(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,642 posts
  • 301 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 137 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 967 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

D55A4805-FAD8-4822-8275-21EB5AA7A165 (resized).jpeg
4B71ADED-74A1-426D-B73D-461510530199 (resized).jpeg
A27170FA-E62A-43EE-B0A0-06C203F9AB99 (resized).jpeg
1C7E40C1-F566-4CB6-9E3F-4C179397FD4E (resized).jpeg
D8F05A8F-07D9-4D87-8488-C752C10E0DE6 (resized).jpeg
20200624_212009 (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20200624-164248_Chrome (resized).jpg
E204909B-E607-4407-A33A-388390A782DA (resized).jpeg
F5123C92-5421-4C77-962D-0BF53C9CF6BB (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
955D3845-F95B-40AE-AD3A-D964E3197B1C (resized).jpeg
20200621_112414 (resized).jpg
960D948A-C0A8-4A17-BCDD-9535D01EFF98.gif
20200520_171539 (resized).jpg
E0CF3423-D04F-426E-B803-52F67A9C69A6 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20200619_214728 (resized).jpg

There are 3642 posts in this topic. You are on page 55 of 73.
#2701 1 year ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Man... I'm I the only one that decided if"it's worked for the last 30 years" I'll just leave the reversed switches alone? I feel like I'm being "switch-shamed". Damn now I have to go fix them.

Ya know, a lot of them worked fine for a long time. Once they start screwing up, you'll do nothing but chase them.. cleaning doesn't really help. Gotta flip. You can ease into it by only doing the ones that are really giving you trouble, like trough, ejects, etc. but think of the potential scoring losses you may not notice right away.

Richard

#2702 1 year ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Man... I'm I the only one that decided if"it's worked for the last 30 years" I'll just leave the reversed switches alone? I feel like I'm being "switch-shamed". Damn now I have to go fix them.

Don't feel bad, you're not alone. I did an entire playfield swap and didn't even look at the switches. I have too many other projects on the go right now and keep forgetting to pop up the playfield and have a look. I know it's an issue but it isn't a big deal. Sometimes when the ball drains I have to bang the lock down bar or hit the left flipper for the switch to register.

#2703 1 year ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Man... I'm I the only one that decided if"it's worked for the last 30 years" I'll just leave the reversed switches alone? I feel like I'm being "switch-shamed". Damn now I have to go fix them.

Nope, don't feel bad. You are not alone. If a switch is working reliably after cleaning and adjusting, I never swap them.

The enemy of good is better. Don't fix what isn't broken. etc.

#2704 1 year ago

Has anyone tried tapping their Firepower transformer for 100V to increase coil strength? Clay describes it a bit here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-how-hard-to-hit-top-lock#post-578032

Helping a friend with his Firepower and I can’t for the life of me get the upper lock shot to stick with any consistency. Perfect shots hit the post below the saucer 9 times out of 10.

Game is freshly shopped, new pinball life flipper parts, cab switches freshly filed. MPU/driver board is a new Rottendog so flipper relay and headers are brand new. Rebuilt female connectors on the driver board, completely rebuilt power supply, wires are soldered directly to the 25V bridge lugs. EOS is adjusted so it breaks at late as possible. I even tried removing the spinner and gate and jumpering the EOS closed without any improvements in consistency. Playfield is level at the flippers and up top by the lock. Pitched at 6.5 degrees.

Has anyone tried tapping their game for 100V? Has long term reliability been good? Did you use a bridge to drop the GI voltage like clay described?

Thanks!

#2705 1 year ago
Quoted from erichill:

Has anyone tried tapping their Firepower transformer for 100V to increase coil strength? Clay describes it a bit here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-how-hard-to-hit-top-lock#post-578032
Helping a friend with his Firepower and I can’t for the life of me get the upper lock shot to stick with any consistency. Perfect shots hit the post below the saucer 9 times out of 10.
Game is freshly shopped, new pinball life flipper parts, cab switches freshly filed. MPU/driver board is a new Rottendog so flipper relay and headers are brand new. Rebuilt female connectors on the driver board, completely rebuilt power supply, wires are soldered directly to the 25V bridge lugs. EOS is adjusted so it breaks at late as possible. I even tried removing the spinner and gate and jumpering the EOS closed without any improvements in consistency. Playfield is level at the flippers and up top by the lock. Pitched at 6.5 degrees.
Has anyone tried tapping their game for 100V? Has long term reliability been good? Did you use a bridge to drop the GI voltage like clay described?
Thanks!

