Cedar Hill, MO
Quoted from Aniraf:$400? That never happens for me.
I've gotten lucky a few times...$400 Party Zone, $500 Bride of Pinbot, $165 Kings and Queens...
(Topic ID: 70775)
Linked Games
Firepower
Williams, 1980-
Firepower II
Williams, 1983
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Quoted from crujones4life:In like Flynn! What length legs is this game supposed to have? Anybody paint them another color?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
28.5" and originals are smooth chrome, no ribs. They look just fine with the ribbed legs too, though (and they're stronger.)
Richard
Quoted from someotherguy:28.5" and originals are smooth chrome, no ribs. They look just fine with the ribbed legs too, though (and they're stronger.)
Richard
Thank you!
Pickering, ON
Quoted from AdjustFailure:Hello - my original Firepower back glass looks good with the back lighting off, but when powered up and lit, it it is crackly and splitting with gaps all over.
I have done some touching up with acrylic paints but it still looks kind of nasty when lit up.
Rather than try further restoring, I wondered what advice or experiences on best source for a (mirrored) Firepower back glass replacement/reproduction?
You have a couple of options. Mayfair Amusements in New York, Planetary Pinball was selling them but looks like they're out of stock again. I don't know if CPR ever did them or might do them.
It won't be cheap. I got mine from Mayfair a couple of years ago. After exchange and stuff, it was almost $500 CDN. I had a friend pick it up at the Allentown pinball show. It was cheaper than shipping and much safer.
Quoted from Aniraf:$400? That never happens for me.
$400 for the pair? Ridiculous! Great deal!
As for the legs, I've got black ones on mine. They look good.
Check this thread for interesting stuff... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-restoration-it-has-begun/page/8#post-4855135
Quoted from dzorbas:$400 for the pair? Ridiculous! Great deal!
As for the legs, I've got black ones on mine. They look good.
Check this thread for interesting stuff... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-restoration-it-has-begun/page/8#post-4855135
Black looks great!
Quoted from tominator:Upon inspection I noticed that I am missing the transistor by J9 driver 11 (Q35).
Could this be why the sound is weird?
[quoted image]
Yes Q35 controls solenoid 11 and it’s sound
7A6F37B6-92A4-4B9F-A1CE-41B042B94293 (resized).jpegQuoted from joew575:Yes Q35 controls solenoid 11 and it’s sound [quoted image]
Ok cool. That’s what I thought.
I guess I need to find that part, but I am leary about taking the boards out to install it. Mostly because of the 40 pin connection. I don’t suppose I could solder the part onto the board without removing the boards could I?
Quoted from dzorbas:You have a couple of options. Mayfair Amusements in New York, Planetary Pinball was selling them but looks like they're out of stock again. I don't know if CPR ever did them or might do them.
It won't be cheap. I got mine from Mayfair a couple of years ago. After exchange and stuff, it was almost $500 CDN. I had a friend pick it up at the Allentown pinball show. It was cheaper than shipping and much safer.
Marcos has them in stock, but I don’t know who made them so I am unsure of the quality.
Quoted from tominator:k cool. That’s what I thought.
I guess I need to find that part, but I am leary about taking the boards out to install it. Mostly because of the 40 pin connection. I don’t suppose I could solder the part onto the board without removing the boards could I?
You will need to remove the board to solder in the transistor. I don't know of any way to solder the back side of the board from the top. With the boards out, it may be a good time to replace/reflow the 40 pin connector anyhow.
Turned on my FP today for the first time in awhile, I noticed I have some crackling in the speech. Is this a known issue on these Sys6s? It almost sounds like when you accidentally drop a screw or nut into the speaker housing. I guess I will try turning the speech board's pot back and forth to see if it's some kind of oxidation.
Quoted from catboxer:Turned on my FP today for the first time in awhile, I noticed I have some crackling in the speech. Is this a known issue on these Sys6s? It almost sounds like when you accidentally drop a screw or nut into the speaker housing. I guess I will try turning the speech board's pot back and forth to see if it's some kind of oxidation.
Try the speech board balance pot, the volume control pot in the lower cabinet, and reseating the volume control cable on the sound board (4 pin with the odd looking wire)
Hilariously enough, when I unbolted the speaker and turned it upside down a bakelite switch stack spacer fell out of it. D’oh! Guess I called it.
Quoted from catboxer:One more question while I’m under the hood, does anyone know where these standoffs go? Had them out since a PF swap years ago.
[quoted image]
I think those are used on some of the harness loop clamps to stand them up off the back of the playfield.
Turned my Firepower on and the left eject hole coil energizes right away. I checked the wiring and the out hole switch and all is fine there. I pulled the 2J11 connector and the coil doesn't energize. I did try and changed out the coil and still the same. I'm guessing that the Q21 TIP 122 needs to be replaced unless someone else has a better idea.
Quoted from firefighter:Turned my Firepower on and the left eject hole coil energizes right away. I checked the wiring and the out hole switch and all is fine there. I pulled the 2J11 connector and the coil doesn't energize. I did try and changed out the coil and still the same. I'm guessing that the Q21 TIP 122 needs to be replaced unless someone else has a better idea.
Pull the board and test the transistor - symptoms suggest it’s bad.
I’m still on the hunt for the ball guides that go below the flippers and a shooter lane exit game, all were missing from the game I just picked up. Any help is really appreciated. Thanks.
Quoted from firefighter:That's what I thought. I have never replaced one but one needs to start sometime.
People are going to judge, and yes it's a hack, but if you're not comfortable desoldering you can always snip the legs on the existing transistor and solder the new one right onto them. Much less likely to lift a trace.
Can anyone tell me where I would buy a backglass lift bar for this game? Also, do your games have trim around the back glass? If so, which trim is used?
Quoted from Aniraf:Can anyone tell me where I would buy a backglass lift bar for this game? Also, do your games have trim around the back glass? If so, which trim is used?
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-08-7227-FIREPOW-V2
Bottom of page shows the lift channel and trim
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/76276
Selling an extra mpu and driver board if anyone is looking.
Quoted from TaylorVA:I’m still on the hunt for the ball guides that go below the flippers and a shooter lane exit game, all were missing from the game I just picked up. Any help is really appreciated. Thanks.
Are you talking about the biff bars? I've never seen any for sale. You may have to make your own with stainless wire stock. Marco has many different thicknesses.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Wire+stock
Quoted from aztarac:http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-08-7227-FIREPOW-V2
Bottom of page shows the lift channel and trim
Perfect, ty!
Quoted from TaylorVA:I’m still on the hunt for the ball guides that go below the flippers and a shooter lane exit game, all were missing from the game I just picked up. Any help is really appreciated. Thanks.
I'm not 100%, but I think those are included in this set. (Same seller has the gate as well... Not great prices)
Of course as mentioned you could make your own as well.
Quoted from Aniraf:Marcos has them in stock, but I don’t know who made them so I am unsure of the quality.
I just bought a back glass from Marcos last week. I think the quality is pretty good. The colors look right, and the the mirroring looks good.
1DC4743F-4F5A-4815-BD8E-8628C5FF84A5 (resized).jpegQuoted from uncivil_engineer:I just bought a back glass from Marcos last week. I think the quality is pretty good. The colors look right, and the the mirroring looks good.[quoted image]
Looks fantastic! Mine is on the way. $200 is a steal for that.
Quoted from setzkor:I'm not 100%, but I think those are included in this set. (Same seller has the gate as well... Not great prices)
ebay.com link
Of course as mentioned you could make your own as well.
Thanks, yeah I saw those. May have to go that route.
Quoted from TaylorVA:Thanks, yeah I saw those. May have to go that route.
Taylor, maybe get this bender and some piano wire and make your own....
https://www.amazon.com/bending-Table-Mount-Forming-bender/dp/B00FN5SE00/ref=sr_1_5
Hi guys,
My right sling just stopped working out of nowhere. Ran a solenoid test, and it won't fire. All the others seem to be ok, so no global ground issue. I checked the solenoid's ground with others, there is continuity. I had installed a solenoid fuse board previously: I ran continuity between the driver wire, all the way back to the driver board and that is good, continuous through the fuse board. The diode at the solenoid is physically intact, can't reliably test it in circuit so I am not 100% sure about it. Looked over Q10 on the driver board, looks ok, and the resistors leading to it all test within range.
