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(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club

By wiredoug

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 3,832 posts
  • 318 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 hours ago by Billc479
  • Topic is favorited by 147 Pinsiders


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#3744 57 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Has anyone gotten the topper from CPR for this game? Just wondering how it looks on a machine. I like it but I’m on the fence about getting it.

I'm about to get this machine and I'd like to get one myself to finish it out. I assume I could add a little LED to back light it? Maybe find one that runs off a battery and can be tucked behind it.

#3746 56 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I decided to pull the trigger and buy it the other day, should be here in a few days. Ill post how it looks on the game.
I plan on running lights to it, probably wire through the vents in the back and tie into the GI.

Good deal. Post some pics and let me know how to tie into the "GI". I don't really know anything about working on Pinball machines, but I'm going to be getting into it soon. Any information on what to buy or how to do it would be helpful. I think the machine has been converted to LEDS so I'm not sure if that matters.

#3755 51 days ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

Definitely agree on the bulbs under the 6 standups being a little blinding. I went with flex bulbs instead to get them to light things up w/o shining directly back at the player. Overall, I went with more clear lens bulbs than frosted but it's a matter of preference.
I threw together a video as an overview of the LEDs I put in my Firepower.

How'd you do the start button like that? I think mine has just an arcade style switch. I'd love to install a flashing start button like that.

Also, does anyone know where I can find the "Fire" and "Power" plastics that cover the metal by the flippers? I just need those two, but I see entire plastic sets that have them. I just need those two for a reasonable price. Let me know.

#3757 50 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

FYI - those plastics were not installed originally. They are found as extras in the CPR plastics set.

Yeah I saw that some tables didn't have them so I was assuming it was an aftermarket thing. I'm not sure if this table I'm getting has them, but they aren't installed on it that's for sure. I see a guy on ebay that has 6 pieces from that set, but he's asking like $95 shipped...which is crazy for the small amount of plastics included. If anyone has those two and possibly the larger keychain I would be interested in buying it from them.

#3759 50 days ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

It's wired to the game over light in the backbox. Once you start a game it will go out. The other option is to put in a clear button like I did and install a socket inside. I think you can buy flashing single colour LEDs. Mine is a colour changing LED so it cycles on it's own.
You can see it here -

Interesting. That sounds like the way to go. Is there a kit to do that? One that would include the wiring and button? I'm sure I could wire it up, but I don't know exactly what to buy.

I've also been thinking it would be interesting to install a shaker motor that goes off when you lock all 3 balls. The tables lights go crazy and a vibrating would be pretty cool during that time.

#3766 44 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

I've got a LOT of plastics left over from my refurb, as well as some new plastic lane guides and the original plastic posts. If I put them up for sale as a set would anyone buy them?

If you have the two aftermarket plastics that cover the metal pieces near the flippers. I'd buy those.

#3768 40 days ago

I have a loose lockdown bar. Based on looking at it there are probably screws that are supposed to go into these holes to push down on a metal piece. That would hold it down tightly.

What size do I need? Hardware store trip or is it a special type thing I have to get online?

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#3770 40 days ago

Sweet, thanks man. The guy who had it chromed everything. He didn’t do rebuilds on pops or flippers though. I’m about to try my hand at it.

Getting it upstairs tomorrow and then the fun begins.

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#3771 38 days ago

Some more pics if you guys are interested. Got it upstairs and in place.

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1 week later
#3782 29 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I’m not one to buy a replacement board without trying to fix things first but after basically rebuilding the speech board and replacing almost every component suggested I still had problems. I eventually said F it and got this.

I just got the Speech and Sound combo board put in on mine and it's great. Really love these boards.
I had too many issues with the sound and speech so I just replaced the entire board. Make sure it's the speech/sound board before buying. If the onboard sound test doesn't play all the sounds, it's likely a problem on the sound or speech board(could also be on the cable that connects the 2).
If that works, but you don't hear them in game, check the driver board. Grounding the pins at 10J3(pins 2-5, and 7) on the soundboard should trigger voices.
To ground it, just touch one side of a wire to a ground, and then touch the other side to those pins on the board.

Mine was missing voices for Fire, Power, 1, and 2. It would say 3 where 2 should have been during the multi-ball kick outs.

Quoted from jdemarti:

..... will set me back over $150.

Roughly $166 total for the one I bought a week ago.

#3788 27 days ago

Does anyone have ideas for alternate toppers to put on a Firepower? I don't like the one basic one Marco Specialties sells.
Anything space would probably look pretty cool. Trying to stay at or under $100 if possible.

#3793 26 days ago
Quoted from jdemarti:

Thank you. At least I know now whatever the problem is, it is from the master display outwards. I'll give what you suggest a try.

I was told by a guy to also check the back of the MPU board. Connectors 1J3, 1J5, 1J6, and 1J7 all deal with the displays. He said often times you'll have cold solder joints causing a bad connection. My displays freak out sometimes and don't display things properly. Even straight up dropping out all together(ball counter specifically).It's mainly when I'm doing a 4 player game or if the machine has been on for a few hours(maybe the heat?). It works for the most part, but you'll see half lit segments or weird flickering on some parts of the numbers.

Idk, just an idea. I will probably pop mine out eventually and reflow if needed. I'm pretty sure it's not the displays on mine because they're from 2018 and have barely any use.

1 week later
#3811 13 days ago
Quoted from airplanequartet:

My firepower just started having a sound problem, the background sound doesn’t come on and it keeps making the tilt sound without a tilt, just tilt sound after tilt sound. It seems to be playing correctly otherwise. Any ideas on where to start?

I'd start simple by making sure the setting for background sounds is on and you don't have a stuck tilt switch or plumbob. Maybe some settings got wiped out for the background sounds? I know these sound like stupid suggestions, but you never know.

1 week later
#3815 6 days ago
Quoted from Clytor:

Hey everyone, my FP playfield is missing the entire trough ejector assembly. According to the Williams 1980 parts catalogue, the game uses the B-7472-5R and B-7472-8 ejector assemblies. I know it uses both of these on the saucers but does it use one of them for the trough too? If so, which one? I guess later games used the C-9638 for this purpose.
[quoted image]

I'm seeing this on my parts assembly break downs. B-7472-7 Runway Eject Unit Assembly. Here's a screenshot of the page that deals with that assembly. Hope that helps. I saw this the other day and didn't think to check my files.
I have all the documents and artwork for this machine saved to a flash drive. I can upload this if anyone needs it. It has everything from super high res cabinet art, to stencils, to decals, parts lists, manuals, breakdowns, ext. Most of it is from, but not all of it is easy to find on there. Some are buried in the site so it's easy to miss them.

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#3827 1 day ago

I’ll see if I can find the exact spot on the driver board that provides power to the left flipper. It should let you determine if there’s a board level component that’s bad.
Can you take a picture of the coil/diode in question? Just want to see if it’s right.

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