Have you cleaned the switches in the trough and kickouts? Maybe one isn't registering properly. Have your boards been serviced and the 40-pin interconnect replaced? That is often a problem in these machines. Also look for AMI branded PIA chips (the large 40-pin chips on the driver board as those are also known to fail.

Xtraball and AirWolfNH I would order the LED rings while you're ordering from pinball life. Also, thanks for orders so far, everything goes out tomorrow!

Anybody try out the clear play field protectors. What's your thoughts?

metal-mods I was thinking about the led rings. You think clear caps would be too bright and not show off the decals?

I have one on my fp and you don’t even know its there. The only thing that you see is the transition in the shooter lane from wood to the clear plastic.

AB953645-E955-40F5-A890-13562AF8DBFC (resized).jpeg

How hard was it to install?

It is pretty easy. I have taken it on and off a few times to clean under it. Pop caps, lane gates and inlane deviders To the flippers thats about it that needs to be removes to install

Xtraball

My problem with the red rings in the clear caps, is that it takes on a pinkish hue. (see first pic)

I did a couple pictures of the FIREPOWER Decal using Comet's red LED rings on red translucent caps (I'm out of the Pinball Life rings at the moment) The second picture in this group shows that there's a little bleed-through from the LEDs. So, as shown in the second picture, I added a non-metallic red decal on underside of cap to minimize the LED dots. I personally think the dots are cool, however if you guys want to add the filters, I'll make an option available in the shop to add them.

20200717_103328 (resized).jpg

20200717_102936 (resized).jpg

20200717_103022 (resized).jpg

Da-Shaker Since i keep interrupting your questions about playfield protectors, thought I'd throw in my 2 cents lol.

Pros: Protects the playfield, obviously lol. Creates a smooth surface over raised/sunken/cupped inserts. Makes ball move much faster.

Cons: This really isn't necessarily a bad thing, but game play is different- if you look at ball, you'll notice it's SLIDING and not exactly ROLLING most of the time. Like I said, not necessarily a bad thing, but it does seem like game play is different somehow.

I’d love to see those led’s rotating somehow! I see on Pinball Life’s site that those rings require a 555 socket. I have bayonets in my pops I believe.

That idea has been in back of my head for awhile, shhh! And totally forgot the LED rings only come in the wedge base- looks like you better add some of the wedge base sockets to your order Lol!

Oh no, you don’t understand. You see, all I have to do is THINK about modding a machine and the game goes haywire. I’ll leave the sockets as is, they’re working just fine. But I love the look of those rings. I’ll wait if you’ve got something in the works for rotating...

Lol! If you're not interested in changing out the lamp socket, Comet Pinball seems to have a couple different pieces that could easily create the transition you need from the socket type bulb to a wedge base using their "Matrix" system

I will look into that

Any chance you'd be interested in making the chrome decals that go onto the Laser War pop bumpers too?

I'll add it to the list! Always best if you hit me up on my thread for reference.

jacksonville.craigslist.org link

not mine just posting in case someone is looking for a back glass

My firepower is almost finished. Now to just get some new pop bumper caps! Then hook it back up and ensure all my soldering worked out!

I had a botched cabinet paint job so some retro refurb can decals were what the doctor ordered! Hardtop also installed, now for just a slight flipper adjustment as well.....

1D71D106-917D-4BB5-A8DC-4CB34FC7FA21 (resized).jpeg4D0E80F9-744E-4D86-BA7A-3B36B5F0EADF (resized).jpegB37920C4-1907-415E-94A0-091B5F9B287C (resized).jpeg

Now that I have the machine all wired up, I’m having some trouble starting a new game.

All the trough switches look like the dads are OK and switches are closed as shown in the photo below. Credit button has some wire splices but as far as I can tell all connections are made there and were working prior to the hardtop install.

Rotten dog MPU has the two LEDs the flash wants and remain unlit and game stays in attract mode.

I can’t seem to get a game in diagnostic mode either. What does mode not work without the game booting properly? Any help is appreciated thanks on advance while I continue to hunt down this issue.

D2899078-CD29-4883-AFB6-D9D7B52F3498 (resized).jpeg

Ignore that! Cleaning the switches is all it took. Now to figure out every adjustment I need to make. Pop bumpers look like I did something wrong as well with setting those up. Ughhhh!

