Anyone know what would cause the fire again light to come, and stay on during play. I didn’t get an extra ball, and when it drains it still counts as a lost ball..
(Topic ID: 70775)
Linked Games
Firepower
Williams, 1980-
Firepower II
Williams, 1983
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Grass Valley, CA
Quoted from topkat:Anyone know what would cause the fire again light to come, and stay on during play. I didn’t get an extra ball, and when it drains it still counts as a lost ball..
Bad diode or maybe the wire leg is pinched against the socket.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Bad diode or maybe the wire leg is pinched against the socket.
Thanks. So you think it would be related to the Actual socket vs a problem with the boardS or Switch matrix signaling the light to turn on?
Quoted from topkat:Thanks. So you think it would be related to the Actual socket vs a problem with the boardS or Switch matrix signaling the light to turn on?
I'm no expert, but if it was the board or matrix, I would think you would see more than 1 light locked on, unless it was the last in that column. It's easier to check everything that has to do with the socket before messing with the board.
Sometimes the legs of the socket are bent and touching the socket itself. Especially that one, because people rest the playfield onto the cabinet and bends the socket or pinches the wire. Also, diodes are a dime a dozen and easy to replace or you can check it with an Multi-meter. I'd replace the diode or at least make sure it's attached and a leg didn't come off of the socket.
I'm not sure if this is just a coincidence but when I was messing with some wires with a power on (dumb move)... the GI fuse went out. Wires & fuse were replaced.
Now... on 2 of the displays... the same parts of the segments are missing. Any ideas? Thanks
20200608_115708 (resized).jpgQuoted from scampcamp:I'm not sure if this is just a coincidence but when I was messing with some wires with a power on (dumb move)... the GI fuse went out. Wires & fuse were replaced.
Now... on 2 of the displays... the same parts of the segments are missing. Any ideas? Thanks
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If you are lucky, R12 - a 10k resistor in the row of resistors on the upper right part of the master display board will be burned up.
If you are not lucky, one of the transistors in IC10 ( 7180) has died.
Quoted from scampcamp:I'm not sure if this is just a coincidence but when I was messing with some wires with a power on (dumb move)... the GI fuse went out. Wires & fuse were replaced.
Now... on 2 of the displays... the same parts of the segments are missing. Any ideas? Thanks
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I’ve got the samething going on too. The bottom part of my score display and player one is out. How do you test a resistor to see if it’s good or bad?
7D5F6154-E65D-433B-9CA8-EF25D29BBD8C (resized).jpegA733BC88-CC8B-49B6-A564-7277A517AAEE (resized).jpegQuoted from pacman11:My right flipper lane change isn’t working. I found these two wires under playfield that came off. Where do these go? Thanks!
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Those go to your lane change switch. Of which, it appears you do not have one installed.
2F4F0CC2-6DD2-46DD-96BB-C002B6914A04 (resized).jpegI've sourced these new nylon spacers for the under the PF wire harness clips. I'm linking my thread here for any FP owners who may need these.
I don't see them available at the usually pinball suspects and running around big box stores and hardware stores for any quantity may be a lost effort.
Also, these are high quality.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nylon-spaces-for-under-pf-wire-harness-early-wms-ss
Do you put a spring on the flipper plunger? If so... which end does the wider side go?
Also... do you put the capacitor on the flipper assembly?
Quoted from scampcamp:Do you put a spring on the flipper plunger? If so... which end does the wider side go?
Also... do you put the capacitor on the flipper assembly?
No sir. I use the updated WMS spring and bracket
For you, if you have the spring for plunger set up. The wide end goes to coil.
No capacitor on the flipper assembly. However, that is not the setup for the slings or pops
Quoted from keith20mm:Pawing through my Firepower parts I came across a baggie with four pop bumper caps.
Three of these, "normal", are as in the right side of the photo, the odd one is on the left.
Do any of you know the history on this all red, partly upside down, little freak of nature?
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That is from a different supply house for Williams.
Williams would contact different companies to supply parts...
some where very good, others not so good.
Quoted from pacman11:I’ve got the samething going on too. The bottom part of my score display and player one is out. How do you test a resistor to see if it’s good or bad?
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These 2 need to be replaced. 10k 1/2 watt
a0fbee1c0dfac27bd1b70ba56f1d1653ff9a7fd7 (resized).jpegQuoted from Schwaggs:These 2 need to be replaced. 10k 1/2 watt
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Thanks yeah I noticed that too.. 1/2watt resistor.
https://resistorcolorcodecalc.com/
white-brown-gold-gold=91 ohm
You used to be able to tell from the physical size of the resistor what wattage but not so much anymore. If they are the same size are your burned originals, they will be fine though, just don't go smaller unless you know for sure they are 1/2 watt.
I don't think the circuit calls for 91 ohm there though, I don't have a legible set of schematics handy for that boardset so you'll have to double check the correct value. The gold/silver bands never are the start of the resistor calc which helps you ID what value they actually are.
Quoted from pacman11:Replaced the resistor and my numbers are back now. Thanks!
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Something doesn't look right there. Are you sure you used 10K resistors? Those segments are much brighter than the rest which probably means you used something less than 10K. Running them that bright will burn those segments out, ruining the displays.
Quoted from pacman11:Replaced the resistor and my numbers are back now. Thanks!
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PM me your address. I have extra resistors from when I rebuilt my display. I’ll drop these in the mail for you today.
image (resized).jpgI have a big problem... I installed 555 sockets in the pop bumpers. (Wires were connected the way the original sockets were)throughout the game.
Everything worked fine before the 555 pop bumper sockets & leds were put in.
At 1st.. it was fine. I then noticed a few controlled leds were not working... most leds turned off in backbox.... then I saw smoke from under playfield.... not sure where from.... but near pop bumpers.
Could this be what Vid1900 was talking about when he mentioned things can go bad if polarities are wrong etc?
Any info appreciated?
Quoted from scampcamp:I have a big problem... I installed 555 sockets in the pop bumpers. (Wires were connected the way the original sockets were)throughout the game.
Everything worked fine before the 555 pop bumper sockets & leds were put in.
At 1st.. it was fine. I then noticed a few controlled leds were not working... most leds turned off in backbox.... then I saw smoke from under playfield.... not sure where from.... but near pop bumpers.
Could this be what Vid1900 was talking about when he mentioned things can go bad if polarities are wrong etc?
Any info appreciated?
Yikes, I have no idea, but I'd check your back box and bridge rectifiers.
Quoted from CanadianPinball:Lower plug. 3 red, 2 blue and 2 black
http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/PowerBoard.pdf
Not my issue, but you badass.
Quoted from scampcamp:I have a big problem... I installed 555 sockets in the pop bumpers. (Wires were connected the way the original sockets were)throughout the game.
Everything worked fine before the 555 pop bumper sockets & leds were put in.
At 1st.. it was fine. I then noticed a few controlled leds were not working... most leds turned off in backbox.... then I saw smoke from under playfield.... not sure where from.... but near pop bumpers.
Could this be what Vid1900 was talking about when he mentioned things can go bad if polarities are wrong etc?
Any info appreciated?
Are your bridge rectifiers fused or do you have a Bridges Board? If not it a must mod. incognito bridgeboards are the best...
Quoted from Gorgar666:Are your bridge rectifiers fused or do you have a Bridges Board? If not it a must mod. incognito bridgeboards are the best...
I am pretty sure it's going to be a short sonewhere on the red blue wire.. we'll see.
In the sound board parts list for capacitors in the manual... 2 of them have choices.
800mfd 16v or 1,000mfd 15v
500mfd 15v or 470mfd 25v
Is there a better choice?
Hey guys, having an issue with my right flipper, low power and does not hold very well, any weight (i.e. the ball) on the flipper will cause it to drop and start vibrating/popping. I have checked the switch and seems to be functional and adjusted correctly. Could it be a bad coil (hold winding)? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Left flipper works perfectly.
Quoted from CanadianPinball:Lower plug. 3 red, 2 blue and 2 black
http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/PowerBoard.pdf
Thanks man!
Quoted from scampcamp:In the sound board parts list for capacitors in the manual... 2 of them have choices.
800mfd 16v or 1,000mfd 15v
500mfd 15v or 470mfd 25v
Is there a better choice?
Yes, the value you can buy today. 
470uf and 1000uf are probably the only ones you will find today.
Quoted from hodgesm0:Hey guys, having an issue with my right flipper, low power and does not hold very well, any weight (i.e. the ball) on the flipper will cause it to drop and start vibrating/popping. I have checked the switch and seems to be functional and adjusted correctly. Could it be a bad coil (hold winding)? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Left flipper works perfectly.
Could be a dirty or poorly adjusted EOS switch. If it isn't new, I would replace it. If that looks new, I would try a new coil next.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Could be a dirty or poorly adjusted EOS switch. If it isn't new, I would replace it. If that looks new, I would try a new coil next.
The EOS looks new, and I made sure it was adjusted correctly, I have a new coil on order, we’ll see if that does the trick. Thanks
Quoted from Gorgar666:Extremely worn coil sleeve and hardware?? Post pics of everything.
Will grab a pic tomorrow, just installed a flipper rebuild kit; new sleeve, plunger/HW, and spring.
Quoted from hodgesm0:Will grab a pic tomorrow, just installed a flipper rebuild kit; new sleeve, plunger/HW, and spring.
Make sure your plunger reaches the coil stop.
Quoted from hodgesm0:I have an almost complete set of slightly sun faded plastics if anyone is in need of one. Let me know the one you need and I’ll let you know if I have it.
I’m looking for the top left arch if it isn’t cracked or faded too bad to stand out from the rest in a set of originals.
Quoted from mrm_4:I’m looking for the top left arch if it isn’t cracked or faded too bad to stand out from the rest in a set of originals.
Sorry, don’t have that one
Quoted from mrm_4:I’m looking for the top left arch if it isn’t cracked or faded too bad to stand out from the rest in a set of originals.
I thought those came cracked from the factory...
Here's my extra, it's got a crack and missing chunk near the bottom screw hole. Let me know if interested.
IMG_20200619_214728 (resized).jpgQuoted from kciaccio:Anybody have suggestions on where to get a back glass? Mine shattered this morning...
I bought 1 from Mayfair a few weeks ago.
Very happy with it.
20200520_171539 (resized).jpgQuoted from scampcamp:I bought 1 from Mayfair a few weeks ago.
Very happy with it.[quoted image]
Thanks. I sent them an e-mail.
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