(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,661 posts
  • 305 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Robotworkshop
  • Topic is favorited by 140 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 968 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20200707_114707189 (resized).jpg
D55A4805-FAD8-4822-8275-21EB5AA7A165 (resized).jpeg
4B71ADED-74A1-426D-B73D-461510530199 (resized).jpeg
A27170FA-E62A-43EE-B0A0-06C203F9AB99 (resized).jpeg
1C7E40C1-F566-4CB6-9E3F-4C179397FD4E (resized).jpeg
D8F05A8F-07D9-4D87-8488-C752C10E0DE6 (resized).jpeg
20200624_212009 (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20200624-164248_Chrome (resized).jpg
E204909B-E607-4407-A33A-388390A782DA (resized).jpeg
F5123C92-5421-4C77-962D-0BF53C9CF6BB (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
955D3845-F95B-40AE-AD3A-D964E3197B1C (resized).jpeg
20200621_112414 (resized).jpg
960D948A-C0A8-4A17-BCDD-9535D01EFF98.gif
20200520_171539 (resized).jpg
E0CF3423-D04F-426E-B803-52F67A9C69A6 (resized).jpeg

There are 3661 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 74.
#2301 1 year ago

It's what came with my FP...your guess is as good as mine. Maybe thats what they all had to start? If not, any one with pictures of the newer one on theirs?

1 week later
#2302 1 year ago

Would anyone happen to know what the part numbers are for the switches that sense for the ball to be kicked up in the shooter lane? I don’t have a manual right now & I would like to order the parts. Thank you very much.

#2303 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Would anyone happen to know what the part numbers are for the switches that sense for the ball to be kicked up in the shooter lane?

Not sure if this helps...

pasted_image (resized).png

#2304 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I don’t have a manual right now & I would like to order the parts.

This what you are looking for...?

pasted_image (resized).png

#2305 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

They added a hood extension, in order to keep the balls from flying out.

By the way, thanks, this totally helped solve the entire problem. How in the world did they get by with the old design??

#2306 1 year ago
Quoted from dzorbas:This what you are looking for...?
[quoted image]

Thanks very much dzorbas ! I believe that’s what I’m looking for. I really appreciate it.

#2307 1 year ago

I was looking for those 5 switches because the ball Will not kick to the shooter lane. I called Steve at Pinbal resource and he said nobody makes these switches for Firepower and that I would need to order some metal pieces & rebuild them.

Has anybody had experience in doing this and is it very difficult? Thanks a lot.

#2308 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I was looking for those 5 switches because the ball Will not kick to the shooter lane. I called Steve at Pinbal resource and he said nobody makes these switches for Firepower and that I would need to order some metal pieces & rebuild them.

Has anybody had experience in doing this and is it very difficult? Thanks a lot.

Yes I have... I have rebuilt B-8925 assemblies.

#2309 1 year ago

Does anyone know wtf this board is? Mine appears to have a disconnected resistor and has some heat damage. The game still runs despite this, so I am curious what exactly I am looking at.

72CAF7E5-A248-41B9-BE89-D939A297B1FD (resized).jpeg9F4216E1-AACB-4740-8641-40BE8748EDE7 (resized).jpeg
#2310 1 year ago

It's the warming circuit for the flashers. It supplies a tiny amount of power all the time to keep the filaments warm. It also keeps the bulbs from burning out quickly. If you are using leds you need to clip one leg of the large resistor to disable. If you don't the leds will stay on dim all the time.

#2311 1 year ago
Quoted from Travish:

It's the warming circuit for the flashers. It supplies a tiny amount of power all the time to keep the filaments warm. It also keeps the bulbs from burning out quickly. If you are using leds you need to clip one leg of the large resistor to disable. If you don't the leds will stay on dim all the time.

Oh, interesting. What if you use a mix of LED and incandescent?

Also, thanks for the info!

#2312 1 year ago

If you use an incandescent flasher you will need to keep the warming circuit. If you put in an LED flasher it will stay lit (dimly) if you don't disable the warming circuit. It has no effect on the other lighting.

