(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

5 years ago



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  • 3,055 posts
  • 271 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Outsidedge
  • Topic is favorited by 117 Pinsiders

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There are 3055 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 62.
#2051 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

You put them back on?

I kept top right off.
-mof

#2052 1 year ago

Brought my project game inside!

Cleaning it up tonight had a question - does anyone know what the side art is supposed to represent? Certainly cool but not sure what it's supposed to be.

#2053 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Thanks for the diagrams. Got it fixed. The resistor on one side of switch was not on good. Has any one removed the gate at the top left? I took it off and the game has a nice orbit now. The WPC flipper replacement took care of the weak flippers they are nice and snappy now. Can hit the top lock all the time now.

Glad it worked out! You have quite the assortment there, my friend.

#2054 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Brought my project game inside!
Cleaning it up tonight had a question - does anyone know what the side art is supposed to represent? Certainly cool but not sure what it's supposed to be.

Looks to me like a looping path a ship might take.

1 week later
#2055 1 year ago

Anyone have a good source for direct replacement legs for the cabinet? I was going to work on mine, get the rust off, etc...but it looks like they are nickel coated or something and I think it might be a lot of work. How much would a set of new legs be?

#2056 1 year ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Anyone have a good source for direct replacement legs for the cabinet? I was going to work on mine, get the rust off, etc...but it looks like they are nickel coated or something and I think it might be a lot of work. How much would a set of new legs be?

I believe Pinball Resource have them - not expensive if in USA but the rest of the world pays a hefty freight cost.

#2057 1 year ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Anyone have a good source for direct replacement legs for the cabinet? I was going to work on mine, get the rust off, etc...but it looks like they are nickel coated or something and I think it might be a lot of work. How much would a set of new legs be?

Got mine from pinball life.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4128

#2058 1 year ago

Firepower tech issue. My right flipper has always felt a bit weaker than the left one, even after both were rebuilt about six months ago. Last night the right flipper suddenly just died and then worked again, but only when both flipper buttons were pressed simultaneously. If you just pressed the right flipper button after that it would eventually die again after about five flips.

Now today suddenly the right one is working again just like it did before. It’s still a bit weaker than the left one. I’m not terribly tech savvy but have friends that are. Any idea(s) where to check for the issue?

#2059 1 year ago
Quoted from Masspinballfan:

Firepower tech issue.

I just had this exact thing happen on mine. Bad/flakey EOS switch. Jumper it to see if you get full strength but don't hold the button for long or it will melt the coil. File EOS switch and readjust to make sure enough tension is applied while closed.

#2060 1 year ago

If they were just rebuild I'd suspect the EOS isn't gapped properly as oppose to it being bad. You always need to adjust new EOS switches after a rebuild. If that doesn't work, make sure the solder connections to the coil are thick and solid with no fraying wires. If the wire can't get the full current to the coil you get weak flippers and sometimes blown fuses.

#2061 1 year ago

Another EOS switch vote. Just because it's new and maybe even gapped correctly it still may not have good conductivity. Check/file/jump the switch. If that doesn't work put a meter on the coil wires and check voltage especially if it happens again to see if you still have power.

#2062 1 year ago

Thanks guys. Will have a buddy check it out soon and I’ll report back on the progress.

#2063 1 year ago
Quoted from Masspinballfan:

Thanks guys. Will have a buddy check it out soon and I’ll report back on the progress.

I was having weak flipper. Up did the WPC flipper update now I can hit top lock with no problem.

#2064 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

I was having weak flipper. Up did the WPC flipper update now I can hit top lock with no problem.

Ha! I upgraded as well but I still have a real tough time hitting that top lock. I've tried everything to make it better but it's still so hard.

#2065 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

I was having weak flipper. Up did the WPC flipper update now I can hit top lock with no problem.

In contrast, I have original System 6 flippers, and have no issue hitting anything on the table. I guess it depends on how your hardware is, and if you are getting enough current to the solenoids.

#2066 1 year ago

Playfield angle and EOS switch play a *huge* part in hitting the top lock. I switched to WPC mechs as well, which was an improvement, but was still only hitting the lock about 25% of the time. Coil wiring is fine and EOS switch is new. Flippers feel strong.

My playfield angle was 6.1 degrees, I believe. If I dropped it down to 5.8 degrees my success ratio went up to about 75%. There could be other factors in there as well, such as non-clearcoated playfield, raised arrow inserts, minor deflection from ball guides, but most of the time I could hit the lock.

I tweaked my EOS switch so it barely opens now and I'm able to hit the lock fairly consistently at 5.9 degrees.

#2067 1 year ago

Very happy to end up with one of these, it is missing all the boards and backglass, but the seller might have some boards laying around *fingers crossed
If anyone has replaced their and has one with a bit of flaking I might be interested

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#2068 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Playfield angle and EOS switch play a *huge* part in hitting the top lock. I switched to WPC mechs as well, which was an improvement, but was still only hitting the lock about 25% of the time. Coil wiring is fine and EOS switch is new. Flippers feel strong.
My playfield angle was 6.1 degrees, I believe. If I dropped it down to 5.8 degrees my success ratio went up to about 75%. There could be other factors in there as well, such as non-clearcoated playfield, raised arrow inserts, minor deflection from ball guides, but most of the time I could hit the lock.
I tweaked my EOS switch so it barely opens now and I'm able to hit the lock fairly consistently at 5.9 degrees.

take care. I gapped my highspeed and pinbot too close and it caused the coils to overheat. they are now gapped about 1/8" and they have been good since.

#2069 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Very happy to end up with one of these, it is missing all the boards and backglass, but the seller might have some boards laying around *fingers crossed
If anyone has replaced their and has one with a bit of flaking I might be interested

Looks like you have a lot of work on your hands, but at least the play field artwork looks well intact and in good shape. Good luck! Will love to see a restoration thread on this!

#2070 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Very happy to end up with one of these, it is missing all the boards and backglass, but the seller might have some boards laying around *fingers crossed
If anyone has replaced their and has one with a bit of flaking I might be interested

There has been a FP backglass on craigslist in MA for months now for $50. Maybe try there?

#2071 1 year ago
Quoted from SteveNZ:

take care. I gapped my highspeed and pinbot too close and it caused the coils to overheat. they are now gapped about 1/8" and they have been good since.

Yeah I don't like gapping them that close. I don't worry about heat so much since it won't get continuous play, but I do worry about the adjustment drifting and the switch never opening.

#2072 1 year ago

Does anybody have scans of the CPR lane guide plastics? It'd be cool to make them a decal

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#2073 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Very happy to end up with one of these, it is missing all the boards and backglass, but the seller might have some boards laying around *fingers crossed
If anyone has replaced their and has one with a bit of flaking I might be interested

I’ve got mine that I replaced with a CPR one. Blue sprayed all over the back. If you are willing to wait, I was going to do a bit of restoration and then sell it cheap if you are interested.

#2074 1 year ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Looks like you have a lot of work on your hands, but at least the play field artwork looks well intact and in good shape. Good luck! Will love to see a restoration thread on this!

Thanks! Yeah I was looking for something that needs a lot of work, didnt expect it to have this nice of a playfield though. It has a small amount of wear but I think might just clean it up nice and lay a protector on it. I found all the bumper caps in the box and have no broken plastics. Should be a nice little survivor when I'm done.

Cleaned up a few spots today just to get an idea of what I have to do. I'll start a thread eventually.

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#2075 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Very happy to end up with one of these, it is missing all the boards and backglass, but the seller might have some boards laying around *fingers crossed
If anyone has replaced their and has one with a bit of flaking I might be interested

Awesome - another one coming back to life!

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

#2076 1 year ago

My firepowerseem to go to full volume while playing. Turning volume knob makes no change. After a few games it will go back down. Would this be sound board problem or volume knob? Thanks

#2077 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

My firepowerseem to go to full volume while playing. Turning volume knob makes no change. After a few games it will go back down. Would this be sound board problem or volume knob? Thanks

My FPII would get really loud and go to only background sound. A power off/on would fix it but kept happening. I put the volume knob inside cab thru a full range of motion clockwise/counterclockwise about a dozen times to hopefully clean the contacts inside. Worked, volume has been steady for a year now.

#2078 1 year ago

Question for other FPII owners. My plunger tip is striking the top of the ball in the shooter lane which leads me to think the playfield is too low in the cabinet. Should the square tabs in front of the holes on the lock bar receiver sit higher than the front of the cabinet? I have them flush right now.

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#2079 1 year ago
Quoted from DMC:

Question for other FPII owners. My plunger tip is striking the top of the ball in the shooter lane which leads me to think the playfield is too low in the cabinet. Should the square tabs in front of the holes on the lock bar receiver sit higher than the front of the cabinet? I have them flush right now.

They should be flush. I had a similar issue where the plunger would strike the side of the plunger housing. It was due to the plunger itself being installed at an angle. I'd disassemble it and make sure everything is straight and true.

#2080 1 year ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

They should be flush. I had a similar issue where the plunger would strike the side of the plunger housing. It was due to the plunger itself being installed at an angle. I'd disassemble it and make sure everything is straight and true.

Okay thanks. I’ll have a closer look at the plunger setup.

#2081 1 year ago

Hey guys,

Looking for a new set of speech Roms and I can't seem to find the part number listed where I would expect to see it in the schematics... Any hints? If I can be sure of the part number I can order some and have a friend burn the files.

Also, is there a good retailer that will sell them plug and play? Last set of blackout roms I ordered were bad and I'd rather not use that supplier again...

#2082 1 year ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Hey guys,
Looking for a new set of speech Roms and I can't seem to find the part number listed where I would expect to see it in the schematics... Any hints? If I can be sure of the part number I can order some and have a friend burn the files.
Also, is there a good retailer that will sell them plug and play? Last set of blackout roms I ordered were bad and I'd rather not use that supplier again...

ROM files are here: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=856

#2083 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

My firepowerseem to go to full volume while playing. Turning volume knob makes no change. After a few games it will go back down. Would this be sound board problem or volume knob? Thanks

If all sounds are going up in volume try this - with the game off, turn the lower cabinet volume up and down through the entire range 10 or 20 times.

If that does not work, reseat the volume control connector on the sound board. Might have to reflow the solder on that connector.

If neither resolves it you may have a bad volume control pot or connector at the sound board.

If the sound goes all voice or all sound effects, look at the balance pot on the voice card (small board next to the sound board). Move this pot all the way in both directions 10-20 times and then reset the voice/sound effect balance.

#2084 1 year ago

Anybody have a playfield scan they can share? I'm contemplating repainting my playfield...

#2085 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Anybody have a playfield scan they can share? I'm contemplating repainting my playfield...

I believe there are some nice playfield scans posted in this thread on an earlier page.

#2086 1 year ago

Has anyone lit the start button or replaced with lit button?

#2087 1 year ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Has anyone lit the start button or replaced with lit button?

Yep mine is lit!

#2088 1 year ago

Insight into how, with what appreciated?
Thinking adding a socket and a led would not be very bright?
Thank You

#2089 1 year ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Insight into how, with what appreciated?
Thinking adding a socket and a led would not be very bright?
Thank You

Use a clear flipper button. I put some clear tubing and a washer inside the c-clip so the light shines through.

You can see a few of my lighting mods here:

Post flashers -

Happy to answer more questions...

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IMG_20150929_193246 (resized).jpg

#2090 1 year ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Use a clear flipper button. I put some clear tubing and a washer inside the c-clip so the light shines through.
Happy to answer more questions...

Very clever, thanks for sharing!

#2091 1 year ago

Yes Sir Thank You

#2092 1 year ago

How does the sling flashing work on each switch hit?

thanks,
mof

#2093 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

How does the sling flashing work on each switch hit?
thanks,
mof

I used these post lights (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1995) and wired them to the slings and the pop bumpers. I would have to double check but I think the wires are soldered right to the tabs on the coils. Quite simple actually.

#2094 1 year ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

I used these post lights (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1995) and wired them to the slings and the pop bumpers. I would have to double check but I think the wires are soldered right to the tabs on the coils. Quite simple actually.

Just run the wires thru the opening that the slingshot armature passes through? Or are you drilling a separate hole to pass the wires down under?

#2095 1 year ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

to double check

Wait but what triggers the light?

#2096 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Wait but what triggers the light?

I believe it is the impulse from the return wires that go to each solenoid.

#2097 1 year ago

I do not follow. I would like to learn how to do this...
-mof

#2098 1 year ago

I took it as the voltage that powers the solenoid powers the light?

#2099 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Wait but what triggers the light?

The driver board triggers the sling solenoid to fire and the star post light is wired in parallel with the sling coil.

Use 12V star post lights. Wire the positive side of the star post to the positive lug on the sling solenoid (the one with the banded side of the diode) and the negative lead of the star post light to the other solenoid lug.

https://cointaker.com/products/post-light-leds

#2100 1 year ago
Quoted from swillie:

Just run the wires thru the opening that the slingshot armature passes through?

I think I have the wires running through the closest switch to the post. No additional holes were drilled.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

The driver board triggers the sling solenoid to fire and the star post light is wired in parallel with the sling coil.

I believe that schwaggs is correct. If I recall correctly the Pinball Life post light gave you two options for wiring. You could either connect it to the GI and have it always on or connect it to something like a coil to get it to flash when the coil became energized. I think there was even a way to keep them lit all the time and make them flash. I will see if I still have the wiring instructions at home.

I will also take a few pictures of the install on the top and bottom of the playfield.

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