Pickering, ON
Quoted from scampcamp:Has anyone had good luck with Firepower spinner decals? If so... where did you buy yours?
Thanks
Here you go...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-firepower-club/page/7#post-2439374
(Topic ID: 70775)
Linked Games
Firepower
Williams, 1980-
Firepower II
Williams, 1983
Topic Gallery
Grass Valley, CA
Quoted from scampcamp:When you install a playfield protector... is it best to remove the playfield wax?
I’ve never used a play field protector, but I’d leave the wax for added protection and to make the game keep its shine.
Quoted from scampcamp:When you install a playfield protector... is it best to remove the playfield wax?
I have a playfield protector on my firepower because the inserts are cupped and raised. No need to strip anything. Just clean the playfield and lay it over the top. Works great for uneven inserts.
I waxed mine before placing the protector. I wanted the playfield to look as good as possible. I also wax the playfield protector.
Quoted from scampcamp:Does the left kickout coil have an "A" or "B" coil sleeve?[quoted image][quoted image]
Mine has an A sleeve, but I'm not sure what is supposed to be in it. I cleaned the kick out and added a new sleeve, but every time it kicks out the ball the power is very random. I think it's because the end of the kickout arm sits in the coil very loose. I might change the coil sleeve to a longer one or utilize your B sleeve.
Thanks... I've heard/read that the B style sometimes go in kickouts but the regular A was in there & now the 2 of you agreed.
I'm NOT complaining staff have been far less lately etc because of covid-19 but I find it very interesting that I ordered parts on Tues 4-7 from both Pinball Life & Playfield Protectors. Pinball Life is about 600 miles away..... Pinball Protectors is about 5,000 miles away.
The protector arrived yesterday 4-10 & the Pinball Life order tracking says it will be here Wed 4-15.
20200411_151044 (resized).jpg
Quoted from scampcamp:I'm NOT complaining staff have been far less lately etc because of covid-19 but I find it very interesting that I ordered parts on Tues 4-7 from both Pinball Life & Playfield Protectors. Pinball Life is about 600 miles away..... Pinball Protectors is about 5,000 miles away.
The protector arrived yesterday 4-10 & the Pinball Life order tracking says it will be here Wed 4-15.
[quoted image]
I've had 2 orders and Pinball Life has been taking about 7 business days lately. No complaint, just info. Not bad considering the circumstances.
Quoted from scampcamp:Does the left kickout coil have an "A" or "B" coil sleeve?
Are you trying to say left kick back?
If so, then the "B" style coil sleeve is used.
If you are saying the left saucer kickout coil... (middle left playfield).
Then, it is the "A" coil sleeve.
Oh ok.... thanks. Yes... the lower left kick back.
The A style was in it & I had a new same style replacement. What changes in its performance if i leave the wrong 1 in?
Quoted from scampcamp:What changes in its performance if i leave the wrong 1 in?
It depends on how the coil sleeve is mounted...
Lose coil mounting on through hole plunger solenoids
causes both metal parts to shear each other.
The plunger can "cut" the mounting bracket...
etc,etc,etc.
Quoted from mrm_4:Anyone know where to find these little red button caps? I need 2 for my Firepower.[quoted image]
I think you have to purchase the entire assembly. However, I bet the tiny Super Band Mini Post bands would work, with a little super glue.
https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-super-bands-transparent-mini-post-rubbers.html
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I think you have to purchase the entire assembly. However, I bet the tiny Super Band Mini Post bands would work, with a little super glue.
https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-super-bands-transparent-mini-post-rubbers.html
I’m going to hold out in hopes that someone might have a few to part with before I get creative but I like that idea!
Quoted from mrm_4:Anyone know where to find these little red button caps? I need 2 for my Firepower.[quoted image]
Try Newark...
I do not know if they would work but three color to choose from.
Quoted from Billc479:It might be easier to buy a new switch and rob the nut from it.
I don’t recall seeing just the nut for sale.
Not for $18.99. Maybe someone has one sitting around
Quoted from Gnatty:Not for $18.99. Maybe someone has one sitting around
Just go to Lowes, Home Depot or any auto parts store you can buy a toggle switch for $3.00 - $4.00.
Quoted from kuelman:Just go to Lowes, Home Depot or any auto parts store you can buy a toggle switch for $3.00 - $4.00.
Same at E-Bay...
I was repinning a connector for IJ4 and noticed on the RottenDog combo board that the far left pin is missing. Can someone confirm this is normal?
Wiring diagram shows that pin being used but it seems to be missing from the combo board
6532BAF2-4122-4272-B647-A3B45F05A706 (resized).jpeg90C5529D-2F0D-4BA5-B9B2-9486EF00BCA6 (resized).png1J4 pin 1 should be cut... or not
1J4 pin 1 should have a jumper on back side
1J4 pin 1 to 1J3 pin 1
1J4 pin 2 gnd
1J4 pin 3 input to ic5 ca1 interrupt
1J4 pin 4 input to ic5 cb1 interrupt
---------------------------------------
1J3 pin 1 memory protect input.
