Firepower
Williams, 1980
Firepower II
Williams, 1983You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Travish.
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Quoted from La_Porta:To let everyone know, it appears that there are some new-manufacture pop bumper caps on eBay. They don't appear to be the crappy, rounded-edge ones that have been floating around. Can someone take a look at these and see if they look good?
ebay.com link » Firepower Pinball Machine Pop Bumper Cap Set
Ordered some and got a tracking number. Will have them in another day or so.
Quoted from dzorbas:I'm sure some of you might be looking for the CPR repro plastics set. I know they are hard to find as well. Apparently you can get them from Best of Pinball in Germany.
Here's the link: http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/10848/session/true
My set is on the way. I will post again when they arrive.
Looks like I got the last one. 
Quoted from HHaase:Also very easy to pull the playfield, which makes moving the cabinet much easier
If I pull the head and playfield I can move the game upstairs by myself no problem.
Quoted from La_Porta:Any word on getting those pop bumper caps?
Yes they came in. Much better than my originals but could use the red ink to be darker.
Quoted from BriPin:As an update: I rebuilt the ball 2 switch with new blades because it suffered from the infamous backwards leaf switch syndrome and all is back to normal. As a reminder to all including myself, check all of your leaf switches to make sure the rivets have the correct orientation!
A lot of times you can take apart the switch stack and correct the contacts and be fine. If you still have issues go ahead and replace switch.
Quoted from BriPin:I could've but there was a lot of wear on on the leaf opposing the rivet so I figured I'd start fresh. Thanks for replying.
I guess stern wasn't the only ones with awesome QC. I am amazed how many of those switches went out in so many games.
Quoted from La_Porta:Out of curiosity, anyone know if white or yellow flipper bats are original? Are both at different times during the production run?
Was wondering the same. I see game flyers with both colors.
Quoted from Geocab:Looks great! What'd you do? Just metal polish and elbow grease?
And cherry picking 2 1/2 doors. Paint is drying on the light board right now. New displays on UPS tomorrow.
Yes and I was missing the same ones I think. I looked in package but didn't get out the playfield to triple check. Well... If it's a complete set besides the "extras" it is still WAY better than my old warped, yellow ones.
Quoted from scampcamp:Since we're talking about new plastics & playfields..... how would you touch up these bad spots? A pinball guy about 2 hours from me could make it look good for $300 but if I could get a close match or if someone may be making a new pf.... that would be great.
I was thinking about contacting a local art student and see if somebody there would be interested in doing something.
I would more worried about removing the 2 big yellow arrows 
$300 that's pretty steep. Like has been said, someone needs to do another run. With over 17,000 of them there is a market.
You could probably send it to a professional and have the whole thing touched up and cleared and be much happier in the long run.
Quoted from dzorbas:You know you can get a repro backglass from Mayfair Amusements in New York right? Apparently they were made by Williams in the 80s or 90s. I picked one up a while back. The colours aren't 100% the same as the original but it looks really nice particularly when you put coloured LEDs in the right spots in the back box. Not cheap for someone in Canada but my game has a CPR playfield and plastics so it only made sense to get a nice backglass for it!
Check this post for a picture:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-firepower-club/page/15#post-3184173
Yes and I have mayfairs in both my Gorgar and black knight and they are perfect. I saw the colors are off on firepower a little and actually I kind of like the yellower look. I am into the middle of the machine (the back box is still in the floor) and I have plenty to do before I start ocd'ing on the glass. Give it a few months. Any idea on current price on the mayfairs?
Quoted from dzorbas:I paid $300 USD for it with the trim kit about a year ago. I think it was a bit of a deal because we bought 3 different backglasses at the same time. With the right LEDs in the back box you can do some cool things. I used a combination of red, orange and white under the title so it looks like it fades towards the edges.
Thanks.
Quoted from Bugsy:How do you order from Mayfair? It looks like their website is down. Anyone know if they are still selling backglasses?
I just went to their site. Mayfair amusements. I would link but I am on my phone.
Quoted from Jumping-Box:Scampcamp, I feel your pain. I'm going to PM you a .pdf file of the firepower manual. It helped me.