#2313 1 year ago

What type of lube do you use on these? I cleaned them with an ultrasonic cleaner, then put zoom spout filler oil on them. They still fell stiffer than I would expect.

C3DAEA28-9148-47BA-8A4C-394F9DE980A2 (resized).jpeg
#2314 1 year ago

Looks like the plungers could do with a bit of a polish.

I personally wouldn't put oil anywhere on these pieces. As long as they are clean and polished you should be fine. At a push you could lubricate the pin attached to the part that screws to the playfield (if that makes sense).

Don't put oil on the plungers. Unless you regularly like cleaning black, oily gunk from them

#2315 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

What type of lube do you use on these? I cleaned them with an ultrasonic cleaner, then put zoom spout filler oil on them. They still fell stiffer than I would expect. [quoted image]

Did you disassemble the pivot points and clean out the old lubricant with a light solvent (electrical contact cleaner, WD40, etc)?

I put a drop of any oil on the playfield bracket pivot point. I never lube any plunger link pivot points.

#2316 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Did you disassemble the pivot points and clean out the old lubricant with a light solvent (electrical contact cleaner, WD40, etc)?
I put a drop of any oil on the playfield bracket pivot point. I never lube any plunger link pivot points.

Yes, I disassembled them completely, then ran them through the ultrasonic. After that was done I ran pipe cleaners through the holes and removed any residual gunk. They are really clean. I thought they might need some oil since the linkage did not feel smooth when I actuated it. I put a few tiny drops of zoom spout filler oil in there, which helped, but didn't produce the effect I was expecting.

#2317 1 year ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

Looks like the plungers could do with a bit of a polish.
I personally wouldn't put oil anywhere on these pieces. As long as they are clean and polished you should be fine. At a push you could lubricate the pin attached to the part that screws to the playfield (if that makes sense).
Don't put oil on the plungers. Unless you regularly like cleaning black, oily gunk from them

Does it make a big difference to polish the parts in a vibratory tumbler? I figured cleaning them was enough. Will the polishing make the action more smooth?

#2318 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

What type of lube do you use on these? I cleaned them with an ultrasonic cleaner, then put zoom spout filler oil on them. They still fell stiffer than I would expect. [quoted image]

Polish those plungers a little, put new sleeves in the coils. Use a fine file or emery stick to take any burr off the plunger tip.

That is not a "high action" part, so it only needs to kick the balls out, nothing fancy.

I use the same Zoom Spout Oil that I put in a little Needle Oiler.

Remember folks, almost nothing on a pin needs oil, only the metal on metal pivot points.

#2319 1 year ago

Hi all. Still looking for a nos or cpr playfield if anyone has one? Happy to pay the right money. Please PM if you can help Thankyou

#2320 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Still looking for a nos or cpr playfield if anyone has one?

Best option, as of right now, is to use the new overlay.

#2321 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

What type of lube do you use on these? I cleaned them with an ultrasonic cleaner, then put zoom spout filler oil on them. They still fell stiffer than I would expect. [quoted image]

Like Vid said, polish them up and new sleeves. For some (like my slingshot plungers), I replaced the plunger entirely because the linkage had too much lateral play in it and was pushing the kicker arm to the side rather than straight out.

#2322 1 year ago

3rd time in this club, I keep coming back. What a great game!

I'm thinking of doing the 7 digit upgrade. Do we just use the PINMAME rom stored on IPDB (PinMAME Romset (system 6 7-digit bootleg))?

#2323 1 year ago

After installing the playfield protector I realized I knocked the hook off the spinner. Does the hook attach to the switch straight or from the side

So in the photo is what I am calling straight on

image (resized).jpg
#2324 1 year ago

You should be able to tell from the top side. When the bend in the wire is correct at the spinner it will be correct underneath unless you bent the rod.