Joining the club for the first time. Pretty good condition in my opinion. Has a new Rottendog MPU, but game won’t start up fully as it blows one of the fuses when you press start. Haven’t done any troubleshooting yet but hoping to look at it tomorrow.

2BEC6AA2-3C03-4FBF-9F17-20604587227B (resized).jpeg

13FCEAF1-93F6-4E76-B075-B2C3B26676AE (resized).png

5E7B82B2-5610-4448-A91B-EEE3841C5059 (resized).png

9E6D29E3-3D01-4F8B-BD7B-526B39AECC84 (resized).jpeg

Looks great! Play the heck out of it before you decide to do anything major! The projects can get out of hand quickly. Looks like a new set of rubbers and a bit of research and this thing will be rocking! So jealous of that coin door skin. The plastics on this machine look almost brand new.

Needs a shop job and rubbers for sure. First I gotta track down the fuse that keeps blowing before I can begin to play, haha. Setting it up later tonight. Oh yea, no plastics are broken.

So finally had time to dive into the game this afternoon. I've narrowed the issue down to the solenoid fuse is blowing when the game powers on. I haven't quite figured out which solenoid yet, although I did figure out it traces back to the wire controlling 2J12 on the Rottendog driver board.

Further troubleshooting appears to link the pop bumpers as the culprit since the colored wires on 2J12 seem to correspond to the pops.

Hey guys! I am relatively new to the club, but I’m glad to be here. I’ve wanted a FP for quite a while. The middle target in the bottom right three bank isn’t working and I’ve traced it back to some wires that need resoldered. Could someone please post a picture of the proper wiring for these three targets?

Thanks!

Didn't know what right bank you needed so I did both

15991032154866498842431536562645 (resized).jpg

15991035290431194429746977415888 (resized).jpg

There is another Firepower that has been converted to the original intended drop targets. I was fortunate to have an early run machine with the correct plastics, 50point switches already in it, which meant the wiring for the reset coils and switch continuity trigger was already in the harness. Got two drop target banks, rebuilt and cleaned them, added molex connectors while wiring them for future ease of maintenance on them and it works flawless! Just waiting on decals and it’s done! Love it this way! Also added the chrome pop bumper cap decals on two yellow, two red caps, the Firepower coin door inserts and a WPC style start button.

BAC27336-487B-47C6-AFDF-6DD9043AC23D (resized).jpeg05511C0D-660E-4F81-BAD8-EECE4BB2131B (resized).jpegA558DD9B-ED8B-43EA-A016-DBA62958C52E (resized).jpegAECFD627-A831-4F9B-B8C6-AE6ECDD3032A (resized).jpegF3911112-CCC7-4FF6-BCDB-9110EEF66743 (resized).jpeg

Exactly what I needed.

Much appreciated!

You guys see Firepower on the new episode of Archer?

AEC647D1-3548-4421-A891-B5CA1C9BC70E (resized).jpeg

AFA6D33C-D346-4C4C-AC6B-0C98256E689E (resized).jpeg

Congratulations guys. Look incredible.

Hello all,
Got a question regarding the right flipper.
I recently replaced the flipper with a Marco replacement.
The old one was overheating, and the new as well. The flipper will stick in the up position after a few games while cradling the ball.
Most comments I’ve found say, the the EOS switch.
From these photos does it appear to be wired correctly? Is there something blatantly wrong I’m missing?
Thanks for any advise.

5231A83B-0974-4810-9D50-9AB00E7CB25D (resized).jpeg

98F5ECB2-DE15-402D-99C6-677DEA26C818 (resized).jpeg

The wiring looks right.

Push the plunger into the coil until it hits the coil stop. Do not push on the flipper bat or link, push on the silver plunger itself. Make sure the EOS is gapped 1/16" to 1/8". Alternatively, you can start a game, hit the cabinet flipper switch and observe the EOS is opening when the flipper is held.

You need to push on the plunger itself or you will get an inaccurate EOS adjustment because of the slop in the links.

It appears to be working properly.
I turned the game on and it’s opening as it should.

D639B15C-15CA-47CF-949C-3C0039CEE8B5 (resized).jpeg

Probably dosen't matter but the kit I got from Steve comes with a, what I believe to be a capacitor. Dont look at my solder work. I was young then.

16011586192026147985171594015260 (resized).jpg

Ok,ok, maybe drunk.

Has anyone gotten the topper from CPR for this game? Just wondering how it looks on a machine. I like it but I’m on the fence about getting it.

That does look good.

Measure the resistance of that coil and compare it to your original coil. Measure between the outside terminals with the EOS closed and again with it open. Game off of course.

The capacitor is for noise suppression and to help the EOS contact last a bit longer.

For those who have done the conversion to drop targets, is it really worth the extra routing work for a 10 point target?

They are worth 50 actually. Points wise, no, if you have to do some cutting on your playfield, no. So I guess my answer is No, lol. I was lucky and have an early Firepower with the switches already installed and wired. My wires were also present for the coil resets and drop target all down switches. All neatly tucked into the existing wire bundles under the playfield with black tape on the cut ends neatly. Love the conversion, such a better game with drops.

Im glad you brought this up, I have been really wanting to do the conversion however i dont have the switch notch and I just clear coated my playfield as part of my resto. Figures I would have a change of heart after playing it and now i want drops.
Where is everyone getting the parts?
I see the circuit boards on marcos but are the targets and rest of the mechs from another game?

Im afraid Im going to really screw up the playfield with getting the notches cut out, after the fact, theres gotta be another way to get a switch there...

You can find complete target banks on ebay every now & then & they go pretty cheap really - quite often with red targets, Gorgar banks are ideal. Red targets can be bought from Marco. You can also cut down a 5 or 4 bank target as well is you can't find 3 banks. I cut down a 5 bank & you wouldn't be able to tell the difference.

It's going to be just as much fun without the 50 point switches if you are not confident to do it & also it can be converted back to stand ups without the cut-outs if you ever wanted to.

I love it with the drops!

I just put "wanted" ads up on Pinside, RGP, and Mr. Pinball. It didn't take too long to get people reaching out with some for sale.

I'm about to get this machine and I'd like to get one myself to finish it out. I assume I could add a little LED to back light it? Maybe find one that runs off a battery and can be tucked behind it.

I decided to pull the trigger and buy it the other day, should be here in a few days. Ill post how it looks on the game.
I plan on running lights to it, probably wire through the vents in the back and tie into the GI.

Good deal. Post some pics and let me know how to tie into the "GI". I don't really know anything about working on Pinball machines, but I'm going to be getting into it soon. Any information on what to buy or how to do it would be helpful. I think the machine has been converted to LEDS so I'm not sure if that matters.

I guess I haven't kept up with what CPR is up to...but I assumed the Topper being sold was the same as the one from what I thought was their earlier run of plastics (or was it the original Williams?) I think I actually prefer the 80s style repeat of the side cabinet art... I wonder why they went with a new style art on the current topper.

Finally done. Three years of staring at this thing and it's done. New plastics and hardtop. Really turned out good except... EXCEPT for the fact that every playfield leaf switch was made backwards. Tearing those damn things apart and reworking them is excruciating. I kept the cabinet and backglass original.

20170713_023012690_iOS (resized).jpg

PXL_20201003_033525026 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201003_033533394 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201003_033552764 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201003_033603673 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201003_033611369 (resized).jpg

Looks great! It was worth it.

Looks great! On the leaf switches, are you meaning the original switches were stacked wrong or wired wrong? Just asking because I had an issue with my trough switches acting up. I put in new ones from Marco and the problem eventually resurfaced. The switches would make physical contact, but apparently not good enough for electrical conductivity. The problem is occasional, but annoying nonetheless. So last night I was looking at the switch stacks in the trough and noticed that the leaf spring in the stack was in front of the contact leaf. I rebuilt the stack to have the spring behind the leaf to try to provide a little more contact pressure. So far, it seems to have worked. I only tried this on one switch, the one that was giving me more fits, but I might redo the other trough switches that I had replaced previously. Anyone else experience this or am I just living under a rock. BTW, I glanced at other, original leaf switches in the game and I don't see the leaf spring behind the leaf contact so... idunno...

Btw, here’s a pic. The upper switch is the one I reworked, moving the leaf spring behind the contact leaf. The lower switch is the unaltered one.

B1C8048B-2291-4D42-A879-3F6B3B29685E (resized).jpeg