Again, check and see if the coin door switch is sticky. For me, if I set Firepower on free play and that switch is stuck, it wont work.
That rust inside the door would keep me up at nights. I would be wire brushing at 3am.
Quoted from Bugsy:Anyone know what size the number 20 bonus insert is? I thought it was 1 1/4" but I can only seem to find the 1 3/16" size. Of course the difference is only 1/16 of an inch but figured I'd ask.
Also, since I'm not at my game currently, anyone know the part number for the coil on the outhole kickers?
The book says the kicker coils are sg-23-850-dc, same as the bumpers.
I have been working on another person machine but had a little time to mess with firepower. Wire harnesses all dishwashered, new zip ties and every IDC replaced with molex. Heat discoloration removed and aluminum cleaned from inside back box. I tried several ideas to remove heat "stain", magic eraser works great and no scratches.
Quoted from dzorbas:I'm curious how many of you out there have a CPR playfield in your machines. Apparently CPR only produced 150 of them. Out of those a handful of them were classified as bronze mainly because they ran out of orange inserts for the arrows that point to the stand up targets and used clear ones instead. I have one with the clear arrows so I feel extra special!
I'm thinking they could have sold quite a few more considering there were 17410 units originally produced.
So who out there has one in their game or in their possession?
I wish. SOMEBODY needs to do another run. I will take 2 and only have one machine.
Quoted from dzorbas:You have way too much time on your hands! Looks fantastic! I can't wait to see the entire machine done!
Here is the machine I am doing for guy who bought my sit down twin outrun. He drove machine all the way from south Alabama. It's an Atari X & O football. Almost done.
Quoted from VDrums2112:Good on you! I work on high speed commercial digital printers and the number of IDC connecters in these things is upwards of 400 per machine. It's stupid. We are forever taking a small flat head and pushing wires back in to keep these things running 24/6... Converting all 6 machines to molex?... Ain't gonna happen.
I have chased connector gremlins before.
I have completely redone Black Knight, Gorgar and Firepower. Gorgar and Black Knight have been trouble free for years.
People complain about older machines always breaking down, I might have had to clean a few trough switches in 5 years.
Quoted from scampcamp:Several of the inserts in my Firepower are shrunk. Could someone please explain the best way of going about repairing this issue?
Also I see that the Playfield scenes pretty dry where the paint has thin lines missing. Would a Playfield protector make it look ok? Thanks
By shrunk do you mean cupped or loose/flopping around in the hole. The best approach is glue and level the insert (if loose) and fill the cupped part with clear. You could also replace the inserts, install decals on the new inserts and clear the whole playfield depending on how much you want to put into it. You could always touch up the lines and put the playfield protector on. You won't have to worry about the cupped inserts and it will look like new.
I am on my phone so I can't link but type in the search box lexan playfield protector. Rotordave has a good thread about putting on firepower. The supplier/manufacturer is in Germany. They have a sale going right now and every once in awhile.
Quoted from La_Porta:This really is impressive....how did you go about repainting everything? Is that caution sticker original as well? Mine only has a rusted and silver sprayed-over bar, so I have no idea! No worries about lead paint?
Krylon makes a satin black that matches the cabinet almost perfect. You have to be in the sun to tell. I sanded the bar really well with fine wet sandpaper and used a Eastwood company paint that is used on car restorations to paint the bar and a few other pieces. The sticker is a reproduction. I got it and several other stickers like the "connect ground strap" in the bottom of the back box and "inspected by" set and the little rubber cushions on the knocker assembly and side lane kicker somewhere. Can't exactly remember right now.
Quoted from Travish:The sticker is a reproduction. I got it and several other stickers like the "connect ground strap" in the bottom of the back box and "inspected by" set and the little rubber cushions on the knocker assembly and side lane kicker somewhere. Can't exactly remember right now.
I remember. It's action pinball in Salt Lake City. They have several things I couldn't find anywhere else.
Quoted from dzorbas:For those interested in the fuse-board/solenoid-saver, here is the detailed thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7
Andrew gives you lots of purchase options and the install is super easy. For the cost, it seemed like a no-brainer to me.