#2325 1 year ago

Just picked up a Firepower. What color should the flipper bat be? Flyer shows white, IPDB shows yellow as mine are. Also mine has a mini post rubber on the right outlane wire guide. Flyer doesn't show it and I've seen some with and without it. Someone removed the wire guides below the flippers and installed a mini post between the flippers, I assuming to lessen drains.

#2326 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Polish those plungers a little, put new sleeves in the coils. Use a fine file or emery stick to take any burr off the plunger tip.
That is not a "high action" part, so it only needs to kick the balls out, nothing fancy.
I use the same Zoom Spout Oil that I put in a little Needle Oiler.
Remember folks, almost nothing on a pin needs oil, only the metal on metal pivot points.

Do you take that fiber board off when you put them in the tumbler?

#2327 1 year ago

Is there any way to remove mylar from under the pop bumpers without removing the pop bumpers? Everything about the disassembly of the pop bumpers was easy until I got to those damn light wires!

0AFDCA42-8ED8-4A20-9688-FC8B2A448BB9 (resized).jpeg
#2328 1 year ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

Just picked up a Firepower. What color should the flipper bat be? Flyer shows white, IPDB shows yellow as mine are. Also mine has a mini post rubber on the right outlane wire guide. Flyer doesn't show it and I've seen some with and without it. Someone removed the wire guides below the flippers and installed a mini post between the flippers, I assuming to lessen drains.

The bats on mine are white. I think most are.

There shouldn’t be a post rubber on the right outlane, nor a mini post between the flippers. Both make the game easier.

#2329 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is there any way to remove mylar from under the pop bumpers without removing the pop bumpers? Everything about the disassembly of the pop bumpers was easy until I got to those damn light wires![quoted image]

I don’t think so.

Don’t be worried, just desolder those light wires and you can remove the rest of the pop bumpers. They’re really not that complex, especially if you don’t fiddle with the switch stack.

And read Vid’s guide on rebuilding pop bumpers if you haven’t.

#2330 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Do you take that fiber board off when you put them in the tumbler?

I don't tumble plungers, it's quicker to just give them a fast rub down with a rag and Novus2.

We just want them free of any oxidation that might hang up in the sleeve.

#2331 1 year ago

Does anyone know how to get these little metal things out of the old plastic so that I can put them into the new plastic? I assume I grind them down somehow, but I am not entirely sure how to do that without trashing the old plastic or bending the little bells. Ideally someone would just sell these and I could get some kind of grommet hammer and put them on the new plastic.

A8089EF6-F4B5-4CA0-ADD3-DBD036DCDF0D (resized).jpeg
#2332 1 year ago

vid1900 you mention the long nose upholstery stapler to put the pop bumpers back together, is there a manual tool which can do that? It seems a bit unnecessary for me to buy a $100+ staple gun for a few pop bumpers. That said, I also don’t want to try to push the old staples back in.

Does anyone ever just solder shielded wire to the lamp post, then run it down to the junction? I feel like the lighting replacement in the pop bumpers is unnecessarily complex. I laugh at the fact that these machines have unshielded wire stapled all over the bottom of the playfield like an electric spider web.

#2333 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Does anyone know how to get these little metal things out of the old plastic so that I can put them into the new plastic?

Stick your soldering iron in the hole and they just pull out with a twist.

#2334 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

vid1900 you mention the long nose upholstery stapler to put the pop bumpers back together, is there a manual tool which can do that? It seems a bit unnecessary for me to buy a $100+ staple gun for a few pop bumpers. That said, I also don’t want to try to push the old staples back in.

You can use a $20 20 gauge pneumatic stapler if you want from HF.

or a manual staple gun (your going to have a sore hand).

Quoted from Aniraf:

Does anyone ever just solder shielded wire to the lamp post, then run it down to the junction?

Yep

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet#post-4470189

ae31ebab965faa3a966c9d08d73b74d6999f6a94 (resized).jpg

Quoted from Aniraf:

I laugh at the fact that these machines have unshielded wire stapled all over the bottom of the playfield like an electric spider web.