I have not tried that but maybe check the bridge for a bad or weak diode? If one diode failed open, you would get a slightly low voltage situation. You should see ~32V on the solenoid or flipper fuses when no solenoids are active.

Did you replace C13 and brighten up (remove the oxidation) or better yet replace the flipper fuse and clips?

#2706 1 year ago

I’m putting my firepower back together after a full topside tear down. I’m switching to full leds and the flashers too. My question is should the flashers be lit full time during attract mode? If not then I have to figure out why mine are.

#2707 1 year ago

hdmike444 no, they shouldn’t be on in attract mode. You need to remove the warming resistor or ground wire on the flasher boards.

#2709 1 year ago
Quoted from erichill:

Pitched at 6.5 degrees.

There's your problem right there. After rebuilding my flippers with WPC mechs and new System 6 coils I was still unable to hit the top lock more than 50% of the time at 6.0 degrees. I found I had to drop it to 5.8 degrees to get a 90% or better consistency.

The direction I went was to add a System 9 50-volt transformer and use the higher power WPC flipper coils. No problems hitting the lock now at 6+ degrees.

#2710 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I have not tried that but maybe check the bridge for a bad or weak diode? If one diode failed open, you would get a slightly low voltage situation. You should see ~32V on the solenoid or flipper fuses when no solenoids are active.
Did you replace C13 and brighten up (remove the oxidation) or better yet replace the flipper fuse and clips?

I checked the bridge and got a normal 0.6V-ish forward voltage drop across all the diodes. I don’t have the game in front of me now, but the voltage at the coil did not strike me as abnormally low when I measured it.

C13 has been replaced. I didn’t replace the fuse clips, but they looked clean and had good tension. Will double check next time I’m working on it.

Quoted from dothedoo:

The direction I went was to add a System 9 50-volt transformer and use the higher power WPC flipper coils. No problems hitting the lock now at 6+ degrees.

Ooooh, that’s a great idea. The 50V power supply in these games was on a stand-alone board too. Will try lowering pitch too.

Thanks for the input, guys!

#2711 1 year ago
Quoted from erichill:

Has anyone tried tapping their Firepower transformer for 100V to increase coil strength? Clay describes it a bit here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-how-hard-to-hit-top-lock#post-578032
Helping a friend with his Firepower and I can’t for the life of me get the upper lock shot to stick with any consistency. Perfect shots hit the post below the saucer 9 times out of 10.
Game is freshly shopped, new pinball life flipper parts, cab switches freshly filed. MPU/driver board is a new Rottendog so flipper relay and headers are brand new. Rebuilt female connectors on the driver board, completely rebuilt power supply, wires are soldered directly to the 25V bridge lugs. EOS is adjusted so it breaks at late as possible. I even tried removing the spinner and gate and jumpering the EOS closed without any improvements in consistency. Playfield is level at the flippers and up top by the lock. Pitched at 6.5 degrees.
Has anyone tried tapping their game for 100V? Has long term reliability been good? Did you use a bridge to drop the GI voltage like clay described?
Thanks!

Did the flipper rebuild include new flipper base plates? Once I replaced them the shot to the saucer has plenty of power, just aim properly and you will be there. Replacing the base plates is the only way to replace the coil stops.

Don C.

#2712 1 year ago
Quoted from Don_C:

Did the flipper rebuild include new flipper base plates? Once I replaced them the shot to the saucer has plenty of power, just aim properly and you will be there. Replacing the base plates is the only way to replace the coil stops.
Don C.

He purchased the full system 6-7 flipper assembly from pinball life, so it has new base plates with integrated stops.