I put those on all 3 of my Williams. My first machines board lasted about 20 seconds before a stuck switch screwed me. Off the truck, in the house, set up and pop!!
Quoted from La_Porta:At least you don't need to worry now. By the way, you don't happen to have one of those flat scanners, do you?
No but if someone near Greensboro does it's available for a little while anyways.
Quoted from dzorbas:Very nice! Not that we are special or anything, but knowing there's only 250 of these out in the wild, it's kinda cool to own one! Yes, I know, all those traditionalists won't agree.
I'm guessing she must have scored it on Ebay ($1211! Nice wife/girlfriend/significant other!) unless she had some other connection!
Good luck with the swap, take lots and lots of pictures as you go! I have quite a few if you bugger something up!
That's just the tip of the iceberg with her. Except for a few migraines she can't control she's PERFECT.
I actually will have a few questions. There are 2 wire hacks under the playfield and will need a couple pictures. There were a couple of burnt coils and no boards when I got the game.
This won't be my first CPR and I have a really big card in my camera. 
Quoted from Groucho:Hi guys,
I'm looking for all the warning/shop out labels that sit inside of the headbox for my firepower.
I've looked everywhere and cannot seem to find them.
I'm in need of.......The 'for this game' decal, danger/high voltage decal, master command label and fuse panel location decal.
Now before you ask, I am totally hopeless with computers, especially recreating artwork.
Has anyone reproduced the artwork themselves that is happy and willing to share?
Does anyone know where and if available for purchase?
I am able to print them, that I can do.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for your time....
Add me to the list. I have looked high and low and can't find those stickers anywhere.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I'd say that's too big.
Thats what I was thinking. The book shows a different path for the ring but it seems crazy and doesn't look right either. I usually don't have a huge selection of rings laying around.
Quoted from Walamab:Here's a weird one for you guys...I've gotten my FP playable and looking pretty good. I left it on for a while just to see what happens. After about an hour just about every sound in the game started triggering and it ultimately popped the solenoid fuse (F2). I checked for obvious issues (other than the blown fuse) and everything looks fine. I replaced the fuse and everything works and plays fine. I'm gonna chalk this up to a fluke but if it happens again I may have to get some help.
It was lonely and wanted to play. Sorry I will leave now.
I have great luck with rottendog but others have had a issue here and there but say their customer service is good. You also can try pinballpcb but notice their website says they have discontinued making Williams boards. WTF.
Quoted from Antennaejim:Mostly the sound and speech calls were incorrect compared to the factory boards.
Yes on my black knight the laugh in attract mode after he says I will slay you is missing. Other than that I "think" they are all there?
I can't help to much except to say unplug solenoid connector to the playfield and see if a fuse still blows. At least you can eliminate the playfield and narrow it down to the board. You should make a thread in the tech section and more people will see it.
I think he is talking about the switch. Like this one but they are out of stock at marco. There is the part number though.
Quoted from La_Porta:any of you guys have experience with the game High Speed? I have a chance to look at one st a house estate sale
It sucks. Where you live again? 
Usually if you do not score it just kicks the ball back out without draining. When it does that do any points score? Possibly a switch is to close and the vibration scores a point and if treats it as a drain. If it does score, see how many points go up and check all the switches that score that amount of points.
Quoted from Antennaejim:Doesn't Mayfair still have the reproduction mirrored still available?
Yes but $$$. I think I saw in the other thread this one will be mirrored too. Here's to hoping firepower will be in the line of the $250 Gorgar price. Wait, I meant $150.
Quoted from Antennaejim:Haha $150 that was funny nothing is ever that cheap anymore.
Shhh...
Quoted from Bugsy:Anyone know what happened to firepowerpinball.com? It used to be a good reference site with really good information and now it's just pictures of a game.
I thought I was the only one who couldn't find it. The page had a game for sale now only says sold?
Like vec-tor said check the lane change switch and wiring. There should be a little piece of plastic that separates the EOS switch and the lane change switch. If you have to marco sells the switch.
No they should be here in 2 more days.
They are cliffy protectors that go on the shooter lane and kick out holes that prevent the ball from damaging the wood. With my new CPR playfield I want to make sure it stays perfect. He also has "enhanced" lane guides that stop ball hop on transition from frames to flippers and many other really nice protection products.
