(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club

By wiredoug

10 years ago


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  • 4,635 posts
  • 391 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by slochar
  • Topic is favorited by 182 Pinsiders

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There are 4,635 posts in this topic. You are on page 54 of 93.
#2651 5 years ago

Packing my game up to go into the basement. Didn’t realize it was one of the brick bottoms.

E054F941-4C2C-45CD-BE8B-028B2C2F35DB (resized).jpegE054F941-4C2C-45CD-BE8B-028B2C2F35DB (resized).jpeg
#2652 5 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Packing my game up to go into the basement. Didn’t realize it was one of the brick bottoms.
[quoted image]

Is there a significance to that? I have one of those too. I never understood why it was like that.

#2653 5 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is there a significance to that? I have one of those too. I never understood why it was like that.

Nothing to it I guess. I just had read they ran out of the wood they were using for the bottoms and just had some brick pattern panels laying around.

#2654 5 years ago

More problems...it worked for a day and now displays are blank. Also I can only boot into attract mode and play one game with the coin door open. If I turn it on with the door closed only the GI and some of the lights work. More investigation.

#2655 5 years ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

If I turn it on with the door closed only the GI and some of the lights work.

Batteries dead?

Battery holder corroded?

#2656 5 years ago

Has nvram battery eliminator. I’ll rebuild more stuff like sockets and the normal recommended and get back.

#2657 5 years ago

Randomly my firepower will start a two player game when the start button is pressed once. Most of the time it is the first game played after powering up. And it lights up the #2 light on the bottom right of the backglass right before the first ball is kicked into the shooter lane, not as you hit the start button.. any ideas? Board were just gone through and NVram installed.

#2658 5 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Randomly my firepower will start a two player game when the start button is pressed once. Most of the time it is the first game played after powering up. And it lights up the #2 light on the bottom right of the backglass right before the first ball is kicked into the shooter lane, not as you hit the start button.. any ideas? Board were just gone through and NVram installed.

Usually this is caused by dirty switch contacts. Clean the start button contacts by pressing the contacts together and pulling a piece of paper through them. Then gap the contacts close together, around 1/16".

#2659 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Usually this is caused by dirty switch contacts. Clean the start button contacts by pressing the contacts together and pulling a piece of paper through them. Then gap the contacts close together, around 1/16".

After a playfield swap mine was doing the same thing till I cleaned and adjusted the start switch like you said. Maybe 1 out of a 100 now.

#2660 5 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Randomly my firepower will start a two player game when the start button is pressed once. Most of the time it is the first game played after powering up. And it lights up the #2 light on the bottom right of the backglass right before the first ball is kicked into the shooter lane, not as you hit the start button.. any ideas? Board were just gone through and NVram installed.

Pin-up brought up the same issue in the Alien Poker thread this week (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-alien-poker-club-i-win-you-lose/page/2#post-4759970 ) and I was one of several "me too's" over there. Never been a problem on my FP, but responses here are consistent with what was recommended over there. It doesn't happen often here so I haven't addressed it yet.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

#2661 5 years ago

I joined the club a little while ago and I’m finally getting mine up and running. I bought a playfield protector and need to lower two inserts. Other than that the playfield is really nice. I need to find the targets, are they still available? I have a mixture of colors and styles. Everything else will clean up nicely. I also switched to a system seven swemmer board and installed updated roms after playing one with them.
Looking forward to finally playing it

#2662 5 years ago

I researched when I replaced every target. This is the only replacement that is 100% correct but...

You have to take one leaf of your original target to add to the stack and remove one small spacer. Basically take the new switch and add one leaf from your old target. They work for front or rear facing targets. They are perfect in every way.

Unfortunately marco says temporarily out of stock. I saw flippers in Canada has them in stock though. Maybe someone else too.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/25460-6R

#2663 5 years ago

A Firepower II project was my first (and only, so far) pin. Now that one is playing well (need to put in new targets, clean the bumpers, etc but we are loving it!)...looking for a Firepower project (or player's condition)...haven't seen anything lately...anyone have one they are willing to part with?

#2664 5 years ago

They pop up here in the market pretty often.

If you like early ss and Williams you might want to put either Flash, Gorgar or Black Knight on your list too.

#2665 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Usually this is caused by dirty switch contacts. Clean the start button contacts by pressing the contacts together and pulling a piece of paper through them. Then gap the contacts close together, around 1/16".

This worked! Thank you

#2666 5 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

They pop up here in the market pretty often.
If you like early ss and Williams you might want to put either Flash, Gorgar or Black Knight on your list too.

They are on the list along with an Alien Poker...

#2667 5 years ago

I can't seem to find decals for the Firepower II playfield....does anyone make them?
Seems like it is a common font so some kind of generic set might be out there?