Quoted from 2Fun:I have a green/brown wire that has been cut in my FP coin door as well as a white/yellow wire. Does anyone know where these are supposed to go?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Check page 24 of the schematics (can be found on IPDB).
Green - Brown is column 1 of the switch matrix and connects to the 3 coin chutes, reset and slam tilt switches.
White - Yellow is row 4 of the switch matrix and connects to the diode side of the right coin chute.
Quoted from scampcamp:The playfield near the left sling needed some touch-up. Thought to ask stepdaughter if she'd be interested since she liked to do art projects.
VERY happy how it turned out.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks awesome!
Thanks! The white/yellow was actually white/violet. I messed that up. I'm a little hesitant hooking these back up. Previous owner must of had a reason to cut them.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Check page 24 of the schematics (can be found on IPDB).
Green - Brown is column 1 of the switch matrix and connects to the 3 coin chutes, reset and slam tilt switches.
White - Yellow is row 4 of the switch matrix and connects to the diode side of the right coin chute.
Quoted from 2Fun:Thanks! The white/yellow was actually white/violet. I messed that up. I'm a little hesitant hooking these back up. Previous owner must of had a reason to cut them.
White violet goes to the slam tilt switch. I can't tell from your pictures but is the slam tilt switch on the door? Maybe they cut it out when they removed the switch for some reason.
You don't really need to hook them up unless you want to put the game on location somewhere.
Quoted from airplanequartet:Should I try to replace the socket?
Have you replaced the batteries or added NVRam? Is there corrosion on the battery holder, or are the batteries loose if its still on the board?
I believe there is also a diode on the mpu that can cause the battery voltage to not get to the rest of the board correct? Maybe someone else can explain that in more detail than I can.
For the guys who installed a playfield protector... did you remove the wire guides or cut a slot in the protector for them?
If you continuously are getting the audit mode 1497 code, your ram isn't holding its checksum byte for some reason. When it boots up with the audit code there, the os rom has cleared all the nvram and has reset it back to factory settings.
Cycling the power fast enough to avoid the newly-loaded checksum clearing is what's happening - but it means that your battery power isn't getting properly to the ram.
Quoted from airplanequartet:I replaced the 5101 and get the same error...[quoted image]
Did you replace it with NVRAM or an actual replacement 5101 RAM chip?
If its an actual RAM chip, with the game off, measure the voltage at pin 22 to ground. It should be 4.2 -4.3 volts (battery pack less the voltage drop of the blocking diode). If you don't have voltage, trace back to the battery pack and see where the break is (could be the blocking diode or the battery pack itself).
If you have good voltage on pin 22, you can try replacing the socket.
If you don't want to mess with potentially bad 5101 or battery voltage problems, get an NVRAM. I've had perfect luck with Andrew's modules. Plus he is a great guy!
https://nvram.weebly.com/
Quoted from Schwaggs:5101 RAM chip
Can be flaky... should test in known good game.
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:I removed the wire guides before putting the playfield protector on.
Thanks... I used a small nail to tap them up from underneath. It was very easy.
The right kickout plastic needed to be loosened to get at 1 of the holes.
Quoted from scampcamp:For the guys who installed a playfield protector... did you remove the wire guides or cut a slot in the protector for them?
Removed the wire guides.
Im looking at the schematics and I'm not able to locate the values of the caps and resistors on the pop bumpers and slings switches. I'm going to replace them all. Anyone know off hand what they are?
Also just to help me know for the future where on the schematics are these located?
Quoted from slochar:22 uF and 100 ohm resistor
I don't think it's on the schematics anywhere though
Thanks!
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks!
Quoted from slochar:22 uF and 100 ohm resistor
I don't think it's on the schematics anywhere though
Manual pg.25
Quoted from mrm_4:Im looking at the schematics and I'm not able to locate the values of the caps and resistors on the pop bumpers and slings switches. I'm going to replace them all. Anyone know off hand what they are?
Also just to help me know for the future where on the schematics are these located?
22uf 10V (higher voltage rating is fine). Pay attention to the polarity of the cap as you install it, you don't want to install it backwards.
Quoted from Schwaggs:22uf 10V (higher voltage rating is fine). Pay attention to the polarity of the cap as you install it, you don't want to install it backwards.
I did a lot of reading on this thread and found mention of 22uf 50v so that’s what I was gong to order.
Also I’m assuming the resistor is 1/2 watt?
Thanks for clarifying
Quoted from mrm_4:Also I’m assuming the resistor is 1/2 watt?
1/4 watt, common value.
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