I do need to get myself one of those bench top belt sanders.

Any ideas on why my ball trough has become a cannon? :$

Note: Ball trough lane feeder should be new part number #A-8050-1.
-----As in Adams Family pinball.

Why not the original A-8247? A-8050-1 is a plunger.

Keep the A-8247 Eject Cam Assembly...
Upgrade the Eject Cam Plunger...
The plunger controls the throw of the "Cam Assembly".

Just joined the club. Not once but twice!

EEB3BBEA-E5E7-4A38-9EFE-E6C0E54CC5E7 (resized).jpeg

Dream come true. Put them next to each other, one with stand ups and one with drop targets

I agree, that would be great. I have opted for the next best thing - two Firepower playfields, One with stand ups & one with drop targets. It only take a few minutes to swap them over. I have to say both play very differently, I much prefer the drops.

Make a Head2Head game out of them.

All the cool kids are doing it.

The drop targets are easy to install? I figured you would need new code or something to trigger the reset? Perhaps this is simply a function of the drop target system?

Also, where do you get matching drops for Firepower? Was the game really designed for drops, but the normal targets were used to save money?

Sorry…so many questions!

No expert and memory is prob fuzzy but something like:
Prototypes had cutouts in the playfield where drops would originally go and the wiring was in place already but not used. They did not go with them in the end so later playfields did not have the cutouts. If you add them after the fact you have to route out behind the standups. Lots of info out there.

Also I believe the code already supports the additional target behind the drops but it is just not used.

http://pinball.flippers.info/firepowerdroptargets/

I did the conversion as per the link above (from Mark's pinball pages). The code for the drop target bank reset coils exists in the programming for all the production games. Also the drop target reset coil wiring is present in the backbox up to the playfield connector (but wiring & terminals are not present in the playfield connector & loom).

You can see on the Firepower flyer the game has drop targets, but was changed in production to stand ups due to unreliability of the drops I believe.

After playing the game with drops for sometime I find the flow of the ball feels right, to me, hitting the stand ups the ball is too random in trajectory & too fast on the rebound, quite often no control of the ball. Hitting the drops you can control the ball or predict where it will go. This feels like it should be the way the game plays.

Gameplay with the drops still plays plenty fast enough. Does not feel slow, especially when you get a rebound from the rubber on a dropped target.

If unsure, I think the best idea would be to do the conversion without the cut outs for the 10 point switches, that way you can gauge how you like it, if you don't you can reverse it. If you prefer you can do the cut outs later as it's permanent.

All you need is any system 3-6 drop target assemblies (not system 7 or later) you can buy the correct Firepower prototype decals for them easily from a few vendors.

I actually cut down a 5 bank target bank to a 3 bank, result is the same, gives a bit more scope on finding some used banks (either a 3, 4 or 5 bank will work).

Another thing to consider is using setting up a double horseshoe wiper for the targets. One regular horseshoe wiper with the two contacts, doubled up with another contactless horseshoe wiper behind it, increasing the tension (x2), you can simply file off the contacts or carefully drill the back side of the contacts on an existing wiper for the back one. a single horseshoe will go out of adjustment easily, this is the big problem with them.

In a year or so since I did the conversion & used double wipers I haven't needed to adjust my horseshoe connectors once & that's with plenty of games played. The targets also drop fine with the extra tension, no need to change the springs, I think the originals just didn't have the right tension for reliability.

I also tried the new wipers that are available & I found using a single one they also soon went out of adjustment, tension wise, so I prefer doubled up original wipers.

You can see the pics of the doubled up wipers here & some more info...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-drop-target-wiring-help-needed

Great idea! A year later I'm finally having horseshoe issues, but cleaning things up with a Qtip and 99% IPA seems to remedy it.

-mof

Joydivision I am currently in the process of doing this mod...thanks for the detailed and highly informative post!

The very early games have the wood routed out for the scoring switch that goes behind the drop bank, as well as the wiring in place on the playfield. Also, the playfield is dimpled for the drop bank. The plastics over the targets are different as well; they're slightly shorter at the front edge to clear the drops. You'll notice on regular Firepowers there is a thick blue edge at the front of those plastics where they simply added material and did not change the original artwork other than to add that blue edge.

Richard

I had never noticed that! yes, the blue edge overhangs with the drops. It doesn't look right, I'm going to have to find a used pair of plastics & cut them down & create the clear border at the front edge.
P1030387 (resized).JPG

I'll just add that the CPR playfields already have the cut for the drops.

I have thought about changing to drops but just can't bring myself to do it. Part of the game strategy is how those damn stand ups will send it right down the middle if you hit the left bank off the right flipper or the right bank off the left flipper. I hate that damn thing but have to hit the start button one more time.

Looks like their was one difference with the prototype art on the left target plastic - their is the word "try"on it where production plastics are blank there

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=856&picno=66360

Doooooo ittttttttt..........

+1

I have a firepower that is going to be restored. Think I will put an ad looking drops when I do!

I feel like if I put drops in mine I’d roll it every game. Haha

I thought it was a lot harder to get points with drops?

Not sure if the rules change, but if hitting all drops down lights spinner, I imagine it will be easier to rack up points.