I've got a new to me backglass arriving Wednesday (one scratch which should be easily touched up).
I need to do some playfield touchup from the 1-7 playfield lights...
then I'm planning on getting one of those fancy German mylars for the entire playfield.
New rubbers and three new bayonet sockets and a bumper cleaning (and wedge-socket light conversion for the bumpers) and my FP2 should be a solid 8.3/10...

boards, NVRAM and warm white LEDs already done...and it is playing like a champ.

#2668 5 years ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

They are on the list along with an Alien Poker...

Skip Flash and Gorgar and go straight for Alien Poker. Unless you've got unlimited room and funds...

Richard

#2669 5 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Skip Flash and Gorgar and go straight for Alien Poker. Unless you've got unlimited room and funds...

No love for Gorgar here. Can't comment on Flash. Not a fan of the artwork on AP but absolutely love the game!

#2670 5 years ago

I played Gorgar extensively for about 6 weeks in Milwaukee 20 years ago.
I was on an extended business trip. No need to go back to Gorgar.
If I found one in the wild, I would drop a few quarters in but I don't need that title.
Flash is one that I would pick up as a project if it were cheap enough.
I hate the artwork.
I read the phrase "9th grade awful" describing the art and I totally agree.
BUT I think a working one, resurrected from the dead would be fun for a bit and easy to sell as a break even--if it was cheap enough up front.

But FIREPOWER and Black Knight are probably at the top of the search pile.

#2671 5 years ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

I joined the club a little while ago and I’m finally getting mine up and running. I bought a playfield protector and need to lower two inserts. Other than that the playfield is really nice. I need to find the targets, are they still available? I have a mixture of colors and styles. Everything else will clean up nicely. I also switched to a system seven swemmer board and installed updated roms after playing one with them.
Looking forward to finally playing it

I have a real easy method for making good target decals. I can give you an overview of it if you are wanting to go that way. It involves printed decal sticker sheet and overlaying it with Mylar for protection. Really brightens up old targets.

#2672 5 years ago

Interesting tidbit: I was watching the original Karate Kid with my family a few nights ago, and in one scene in the arcade, I spotted the side of a Firepower II backglass. This makes the second time I’ve personally seen FP in film. The other I know of is a Star Trek: Voyager episode.

Anyone else seen them in movies/shows?

#2673 5 years ago

I have everything working except the displays now. Are these the correct points for measuring the 100V + and - ?
I think there may be a ground issue because this is the only way I can measure both from two different grounds.

Measuring Points (resized).jpgMeasuring Points (resized).jpg
#2674 5 years ago

Ok. I’m at a loss. I checked voltages and shuffled chips around and I still can’t get anything on the displays. Maybe led displays will work.
Another issue is the arrow target inserts with Led’s. After I get most lit up the remaining few blink very lightly. Is this normal with leds?

1 week later
#2675 5 years ago

Everything works now. I put in LED displays. Maybe there is an issue with my 100V. Now on to getting backglass and a playfield protector.

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#2676 5 years ago

I have these leftover from my restoration. They are fairly nice. Is anyone interested?

499D79FB-03BF-44BD-BA82-247052475615 (resized).jpeg499D79FB-03BF-44BD-BA82-247052475615 (resized).jpeg
#2677 5 years ago

I may be, let me check tonight when I get home. I might have a cracked one or two.

#2678 5 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I have these leftover from my restoration. They are fairly nice. Is anyone interested?
[quoted image]

I could use the plastic from the back upper left corner if no one has claimed it.

#2679 5 years ago

Are you selling just the set? I am interested in the slings, especially the left one, if you are selling pieces.

#2680 5 years ago

Help please..
Both of these switches do not register in a switch test. I see they share a yellow wire. If I replace both switches, what type of switch do I need? Game will not start. Thanks

trough-switch (resized).jpgtrough-switch (resized).jpg
#2681 5 years ago

Almost certainly not the physical switch. Try jumping the connection with alligator clips. If still no switch, it’s wiring, connectors, or a board/diode issue.

#2682 5 years ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I can't seem to find decals for the Firepower II playfield....does anyone make them?

Quoted from La_Porta:

I have a real easy method for making good target decals. I can give you an overview of it if you are wanting to go that way. It involves printed decal sticker sheet and overlaying it with Mylar for protection. Really brightens up old targets.

I've printed the target artwork on glossy photo paper and glued them to the target and covered with tape. Very durable.

FP1 (resized).jpgFP1 (resized).jpgFP2 (resized).jpgFP2 (resized).jpg
#2683 5 years ago

FYI I to a couple of PMs on the plastic. It is off the market until I deal with the first come first served people .

#2684 5 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Almost certainly not the physical switch. Try jumping the connection with alligator clips. If still no switch, it’s wiring, connectors, or a board/diode issue.

