(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club

By wiredoug

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 4,689 posts
  • 396 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 hours ago by ChrisHibler
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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#285 9 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

Thanks! My problem is not with the lighting. The "F" lane switch and the middle POWER target do not registrar when hit. It sucks, because when it's malfunctioning it's impossible to light POWER. I think it's strange that these two switches would be connected in any way.

On my Firepower, I had the same issue. At the time the factory had assembled the leaf switches with one blade upside down (known problem w. Firepower), which wore thru the gold plating and made the switch intermittent. I bought new gold flashed contact rivets from Steve Young at PBR and installed them on the old blades. No more "F" problems.
Don C.

3 years later
#2698 5 years ago

Steve Young (PBR) has the gold flashed contact rivets. I unsolder the switch stack, remove the switch go tot he bench. Now you have a choice. Flip the switch blade over and clean, or grind off the upset (smaller) side of the rivet, remove the old contact and replace. Cushion the face of the contact (hardwood w/ a layer of duct tape) and peen the rivet shank with a hammer.

Don C

#2711 5 years ago
Quoted from erichill:

Has anyone tried tapping their Firepower transformer for 100V to increase coil strength? Clay describes it a bit here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-how-hard-to-hit-top-lock#post-578032
Helping a friend with his Firepower and I can’t for the life of me get the upper lock shot to stick with any consistency. Perfect shots hit the post below the saucer 9 times out of 10.
Game is freshly shopped, new pinball life flipper parts, cab switches freshly filed. MPU/driver board is a new Rottendog so flipper relay and headers are brand new. Rebuilt female connectors on the driver board, completely rebuilt power supply, wires are soldered directly to the 25V bridge lugs. EOS is adjusted so it breaks at late as possible. I even tried removing the spinner and gate and jumpering the EOS closed without any improvements in consistency. Playfield is level at the flippers and up top by the lock. Pitched at 6.5 degrees.
Has anyone tried tapping their game for 100V? Has long term reliability been good? Did you use a bridge to drop the GI voltage like clay described?
Thanks!

Did the flipper rebuild include new flipper base plates? Once I replaced them the shot to the saucer has plenty of power, just aim properly and you will be there. Replacing the base plates is the only way to replace the coil stops.

Don C.

6 months later
#2984 4 years ago

On the batteries, is there any green fuzz on the the batteries, their holder or nearby on the boards? Those look like carbon-zinc old school batteries, I can see rust, which is very typical on C-Zn batteries. Check that before sending out the board. No fuzz means no alkali corrosion.

Don C.

#2990 4 years ago
Quoted from the4horse:

There was a little green fuzz on the battery holder terminals. I was going to stick the boards in the dishwasher...is that something people still do to get rid of any residual gunk?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, but before the dishwasher I would remove the battery holder (use an off-board holder) and scrub the area around where the holder was with vinegar and a toothbrush. Be generous, scrub a large area or the whole board. Rinse with isopropyl alcohol. Repeat those steps a couple times. This is actually the most important part of the cleaning, as the vinegar (an acid) neutralizes the corrosion from the alkaline in the batteries. Check that the board is still working properly. I don't think the dishwasher is necessary unless the board is covered in crud, but it's your choice.

Before starting anything, read the many Pinside threads on battery corrosion (often called battery acid, it's actually an alkaline, but 'acid' may be a good search term).

Don C.

#2997 4 years ago
Quoted from the4horse:

Very helpful info, thanks Don.
At the moment when I switch the machine on, I just get static lights in the backbox and playfield.

At this point I will have to defer to the Pinsiders who are board experts.

Here is a thread on System 6: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6#post-581542

Can somebody point towards a diagnostic guide?

Don C.

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