playfield. You can see what I'm thinking from the picture.

second_spinner (resized).jpg

I know it would be missing the red arrow but you could wire it into the spinner on the other side of the playfield so that they would score the same and they would have the same sound effects. If I could do this without drilling a hole in my playfield, I would consider it. I'm going to do some research and see if there is some way to use an optical sensor where you could run the wires through an existing hole in the playfield rather than the typical mechanical switch.

I think the spinner shot is one of the best shots in the game other than locking the third ball to start multi-ball. Every time i make the right hand shot to the top of the playfield I feel like I'm missing something.

I'd love to hear opinions. And yes, I'm not a traditionalist so I don't mind putting some mods into the game!

#835 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

PM Cheddar -- he tried to add a spinner to Centaur. I don't remember the outcome.
I am very interested in trying this out if you come up with the right shape/style to accomplish it.

I will check in with him.

Quoted from Jumping-Box:

What a great idea!
Wiring - would you somehow combine with existing spinner?

That was my plan, shouldn't be too hard.

The ultimate goal is to try and do this without putting any holes in the playfield or screwing up any of the plastics. I've already made some minor mods to my game (lit lock holes, post flashers wired to slings and pop bumpers, lit flipper buttons and start button, relocation of a couple of GI bulbs) but everything is reversible.

I'll see if I can come up with something...

#839 3 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Stock spinners of this era have a hole through the playfield with a leaf switch below. Modern games have a micro switch on the spinner bracket above the playfield that should work. You will have access holes to run wires under the plastics on either side. The trick will be finding a spinner and bracket that wide. STTNG's spinner may be that wide.

That would be perfect! Time to go searching. I think one of the following two locations would be better except that the spinner will be activated every time you launch a ball. Not the end of the world. These two give me some more flexibility but I have to be careful with height.

second_spinner2 (resized).jpg

Actually just found this on Marco. This would definitely do the trick but I think it needs to be wider. At least now I know what I'm trying to build and I can buy the parts individually! The single sided mount makes it easier to install but I wonder how stable that would be. Hmmmm....

second_spinner_marco (resized).jpg

#854 3 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

Ha! I can't get this shot regularly at all and have been trying to figure out why. Sometimes it hits the lock but most times it just falls away. I've tried leveling, bending the metal guides, did a full flipper rebuild per the Vid thread, adjusted the spinner endlessly all to no avail. I've given up on it. If anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate it.

I have no issues with the left lock. The top lock is easy with new the new flipper mechs I put in. When you get a good spinner rip and it goes up into the top lock, it's a great feeling! The one on the right is a different story. I always seem to be banging around the entrance or part way up to the hole. What pisses me off even more is when that one kicks out it's a 50/50 chance that I'm going to get a drain straight down the middle. I'm not sure what I can adjust to prevent that. Someone told me that the game was designed to kick that ball out and have it come down to the right flipper.

This game can be evil at times...

#861 3 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

What flipper mechs did you use? Did you upgrade to Fliptronic style? Use original?

This is what I ordered:


Coil : SFL-19-400/30-750
Coil Stop : A-12111
EOS switch: 03-7811 (high voltage) - you have to send Terry an email for this after you place the order

This is based on what Vid suggested in his guide which is located here:


The game plays very differently now, it's much better.


1 week later
#866 3 years ago

In case anyone needs to replace their rails, you can get Taylor to make them for you (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oak-replacement-playfield-rails-wh2o-and-taf-ready-to-ship-or-york).

If you are handy and have access to a table saw, you can do it yourself cheap and easy. The rails are 1-1/8" high and 1/2" wide in various lengths. You can use the following for the material:

US - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oak-Hobby-Board-Common-1-2-in-x-4-in-x-3-ft-Actual-0-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-36-in-5x4x3OR/206750862

Canada - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.oak-hobby-board-12-x-3-x-4-feet.1000761164.html

When you rip the piece with the table saw you will have enough left over to run it through again to make a second piece. Cut them to length, sand all the edges a bit just to remove the sharpness. Paint or stain them whatever colour you like. I ended up making mine black but thought about red or blue or some combination. The paint/stain will probably cost you more than the material!

This is definitely not rocket science and I think they look a lot better than that fake oak wrap that was used in the factory!

rails1 (resized).jpg
rails2 (resized).jpg

#869 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Any chance of a thread documenting this? I'd love to try it.

I thought it would have been good to have taken some pictures but it was after the fact! There really isn't much too it. Sorry for the wordiness!

The boards I have listed are the proper thickness. If you have a table saw, set the fence at 1-1/8" from the blade. I use a ruler and measure from the teeth of the blade to the fence so I have the absolute proper width. It doesn't hurt to run a scrap piece of wood through the saw to check that you have set it accurately.