Quoted from Masspinballfan:Hey gang. About to become a member and picking up a restored FP with a nice original p/f next week. It does need new pop bumpers caps though. Where is the best place to purchase them and does anyone sell a set that look close in resemblance to the original ones?
Marco has them but the ends of the red lines are rounded instead of pointy and the letter "o" is wrong and so is the font on the "w". Here is a picture of Marcos and a picture of the originals on the right and classicarcades from eBay installed on the left. Classicarcades got the lines right and the letter "o" and "w" but the red is not quite as dark. Price is the same, about $30 a set.
Quoted from Outsidedge:Hello Firepower folks! This is Bruce from Outside Edge.... and we are working on a project for PPS to produce shiny new back glasses. Through our research and provided specimens from the field we have (for about the millionth time) uncovered apparent variations that exist in the originals. This leaves us troubled, as there will only be a run produced to match one or the other. Look at my picture..... I have actually seen more of the "dark red" versions so far than the more "bright red" ... leading me to believe the darker is probably the one that there are more of (and possibly expected by the would be buyer)..... HOWEVER... I have traded emails with Greg Freres... and he believes that the BRIGHTER glass is what was intended. I also have to agree that the bright red is a better looking glass.
That being said... please respond with some opinions as to which we should match. I am either going to disappoint the "dark red" camp... or the "bright red camp" ... but I have o choose one.
Any update?
Quoted from Masspinballfan:Picked up my restored FP and all I can say is wow! New PB caps should be here Monday. The only issue now is my backglass looks lousy and I want to replace it and not wait for BG resto to repair this one.
Where's the best place to get a nice replacement FP backglass?..Mayfair amusements?
Mayfair still has them but you might want to wait just a little more. Pps is about to have another repro out and possibly cheaper with the correct colors. See post number 1506 in this thread.
Quoted from Toyguy:I'm working on swapping a CPR playfield into my game and wonder if someone could help me out. My playfield is only drilled for 3 posts behind the 4-6 targets but I see most originals and some CPRs drilled for 4. My original has 4 there. Anyone know for sure if 3 or 4 were originally used? I can see why you might want a fourth there to shape the rubber and perhaps avoid a ball trap situation under that lower right pop. The area on the playfield does have a slight shape to it.
Here's mine.
Finally got my sound working. Pulled out a couple of sound/speech boards from my pile and none worked. I just went ahead and ordered all new sound/speech boards and put them in. Still no sound. Started checking continuity on wires and somebody moved one of the speaker wires in the large connector leading to the head. Guess I should have checked that first. 
Quoted from alimerick:Looking for circuit board bracket that the bottom of the cpu sits in. Has the channel in it for the board. Firepower is missing this bracket. Same bracket would be in any Williams pin with the 40 pin interconnect. No luck for awhile searching.
Thank You
Responded on your wanted thread.
Quoted from La_Porta:Hi guys, does anyone know about this little rubber ring that fits over the credit light? Mine has deteriorated beyond salvaging, and I wasn’t even sure what the heck it really is for. Anyone else know?
Rubber? You mean the one in the apron? It's should be hard white plastic. I have a new one if you need it.
Quoted from La_Porta:Guys, what type of diodes are those connected to the pop bumper circuits? One of mine is busted. Can’t find their rating in the schematics.
Diodes or capacitors?
Capacitors are 22uf 25 volt.
Diodes are regular 1n4004
Action pinball says you can use this gottlieb as a replacement? I would use your meter and check continuity on the old switches and wiring first.
Quoted from La_Porta:I'm having a bitch of a time finding the exact right size nylon replacement. So far, I've determined that it is a large-bore one and that the metal replacement's dimensions are, per Marco:
5/8 inch inner diameter x 2-5/16 inch long coil sleeve for large bore solenoid coils.
Can't seem to find that exact size in plastic.
Don't worry about the sleeve. What is the coil? Should be a regular sg23-850. It's been a couple months since I had the apron off. I can look if you need.
Quoted from La_Porta:Amazing...I’m glad I got mine, too. I’m close to buying a backglass...hope there are enough of those, too.
Shhh..
Quoted from RobertWinter:Does anyone have an old Firepower playfield from a swap they've done? Mirco has the original art for the playfield but would need an actual playfield for color and mechanical reference.
Pm sent.
Quoted from xeneize:Gang:
I am in the middle of restoring my lock down receiver bar, and know that at one point there was a warning decal measuring 6" by 7/8" across the top.
Will someone please provide me a photo of said decal so that I can make a reproduction? It had something to do with lifting the playfield and is not available on inkochito's site.
Thanks in advance!
Quoted from La_Porta:Anyone know where to get a repro sticker of what goes on the lockdown bar?
Lockdown bar sticker? Are you talking about this warning label?
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=PDG356
These people have most all firepower stickers in stock.
Another EOS switch vote. Just because it's new and maybe even gapped correctly it still may not have good conductivity. Check/file/jump the switch. If that doesn't work put a meter on the coil wires and check voltage especially if it happens again to see if you still have power.
Quoted from jedi42:I have a Firepower that has been working great, but last night I noticed the 1-4 players and shoot again bulbs in the backbox don't light up. Tried in diagnostic mode and all other bulbs light up except these ones. Anyone ever have this issue before?
Stupid question of me but did you change/check the bulbs?
Quoted from Lido:Has anyone (besides me) picked up the new(er) Firepower reproduction backglass? Marco and PPS have/had them. The colors and mirroring look good, but the artwork or printing, on mine at least, isn't quite perfect. It will probably look good enough when it's in the game and you're a few feet away though.
There have been a few threads about those new backglasses. The manufacturer (outside edge here on the forum)and pps have been replacing if you call them.
Quoted from setzkor:Because mine come to the connector in a loop...they do not terminate at the IDC. So it will be 2 wires to crimp into one pin for each IDC. Now, don't ask me where each side of the loop goes
Oh I got you. On those I usually crimp both wires in the one pin. I just get a molex pin in a size larger wire gauge and put them together.
IMG_4446 (resized).JPGQuoted from beatmaster:Travish, how do you like the rottendog mpu so far?
I know some people here frown on some of the rottendog products but... I have 3 games with William combo boards and power supplies and never had a single issue. The laugh is missing in attract mode on Black Knight but that's all.
I have about 6 years on Gorgar. 4 years on Black Knight and about 3 years on firepower.
Quoted from StratDoc:I am finishing a pf swap on my firewpower with a CPR gold pf. It looks really beautiful. I have a quick question - also posted this to the restoration forum but thought this group would have more information.
On the original pf and on some original pf images I have seen online there is a metal post just below the left pop bumper and slightly above and to the right of the 3 left targets. The CPR pf does not indicate that anything should be located at that position. Is that an original post location? I don't want to drill a new hole in the pf if the post is not necessary.
Thanks
My original playfield had the post. My CPR did not have the hole but I drilled and installed the post.
Quoted from La_Porta:Well, I installed my cliffy protector and replaced my shooter lane ball eject cam arm, and have two problems. One is that the cliffy is too wide by 1/16 inch or so...what I mean by that is if I move it to fit properly over the ball trough, it impeeds the straight firing of the ball by a hair...not Motoblur in play, but will eventually scratch up the balls. If I align it with the shooter lane, then it covers part of the ball trough and impeeds the balls getting all the way to the end of the trough. I’m worried about the latter because...
Now that I changed the cam arm (and coil spring sleeve), the ball rockets out of the trough like a bat out of hell. The problem with that is it is colliding with the underside of the apron and sometimes not even making it into the trough. I’ve tried adjusting the lane width at the exit to no avail. I had a new spring I bought for the mechanism as well, but that put even more power behind the ball. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong adjusting these things. Anyone have suggestions?
You can trim/adjust the cliffy with a belt sander or a large sanding disk with a fine grit disk/belt along the straight edge. I make tons of stuff with a break and shear using stainless steel kick plates used on the bottom of doors and use this method. Something somilier to this. If you don't have access to one you can lay a larger piece of sandpaper flat and rub the edge you want to work back and forth. Works much faster than you would think.
IMG_4526 (resized).JPG
I'll just add that the CPR playfields already have the cut for the drops.
I have thought about changing to drops but just can't bring myself to do it. Part of the game strategy is how those damn stand ups will send it right down the middle if you hit the left bank off the right flipper or the right bank off the left flipper. I hate that damn thing but have to hit the start button one more time.
Probably a bad display. You can swap displays and power it up and see if a different resistor starts getting hot but don't hold your finger on long. I had the same issue. There's a thread here somewhere.
Oh, if hit edit and pull up the pictures and tap on the picture you want to delete you will get a "x" and you can delete the picture from there. Like this.
IMG_4533 (resized).PNGIt's the warming circuit for the flashers. It supplies a tiny amount of power all the time to keep the filaments warm. It also keeps the bulbs from burning out quickly. If you are using leds you need to clip one leg of the large resistor to disable. If you don't the leds will stay on dim all the time.
Has the power supply been serviced in the last 10 or so years? If not you should go ahead and start there.
It's more than likely the capacitors or the bridge rectifier.
Quoted from matiou:I'm new to the club! And I'm almost done reading this cool thread... but 48 pages take some time!
I have a -first- little question for the Firepower community... Could someone take a picture of the locking mechanism in the backbox ? Not the part around the key lock, I'm interested in the part that blocks the backglass and prevents it from being lifted. I might have a missing piece because turning the key does not block the glass in my case. I guess it's a pretty standard feature, but the only other machines available around me are EMs!
Thanks!
I can get you that tomorrow if someone doesn't beat me to it.
So he took out some targets and added ramps. At first I thought how will you light the locks then saw he wired the ramps as one of the targets. If I had never seen a firepower it looks good but something's just wrong about it. If he likes it is all that counts though.
I've seen the out lane tight on that side before. Usually on CPR replacement playfields.
That is the flasher board for the fire and power flashers. It supplies a small amount of current to "warm" the flasher bulbs for longer life. If you use led's you will need to clip one leg of the resistor (yours is burnt) so the led flashers will not stay dimly lit all the time.
It means set it back to firepower and try again. When I first set up a RD for one of mine a few things were wonky. I called and they said start over from the beginning that maybe one of the rocker switches may not have been all the way or making contact or something. When I did that everything was back to normal. Can't hurt, might help. ??
Other than that call them and see what they say.
Coils really don't get damaged. If something on the board goes south and then locks on the coil and it overheats then yes the coil could be damaged. Unless it shows signs of heat it's probably good. You could ohm out the coil to be sure.
Quoted from Aniraf:I don’t see any “F” numbers on the board, but it is this one...
[quoted image]
Something tells me there have been a bunch of "f's" just not on the board.
Now the time to get you a good molex crimper and $20 worth of connectors/pins and get rid of all those damn IDC connectors. One good day and you will be set for years of trouble free service.
Have you fused the bridge rectifiers?
Quoted from Brijam:Anyone know where I might find a coin door? Mine was recently vandalized.
Should have told your wife you empty the quarters every night to keep that from happening.
Quoted from Aniraf:Do you want to repair a RD board?
The schematics are out there. I would call coin op cauldron.
Quoted from MrFancy:when the ball comes down from the left of the pop bumpers, it very frequently goes STDM. Is that normal?
Normal. That's part of mastering the game. A good nudge right when it bounces off the side will help. Just like on the right side when it bounces off the shooter lane gate if the ball is going slow.
Quoted from KJS:Just starting this as my next restore.
I have 2 machines at the moment.
Getting one cabinet professionally restored this time around.
The game that got me into pinball!
Startng with a cpr gold that's had to be reworked twice to fix up.
Going to try a NW7 board from France with stereo out should be interesting...
Hoping to have it done by xmas.
Let everyone know about the NW7 board. There has been a little discussion but no hard facts yet.
Yes it's there. Go to diagnostic procedures to see how to get to switch test then refer to figure 4 to see the numbering on the switch locations.
http://gamearchive.askey.org/pinball/manufacturers/williams/instruction/firepower/index.html
Quoted from Aniraf:Anyone selling a new back glass? I am possibly in the marke for a remake perfect version.
