Does anyone have a pdf file of the keylines and/or insert decals for firepower they would be willing to share?

this?

firepower inserts decal.pdf

Or, bigger?
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What is that?

Go back to post 350 in this thread. I put them up a long time ago. It may show up as a black image (not sure why) but if you download it, it will be fine.

Never mind, just click on the image that Beatmaster posted and save the file...

Firepower hardtop! Yes! Too bad I've already got a CPR playfield in mine. Maybe I will take the original playfield and put the hardtop on it and see if anyone needs it...

Where do you get one those from ?
Any more still for sale?

Ooooh flip that baby over!

PINBALLGIFTS.COM

Hardtop:
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Installed prototype:
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Final ass'y picture:
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Wow!

This is what i'm looking for, thanks! I really appreciate it.

oh man, how have i not seen this before. I do not want to see this after my many coats of clear, hours of touching up, decals etc. ARRRRGH. Thanks for posting again, it looks really nice.

The current thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hardtops-thread

I started to clean up the Firepower I got, but when I plugged everything back in, I ended up with this two wire molecules plug that I cannot figure out where it goes. I also realized this machine has a rottendog MPU which I have heard mixed things about. Right now everything appears to work, but I can’t seem to get the game to start. I know the guy had it in free play, but I can’t figure out how to start a game :/. (Yes I know where the start button is)

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Never mind on the black+brown molex I found it hidden in the wire nest. Now I just can’t get the game to add credits or free play. Balls installed, and coindoor safety switch is closed.

I played it just before I moved it and it had no issue. :/

The ball trough switches can be finicky. Go into switch test mode with all three balls in there and make sure the switches are all closed. If you've got everything plugged in properly that's where I would start.

Ummmmm…yeah…three balls :/. Ok, it works. I thanks!

I'm trying to get a firepower up and running but not booting. Will it boot with the battery pack cut off?

Battery has no effect on booting. Have a look at this thread to learn how to bullet proof your System 6 board set. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Boot up the game into attract mode.

Gently twist each socketed IC in both directions, like you are tweaking an old-time radio dial.

Whichever IC makes the game freeze is the one that needs a new socket.

Ok! Thanks. I just hope it will get back into attract. Letting all my boards dry before firing back up. Cleaned the edges where connectors were.

Strange. I now getting arcing between pins 3 and 4 on 3j5. It does not show during a continuity test between the pins either.

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There may be enough voltage to bridge that crud between the pins and create a connection with the machine on. The low voltage of the meter might not be enough to make a connection through it. Just like lightning: if there is enough voltage difference, the charge will blast through air, a great insulator normally!

If I recall, Vid recommended clear nail polish in a pinch to cover up errant scratches and such to prevent this once the area is cleaned.

Thanks!

Got it into attract mode and no ic's changed it. Took about 2 min and it locked up though. If it sits a while it will turn on and then fade. The longer I leave it off the more time till it freezes.

Would this indicate power supply? I am gonna check to see if I can sub in my Comet power supply to test.

Just to add to La_Porta's comments: If the arcing were bad enough to create carbon between the pins, you will have to clean out the carbon before sealing it. I had the same issue between two pins, and ended up having to remove the carbon before I lost continuity between the pins. It sounds like you didn't have a lot of carbon, so you should be OK with your boards.

3J5 pin 3 is -100v supply
3J5 pin 4 is +100v supply

200V differential between those 2 pins

Arcing is fairly easy when the voltage differential is 200V. Clean those pads thoroughly with contact cleaner or flux remover. Make sure solder is not extending past the edge of the pads.

Once the game locks up, feel the chips on the CPU and driver boards for one that is unusually hot. If they are just warm, that's normal.

If nothing is hot, I'll bet you have a bad ROM socket or CPU socket and/or dirty legs on your ROM or CPU chips. I replace all the sockets on System 6/7 boards I want bullet proof. Vid's guide calls out Scanbe sockets but I've seen all manufacturers fail on 6/7 boards.

I doubt it is the power supply unless there is a cold solder joint on one of the header pins or components. I would reflow the solder on the header pins of the CPU, Driver, Power supply and sound boards. Better yet, replace the header pins.

Hi fellas, need a quick answer: I’m installing new FIRE rollover switches. I replaced “RE” and now am up to “FI”. However, the FI switches look to me like they are wired incorrectly. Per the diagram (and simple common sense), one would think thay a current would run in, through the diode, into the switch, and out the other relay. Well, the last two look like this:

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The wires connect from one end to the other through the switch, and the diode just grounds off at the common soldering post at the top. Who would do that?? Is it just me or does that make no sense? Someone F this up back when?

Hope this helps

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Wow! Looks like someone soldered a new diode on that switch incorrectly.

Yeah I knew it made no sense. I redid it correctly on my new switches. I think it still worked because a connection was still made just not with the diode.

I've run into a weird issue with my Firepower. The game is resetting when both flippers are activated at the exact same time. It took me awhile to figure out when it was happening. I have a rottendog replacement board. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I've had the board in there for a couple of years and it seems the problem just showed up.

thanks,

Truly odd. It almost looks like it was soldered wrong at the factory.

The way it was wired, It was essentially a switch with a shorted diode. That can cause phantom switch hits in the switch matrix. Since it was one of the top lanes, it probably caused no harm. If it was a trough switch or one of the scoop switches, it probably would have caused more issues.

I don't have direct experience with this but since you have a new RD board, look to the power supply board. I would start with reflowing solder to the connector header pins or better yet, replace them.

Canoncity -

Check the power supply, especially the 5 volts - monitor the voltage and have someone operate both flippers to see if the power dips. You may be better off using an analog meter, but try with a digital. If the power dips, then you found the cause. Otherwise, check the diodes on the flipper coils - I have a machine that eats the coil diodes, and when a diode goes bad, and you flip both flippers, the machine resets. Note you have to lift one end of the diode to check it.
Report back.

I'll check it out and report back. It might be a couple of days. Thanks

Meaning, say, ball #1 (will show 3 balls left in the display) will drain, the score will add up, ball will pop into the shooter lane...but the count will stay at 3?

Balls don’t count down on firepower they count up. Ball one it’s says 1, ball 2 it says 2.....

This game has issues with the trough switches and can pass the ball through from time to time. Do some glass off testing. I’ve seen before that if only a few switches are hit, it gives the ball back. Not consistent though. Not sure why it does that from time to time.

Thanks for the brain fart correction on the counting down...

Check your replace you trough switches. You’re probably not getting good continuity on one or multiple ones.

And whenever troubleshooting individual switch problems on a Firepower, always check that the switch was assembled correctly from the factory. If the large side of the contacts aren't facing each other, you have to disassemble the switch stack and flip a leaf then re-assemble, clean, and adjust.

If you can get hold of the parts, the real solution is to convert the trough to microswitches as they are far more reliable; the leaf switch multiball trough was problematic from the start and it wasn't much later that Williams began using microswitches for that very reason.

Richard

Well, I installed my cliffy protector and replaced my shooter lane ball eject cam arm, and have two problems. One is that the cliffy is too wide by 1/16 inch or so...what I mean by that is if I move it to fit properly over the ball trough, it impeeds the straight firing of the ball by a hair...not Motoblur in play, but will eventually scratch up the balls. If I align it with the shooter lane, then it covers part of the ball trough and impeeds the balls getting all the way to the end of the trough. I’m worried about the latter because...

Now that I changed the cam arm (and coil spring sleeve), the ball rockets out of the trough like a bat out of hell. The problem with that is it is colliding with the underside of the apron and sometimes not even making it into the trough. I’ve tried adjusting the lane width at the exit to no avail. I had a new spring I bought for the mechanism as well, but that put even more power behind the ball. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong adjusting these things. Anyone have suggestions?

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Well I now have a full set of boards for my project! The only thing confirmed to work is the speech board. If you have any tips/upgrades specific to firepower let me know. Looks like I need some roms and a little corrosion work. Can't wait to play this thing!

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Best resource for that: Vid’s Bulletproofing guide. I’d also recommend an NVRAM upgrade, and solenoid fuse board.

You can trim/adjust the cliffy with a belt sander or a large sanding disk with a fine grit disk/belt along the straight edge. I make tons of stuff with a break and shear using stainless steel kick plates used on the bottom of doors and use this method. Something somilier to this. If you don't have access to one you can lay a larger piece of sandpaper flat and rub the edge you want to work back and forth. Works much faster than you would think.
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