When you are happy with the setting, run the oak through the first time. Then take whatever is left and run it though again. If you bought the piece from Home Depot in the US the remaining piece should should be close to the right width. This should give you enough pieces plus extra for the entire game. There are really only 4 pieces along the sides of the game and the shooter lane that need to be replaced. The pieces at the top of the playfield are a different width so I didn't bother with them. I used a black Sharpie on the exposed parts of the wood just so it matched the side rails. You can paint them if you like, I was just being lazy.

Take off the apron and the unscrew any plastics that rest on the rails. You'll also have to remove the small nails and screws (you will reuse these) in the metal ball guides on the left side of the game. Measure up the old pieces and cut your new ones to the proper length. The cut pieces will have sharp edges so sand them lightly to smooth them out a bit. Now you have to decide whether to paint or stain them. Taylor suggest spraying a clear lacquer over them as a final coat for some added durability. I figured I could always repaint them or make new ones if they got to beat up.

Tilt your playfield up and start removing the screws that hold each original piece to the playfield. It would be best if you can line up the new piece, mark it though one of the existing holes in the playfield, drill a small pilot hole and then put the first screw in. Once you get one in, you can drill the remaining pilots based on the existing holes. The other option is to use the old piece as a guide. Put it beside the new piece, mark the holes and drill them.

Once you've put all the screws back in you can lower your playfield. You should drill some pilot holes where the small nails and screws were in the ball guides. It will be easier to nail and screw them back in this way. Put your plastics back in position and any other parts (gates, spinner) that were attached to the rails. Drill pilots and replace the screws.

I think that's about it. Let me know if you have any questions.

Good luck!

#875 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Pretty much done with coin door. Back box next.

Yikes! That looks brand new! I'm embarrassed by how bad mine looks! I figure nobody sees the inside of it so I don't worry about it...

Great job!

#879 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Paint, wire harness in dishwasher and new displays while watching football yesterday.

You have way too much time on your hands! Good job!

Did you get your plastics yet?

#900 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Just kidney'd up for a plastic set but would be in for playfield and back glass. Hell, I would take 2 of each.

You know you can get a repro backglass from Mayfair Amusements in New York right? Apparently they were made by Williams in the 80s or 90s. I picked one up a while back. The colours aren't 100% the same as the original but it looks really nice particularly when you put coloured LEDs in the right spots in the back box. Not cheap for someone in Canada but my game has a CPR playfield and plastics so it only made sense to get a nice backglass for it!

Check this post for a picture:


#912 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Any idea on current price on the mayfairs?

I paid $300 USD for it with the trim kit about a year ago. I think it was a bit of a deal because we bought 3 different backglasses at the same time. With the right LEDs in the back box you can do some cool things. I used a combination of red, orange and white under the title so it looks like it fades towards the edges.

#930 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

This is some kind of joke right? I typed in mayfairamusement.com and got this site:

Just email Steve at TheMayfair@aol.com. The website is a bit wonky and I don't think it is still active. There's a way to get to but I can't remember what the exact URL is. He will answer you fairly quickly and yes, he is legit.

#935 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Yeah I emailed him earlier as I saw the email address in the screenshot and he got back to me pretty quickly. However the price of the BG, trim, and shipping is $400!! Seems a little too rich for my blood.

Not sure where you are located but I arranged to have someone pick up my back glass from a show that Steve was at. That saved me the shipping costs. You can always pick it up from him in NYC if you are ever visiting...

#950 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

And as far as batteries go, you could put in a NVRAM and never have to worry about batteries again.

Yup, you can. Lucky for me my game already had a socket soldered in so it was plug and play. Barakandl sells what you need, check his site here - http://nvram.weebly.com/. Works great!

#963 3 years ago

I did some work on my driver board and replaced a bunch of transistors and resistors. I figured using 0 ohm resistors, which I did, was no different than using the jumpers based on the research I did. I'm not an electrical engineer so I couldn't tell you whether it makes any difference. Game works just fine though.

2 weeks later
#1001 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

I have been working on another person machine but had a little time to mess with firepower. Wire harnesses all dishwashered, new zip ties and every IDC replaced with molex. Heat discoloration removed and aluminum cleaned from inside back box. I tried several ideas to remove heat "stain", magic eraser works great and no scratches.

You have way too much time on your hands! Looks fantastic! I can't wait to see the entire machine done!

#1002 3 years ago

I'm curious how many of you out there have a CPR playfield in your machines. Apparently CPR only produced 150 of them. Out of those a handful of them were classified as bronze mainly because they ran out of orange inserts for the arrows that point to the stand up targets and used clear ones instead. I have one with the clear arrows so I feel extra special!

I'm thinking they could have sold quite a few more considering there were 17410 units originally produced.

So who out there has one in their game or in their possession?

1 month later
#1035 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

there are decals you can print for free

Check post #352 of this thread for a copy of the decals...

1 month later
#1066 3 years ago
Quoted from bbriese:

It replaces the 5101 cmos ram chip at IC19 on your cpu board. Hopefully it has a good socket already and if so it's a 2 minute job.

I don't think the socket was there originally but I might be wrong. I believe the existing chip was soldered to the board from the factory. I guess I was lucky because the socket was already on the board on mine and it was a simple swap of chips. Someone must have previously done some work and soldered it in. I think Andrew (barakandl) will ship you the socket with the chip if you ask him.

Since you're bulletproofing and perhaps buying your NVRAM chip from Andrew you may want to check this out as well - http://nvram.weebly.com/repair--conversion-kits.html. Some cheap additional insurance. I can't remember if this has been discussed in the Firepower thread or not...

solenoidsaver (resized).jpg

#1070 3 years ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

I don't think it has been discussed. Tell us more-

For those interested in the fuse-board/solenoid-saver, here is the detailed thread:


Andrew gives you lots of purchase options and the install is super easy. For the cost, it seemed like a no-brainer to me.

#1073 3 years ago

New CPR Gold playfield is up for sale on Ebay!

ebay.com link » 1980 Firepower Pinball Playfield New Cpr Gold

Good luck guys!

#1075 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Only one word can describe that: expensive!

Yup, but I think there were only 250 or so made so they are extremely hard to come by. Mine was one of the last ones put together. The only reason I know this is because the arrows that point to the standup targets are clear targets rather than orange. Apparently they ran out of orange and didn't want to waste the last few playfields they had so they used clear instead. I thought $600 CDN (around $450 USD) was expensive a year ago!

At the price in the listing, the playfield is worth almost as much if not more than an entire machine!

#1077 3 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Thanks for posting the link!
I wish they used stock looking inserts, even if they might cup in 20 years.

The starburst inserts look really nice with coloured LEDs. For an older game this one looks really good done up this way. At least that's my opinion, others may not agree...

#1085 3 years ago
Quoted from Brijam:

Also, does anyone know where to obtain a left slingshot plastic? Mine has a big chunk taken out of it and it is one ball hit away from cracking into two pieces.

It would have to travel a long way from Australia but here you go...

ebay.com link » Firepower Pinball Plastic Left Slingshot Brand New Licensed

Or left and right slings, cheaper than above but not sure what shipping would be from Germany...


Or if you want a full set...

ebay.com link » Awesome Firepower Pinball Plastic Set Cpr Reproduction Firepower Plastic Set

I have a extra full set of originals but I haven't decided what to do with them yet. I managed to purchase a CPR reproduction set for a reasonable price but I'm hesitant to sell any of my old plastics in case one breaks.

You can also try to make a replacement on your own. Read this thread. I've made a few for a buddy and they turned out pretty good. I think I even have the decals for our slings and might be willing to make you one if you're in a jam...


#1087 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

I would love to try this as well. My question: do you have the image files of the artwork? The stuff on firepower.com isn't downloadable, and I can never seem to reach the site owners to see if they have them.

Send me your email address in a PM and I will send you back the artwork. I was able to contact Phil at firepower.com ages ago and he gave me a bunch of stuff. I've posted some stuff throughout this thread already. If you go back to old posts you will find the decals for the standup targets, the spinners and all of the insert overlays.

1 week later
#1112 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

BUT looked what followed me home.

Very nice! Not that we are special or anything, but knowing there's only 250 of these out in the wild, it's kinda cool to own one! Yes, I know, all those traditionalists won't agree.

I'm guessing she must have scored it on Ebay ($1211! Nice wife/girlfriend/significant other!) unless she had some other connection!

Good luck with the swap, take lots and lots of pictures as you go! I have quite a few if you bugger something up!

#1116 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

I actually will have a few questions.

No problem. I will help you out any way that I can, just tell me what you're looking for!

#1124 3 years ago
Quoted from rooftop:

need some photos of under the play field of the 4 pop bumper areas

That's a pretty nasty area under the playfield. setzkor did a good job but it would be better if you were more specific about what you are after.

#1129 3 years ago
Quoted from rooftop:

was hoping you could check the book

Schematics can be found here - http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/856/Williams_1980_Firepower_Schematics_paginated_from_manual_dated_March_1980.pdf

Tons of info here including technical - http://www.firepowerpinball.com/

I think this stuff has probably been posted in this thread 100 times!

#1131 3 years ago
Quoted from rooftop:

there are drops in the center of this one

You got drop targets? And you didn't install them? Post some pictures, top and bottom! I know a few guys have put in drops. I wonder if this might be a prototype or one someone modded?

#1136 3 years ago
Quoted from firepawa:

I noticed that the left inlane insert on the new (old) playfield is white instead of blue.

They are supposed to be blue. They match the "Power" side of the game (the hotdog and the 3 standup targets on the right).

It's probably just faded.

#1151 3 years ago
Quoted from ApplePie:

Have a look through Peter's website. He's done lots of label work...

Yup, that's the site I came across a while back and couldn't remember! Nice!

1 week later
#1155 3 years ago

Welcome aboard!

#1173 3 years ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Thanks for the feedback and encouragement.

Definitely a clean machine. Those boards look like new! Also looking at the condition of that backglass. That's amazing! Get all of those incandescent bulbs out of the back box and put in LEDs just so you don't bake the backglass. I know that it took many years of those bulbs being on to cause the paint to flake but why risk it? You would have to pay a lot of money to get a backglass in that condition!

And I agree with applepie about the mods and stuff! Lots of little things you can do with this machine!

#1187 3 years ago
Quoted from Walamab:

By the way, warm white or cool white LEDs for GI/Backglass? Opinions?

Have a look at this post. It's hard to take good pictures of the LEDs, it looks much better in person. I experimented with various colours to see what looked best. You could go soft white all around and I think it would look great.


Quoted from Schwaggs:

You can upgrade to WPC era flipper mechanics easily

I went this route and absolutely love the way the game plays now. I'm not all about keeping it original. I love the fact that I can rip the left orbit/spinner shot and lock the ball when I have to. When I first got the game that shot was close to impossible no matter how well I hit it. Perhaps I just needed a simple rebuild but I figured I might as well go all in.

Here's the link to Vid's guide if you want to replace the works:


#1196 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Got a link? Didn't know if could buy these separately.

Home Depot. Foam weather stripping.

Quoted from La_Porta:

It might have been your mechs. I have originals, and no issue making the shot if done properly.To each his own!

I think it depends on the angle that you set your game at. I believe mine is pretty steep which make it play super fast and hard. I could make the shot with the original flippers, very smoothly around the bend but the ball would just run out of steam getting to the lock. No problem making it now.

#1209 3 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

nice back glass.
i dunno what's holding me from buying a repro.

The damn exchange rate, that's what's stopping you! Find out if Steve from Mayfair is going to be at one of the pinball shows. Plan to attend or find a friend that is attending. Get Steve to bring the backglass with him, pay for it and bring it home!

#1210 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

the little plastic covering pieces

The transparent lane guides seem to come in two different varieties. Some seem to be "jeweled" and some are just transparent. I have a mix on my game. I like the "jeweled" ones better but I can't find all the right ones. I definitely prefer these ones over the opaque or solid ones.



#1220 3 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

most of them look like crap

Yours isn't all that bad! Here's my original, looked pretty awful when it was lit up:

orig_FP_backglass (resized).jpg

Who has the worst backglass? Post them up!

2 weeks later
#1242 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

which one is a close match?

As much as you may not want to do it, I would probably replace all three. It's going to be hard to match one brand new one with two that are 35+ years old. You're doing lots of work anyway might as well just do all of them!

#1248 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

any of them specifically that you think would be a good match?

Problem for me is that I have a CPR playfield and all of the inserts are starburst (other than the ones up the middle) and have LEDs so I'm completely biased. I can't even remember what my original playfield looked liked. I do recall that the "Power" inserts were really bizarre, one blue, one red, one white!

setzkor does make a good point, if you're going to do those 3 might as well do all 5 of the blue ones. Yeah, I know, you went from replacing 1 to replacing 5!

1 week later
#1264 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I swear I'm never going to roll this game.

I've had mine for a couple of years now. I think I've rolled it 3 times. There are days where I can score 400K to 500K if I work at it but a lot of the time the game beats the snot out of me. Scores of less than 100K are common!

I've started playing in some tournaments and in local leagues over the last little while. To do well you have to understand the rule sets of the games and use some technique rather than just bashing away. When I play FP and focus on the rule set and making specific shots I tend to score much higher.

#1278 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

installed drops on my Firepower

Awesome! I would love to play one with drop targets and see what it's like. I have a CPR playfield and considered putting in drops but I'm not 100% sold. I would have to try one out before committing!

I look forward to the write up!

#1294 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

You be the judge...

Still hard to gauge how different the drops make to the game play. I would love to play two different machines back to back. I'm tempted to do the retrofit just because I like to tinker and I have the CRP playfield with the proper cutouts behind the stand ups. The removal of the top gate definitely changes the game.

There's just something about knocking down targets and seeing and hearing them reset that's satisfying. I might start looking for parts at some point!

#1299 3 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

anyone remember the price of the firepower back glass at mayfair amusement. i know it's probably here somewhere in this thread... can't find it.

I paid him $300 USD last year for the glass and the trim kit. I had someone pick it up at the York show in Pennsylvania for me. That's the best way to get it. I would hate to have it shipped and have it arrive broken!

#1304 3 years ago
Quoted from limelime20:

Would like to find a new playfield

Quoted from gamedoctor75:

Looking for a reproduction play field

Good luck with this guys, basically unobtainium. There are a few out there but they are extremely hard to come by. I think CPR only made around 250 (that number sticks in my head but don't quote me). I looked high and low for one, all over North America. I was extremely lucky and found that a local pinball tech who lives 10 minutes away from me had one. And apparently mine was one of the last few completed by CPR. You can tell because the arrows that point at the 6 centre stand ups are clear arrows rather than orange. I read that CPR ran out of orange inserts and didn't just want to just leave the last few playfields unfinished so they use clear arrows instead. No problem for me, orange LEDs work just fine.

Travish just scored one a couple months ago off of Ebay I think. Price was around $1200 USD.

You may want to keep an eye on this thread and see if they decide to make a Firepower hardtop.


As for new backglasses, they can still be had through Mayfair Amusements in NYC. Look back a few posts. Not cheap, but they are original Williams that were done in a second run a few years after the game was released. The colours are a bit different but it looks a million times better than my original.

1 week later
#1331 3 years ago
Quoted from ApplePie:

decided to give the "sand it and paint it" route a shot

That is absolutely amazing! Great job!

2 months later
#1427 2 years ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

I am lucky enough to have joined the club tonight.

That looks like it's in pretty decent shape all around! Congrats and welcome to the club!

1 month later
#1573 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

After some pestering cliffy now has firepower set. Not on the site yet, just got them in. Yea!!

Do you have them installed yet? I want to see what they look like on the game. I'm having a tough time visualizing this morning...


2 months later
#1711 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Has anyone repainted/repaired their spinner? Mine could use some touch ups.

I touched up the black edges a bit but I used some stickers that I printed to cover up the rest. You can find the file with the spinner, standup and drop target decals in the image gallery.

1 week later
#1757 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

By the way, I’m going to print spinner graphics on a vinyl sheet...the sheet is wat bigger than I’d need. I’ll have extra...anyone like one?

I have an extra set, front and back. I can save you the trouble and send them to you if you like. They are printed on vinyl and I would probably cover them with a clear piece on top just for added protection. When I printed mine, I loaded up the sheet with spinner and standup target decals. No point in wasting material and money.

At some point I have to print some decals for a Black Knight that I just picked up so I can add some more Firepower decals to that sheet.

Let me know if you want them.

2 weeks later
#1798 2 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

And i gotta say, it's night and day compare to the first one i received.

Looks really good! Can't wait to see when you are done the entire machine!

#1803 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

I don't care what this guy has in this machine, he is insane for asking this

There's another one on Ebay as well and the asking price is around $3500 USD because it is rare and has drop targets! Are people losing their minds? I have a CPR playfield and plastics, Mayfair backglass, xpin displays, new flipper mechs, full LEDs plus a bunch of other odds and ends. The game plays unbelievably well.

Maybe I should sell mine. As it has some wear and tear and isn't perfect I'll ask $5K USD. Any takers? Holy smokes...

1 week later
#1851 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballfan68:

I'm hoping this is only the first of a few to have these issues and hope they look into making them better and hope pps will look into this with the supplier.

Contact them. beatmaster had some problems with his and they took care of him. Go back through this thread and have a look...

#1858 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballfan68:

The colours are rich and spectacular when not backlit!

I find that when using LEDs in the backbox, you have to be pretty carefully of the type of bulb, it's colour and it's intensity. I've put coloured LEDs in my FP and it took a while to get it just right. Nothing like removing and replacing the backglass 50 times or so. I've used the frosted LEDs and they seem to work the best for my taste as they seem to be a bit softer and spread the light a bit more. If coloured bulbs don't look good try soft white.

Pictures never do this justice...

backglass (resized).jpg

bulbs (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1871 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

I’m close to buying a backglass...hope there are enough of those, too.

There are still two options for backglasses. You can get them from Planetary or Mayfair. Mine is from Mayfair, not sure what he has left in stock...

#1878 2 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

i'd be curious to see them side by side.

Mine looks really good Bob but I'm not super-picky either. I'd love to see them side by side as well. Considering what my original looked like, this is a billion times better. I know it isn't perfect and there were some variations compared to the original but I can live with it.

1 week later
#1885 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

I got mine from a guy an hour away on a whim.

I can one-up you on that. I searched all over North America in forums for months and I almost had one in New York City (I'm just outside of Toronto, Canada) but it fell through. I found out from my buddy that our local tech had one sitting in his warehouse that he got in a package deal with an FP that he bought. He hadn't even taken the playfield out of the packaging, he just put it in his warehouse with the machine. He lives 15 minutes from me and his warehouse is about the same distance.

Sometimes things just happen to come together when you least expect them to!

#1887 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

She likes Gorgar better.

Better than FP or better than you? I believe she got it off of Ebay. She paid a premium for that thing for you!

I still don't get the fascination with Gorgar. Just doesn't do it for me in any possible way!

1 week later
#1909 2 years ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

but without seen their length

Do you need some measurements for this? There is an FP2 that we play at my league. I can get actual dimensions if you need them. Just let me know.

#1921 2 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Got tired of the constant hassles with the ball trough so I converted it to microswitches

This seems like a great idea. I will have to consider doing this. Can you post more detailed pictures?

#1929 2 years ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

I wonder why they won't re-run it?

I believe Outside Edge will be releasing a hardtop. At $300 or so, that's half the price of a CPR playfield and it won't be 10 years before it comes to market. It looks like a viable option. I will let you know how my Black Knight turns out...

#1959 2 years ago
Quoted from PonchoPinDude:

Can you remove them from the old one and reuse them on the new?

If I remember correctly, I think I took a drill bit and gently drilled the top lip off and removed the metal stand. This results in no damage to the old plastic if you want to keep it or sell it. You can then take the metal stand and twist it into the hole in the new plastic. Once you put the screw back in and tighten it up, it won't move.

#1977 2 years ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

I guess the answer to my next question depends on how far I want to go with this thing

Yes, definitely, that's the right question.

You have plenty of work to do on that playfield. If the game is mechanically and electronically sound, you have to decide how much you want to sink into it. My Firepower has almost $3K into it, which I never expected to spend and never expect to recoup. You mentioned that you aren't an artist so that leaves you with a couple of other options. I'm pretty sure that Outside Edge is doing a hard top for this game. Keep an eye on this thread:


That would probably run you another $300. You're already doing all the necessary work on the inserts to level them off or replace them. Doing a top side tear down and sanding the playfield isn't a huge undertaking. The install of these hardtops seems to be fairly simple after that. And the reviews on how the games play have been nothing but positive. The other option is a CPR playfield (only 150 of them made) but that will run you closer to $1000 if you can get your hands on one.

I'm working on a Black Knight, just waiting for the hardtop. This was a much more cost effective method to end up with a really nice, playable game. And sorry to the traditionalists out there who think sanding down a playfield is blasphemy. You gotta do what works for you!

DSC01918 (resized).JPG
DSC01995 (resized).JPG

#1984 2 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

I hooked back up a credit button

Sounds like fun times! Those trough switches suck so I'm going to see if I can replace them with micro switches as was posted in this thread a little ways back. I'm not sure why anyone puts a credit button on these games. There's a free play setting that can be configured. Have a look at the documentation, I believe it's setting 18. My game is set to 13 credits (my lucky number) in the window but it never changes.

#1987 2 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

The trough microswitch upgrade is definitely worthwhile.

Sorry Richard, I didn't realize it was you that posted the pictures of the microswitches! Useful info though!

4 weeks later
#2012 2 years ago

Anyone know if there's a way to use a System 6 board with modified software to enhance the game? I could swear I saw someone mention some "divide by 10" logic so that if you rolled it, it would should on a 6 digit display. Given that the last digit is always zero, it seems to be a bit of a waste.

Perhaps I was just dreaming...

#2015 2 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

You can download the divide by 10 modified ROMs from IPDB or just net search 'em. They're the way to go if all you want is to avoid score rollover and don't want to hack up your game for the 7 digit display mod.

Okay, that's great to know, thanks. Are the modified game play ROMs only available if you do the system 7 board swap and the have 7 digit displays?

1 week later
#2025 2 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Touched up the red and black. I clear coated the playfield.

That looks good! Damn, you're getting this done quickly!

1 month later
#2089 2 years ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Insight into how, with what appreciated?
Thinking adding a socket and a led would not be very bright?
Thank You

Use a clear flipper button. I put some clear tubing and a washer inside the c-clip so the light shines through.

You can see a few of my lighting mods here:

Post flashers -

Happy to answer more questions...

IMG_20150929_193157 (resized).jpg

IMG_20150929_193354 (resized).jpg

IMG_20150929_193246 (resized).jpg

#2093 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

How does the sling flashing work on each switch hit?

I used these post lights (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1995) and wired them to the slings and the pop bumpers. I would have to double check but I think the wires are soldered right to the tabs on the coils. Quite simple actually.

#2100 2 years ago
Quoted from swillie:

Just run the wires thru the opening that the slingshot armature passes through?

I think I have the wires running through the closest switch to the post. No additional holes were drilled.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

The driver board triggers the sling solenoid to fire and the star post light is wired in parallel with the sling coil.

I believe that schwaggs is correct. If I recall correctly the Pinball Life post light gave you two options for wiring. You could either connect it to the GI and have it always on or connect it to something like a coil to get it to flash when the coil became energized. I think there was even a way to keep them lit all the time and make them flash. I will see if I still have the wiring instructions at home.

I will also take a few pictures of the install on the top and bottom of the playfield.

#2102 2 years ago

Here are some pictures of the post flashers installed. The thin black and grey wires that are attached to the coil are the ones from the flasher. I'm running two off of each coil. The Pinball Life flashers had 3 solder pads on them. I think you use a different set if you are going to wire them to GI or if you want them to flash. I will see if I can find the install instructions.

postflash6 (resized).jpg
postflash7 (resized).jpg
postflasth1 (resized).jpg
postflash2 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#2141 2 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Pretty much anything that will score points (spinner, etc), and try and get 5x via FIRE. It’s the first multiball game; having more than one ball in play was a novelty - just banging them around was the point back then.


There is no real benefit. I think the best way to crank points is to push the multipliers up and light the spinner.

#2145 2 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Went with some Comet domed LED's as well.

I think just about every bulb in my game are frosted LEDs. Looks much nicer than the bare LEDs in my opinion and doesn't blind you!

3 weeks later
#2169 1 year ago

Cut in half, added a lead, soldered them all together, heat shrink and crimped into the new connector...

new_connector (resized).jpg
#2173 1 year ago
Quoted from Travish:

I just get a molex pin in a size larger wire gauge and put them together.

This is the smart and easy thing to do! Given that I didn't have the next size up and didn't care to order them and wait, I added an additional piece of wire.

More than one way to skin a cat (sorry for offending the cat people out there)...

#2181 1 year ago
Quoted from Travish:

I know some people here frown on some of the rottendog products

There's not much I frown on. I'm not a traditionalist and I don't need to restore things to their original state. I want something solid, that works properly so the game doesn't fail and I'm not constantly fixing and tweaking shit. Seriously, how often do people look under the hood of your games?

Do what you want, screw the whiners and complainers...

#2192 1 year ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Is that an original post location? I don't want to drill a new hole in the pf if the post is not necessary.

That's odd because I have a post there on my CPR playfield. I did my swap a couple of years ago so perhaps I drilled it myself. I know it was on my original.

fpplayfield15 (resized).jpg

This image is from the CPR website and it's not there so maybe I did put it in myself...

#2205 1 year ago
Quoted from EAZ:

Does anyone have a pdf file of the keylines and/or insert decals for firepower they would be willing to share?

Go back to post 350 in this thread. I put them up a long time ago. It may show up as a black image (not sure why) but if you download it, it will be fine.

Never mind, just click on the image that Beatmaster posted and save the file...

#2206 1 year ago

Firepower hardtop! Yes! Too bad I've already got a CPR playfield in mine. Maybe I will take the original playfield and put the hardtop on it and see if anyone needs it...

1 week later
#2218 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I played it just before I moved it and it had no issue. :/

The ball trough switches can be finicky. Go into switch test mode with all three balls in there and make sure the switches are all closed. If you've got everything plugged in properly that's where I would start.

1 week later
#2283 1 year ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Here's a pic showing the drop style target plastics, and the cut-out in the playfield for the switch behind the drops. My game was originally made for drops but shipped with standups.

Funny that there are 10 point switches installed in the cut outs that can never be hit. Definitely one of the early production games! In this pic (https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=856&picno=66360&zoom=1) you can also see a ball guide or rail of some type behind the rubber. I've never noticed that before. Never realized the original plastics were different either. That's neat.

I have a CPR playfield in mine and I have relocated the light sockets and put them in the cutouts. It lights up the plastics better and hides the bulb behind the centre standup target.

#2289 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Hi All still looking for a play repro or nos playfield if anyone has one.

CPR is doing a rerun of just about everything in their back catalogue. If you are patient, you should be able to get what you are looking for...

See here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/announce-cpr-begins-its-new-business-model
And here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-floodgates-open-plastics-amp-glasses-releases

#2291 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Another option is to sell your remaining working displays to fund a new set of led displays.

Best option if you can afford it. Mine look fantastic and you don't need high voltage to power them!

2 weeks later
#2303 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Would anyone happen to know what the part numbers are for the switches that sense for the ball to be kicked up in the shooter lane?

Not sure if this helps...

pasted_image (resized).png

#2304 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I don’t have a manual right now & I would like to order the parts.

This what you are looking for...?

pasted_image (resized).png

1 month later
#2412 1 year ago
Quoted from Brijam:

Interesting. Well executed, but it looks like it makes it way too easy. So many drains come from target bank ricochets. The ramps look like they take a lot of the skill away.

Agree with this. I think it's cool and well done but the stand ups are what makes the game such a challenge!

2 weeks later
#2433 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

[quoted image]

Come on now Vid, it's not bad. Pictures never do it justice. I've seen 1000 times worse...

1 month later
#2563 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Nice. I wish I was brave enough to try the hard top. Can’t wait to see it.

It's not that hard. I was a bit worried when I started out on my Black Knight but I got it done and it plays really well. One of my friends did a Firepower and put in drops and it turned out fantastic. Nothing really to fear as long as you are handy and confident. It's a great option at a reasonable price!

4 weeks later
#2625 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Just finished my restore. Here is the glass from Bally Bingo in the Netherlands. I'm very happy with it.
Pics are a bit blown out colour wise due to phone camera sorry. Its not that rainbow puke in real life!

Excellent work! Just curious why you used the round bullseye decals on the 6 standups in the middle and the explosion decals on the 3 standups on the right. Not meaning to be critical, just like to know how different people think...

2 weeks later
#2669 1 year ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Skip Flash and Gorgar and go straight for Alien Poker. Unless you've got unlimited room and funds...

No love for Gorgar here. Can't comment on Flash. Not a fan of the artwork on AP but absolutely love the game!

2 weeks later
#2699 1 year ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

When you get sick of chasing trough problems converting to microswitch (a la BK LE) is the way to go.


At some point I will make the change. That way I won't have to worry about them again. It's about the only thing that gives me trouble on my game.

#2702 1 year ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Man... I'm I the only one that decided if"it's worked for the last 30 years" I'll just leave the reversed switches alone? I feel like I'm being "switch-shamed". Damn now I have to go fix them.

Don't feel bad, you're not alone. I did an entire playfield swap and didn't even look at the switches. I have too many other projects on the go right now and keep forgetting to pop up the playfield and have a look. I know it's an issue but it isn't a big deal. Sometimes when the ball drains I have to bang the lock down bar or hit the left flipper for the switch to register.

#2713 1 year ago
Quoted from erichill:

He purchased the full system 6-7 flipper assembly from pinball life, so it has new base plates with integrated stops.

I did the same and can hit that shot without issue. I can check the pitch on my game but I'm pretty sure I had it set at 6 degrees if not higher...

2 weeks later
#2727 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Joining the club Tuesday and wondered if anyone knew of a CPR playfield available FS. Thanks.

Original CPR run playfields are virtually unobtainium. However, CPR has this new fancy printer and they say they will be doing reruns of previously released playfields. I know they are now printing plastics that they have produced in the past whenever you want them and they are doing backglasses as well. Playfields may take longer. You may want to review these links for more info.


I have a CPR plafyield in mine and I've also played one with a hardtop (and drop targets!). Both games play really well. I've got a hardtop in my BK and am putting one in a Space Shuttle. You really can't go wrong either way.

#2734 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

[quoted image]

Welcome to the club! This was the game you gave me some advice on when I made my own rails! Let me know if I can help you in any way.

#2742 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Sorry such a late bloomer but can someone tell me if the OEM caps were an off white? Are the repro caps worth a shit?

Sorry, I'm not a traditionalist, I hate those ugly caps. Have a look here...

#2755 1 year ago
Quoted from AdjustFailure:

Hello - my original Firepower back glass looks good with the back lighting off, but when powered up and lit, it it is crackly and splitting with gaps all over.
I have done some touching up with acrylic paints but it still looks kind of nasty when lit up.
Rather than try further restoring, I wondered what advice or experiences on best source for a (mirrored) Firepower back glass replacement/reproduction?

You have a couple of options. Mayfair Amusements in New York, Planetary Pinball was selling them but looks like they're out of stock again. I don't know if CPR ever did them or might do them.

It won't be cheap. I got mine from Mayfair a couple of years ago. After exchange and stuff, it was almost $500 CDN. I had a friend pick it up at the Allentown pinball show. It was cheaper than shipping and much safer.

#2756 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

$400? That never happens for me.

$400 for the pair? Ridiculous! Great deal!

As for the legs, I've got black ones on mine. They look good.

Check this thread for interesting stuff... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-restoration-it-has-begun/page/8#post-4855135

3 weeks later
#2802 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Inserts were proud after gluing so used a utility blades to scrape the inserts level.

Good idea! Did my Black Knight and didn't even think to do this. You might also want to do a coat of black paint around each insert in case the hardtop goes down slightly off. Then you won't see any wood showing threw.

1 week later
#2837 1 year ago

Ugh! Definitely not my best soldering work! Glad it helped though!

2 months later
#2931 11 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Has anyone modded the flipper buttons and/or the credit buttons on FP or FP2?

Yes. Replaced with clear buttons and lit up. No real downside other than some light bleeding up to the playfield through the sides of the cab.

2 months later
#3043 9 months ago
Quoted from mof:

Curious -- other than cleaning/aligning -- has anyone ever adjusted their kickout to become more powerful? (stronger coil perhaps)
I think sometimes I get a good launch half way up the right orbit (what I want), and more often, I just get a limp "pass" over to the right outlane or thereabouts.

I asked the same thing. Check this out - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-firepower-2018/page/4#post-4354484

7 months later
#3401 56 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Has anyone had good luck with Firepower spinner decals? If so... where did you buy yours?

Here you go...


3 weeks later
#3490 29 days ago
Quoted from ReadyPO:

Now a Flash or Black Knight would look awesome sitting next to the firepower!

Kinda like this...?

IMG_20200504_1657427 (resized).jpg

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