#2713 1 year ago
Quoted from erichill:

He purchased the full system 6-7 flipper assembly from pinball life, so it has new base plates with integrated stops.

I did the same and can hit that shot without issue. I can check the pitch on my game but I'm pretty sure I had it set at 6 degrees if not higher...

#2714 1 year ago

On my CPR playfield the hole is off so it makes it almost impossible to make that shot. It's mostly luck from the top of the lane dividers.

#2715 1 year ago

I’ve got an odd issue, that I’m pretty sure I created.

When I press start the flippers cannot be used for about 10 seconds, and after the final drain the flippers can be flipped for about ten seconds. It isn’t totally consistent. After a few games they will turn on right away. But will still be able to be flipped after game over for a bit.

Last week while doing some flipper work I shorted the switch matrix. Replaced IC15-18 and everything worked fine for a few days.

I don’t have a logic probe yet but going to order one. Would IC8 be a good start?

#2716 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I’ve got an odd issue, that I’m pretty sure I created.
When I press start the flippers cannot be used for about 10 seconds, and after the final drain the flippers can be flipped for about ten seconds. It isn’t totally consistent. After a few games they will turn on right away. But will still be able to be flipped after game over for a bit.
Last week while doing some flipper work I shorted the switch matrix. Replaced IC15-18 and everything worked fine for a few days.
I don’t have a logic probe yet but going to order one. Would IC8 be a good start?

Wow, that really is an odd one!

The signal you need to trace starts at IC5 pin 19 through IC7 out of pin 6, through IC9 out of pin 10, then through IC8 out of pin 1. Use your logic probe to test all those location to see where the signal starts to be slow to react. If these are all good, the problem probably is in the relay driver transistor Q13 or associated circuitry. It could also be the relay contacts getting sticky and dirty.

Anther troubleshooting step you can perform before the logic probe arrives is to see if the slings or pops are active at these times in addition to the flippers.

#2717 1 year ago

Don't overlook simpler explanation; may have nothing to do with anything else that has happened to the game recently. Might just be a sticky relay on the flipper enable...you could try carefully prying the cover off and see if you can clean up the contacts. Nothing abrasive.

Richard

#2718 1 year ago
Quoted from Travish:

Let everyone know about the NW7 board. There has been a little discussion but no hard facts yet.

just coming on to say I got my NW7 this week for my Blackout pinball machine and it is AMAZING. Works wonderfully and is very easy to set up. A GOD SEND!!!

#2719 1 year ago
Quoted from funknflow:

just coming on to say I got my NW7 this week for my Blackout pinball machine and it is AMAZING. Works wonderfully and is very easy to set up. A GOD SEND!!!

How was the total cost? Wonder if they will work with the games that rottendog gave up on?

#2720 1 year ago
Quoted from Travish:

How was the total cost? Wonder if they will work with the games that rottendog gave up on?

it was about $450 shipped to my door. It has 100% compatibility with system 3-7 games. Also keep in mind it's a MPU / Driver / Sound combo

#2721 1 year ago
Quoted from funknflow:

it was about $450 shipped to my door. It has 100% compatibility with system 3-7 games. Also keep in mind it's a MPU / Driver / Sound combo

any link for this and infos. thanks.

#2722 1 year ago

Finally got mine finished and able to play. I put a swemmer system 7 board and have the updated roms. Game is a blast to play
2367B8AE-CADA-47F0-AD28-25D03350CAB7 (resized).jpeg

#2723 1 year ago

This may be a little late getting here, but for what it's worth...

FP Drop Schematic 1 (resized).png

FP Drop Schematic 2 (resized).png

#2724 1 year ago

Joining the club Tuesday and wondered if anyone knew of a CPR playfield available FS. Thanks.

#2725 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Joining the club Tuesday and wondered if anyone knew of a CPR playfield available FS. Thanks.

A hardtop is available

#2726 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

A hardtop is available

That will be the next option.

#2727 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Joining the club Tuesday and wondered if anyone knew of a CPR playfield available FS. Thanks.