In that same photo, the art on the target inserts is different too. Rather, the numbers are in a different and bold faced font that almost fills the entire arrow. I wonder how that looks lit up? Regardless, that's not quite as easy a change to replicate!

Wouldn't that be the same as the stand up version? Lighting all 6 would equate to dropping all 6; when all 6 are lit, locks and the 1000pt spinner are activated.

In the article about the conversion I thought they mentioned how much lower scores were with the drop conversion.

My scores really are not that different from playing before with the stand ups, I find it's still hard, I can't master it, I just find it's basically more fun & flows better with drops, but subjective of course.

I hadn't noticed that either - interesting.

Yep. My point is, drops are less dangerous to hit than standups. Love that this is an option though.

Here's a pic showing the drop style target plastics, and the cut-out in the playfield for the switch behind the drops. My game was originally made for drops but shipped with standups.

Hadn't noticed that! My game does not have the TRY on the target plastic.

Also included the pic showing the drop bank dimples under the playfield. Pretty sure I've posted both of these earlier in the thread but since we're back on that particular subject, here they are.

Richard

fp_sw_01 (resized).jpg

fp_sw_02 (resized).jpg

Funny that there are 10 point switches installed in the cut outs that can never be hit. Definitely one of the early production games! In this pic (https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=856&picno=66360&zoom=1) you can also see a ball guide or rail of some type behind the rubber. I've never noticed that before. Never realized the original plastics were different either. That's neat.

I have a CPR playfield in mine and I have relocated the light sockets and put them in the cutouts. It lights up the plastics better and hides the bulb behind the centre standup target.

They had 3 firepowers at CAex. As I did my laps around the maze, I never saw an open machine. Still one of the crowd favorites.
I know this has likely been asked before, but the newer style standups that have the brackets in a different spot, are they fairly easy to install correctly?

Hi All still looking for a play repro or nos playfield if anyone has one.
Not keen to try the hard top road until some more feedback comes back from some people.
Cheers
Kurt

Looks like Kevin at CPR is going to make some of the prototype drop target playfield plastics that will be added to new repro sets when done.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-floodgates-open-plastics-amp-glasses-releases/page/7#post-4521235

post # 303.

That's great!

Looking at the word "'try" that is on the prototype left target plastic here, it's strange as it is not on other prototype plastics their are pics of, or on the plastic depicted on the flyer which is blank, different font to the rest as well, but it definitely looks like it's factory screened & not done by someone adding the custom font somehow? They must have just tried a few with the word & dropped the idea? But it does look right to me.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=856&picno=66361&zoom=1

Probably a bad display. You can swap displays and power it up and see if a different resistor starts getting hot but don't hold your finger on long. I had the same issue. There's a thread here somewhere.

Oh, if hit edit and pull up the pictures and tap on the picture you want to delete you will get a "x" and you can delete the picture from there. Like this.

IMG_4533 (resized).PNG

CPR is doing a rerun of just about everything in their back catalogue. If you are patient, you should be able to get what you are looking for...

See here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/announce-cpr-begins-its-new-business-model
And here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-floodgates-open-plastics-amp-glasses-releases

I agree with travish, most likely a shorted segment in one of the display glass. Disconnect player 1 and 2 displays (assuming this resistor is for P1, P2 and master) and start the game. It's unlikely the resistor will burn up as quickly, or at all with the other displays disconnected. Let it run a while and check the temp or that resistor. If it is smoking hot, the glass on your master display board is the culprit. If it doesn't get smoking hot, connect one of the other displays and repeat until you find which display is causing the issue.

Once you find it, use the player 4 glass to replace the broken display until you can get a replacement. Another option is to sell your remaining working displays to fund a new set of led displays.

Best option if you can afford it. Mine look fantastic and you don't need high voltage to power them!

Well, I've still had no luck with the shooter lane eject cam. Here are a few videos that I took. First is if I offset the thing so it hits the ball on the side (still contacts the apron a little). Then I put it back in the middle of the ball and showed what the underside looks like. The last two are of the thing being trapped, and then rocketing out when the apron isn't there. It is incredibly frustrating because it makes the whole rest of the game unplayable!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3oz14bxgnlvg2r/MVI_4155.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/34rj0e7ht3nwem8/MVI_4156.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k60r3dr8xm3yduz/MVI_4157.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hb33ac77vxx0pps/MVI_4158.MOV?dl=0

O.K. here we go again...
Your top trough bracket needs to be upgraded....
Note: old part number B-8245.
------ new part number B-8623.
------ And your plunger....
------ old plunger 02-2364.
------- new plunger 02-3407-2.

I upgraded to 02-3407-2. What's the difference between the trough brackets, and why the change?

They added a hood extension, in order to keep the balls from flying out.

Ahh now I see it in the picture! Thank you!

Why did this happen to him

I think multiple things happened...though I cannot be sure. First: I replaced the arm. I did not realize that the old arm was significantly bent to the side, so that it hit the ball on the angle. Second, my spring was older and less tense, so less force on the ball. Third, the old arm had a pretty worn head where it hit the ball, whereas the new one did not.

However, WHY this is an issue is beyond me. One would think with new parts of the original spec that it would just work properly.

I meant to ask - how did he end up with an older trough part?