(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club

By wiredoug

9 years ago


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  • 4,260 posts
  • 360 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 days ago by dzorbas
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There are 4,260 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 86.
#4201 3 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

.7 is the main (power) winding, 25 is the hold winding. sounds like your right coil is just running the hold winding.

Thank you for clearing that up. I will double check my readings again and swap out the coil.

#4202 3 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I have the red version and love them. I’m interest in what you mean about the vinyl. Can you show more about that?

You can also buy window tint at an auto parts store. I got this and it works OK. It’s maybe a little too dark but it’s better than it was.

https://www.autozone.com/sun-heat-protection/window-tint/p/gila-35-smoke-scratch-resistant-window-tint/458892_0_0

1 week later
#4203 3 months ago

What would you guys recommend for replacing the 6 center targets? I'm seeing about $15 each for the switch stack and target.
I really only need one, but I figured I'd do them all. They've been a source of constant annoyance. Having to readjust them and bend the backstop piece. Just a real pain in the backside.

Is $15 per the standard price on these? Are there any deals for all 6?

Also, is there any adjustment required after swapping them out? Or is it just desoldering them, remove, replace, resolder right?

#4204 3 months ago
Quoted from Teamhex:

What would you guys recommend for replacing the 6 center targets? I'm seeing about $15 each for the switch stack and target.
I really only need one, but I figured I'd do them all. They've been a source of constant annoyance. Having to readjust them and bend the backstop piece. Just a real pain in the backside.
Is $15 per the standard price on these? Are there any deals for all 6?
Also, is there any adjustment required after swapping them out? Or is it just desoldering them, remove, replace, resolder right?

While not exactly the same mounting style, these might work as cheaper replacements.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-round-stand-up-targets.html

#4205 3 months ago

Teamhex

You're not likely to find a deal on all six targets. However, if you splurge and replace them all - they will all be fresh (fewer backstop adjustments) and actually MATCH. It's frustrating when you have targets with two different pigments of red, or the fresh one looks so much cleaner than the old ones.

I'd recommend replacing all six and adding an inline molex plug on each side for easier serviceability down the road. You're already doing a bunch of desoldering/soldering - so consider upgrading them while you're at it!

#4206 3 months ago

Replace the horseshoe contacts, too. Troxel or Old School Bob, or search for Wms drop target horseshoe contact replacement. Well worth the time.

#4207 3 months ago
Quoted from Teamhex:

What would you guys recommend for replacing the 6 center targets? I'm seeing about $15 each for the switch stack and target.
I really only need one, but I figured I'd do them all. They've been a source of constant annoyance. Having to readjust them and bend the backstop piece. Just a real pain in the backside.
Is $15 per the standard price on these? Are there any deals for all 6?
Also, is there any adjustment required after swapping them out? Or is it just desoldering them, remove, replace, resolder right?

I agree, I would replace all six of them. If you replace one the color of the other ones will stick out.

#4208 3 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

While not exactly the same mounting style, these might work as cheaper replacements.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-round-stand-up-targets.html

I used these as replacements in my firepower and they worked great. And they cost $6.95 back in 2013 and nine years later they’re only a dollar more! Thanks Pinballlife!

#4209 3 months ago

Finally got Firepower in the basement, took some pics of the Wolfpac displays in blue with the tinted vinyl to cover up the segments. They really came out nice. Had to do some adjustments to the displays to raise them up. The ones on the right were low with the new back glass.

IMG_8767 (resized).JPGIMG_8768 (resized).JPG
#4210 3 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Finally got Firepower in the basement, took some pics of the Wolfpac displays in blue with the tinted vinyl to cover up the segments. They really came out nice. Had to do some adjustments to the displays to raise them up. The ones on the right were low with the new back glass.

I didn't think I'd like the blue in FP but they look pretty good! I have those in my Space Shuttle and just love how they look. I have Xpin orange in my FP and I want to switch them to Wolfpac red.

SS_displays (resized).jpg

Thanks for sharing.