Original CPR run playfields are virtually unobtainium. However, CPR has this new fancy printer and they say they will be doing reruns of previously released playfields. I know they are now printing plastics that they have produced in the past whenever you want them and they are doing backglasses as well. Playfields may take longer. You may want to review these links for more info.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/announce-cpr-begins-its-new-business-model
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-floodgates-open-plastics-amp-glasses-releases

I have a CPR plafyield in mine and I've also played one with a hardtop (and drop targets!). Both games play really well. I've got a hardtop in my BK and am putting one in a Space Shuttle. You really can't go wrong either way.

#2728 1 year ago

Just put on a HardTop.
I found a donor PF and I am saving the old one for restoration.
Not sure anyone is looking to restore these anymore with the HardTop and CPR options.

Quoted from Budwin:

After sanding down to 320 grit I sprayed Rustoleum 2X gloss clear on the inserts for a nice shine.
I also blacked around the roll over switch slots since they show after the Hardtop is on.
[quoted image]
Now is the time to clamp the Hardtop down and stick it.
(2nd set of hands thanks to my wife for holding the Hardtop up while I pealed off the backing)
[quoted image]
It is done, the Hardtop went down and the inserts are aligned. (inserts are all that really matters)
[quoted image]
Next was the routing out of the Star roll overs, slowly and carefully.
Then a quick coat of wax.
[quoted image]
Now on to the playfield swap.
I will have a pretty nice restore-able Firepower playfield left over when this is done.
This is my version of the Firepower Hardtop experience, I am feeling really good about it.
I still have a ways to go before I can play it.

#2729 1 year ago

There is talk of Micro doing a run of these.

#2730 1 year ago

Got my new backglass. Playfield protector is next.

1AAF0796-6367-4D36-9FC4-DDBB422A0B90 (resized).jpeg48FC4891-C67C-49BB-9F3C-06343A28DCE5 (resized).jpeg
#2731 1 year ago

SR230CC... what are we looking at with the transformer pic?

#2732 1 year ago

It’s a replacement board to replace the big capacitor.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5040-09051-RC

#2733 1 year ago

Joined.

BCCA2CC4-DC35-4DEE-9364-9C286E80F5D4 (resized).jpeg
#2734 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Joined.
[quoted image]

Welcome to the club! This was the game you gave me some advice on when I made my own rails! Let me know if I can help you in any way.

#2735 1 year ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Welcome to the club! This was the game you gave me some advice on when I made my own rails! Let me know if I can help you in any way.

Thanks, appreciate that.

If anyone has a game they are using for spare parts I do need the ball guides under the Flipper bats and the shooter lane gate. My game is missing all three.

23732EE1-4A79-46CB-887D-6DDB13724F27 (resized).jpeg8411EF61-B055-4BA8-BCB8-BB04F9C9FEED (resized).jpeg
#2736 1 year ago

If you can't find any, you can bend your own wires for under the flippers. I think PBR or Marco sell the wire, and somewhere on this site is a tutorial for bending.

Hope you can repair the holes that someone put in the playfield for the post in the center drain - FP does not have that post.

#2737 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Thanks, appreciate that.
If anyone has a game they are using for spare parts I do need the ball guides under the Flipper bats and the shooter lane gate. My game is missing all three. [quoted image][quoted image]

I probably have all 3 pieces you need pm me and i will check tonight when i get home

#2738 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

If you can't find any, you can bend your own wires for under the flippers. I think PBR or Marco sell the wire, and somewhere on this site is a tutorial for bending.
Hope you can repair the holes that someone put in the playfield for the post in the center drain - FP does not have that post.

I will be installing a hardtop over the playfield so will take care of those extra holes.

Quoted from joew575:

I probably have all 3 pieces you need pm me and i will check tonight when i get home

PM sent. Thanks.

#2739 1 year ago

Sorry such a late bloomer but can someone tell me if the OEM caps were an off white? Are the repro caps worth a shit?