Man, you nailed it. I traced it back to the board and wiggle this around a bit, and the game starts. This is the same bad connection that causes the "F" in Fire not to work. Thank you!

board--problem (resized).jpgboard--problem (resized).jpg
#2685 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

Man, you nailed it. I traced it back to the board and wiggle this around a bit, and the game starts. This is the same bad connection that causes the "F" in Fire not to work. Thank you!
[quoted image]

By the way your ball #1 switch (on the right in your pic) is one of the notorious "backwards assembled" switches of the era. Notice the contact has the wide part facing outwards towards you. If you carefully disassemble the switch stack and flip that blade over, and clean the contacts (nothing abrasive! - I use Wenol metal polish) your ball trough will be much more reliable.

For the wiggle issue either the header connector on the board has bad solder joints, or the connector is bad. Those IDC style connectors simply strip the wire as the wires are punched into them and can become unreliable over time. You can try as a shortcut just pushing the wires back down into the pins from the top side using a small flat screwdriver...or go ahead and replace the connector using crimp terminals and appropriate connector housing. But if the headers on the boards haven't been resoldered yet, that's your go-to job.

Richard

#2686 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

Help please..
Both of these switches do not register in a switch test. I see they share a yellow wire. If I replace both switches, what type of switch do I need? Game will not start. Thanks[quoted image]

Mine had the same issue. I had a bad cabinet connector I found. Was not at board connector.

#2687 5 years ago

That upside down switch issue is more common in later system 7, like Black Knight. Time to repin your board and connectors.

#2688 5 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

That upside down switch issue is more common in later system 7, like Black Knight. Time to repin your board and connectors.

If you look at ball #1 switch in his picture, the blade is clearly upside-down. So regardless of where it may or may not be more common.. that one needs attention.

BTW it seems very common with Firepower.

Richard

#2689 5 years ago

Yep, their nipples are showing.

#2690 5 years ago

I hate IDC connectors. Carry on.

#2691 5 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

I hate IDC connectors. Carry on.

Just mush those wires in there tighter with a pocket screwdriver and carry on. Hell, it works a lot of the time anyway.

And in the end, we replace properly with real live crimp connectors.. trifurcon preferred

Richard

#2692 5 years ago

What's funny is that IDC itself is not necessarily a bad concept. Just misapplied (in hindsight!) in the high current + vibration/heat prone enviro of a pinball backbox.

For proof, consider how you're reading this: Ethernet cable wall jacks (even wireless signal receivers have to physically plug into something) are almost universally IDC - even less robust at that since there is only a single-cut on those connections. And technically, the way leads in the end of a RJ45 patch cable are pressed into their conductors is IDC style, too....

...and yet those are generally failure free. It's all about duty cycle.

#2693 5 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Just mush those wires in there tighter with a pocket screwdriver and carry on. Hell, it works a lot of the time anyway.
And in the end, we replace properly with real live crimp connectors.. trifurcon preferred
Richard

Nope. I replaced every single one with trifurcons. Might take a weekend but will never chase a connector ghost again.

#2694 5 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

If you look at ball #1 switch in his picture, the blade is clearly upside-down. So regardless of where it may or may not be more common.. that one needs attention.
BTW it seems very common with Firepower.
Richard

Just had to check out my system 6 and what do you know!

Switch 1 (resized).jpgSwitch 1 (resized).jpg
#2695 5 years ago
Quoted from iamdrunker:

Just had to check out my system 6 and what do you know![quoted image]

Check the whole playfield...though I'll say I am surprised to see two examples where only the one switch in the trough is wrong! I've opened up Firepowers where practically EVERY switch on the playfield was wrong. That's a bear of a job to disassemble each one and flip the blade.

When you get sick of chasing trough problems converting to microswitch (a la BK LE) is the way to go.

Richard

#2696 5 years ago

I was looking at my firepower the other night and the 1st trough switch was wrong and I began to look at other switches and the top blade on the 5 or 6 that I checked has the wide contact facing toward the underside of the playfield I would guess these need flipped too?

Joe

#2697 5 years ago

It was awhile ago, but I swear on mine that some of the contacts have nipples on both sides.

#2698 5 years ago

Steve Young (PBR) has the gold flashed contact rivets. I unsolder the switch stack, remove the switch go tot he bench. Now you have a choice. Flip the switch blade over and clean, or grind off the upset (smaller) side of the rivet, remove the old contact and replace. Cushion the face of the contact (hardwood w/ a layer of duct tape) and peen the rivet shank with a hammer.

Don C

#2699 5 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

When you get sick of chasing trough problems converting to microswitch (a la BK LE) is the way to go.

This...

At some point I will make the change. That way I won't have to worry about them again. It's about the only thing that gives me trouble on my game.

#2700 5 years ago

Man... I'm I the only one that decided if"it's worked for the last 30 years" I'll just leave the reversed switches alone? I feel like I'm being "switch-shamed". Damn now I have to go fix them.

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