#4211 3 months ago

Good day FirePower owners.
I have a problem with mine. I did start a post about it but feel this is a better place to move it.

I moved my pin downstairs re assembled it and played one game. It blew the solenoid fuse. I did the system test and each Solenoid test fine. I narrowed it down to the 4 Pop bumper. I replaced all diodes and verified wiring.

any idea greatly appreciated.

David

#4212 3 months ago

Kind of a long shot, but mine was blowing the solenoid fuse because the mpu board wasn't slotted into the metal ledge that is attached to the back of the box.

#4213 3 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Kind of a long shot, but mine was blowing the solenoid fuse because the mpu board wasn't slotted into the metal ledge that is attached to the back of the box.

I will check that.
Thanks

#4214 89 days ago

reposting this here please help if you can

went and picked a firepower as a project, playfield is trashed.
i made sure that a pf was on cpr still. and it was.
owner tells me, as i am buying it, that i will have to do a hardtop...
i say "no i am gonna buy a pf... (yes i should have kept my mouth shut) seller seems suprised by me saying i was swapping it.
I go home go to purchase on CPR (maybe 2 hours after handing the dude his money) and poof its sold.... crazy coincidence i suppose? what do you think? seller says "na man. i wouldnt do that."
let me know what you think and where i can find a PF. thanks

#4215 88 days ago

They go in and out of stock at CPR. Register to be notified on their site.

1 week later
#4216 81 days ago

Good day fellow Owners,

Im looking for some help. It seems im getting triple pulses to some of my solenoids, mainly 17-20. Because of this it blows the fuse. Would someone be willing to check there signal and share? I have 40v at the fuse. All diodes checked.
i can sometimes go three games without any problems.

Thanks in advance

#4217 81 days ago
Quoted from VP-Firepower:

Good day fellow Owners,
Im looking for some help. It seems im getting triple pulses to some of my solenoids, mainly 17-20. Because of this it blows the fuse. Would someone be willing to check there signal and share? I have 40v at the fuse. All diodes checked.
i can sometimes go three games without any problems.
Thanks in advance

Switches gapped too close?

#4218 81 days ago
Quoted from AVERY_C:

let me know what you think and where i can find a PF. thanks

As Schwaggs mentioned, put yourself on the CPR waitlist. With their new(ish) printing process, they do smaller runs of previous playfields more frequently. You'll just have to wait it out a bit until they do their next run.

1 week later
#4219 72 days ago

Got an update to my fuse blowing.

After testing as many thing i could i decided to meter out the 7402s. IC8 IC9. With a breadboard I triggered it's outputs one at a time. It worked as it should. I had ordered some new 7402 and when they came in I tested each pin and compared them. On the old ones the 'y' were internally connected. It was trying to turn on all the outputs with each trigger. Even though the other pops weren't engaging it was still pulling to much power.

on another note. I did the driver board upgrade. Changing to MOSFETs. well if I power the system on without IC8 or IC9 it kills the MOSFETs.

Thank you Firepower owner for all the good information.

3 weeks later
#4220 52 days ago

Question for anyone with the Firepower Deluxe version roms installed. Just bought one, and everything is great, except the sound when you play multiball. Sounds get garbled and all messed up. Clears up on the next ball. Only happens when getting multiball. Anyone else seen this? Just wondering if it's a software related problem?

#4221 51 days ago
Quoted from MVCO:

Question for anyone with the Firepower Deluxe version roms installed. Just bought one, and everything is great, except the sound when you play multiball. Sounds get garbled and all messed up. Clears up on the next ball. Only happens when getting multiball. Anyone else seen this? Just wondering if it's a software related problem?

What flavor of rom is this? The Oliver one with the missions? (Also on ipdb). Or some other variant?

#4222 50 days ago

Yes, it's the one with the missions.

1 week later
#4223 40 days ago

Today I was swapping some insert and backbox bulbs, testing each bulb along the way. When I was done, I put the balls back in, glass and lock bar back on, and powered the machine back up. It flashed on for a second and then lost power. It will not power up now. I've checked all fuses and nothing appears to be blown. Any ideas where to go next?

#4224 40 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Today I was swapping some insert and backbox bulbs, testing each bulb along the way. When I was done, I put the balls back in, glass and lock bar back on, and powered the machine back up. It flashed on for a second and then lost power. It will not power up now. I've checked all fuses and nothing appears to be blown. Any ideas where to go next?

Does the power supply have power or no power to the mpu?

#4225 40 days ago
Quoted from pyrotech:

Does the power supply have power or no power to the mpu?

There is no power at all. It has all new Kohout boards and there is no indication of power anywhere. I took a look at the power switch but didn't see anything. The outlet is fine, I plugged another machine into it. The transformer looked fine, couldn't find any wires disconnected anywhere. It was working perfectly until the last time I switched it on. I had been switching it off and on when swapping bulbs for about a half hour earlier.

#4226 40 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

There is no power at all. It has all new Kohout boards and there is no indication of power anywhere. I took a look at the power switch but didn't see anything. The outlet is fine, I plugged another machine into it. The transformer looked fine, couldn't find any wires disconnected anywhere. It was working perfectly until the last time I switched it on. I had been switching it off and on when swapping bulbs for about a half hour earlier.

I had issues with a Kohout board on my Gorgar. Can you test to see if the power supply is getting power or do you have another power supply you can plug in and see what happens?

#4227 40 days ago
Quoted from pyrotech:

I had issues with a Kohout board on my Gorgar. Can you test to see if the power supply is getting power or do you have another power supply you can plug in and see what happens?

The original boards came with the machine, I could hook that power supply up and see what happens. I have one I could pull from Road Kings as well, I think they are compatible.

#4228 40 days ago

Yes it will work. Swap out the power supply to see what happens.

#4229 39 days ago

The system 11 power supply is only compatible down to system 7 and I only have the original driver and mpu boards. I reached out to Kohout to see if there would be a way to tell if it's boards related. Wouldn't the leds be illuminated on the power supply if anything was getting through?

#4230 39 days ago

yes, the led would be on.

#4231 39 days ago

Check the cord where it connects inside the cabinet. Maybe you have a broken connection there.

#4232 39 days ago
Quoted from pyrotech:

Check the cord where it connects inside the cabinet. Maybe you have a broken connection there.

It looks fine to me, here is a picture.

I pulled, checked, replaced all fuses and then turned it back on. There was a brief flicker and then no power again.

20221018_155706 (resized).jpg
#4233 39 days ago

On the power supply board, disconnect all the output plugs, leaving only inputs J1 and J2 connected. Also, check the GI & logic power fuses in the backbox.

Check the cabinet fuses and the fuses on the power supply board, replace any that may be blown, and turn the game on.

If you DON'T have power on the PS board, then the problem is between the wall outlet and the PS board, or on the PS board.

If you DO have power on the PS board, check for all the correct voltages on the PS board. Next what I would do is turn the game off, and one by one, plug ONE output connector back into the PS board and then turn the game on again to see if you still have power. If a fuse blows after you plug a connector back in and turn the game on, then that will point you to the problem area based on which connector you attached that caused a fuse to blow.

http://firepowerpinball.com/downloads/BackboxWiring.pdf

#4234 39 days ago

Thank you so much for this road map tom. I will perform it in the morning and report back.

#4235 39 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Thank you so much for this road map tom. I will perform it in the morning and report back.

When you get to the point of plugging the output connectors back into the PS board one at a time, I'd start with 3J6 since that is the power to the CPU board to see if the game will boot. When turning on the game, watch the 2 LED's on the CPU board and observe their flash sequence.

* CPU LEDs come on and stay on with no flash: the CPU board isn't booting or is locked up.
* CPU LEDs flash once and then stays on: the CPU board booted/tried to boot but has a ROM or PIA problem.
* CPU LEDs flash once quickly then go out: the CPU board is probably working OK, but will need the displays attached to see if there is are any other issues.