How much you wanting to spend? You want absolutely perfect call Mayfair.
http://www.mayfairamusement.com/backglasses.html
You want really nice call PPS
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-08-7227-FIREPOW-V2
Quoted from SR230CC:I joined the club this weekend. This one is a little flaky but plays. The displays go in and out but look good. I also have an issue with the flippers scoring points, I think it is just some nearby switches. I need to update the connectors, touch up the playfield, and buy some back glass. I think that after a full shop job this will be a really nice game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Playfield looks better than most. Nice find.
Your targets suck and your flipper is a little droopy.
Quoted from Aniraf:Any idea what Mayfair charges?
The black knight and Gorgar I got from him were about $300~$350. You would have to call. BUT they are the original Williams reruns and are absolutely perfect.
Quoted from Aniraf:One of my pop bumpers stopped firing and I cannot for the life of me understand how to get into the switch test or solenoid test. The instructions say turn to page 7 where it tells you how to reset the high score :/. Any tips?
No it's on the bottom of page 3 under "diagnostic procedures"
Quoted from Schwaggs:Usually this is caused by dirty switch contacts. Clean the start button contacts by pressing the contacts together and pulling a piece of paper through them. Then gap the contacts close together, around 1/16".
After a playfield swap mine was doing the same thing till I cleaned and adjusted the start switch like you said. Maybe 1 out of a 100 now.
I researched when I replaced every target. This is the only replacement that is 100% correct but...
You have to take one leaf of your original target to add to the stack and remove one small spacer. Basically take the new switch and add one leaf from your old target. They work for front or rear facing targets. They are perfect in every way.
Unfortunately marco says temporarily out of stock. I saw flippers in Canada has them in stock though. Maybe someone else too.
Quoted from someotherguy:Just mush those wires in there tighter with a pocket screwdriver and carry on. Hell, it works a lot of the time anyway.
And in the end, we replace properly with real live crimp connectors.. trifurcon preferred
Richard
Nope. I replaced every single one with trifurcons. Might take a weekend but will never chase a connector ghost again.
Quoted from funknflow:just coming on to say I got my NW7 this week for my Blackout pinball machine and it is AMAZING. Works wonderfully and is very easy to set up. A GOD SEND!!!
How was the total cost? Wonder if they will work with the games that rottendog gave up on?
Quoted from TaylorVA:I’m still on the hunt for the ball guides that go below the flippers and a shooter lane exit game, all were missing from the game I just picked up. Any help is really appreciated. Thanks.
Are you talking about the biff bars? I've never seen any for sale. You may have to make your own with stainless wire stock. Marco has many different thicknesses.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Wire+stock
Quoted from BorgDog:I figured out my left sling plastic is broken, held together by a piece of clear tape on the bottom.. anybody have an extra old but not broken one lying about
I have your plastic. It has a very small warp to it that I can heat and fix. Otherwise it's perfect. If it goes perfectly flat how about $10 shipped?
IMG_5116 (resized).JPGIMG_5117 (resized).JPGCall Great Plains electronics. He can help you out just tell him what you need.
Quoted from Aniraf:Nvm on finding the caps, I found a kit right on pinside. I just bought that to keep it easy and avoid my complaining that Fry’s electronics has all but one of what I need.
Oh, beat me to it.
Quoted from hodgesm0:Could maybe provide your scans to CPR for them to produce?
He would be dead by then. 
Quoted from ss-pinball:Solenoid protection kit?
Quoted from CanadianPinball:Just picked up my third FP. Stab in the dark, anyone have a CPR playfield?
Sorry, they are making firepower hardtops when they start taking orders again though.
Quoted from crujones4life:I need 3 new stand up targets (minimum) for my Firepower. I am looking to replace the entire switch and not mess with drilling out rivets. Any drop in replacements available?
These are the switches you want. You just clip the resistor and rearrange the fiber stack, they can mount front or back.
They fit perfect. I replaced every one of mine couple of years ago and have still never had one single issue or malfunction. (knocks on wood)
Quoted from crujones4life:https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CT-4071-1R
Would this crimper work for the pins and sockets?
Spend a few dollars more and get the Sargent 1026ct or the 1028ct. Type in Sargent in his search box.
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Greensboro, NC