Anything else I should look at, or am overlooking here?
Quoted from La_Porta:Hi guys,
My right sling just stopped working out of nowhere. Ran a solenoid test, and it won't fire. All the others seem to be ok, so no global ground issue. I checked the solenoid's ground with others, there is continuity. I had installed a solenoid fuse board previously: I ran continuity between the driver wire, all the way back to the driver board and that is good, continuous through the fuse board. The diode at the solenoid is physically intact, can't reliably test it in circuit so I am not 100% sure about it. Looked over Q10 on the driver board, looks ok, and the resistors leading to it all test within range.
Anything else I should look at, or am overlooking here?
Ground the tab on the driver transistor. If the solenoid fires, you know the problem is on the board. If it does not fire, you have a wiring/connector/fuse problem.
If it does fire, time to start tracing the signal on the driver board.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Ground the tab on the driver transistor. If the solenoid fires, you know the problem is on the board. If it does not fire, you have a wiring/connector/fuse problem.
If it does fire, time to start tracing the signal on the driver board.
Specifically which tab on Q10? Collector/base/emitter? Still relatively new to troubleshooting transistors.
The large tab at the top which is the same as the collector pin...just far easier to access. 
Richard
Quoted from someotherguy:The large tab at the top which is the same as the collector pin...just far easier to access.
Richard
I was unaware of that! Thank you, good to know.
Hoping to hear from Firepower owners, I am trying to trouble shoot a continuous hum on the audio output.
The hum is not a big deal normally but since I have hooked up to external speakers and a powered sub woofer it is quite annoying.
On power up, does your machine make a short buzzy blurb sound for about one second then tapers off to a milder ongoing hum?
I have checked the grounding etc on the sound board, but am wondering if all Firepower machines have this same audio characteristic?
Quoted from AdjustFailure:Hoping to hear from Firepower owners, I am trying to trouble shoot a continuous hum on the audio output.
The hum is not a big deal normally but since I have hooked up to external speakers and a powered sub woofer it is quite annoying.
On power up, does your machine make a short buzzy blurb sound for about one second then tapers off to a milder ongoing hum?
I have checked the grounding etc on the sound board, but am wondering if all Firepower machines have this same audio characteristic?
I just finished up a restore and I do not hear any hum.
If I crawl under the cab and put my ear up there I can hear a little, but not while standing in front of it.
My first guess would be dried out filter caps on the sound board.
I would also recommend replacing the audio AC power connectors (male and female at J1) to the sound board.
Bud
Quoted from Budwin:dried out filter caps
Thanks for the advice, Budwin! Sorry to be so basic but looking at the sound board layout diagram, there appears to be 34 capacitors of different types on the sound board ... so which ones are the filter capacitors, and are there a few that would most likely be suspect in creating hum, and need to be replaced first?
Quoted from AdjustFailure:Thanks for the advice, Budwin! Sorry to be so basic but looking at the sound board layout diagram, there appears to be 34 capacitors of different types on the sound board ... so which ones are the filter capacitors, and are there a few that would most likely be suspect in creating hum, and need to be replaced first?
Sorry, C27, C26, C25, C15, C14
Bud
SoundAssy (resized).JPGThank you so much. I will source those parts and install, looking forward to getting rid of that annoying hum!
Quoted from AdjustFailure:Thank you so much. I will source those parts and install, looking forward to getting rid of that annoying hum!
Great Plains Electronics sells them in kit form for $6.
Quoted from Timerider:Great Plains Electronics sells them in kit form for $6.
Thanks for the tip ... GPE was out of stock today, but I was able to order the individual parts from ARROWNAC.COM for less than $8
including Free Shipping to Canada which is pretty sweet.
I have been impressed with Arrow's ability to ship for free to Canada via FedEx and the range of components and pricing they offer.
Quoted from joew575:Any one interested in this ?
[quoted image]
Would love it. Wish you were closer! 
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