If you get the CPU/driver boards to boot OK, then turn off the game and plug in connector 3J4 to see if your lamps come back on or a fuse blows. This could be the problem area since that is what you were working on when the issues started.

If that works OK, then turn off and plug in 3J5 and turn back on to see if you get your displays back.

Lastly, I'd turn off the game again and plug in the solenoid connector 3J3 and power it up again.

Let us know how it goes!

#4236 38 days ago

I unplugged all connectors on the psb except J1 and J2, turned back on, and nothing happened. I attached a picture in case someone sees something I'm not.

20221019_112338 (resized).jpg
#4237 38 days ago

do you have a voltmeter?

#4238 38 days ago
Quoted from pyrotech:

do you have a voltmeter?

I have a multimeter

#4239 38 days ago

Start at the wall, check the plug. Make sure the 3 plugs are in good shape not less or bent. After that turn it on and check under cabinet were power comes in and see if power is getting to that point. Next I would check the fuse with the multimeter to see if the fuses have some juice going thou them. It got to be something small.

#4240 38 days ago

If you aren't getting any juice to the game whatsoever, check the red MOV (metal Oxide Varistor) that's connected across the black/white wires on the AC line filter.

#4241 38 days ago

After I swapped the final three backbox leds to incandescents, I switched it on, there was a brief flicker and the leds under the fire and power inserts glowed for a few seconds. It did this a second time after I removed and tested all the fuses and removed all bulbs from the backbox. Now I get nothing when I switch it on but it makes me think I am getting power. The plug looks fine as well as the varistor.

#4242 38 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Now I get nothing when I switch it on but it makes me think I am getting power. The plug looks fine as well as the varistor.

Looks fine means nothing. Need to test voltages.

#4243 38 days ago

Time to get your DMM out and start probing for voltage...

With the game plugged into the wall outlet, put your DMM into AC mode and check voltages with a black lead on one point and red on the other per the attached photo. Doesn't matter which lead is on each point.

FP-power1 (resized).jpg

A-B voltage:
A-C voltage:
D-E voltage:

You should get around 120VAC for each of those.

Next, the red/white wires coming out of the line filter (D-E in photo) go to the blue/white connector that feeds the transformer in the back box in my photo. Disconnect the blue/white connectors and check the voltage between the red/white wires in the blue connector. Should still be around 120VAC.

Next step would be to check for the voltages coming out of your transformer into the J1/J2 connectors to your power supply after you reconnect the blue/white connectors.

In your photo, the input power LED's weren't on, but I'm not sure if you took that pic when the game was on or off. If you had power to your PS board, then those LED's should be on.

20221019_180555 (resized).jpg
#4244 38 days ago

I tested by switching my mm to DCV 20, putting the black lead on the ground strap, and touching the red lead to the solder joint where the power cord connects. It bounced around between .02-.06. I switched to AC 200 and it read 1.8. I then turned the machine off, unplugged it, and performed the same test. DC was .01 and AC was 0.

#4245 38 days ago
Quoted from tomservo:

A-B voltage:
A-C voltage:
D-E voltage:

120 for each of these.

#4246 38 days ago
Quoted from tomservo:

In your photo, the input power LED's weren't on, but I'm not sure if you took that pic when the game was on or off. If you had power to your PS board, then those LED's should be on.

The game was on when I took the pic, no LEDs are coming on.

#4247 38 days ago
Quoted from tomservo:

Next, the red/white wires coming out of the line filter (D-E in photo) go to the blue/white connector that feeds the transformer in the back box in my photo. Disconnect the blue/white connectors and check the voltage between the red/white wires in the blue connector. Should still be around 120VAC.

120 for this one as well.

#4248 38 days ago

Holy crap! It came back on after I reconnected the white and blue connectors that feed the transformer!

#4249 38 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Holy crap! It came back on after I reconnected the white and blue connectors that feed the transformer!

Nice! Probably should re-pin that connector, both the male & female sides. Congrats on finding the problem!

#4250 38 days ago

Thank you so much for walking me through it!

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