Before and after

596EB1EB-9DA0-44D7-BC50-960C6560B137 (resized).jpeg
#2740 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Sorry such a late bloomer but can someone tell me if the OEM caps were an off white? Are the repro caps worth a shit?
Before and after
[quoted image]

I think they are supposed to be white. I have 4 new ones I bought on eBay that aren’t bad. I never used them because my original ones actually cleaned up. If you are interested, let me know and I can get you some pictures.

#2741 1 year ago

They are supposed to be white.

When I restored mine in 2015/166, the available repros all had awful defects: the lettering was the wrong font, one character was consistently blurred, and the "wings" did not feather to nice points. Subtle but very noticeable side by side.

Here's something worth considering: the human eye perceives white in contrast relative to what's around it. So compared to the rest of the game, those will still look "white". And even brighter when lit. And they will match the other white elements that more or less faded consistently along with them over the same time.

But if you get new, stark-nuclear-white repros, suddenly they will be MUCH brighter than the inserts, death star, playfield text, and other white elements which are far more difficult to change, if you tend to be OCD about those things.

Since they cleaned nice and consistently (no staining or warping etc), I'd keep the originals.

#2742 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Sorry such a late bloomer but can someone tell me if the OEM caps were an off white? Are the repro caps worth a shit?

Sorry, I'm not a traditionalist, I hate those ugly caps. Have a look here...

#2743 1 year ago

Looking for some help troubleshooting the sound on my Firepower.
The 10 point switches (slingshots and the other ones) are making the "tilt" sound. Also, I think I am missing the word "power" as in: "You destroyed fire" or "fire destroyed you"...it does say "power" when I get the 3 blue targets, but does not say "Fire" when I spell it via in lanes...
Any hints on how to fix this?

#2744 1 year ago

The repro pop caps are trash. Mine live in the coinbox.

#2745 1 year ago
Quoted from tominator:

Looking for some help troubleshooting the sound on my Firepower.
The 10 point switches (slingshots and the other ones) are making the "tilt" sound. Also, I think I am missing the word "power" as in: "You destroyed fire" or "fire destroyed you"...it does say "power" when I get the 3 blue targets, but does not say "Fire" when I spell it via in lanes...
Any hints on how to fix this?

How long has it been this way? Is this a new behavior?

The signal that tells the sound board what to play are solenoid transistor outputs from the driverboard J9 and enter the sound board on J3. Reseat these connectors and see if it changes.

#2746 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

How long has it been this way? Is this a new behavior?
The signal that tells the sound board what to play are solenoid transistor outputs from the driverboard J9 and enter the sound board on J3. Reseat these connectors and see if it changes.

ok thank you for this...I will try that. I bought the game non-working a year ago. I fixed a ball trough issue and now it plays great except for the sound quirk...I will investigate further and post back here...

#2747 1 year ago
Quoted from tominator:

ok thank you for this...I will try that. I bought the game non-working a year ago. I fixed a ball trough issue and now it plays great except for the sound quirk...I will investigate further and post back here...

If it never worked, it could be issues on the board. Have you re-flowed solder to the header pins on those boards? Its a good idea to do reflow solder to all header pins on all boards in games of this era. Better yet, replace the header pins with new.

#2748 1 year ago

Hello - my original Firepower back glass looks good with the back lighting off, but when powered up and lit, it it is crackly and splitting with gaps all over.

I have done some touching up with acrylic paints but it still looks kind of nasty when lit up.

Rather than try further restoring, I wondered what advice or experiences on best source for a (mirrored) Firepower back glass replacement/reproduction?

#2749 1 year ago

In like Flynn! What length legs is this game supposed to have? Anybody paint them another color?

20190227_082253 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190224-143810_Facebook (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190224-144155_Facebook (resized).jpg
#2750 1 year ago

$400? That never happens for me.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 9.00
$ 12.00
Cabinet - Other
Siegecraft Electronics
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 22.50
1,250
Sale Pending!
Gardner, MA
$ 17.00
$ 14.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 9.99
Cabinet - Other
Bent Mods
$ 5.00
There are 3642 posts in this topic. You are on page 55 of 73.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside