You should definitely inspect/reseat the infamous 40 pin connector along with reseating all other socketed chips.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7

That looks awesome! Can you share the details of what you used?

Do it. It looks awesome and thanks for the info!

(not the best picture)

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I updated the LED's in my Firepower last night. It's plenty bright now!

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Yes, Comet 7 SMD strips in warm white.

Thanks. I used Comet twin 2835 frosted in sunlight white. Actually all the bulbs I used are from Comet. Thanks Art!

Yeah I really like it. I saw a video where TNT did this so I shamelessly copied.

I'm also going to install Comet star post lights in the slings tonight to see if I like it.

I somehow don't have pictures from when I installed it put it's really easy. Just stick the LED's centered between the flippers at the top of the ball guide and fish the wires down to under the playfield and tie in to the the GI.

I put these in my bumper caps.

http://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpring.htm

Did you get it from mayfair? That's where I got mine at Pintastic.

It does!

I used to have colored lights as well but recently I've gone plain Jane. I even added some more lights in the backbox!

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Well it looks like I blew the 7406 by grounding GI power through the switch matrix. I was getting all sorts of switch closures. Whoops Does anyone know if I could've taken out the PIA as well or anything else? Thanks.

Well, I socketed and replaced the 7406 at IC 18 and still got random switch closures. I then replaced the the PIA at IC11 and that fixed the problem. Is GI voltage enough to take out both chips or did I manage to get a higher (coil?) voltage into the switch matrix?

You've got good taste Rob!

Thanks for that video Jumping-Box. Art will especially appreciate it. I may even have some Comet strips on hand to duplicate that with some soldering. Imagine red/blue LED strips up and down the whole underside of the cab! Thanks again!

I'm having an odd issue during switch test. It is fine for a while in switch test and then randomly the machine will "die". All the special solenoids that are normally active (pops, slings and flippers) are then dead. Sometimes it will reset into attract and sometimes it'll make a random sound effect and/or fire some solenoids and then all the special solenoids are dead. A power cycle brings things back to normal. All voltages are fine and gameplay seems normal except that sometimes on balls 3-5 it'll take a few seconds to register end of ball and tally the bonus. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks for any insight.

I've adjusted the switches and replaced one but I'll try again. Weird it only happens on balls 3-5.

barakandl took care of those items for the previous owner. Maybe I should pull the boards again and give them another more thorough check.

Thanks for the replies guys.

As an update: I rebuilt the ball 2 switch with new blades because it suffered from the infamous backwards leaf switch syndrome and all is back to normal. As a reminder to all including myself, check all of your leaf switches to make sure the rivets have the correct orientation!

I could've but there was a lot of wear on on the leaf opposing the rivet so I figured I'd start fresh. Thanks for replying.

I don't have one at the lower lock or at the upper middle right lock but I do have the holes. I wonder if they got lost along the way or were just not installed from the factory as a cost-cutting measure.

Ha! I can't get this shot regularly at all and have been trying to figure out why. Sometimes it hits the lock but most times it just falls away. I've tried leveling, bending the metal guides, did a full flipper rebuild per the Vid thread, adjusted the spinner endlessly all to no avail. I've given up on it. If anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate it.

I think I may go that route. It looks good. By the way, you should have a 3/4" rubber on those posts to the left of your pops.

Has anybody installed jumpers in place of the resistors in the switch matrix on their driver board? I saw the TNT video below where Todd said that this is a "recommended upgrade" to make the switches more responsive. Any truth to that?

The legendary Todd N. Tuckey chimes in! Thanks for the clarification Todd!

Are you thinking of the MOSFET mod for the lamp matrix? If so that's a different mod but highly recommended!

Thanks for the heads up. It doesn't look like the topper is included? Wasn't it in the last run?

I just had this exact thing happen on mine. Bad/flakey EOS switch. Jumper it to see if you get full strength but don't hold the button for long or it will melt the coil. File EOS switch and readjust to make sure enough tension is applied while closed.

Ha! I upgraded as well but I still have a real tough time hitting that top lock. I've tried everything to make it better but it's still so hard.

I'm not happy with mine at all compared to the Mayfair that this was supposed to replace. The black inks at the perimeter is very thin, streaky and splotchy, the "red" in the score windows is more pink, and the white mask on top of all the ink is thin and doesn't cover the entire BG so it let's the LED bulbs' points of light shine through resulting in very uneven and distracting light. You can actually see the SMD's through the BG. I'm much happier with the Mayfair (except for the blues) which is why I got the newest version but I put the Mayfair back in. So now I've got an expensive doorstop. I contacted PPS but never heard back so I contacted Outside directly. To sum up, Bruce said he'd only heard from 2 people (including me) about issues and this is the best they have and a replacement would be the same. He admitted the blacks were thin but the red was a tough call to pick a hue from all of the sample original BG's so that pink hue is intentional. He also said they "may" do another run in in several months and I could get a replacement then....if it's run again. I'm not too hopeful.

I bought the Mayfair at Pintastic for I think $300 and had it for a couple of years and loved it. I then bought the Planetary version thinking it would be an upgrade but I hated it. The ink is too thin and some of the reds are pinkish so it's sitting in the box and the Mayfair is back in. I did like the blue and the green on the ships of the PPS version but to me the Mayfair is much better.

You also have the infamous reversed leaf switch issue on that star rollover switch. Many switches were made incorrectly at the factory with the riveted side on the inside of the switch. That gold plated round nub should be on the inside of the switch. Take it apart and reverse it and check ALL of your switches for same.

Just a note: the "5X" is backwards so you'd have to edit it or find a correct version. Good luck!

The 5X actually needed to be flipped horizontally and then vertically.

Here are the two versions that were previously posted (large and small keylines).

Firepower Decals 5X Fix (Large Keylines).pdf

Firepower Decals 5X Fix (Small Keylines).pdf

Mmmmmmm! Mine should be here tomorrow! I didn't think of this before but I wonder if the playfield is silk screened or their new digital printing tech? I was assuming silk screened but there's no mention of the process used on their website.

Well, I've received it and I'm not too happy about the crazing on many of the inserts. CanadianPinball Do you have similar issues? Do you guys think this is acceptable for costing almost $1,000?

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It looks like a Firepower II head on an original Firepower. What to do about the backglass since the original won’t fit?

That came off really cleanly. Do you know what removal method they used?

You can also buy window tint at an auto parts store. I got this and it works OK. It’s maybe a little too dark but it’s better than it was.

https://www.autozone.com/sun-heat-protection/window-tint/p/gila-35-smoke-scratch-resistant-window-tint/458892_0_0

I used these as replacements in my firepower and they worked great. And they cost $6.95 back in 2013 and nine years later they’re only a dollar more! Thanks Pinballlife!

Yup, that’s what it is! Put some drop targets in that sucker @AirWolfNH!

OMG! I am floored! They are backwards by design for Williams, Bally and Stern? What was the point? To ensure a definite contact point for a couple of years with the sharp back end of the rivet?

You should try to straighten up your targets and also bend them forward so they don’t launch the balls in the air.

Check if the blades on your trough switches (and all of the switches in the game) are reversed. Many (most?) were incorrectly made with the blades of the switch reversed with the rivet side making contact to complete the circuit instead of the gold contact. It should be that both of the gold plated switch surfaces touch to complete the circuit not the black looking rivets on the back side.