You don't have to follow that path:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4559360

#2335 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Stick your soldering iron in the hole and they just pull out with a twist.

My god, that worked like a charm! Can I install them the same way?

#2336 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can use a $20 20 gauge pneumatic stapler if you want from HF.
or a manual staple gun (your going to have a sore hand).

Yep
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet#post-4470189
[quoted image]

You don't have to follow that path:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4559360

Wow! You are awesome! I owe you a few beers and some games of Scorpion next time you come to Phoenix!

#2337 1 year ago
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet#post-4470189
[quoted image]

Looks like comet stopped selling these .

#2338 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Looks like comet stopped selling these .

I think they just moved the url

https://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpdisc.htm

#2339 1 year ago

Huh…I looked all over. I must have missed it. Thanks again!

#2340 1 year ago

The machine I am restoring has a disconnected knocker. Upon further inspection, the paper on the coil is burned. So that probably means someone soldered it out due to an issue.

The question I have is can you just put any coil in there? I have one laying around that someone gave me because they thought they needed it for the slingshot in their theater of magic.

#2341 1 year ago

If the coil is burnt it's probably a upstream issue. Something locked it on and caused it to burn. You could swap with another coil in the game and see before you buy a new one. The correct coil is about $10.

#2342 1 year ago

Check the driver and pre-driver transistors BEFORE you replace that coil.

#2343 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Huh…I looked all over. I must have missed it. Thanks again!

I updated the original post with the new location.

That's the problem will all those reference posts, you'd need a full time team to keep all the links current

#2344 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Check the driver and pre-driver transistors BEFORE you replace that coil.

This game has a RottenDog MPU, so I suspect that it could have had much bigger issues at some point. The prior owner didn't even notice that it was unhooked when I called it out. I guess I could just solder it back on and do some testing?

#2345 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

This game has a RottenDog MPU, so I suspect that it could have had much bigger issues at some point. The prior owner didn't even notice that it was unhooked when I called it out. I guess I could just solder it back on and do some testing?

That adds a whole new wrinkle, lol

There is no rush for a working knocker, so get the correct coil on your next parts order.

Make sure you solder the wires on the correct side of the coil diode.

Then when you power on, leave your finger on the power switch in case the coil instantly locks.

If you are still good, go into Coil Test and make sure she fires correctly.

#2346 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

There is no rush for a working knocker, so get the correct coil on your next parts order.

I'm going to deploy this one to my friends bar once I get it totally restored...well, I should say...restored to the best of my ability. I like the knocker in the bar so that people can hear when the credits hit the machine, especially with the Payrange device to pay for it. You're right, it is not the end of the world, but it would be nice. .

I'll do the test you suggested and find out what was going on. For all I know, it works perfectly.

#2347 1 year ago

The "knocker" from that era is pretty tame so if your friend's bar is loud, you might consider some modification. It's more of a...thumper. Not a neck-snapping jolt of WTF like one from a system 11 game...

Richard

#2348 1 year ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

The "knocker" from that era is pretty tame so if your friend's bar is loud, you might consider some modification. It's more of a...thumper. Not a neck-snapping jolt of WTF like one from a system 11 game...
Richard

I have a Scorpion in the bar that has nearly the same make up (as far as I can tell)…the knocker in that is perfect as you really just need the clicking to prove you coined up with the PayRange device.

I’ll keep everyone posted on my pending house fire .

#2349 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

you really just need the clicking to prove you coined up with the PayRange device.

It doesn’t show a credit on the credit display?

#2350 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I'm going to deploy this one to my friends bar...

Hehe. So, You. Deploy. Fire. Power.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 12.00
Cabinet - Other
Siegecraft Electronics
$ 14.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
$ 11.00
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 22.50
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 49.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 9.00
1,250
Sale Pending!
Gardner, MA
$ 7.00
Electronics
APB Enterprises
From: $ 25.00
Boards
German-Pinball-Modular
There are 3661 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 74.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside