(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

4 years ago



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There are 2164 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 44.
#1951 4 months ago

Speaking of stickers...we should make some sort of document that tells us where all of the little stickers go on our cabinets, under the playfield, etc...I would like to know that sort of thing as well.

#1952 4 months ago
Quoted from DMC:

A bit more help please FPII owners. The bulb under MATCH in my back box is always on during attract mode. As such the paint on the back glass has disintegrated over the years. Is this how it’s meant to be? Also I found a couple of stickers in the bottom of the cabinet when I bought the game and I want to stick them back whence they came. Any ideas where?

I think that bulb blinks in attract mode but now im curious to see when i get home later. I will also look for those stickers too and post back if nobody else has already.

Edit: watched a TNT video, match light blinks. Probably a bad SCR on mpu?

#1953 4 months ago

Doing my plastic swap on the playfield and need a little help with the metal stands that attaches to the plastic that says mission: multi-ball destruction. Can you remove them from the old one and reuse them on the new? If so how? Before I go messing up anything I thought I would ask here.Thanks!

E2507E9E-654E-4F99-9E1D-BCA94D0D0FB5 (resized).jpeg

#1954 4 months ago
Quoted from PonchoPinDude:

Can you remove them from the old one and reuse them on the new? If so how? Before I go messing up anything I thought I would ask here.Thanks!

Heat the plastic with a shrink tubing gun and slightly pull metal stand off at an angel.
Next reshape flared tip to make it easier to insert new plastic.

#1955 4 months ago

Gang:

I am in the middle of restoring my lock down receiver bar, and know that at one point there was a warning decal measuring 6" by 7/8" across the top.

Will someone please provide me a photo of said decal so that I can make a reproduction? It had something to do with lifting the playfield and is not available on inkochito's site.

Thanks in advance!

#1956 4 months ago
Quoted from PonchoPinDude:

Doing my plastic swap on the playfield and need a little help with the metal stands that attaches to the plastic that says mission: multi-ball destruction. Can you remove them from the old one and reuse them on the new? If so how? Before I go messing up anything I thought I would ask here.Thanks!

Like the guy above said, heat till they come out. If you don’t care about the old plastic , 600 degrees works well. You will see there is a lip that was crimped on the top. I used a file 360 deg. around the edge until I could twist it into the new plastic’s hole snugly. That’s all you need: screwing it down will further secure it.

#1957 4 months ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Gang:
I am in the middle of restoring my lock down receiver bar, and know that at one point there was a warning decal measuring 6" by 7/8" across the top.
Will someone please provide me a photo of said decal so that I can make a reproduction? It had something to do with lifting the playfield and is not available on inkochito's site.
Thanks in advance!

IMG_4064 (resized).JPG

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=PDG356

#1958 4 months ago

I need help with my backglass key please. The key will only turn about 3/4, and I can't remove backglass. I believe the center bracket is preventing the backglass from lifting up.

backglass holder (resized).jpg

key (resized).jpg

#1959 4 months ago
Quoted from PonchoPinDude:

Can you remove them from the old one and reuse them on the new?

If I remember correctly, I think I took a drill bit and gently drilled the top lip off and removed the metal stand. This results in no damage to the old plastic if you want to keep it or sell it. You can then take the metal stand and twist it into the hole in the new plastic. Once you put the screw back in and tighten it up, it won't move.

#1960 4 months ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Like the guy above said, heat till they come out. If you don’t care about the old plastic , 600 degrees works well. You will see there is a lip that was crimped on the top. I used a file 360 deg. around the edge until I could twist it into the new plastic’s hole snugly. That’s all you need: screwing it down will further secure it.

Thank you!

#1961 4 months ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

I need help with my backglass key please. The key will only turn about 3/4, and I can't remove backglass. I believe the center bracket is preventing the backglass from lifting up.

Grab a helper. Have one person manually lift the glass up out of the channel as gently as possible. The other person can turn the key up and down until hopefully you both get in sync and the key will then turn all the way and you can take the b/g out if that’s your goal here.

#1962 4 months ago

Guys, I’m still learning and have a little problem. I keep blowing the 3 amp fuse that drives the solenoids (except flippers I think). So a ball will get stuck in the lock holes and that’s why I thought a game wouldn’t start. It was actually the fuse. So, any idea where to start troubleshooting that? I’ve done some board work on my lotr, but I’m not great at diagnosis and theory yet.

#1963 4 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

I think that bulb blinks in attract mode but now im curious to see when i get home later. I will also look for those stickers too and post back if nobody else has already.
Edit: watched a TNT video, match light blinks. Probably a bad SCR on mpu?

Thanks for your help.

#1964 4 months ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

I need help with my backglass key please. The key will only turn about 3/4, and I can't remove backglass. I believe the center bracket is preventing the backglass from lifting up.

A lot of times this is due to backbox sag. Try gently pushing upwards on the top edge of the backbox, while you turn the key, see if that helps you turn it all the way back. Of course be gentle with every step you take as you don't want to rake a dragging lock assembly across the top of the glass, especially if it happens to be missing the protective plastic channel.

Richard

#1965 4 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Guys, I’m still learning and have a little problem. I keep blowing the 3 amp fuse that drives the solenoids (except flippers I think). So a ball will get stuck in the lock holes and that’s why I thought a game wouldn’t start. It was actually the fuse. So, any idea where to start troubleshooting that? I’ve done some board work on my lotr, but I’m not great at diagnosis and theory yet.

This should actually be a 2.5A slo-blow fuse. Someone incorrectly put a 3A fuse in there, so be sure they also didn't substitute an incorrect type of fuse - a non-slo-blow will not last. Get the correct 2.5A SB's and see how it does. If it's blowing those, you likely have a boardset issue. If the boards haven't gone through the typical "bulletproofing" measures, they'll need to be done - replace interconnects, any other sketchy headers, resolder all the headers, and more.

Richard

#1966 4 months ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

This should actually be a 2.5A slo-blow fuse. Someone incorrectly put a 3A fuse in there, so be sure they also didn't substitute an incorrect type of fuse

When I went through bulletproofing my boards, every...single...fuse in the entire back box was the wrong rating.

Some people will throw anything they have in there to keep the machine going.

#1967 4 months ago

Considering selling my machine w cpr FP installed but I think all the Chicago guys have one. Entertaining offers.

#1968 4 months ago

@travish Thanks for the help on the decal!

#1969 4 months ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Considering selling my cpr FP but I think all the Chicago guys have one. Entertaining offers.

The playfield or a whole game?

#1970 4 months ago

Newbie here, just picked up a pretty decent fire power. I hope I am posting in the correct forum. As an HVAC technician I have no problems with electro mechanical things and was able to get the machine working just fine however the inserts are raising and cupped so My first order of business is to fix that so it doesn’t affect play. That being said I am not much of an artist so I’m a little nervous about messing with the playfield. Hopefully some of you can chime in and tell me some good do,s and don’ts. I’m definitely a DIY guy so not interested in paying to have it fixed proper even though I could afford to do so.
For the inserts:
My first thought was to fill them with nail polish or superglue but after Watching some videos on the site I have decided to remove the inserts and sand them down and reinstall. I successfully removed almost all the inserts (some of them I plan on leaving because they’re not that bad.) After sanding my first eight Big ones I can tell you I am not looking forward to sanding those little bitty ones. I almost think it would be better to buy a new set it’s a lot of work sanding them suckers flat and smooth!
I purchased some lock tight superglue after watching a video and that’s what the guy used. my question is would it be better to use some sort of Epoxy because that is what was in there originally? See picture of brand and type of super glue I purchased and intend on using, again I don’t want to do any damage so looking for the wealth of knowledge on the site to help me with the proper techniques.
I guess the answer to my next question depends on how far I want to go with this thing but as you can see in the picture there is some wear and although the machine is in good condition mechanically, The playfield has some serious issues that need addressed depending on how much I want to do to the machine.
My initial thought was to just get a sharpie and touch up the dark spots and maybe trying to hand paint some areas but again I’m not much of an artist. If I do that is it possible to just re-clear certain areas (seems like a bad idea) or how do I protect the restored paint? I am not against stripping the machine down and I’m fully confident that I could do so although I never have and I bought another machine to play while I work on this one. I have seen several videos of people doing touch up work and was less than impressed, as a person with OCD I’m pretty sure I wont be happy with something that looks crappy or hand painted. Even though I plan on keeping it forever and this is not something I’m trying to make money at . Any advice on how to touch up the paint would be much appreciated thanks

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#1971 4 months ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

The playfield or a whole game?

He's fixed his post for the whole game. I PM'd about the playfield but it is already installed...

#1972 4 months ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

Newbie here, just picked up a pretty decent fire power. I hope I am posting in the correct forum. As an HVAC technician I have no problems with electro mechanical things and was able to get the machine working just fine however the inserts are raising and cupped so My first order of business is to fix that so it doesn’t affect play. That being said I am not much of an artist so I’m a little nervous about messing with the playfield. Hopefully some of you can chime in and tell me some good do,s and don’ts. I’m definitely a DIY guy so not interested in paying to have it fixed proper even though I could afford to do so.
For the inserts:
My first thought was to fill them with nail polish or superglue but after Watching some videos on the site I have decided to remove the inserts and sand them down and reinstall. I successfully removed almost all the inserts (some of them I plan on leaving because they’re not that bad.) After sanding my first eight Big ones I can tell you I am not looking forward to sanding those little bitty ones. I almost think it would be better to buy a new set it’s a lot of work sanding them suckers flat and smooth!
I purchased some lock tight superglue after watching a video and that’s what the guy used. my question is would it be better to use some sort of Epoxy because that is what was in there originally? See picture of brand and type of super glue I purchased and intend on using, again I don’t want to do any damage so looking for the wealth of knowledge on the site to help me with the proper techniques.
I guess the answer to my next question depends on how far I want to go with this thing but as you can see in the picture there is some wear and although the machine is in good condition mechanically, The playfield has some serious issues that need addressed depending on how much I want to do to the machine.
My initial thought was to just get a sharpie and touch up the dark spots and maybe trying to hand paint some areas but again I’m not much of an artist. If I do that is it possible to just re-clear certain areas (seems like a bad idea) or how do I protect the restored paint? I am not against stripping the machine down and I’m fully confident that I could do so although I never have and I bought another machine to play while I work on this one. I have seen several videos of people doing touch up work and was less than impressed, as a person with OCD I’m pretty sure I wont be happy with something that looks crappy or hand painted. Even though I plan on keeping it forever and this is not something I’m trying to make money at . Any advice on how to touch up the paint would be much appreciated thanks

@heaterguy , check out Vid's guide on playfield restoration: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration ... Thread has a ton of valuable information, tips, tricks, and the like.

-Rob
-check out my Kickstarter at https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...d?ref=3De36051
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

#1973 4 months ago

I have a perfect Cpr Firepower I would trade for a Cpr Black Knight or cpr Flash Gordon or a nice frontier pf.

#1974 4 months ago
Quoted from DMC:

A bit more help please FPII owners. The bulb under MATCH in my back box is always on during attract mode. As such the paint on the back glass has disintegrated over the years. Is this how it’s meant to be? Also I found a couple of stickers in the bottom of the cabinet when I bought the game and I want to stick them back whence they came. Any ideas where?

Checked my game...match bulb does stay on solid in attract mode once you've completed a game. If your set to freeplay in home setting I would just disable the match feature.

As for those stickers, i could find neither of them in my cabinet. Sorry.

#1975 4 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

Checked my game...match bulb does stay on solid in attract mode once you've completed a game. If your set to freeplay in home setting I would just disable the match feature.
As for those stickers, i could find neither of them in my cabinet. Sorry.

Thanks, much appreciated.

#1976 4 months ago

So speaking of hotdog inserts... Why would my original playfield have a blue FIRE insert and a red POWER insert? I've never seen another one like it. Don't have a pic handy at the moment.

-Steve

#1977 4 months ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

I guess the answer to my next question depends on how far I want to go with this thing

Yes, definitely, that's the right question.

You have plenty of work to do on that playfield. If the game is mechanically and electronically sound, you have to decide how much you want to sink into it. My Firepower has almost $3K into it, which I never expected to spend and never expect to recoup. You mentioned that you aren't an artist so that leaves you with a couple of other options. I'm pretty sure that Outside Edge is doing a hard top for this game. Keep an eye on this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hardtop-playfield-new-product-announcement-poll-included

That would probably run you another $300. You're already doing all the necessary work on the inserts to level them off or replace them. Doing a top side tear down and sanding the playfield isn't a huge undertaking. The install of these hardtops seems to be fairly simple after that. And the reviews on how the games play have been nothing but positive. The other option is a CPR playfield (only 150 of them made) but that will run you closer to $1000 if you can get your hands on one.

I'm working on a Black Knight, just waiting for the hardtop. This was a much more cost effective method to end up with a really nice, playable game. And sorry to the traditionalists out there who think sanding down a playfield is blasphemy. You gotta do what works for you!

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#1978 4 months ago

It's your game, man. Yours to enjoy the way you want. Sand on and enjoy!

#1979 4 months ago

You don't necessarily have to sand it down to whitewood. The playfield needs to be smooth. So all the lips on the screw holes, etc need to be sanded down. Any graphics on inserts have to be sanded off (the Hardtop is clear with new graphics over the inserts). Any areas that are clear on the Hardtop so the playfield wood shows thru you'll want to sand an area so no old paint shows (for example, on BK around the outside lower outlane switch wires). I would probably give the whole playfield at least a good once over but if the paint is solid you don't have to sand it off. I've done 2. One I sanded entirely to whitewood. The other, Black Knight, I left some paint - particularly near edges like the ramp attachment points. I did not want to bevel that edge.

Then there's the opposite situation. Any area below the surface needs to be brought up to level. This primarily applies to dished inserts but I found a couple impact divits, too. The Hardtop is going to "bridge" a low spot which probably won't turn out well over time if the bridge allows the ball to flex the Hardtop. Small things like an extra screw hole or something I wouldn't worry about.

#1980 4 months ago
Quoted from VDrums2112:

So speaking of hotdog inserts... Why would my original playfield have a blue FIRE insert and a red POWER insert? I've never seen another one like it. Don't have a pic handy at the moment.
-Steve

Assembly error. Haven't seen one like this before but it's not out of the question. They made 17K of these so there are bound to be a few variances over the run! I myself have seen two examples where the 3 blue "Power" target inserts are incorrect. I believe I saw one in this thread that the middle was blue, and outer two were a pale maroon color. I had a playfield similar but opposite - outer two were blue, middle was maroon. I think it's the one I removed from a burnt machine (playfield was untouched but backbox, boardset was ruined; lower cab had minor marks and it went on to save another game.) Playfield was pretty nice other than minor wear up top above the rollovers; if I recall I sold it on ebay back in '05. Wish I had better pics but you can see those inserts -

Richard

fp_pf2.jpg

fpinsert.jpg

#1981 4 months ago

I played several Firepower's back in the day, and like you guys have shown, Williams supplier did not
have good quality control. At the time, it was more or less, just glue the insert however you like and
move the playfield down the assembly line. If an insert was "out-of-stock" they would use a like
substitute. Remember, the coin op industry was designed for coin operators and not the home market.

#1982 4 months ago

since i'm in the middle of my restoration, might as well make some new instructions/free play cards.

there you go guys.

Firepower free play card (final) (resized).jpg

Firepower Instructions card (final) (resized).jpg

#1983 4 months ago

Back in '05 I had a spare Alien Poker that I gave to my dad to keep in his house. I ended up trading it off maybe a year later for a beater Firepower figuring they would dig the multiball and that it would have more replay value for them. Well, the FP ended up having numerous problems, but the biggest was that someone did the "memory capacitor" hack to it and it wouldn't keep the CMOS more than a few days. Explaining to the old man how to open it up, cycle power, add credits, etc. was a bigger chore than you might imagine, plus they had lost the coin door key. Game needed some upkeep anyway so I had him bring it to me on a trip he was already making (they live about 700 miles away.)

Since then I've redone all the boards, replaced the balls, tweaked a few switches here and there, got the game up and running and figured I was done. Instead of relying on the cap hack and didn't want to put batteries back in that they would forget to change, I hooked back up a credit button that someone had drilled into the coin door ages ago. Just now I replaced the 5101 with a Pinitech NVRAM and removed the cap hack from the battery holder area.

Thought I was good to go, until I decided to run a few more test games on it while it's been sitting here in my office going on 2+ years now - anyway got multiball (even though I had some jackets and crap piled up over the top half of the playfield!) locked one of the balls again and it never kicked out. OK, fine, more switches to mess with. Propped up the field and discovered I had forgotten to deal with all the backwards-assembled switches in the game, except the trough, which I had originally done when I got the machine.

ARGGGGHHHHHH

So I just finished the ball lock switches and now I'm off to do the rest...they're ALL backwards...all of them...except the locks and the trough.

Richard

#1984 4 months ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

I hooked back up a credit button

Sounds like fun times! Those trough switches suck so I'm going to see if I can replace them with micro switches as was posted in this thread a little ways back. I'm not sure why anyone puts a credit button on these games. There's a free play setting that can be configured. Have a look at the documentation, I believe it's setting 18. My game is set to 13 credits (my lucky number) in the window but it never changes.

#1985 4 months ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Since then I've redone all the boards, replaced the balls, tweaked a few switches here and there, got the game up and running and figured I was done. Instead of relying on the cap hack and didn't want to put batteries back in that they would forget to change, I hooked back up a credit button that someone had drilled into the coin door ages ago. Just now I replaced the 5101 with a Pinitech NVRAM and removed the cap hack from the battery holder area.

Since you have NVRAM installed, change the "Max Credits" setting from default of 20 to zero and you don't need to ever mess with credits again. It is indeed setting 18 like @dzorbas said.

Only drawback is that when you earn credits or extra balls (score triggers, match, special, FIRE lane multiplier, etc), the knocker will not fire.

#1986 4 months ago

Indeed, I already set the games for free play. I had just hooked back up the hacked-in credit button previously because it was there. Once someone drills a hole through the coin door...ugh. Anyway..

I think credit button hacks are common once games made it to home use many years back, done by people that did not understand the settings menu. It is a bit cryptic without the booklet, and even with, it's somewhat tricky at first on the early Wms games until you understand how it works. Then there's all the games (typically video games, other brands) that simply don't have a freeplay setting, so some people probably assume that's how all of them are.

The trough microswitch upgrade is definitely worthwhile. Williams figured this out back in 1981 with BKLE since they doubled the trouble with two leaf switch troughs in the original BK. I can only imagine what kind of attention BK needed on route once the switches started to wear. What stinks now is it seems that microswitch trough plate with the wireforms and all can be a little tricky to find, much like many other older parts. I pirated mine off an old playfield; wonder if I have another in storage somewhere for my dad's Firepower.

Richard

#1987 4 months ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

The trough microswitch upgrade is definitely worthwhile.

Sorry Richard, I didn't realize it was you that posted the pictures of the microswitches! Useful info though!

#1988 4 months ago

Thanks for the instructions cards, they are very nice !

#1989 4 months ago

So when I went to glue the inserts in I noticed they were falling down and and I was worried that even with two-part epoxy being a thick gel they would sink. See first picture of sunken insert. I took plumber's putty and put four little shimmed " landing pads". Then trimmed off the excess with a razor blade (see pictures) I then put the two-part epoxy in with a toothpick carefully in between the plumbers putty, it worked really well, set them in place and gently pushed down with a soft but firm and level painters stick handle. Now they are all smooth and perfectly set.

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20180217_160947 (resized).jpg

#1990 4 months ago

That's above and beyond anything I ever did! I actually did have one sink in after...as long as you fill with 2PAC, it's just fine.

#1991 4 months ago

As mentioned in previous posts, buy with confidence from Planetary. I had a few minor issues with my FP backglass, I want to thank Rick from Planetary as well as exemplary customer service and help from Bruce at Outside Edge. They took care of the issues and kept me in the loop during the process as well as explained to me how these products are made. Keep up the great work and thanks for allowing me to appreciate this hobby even more!

#1992 4 months ago

Overall I am very happy with my new repro backglass, I think the colours are generally really great both unlit & lit & certainly as good as you will get compared to others I have seen. One thing I noticed however on mine was using standard #47 bulbs all the filaments of the bulbs could be seen through the glass, as spots which I found it a bit distracting to otherwise a perfect backglass & I just wanted to try to get the lighting looking spot on for me.

I tried warm white leds which stood out more, in the end I tried white bulb caps/condoms on all the #47 bulbs, this worked great, it diffused the filament spotting, I think it looks spot on now.

I did a comparison with just switching the bulbs behind the "E & R" letters only.

First pic is general lighting with the caps on.

Second pic is with leds (bright spots that can be seen in the middle of the letters are not reflections & the letters went a bit pink too)

Third pic is with #47 bulbs with caps on, (caps are on the other bulbs as well) looks perfect

Fourth pic is with straight #47 bulbs (bright spots that can be seen in the middle of the letters are not reflections)

Fifth pic is an overall shot with the caps on the #47 globes, looks excellent (their are some reflections)

IMG_7211 (resized).JPG
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IMG_7191 (resized).JPG
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IMG_7217 (resized).JPG

#1993 4 months ago

The old repro backglass (no idea who made them, got it in the very early 2000's - maybe Mayfair?) was very bad about hot spots from the lighting, with regular old 47's in the backboard. This was years before anybody was messing with LED's in pins, so I didn't try any. Didn't go for bulb condoms either as eventually I ended up with another machine that had a nice original glass in it.

On that old one, you could actually see the filaments of the bulbs if you looked closely. The one in your game looks much better, at least from the pics!

Richard

firepwr8.jpg

#1994 4 months ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

On that old one, you could actually see the filaments of the bulbs if you looked closely. The one in your game looks much better, at least from the pics!

Yes that looks worse from that pic, it is more noticeable in person than the pic, the majority of the other backboard bulb filaments can be seen to a degree as well which makes it distracting, or maybe I am just too fussy! I tend to look for perfection where possible, which I have found with this backglass lighting.

#1995 4 months ago

I'll admit, mine is different, but I tweaked it a bit using red/orange LEDs behind "FIREPOWER", and soft white bulbs behind the Williams logo. I'll show you when I get a chance.

#1996 4 months ago

God i love my FIREPOWER!

#1997 4 months ago

Here with the lights off:
F2559306-5EAF-47C7-9A3B-F84ABFB92E0E (resized).jpeg

And on:
5EB8BE17-819E-40AB-BD65-4AF68ADFD9A2 (resized).jpeg

#1998 3 months ago

Super stoked I just scored 1397100 on Firepower! (3 ball play)
I have yet to earn a free ball however.

#1999 3 months ago

That beats me. Put in the six digit score custom roms months ago, (score is divided by 10), and only just recently got a single million point plus score. Get lots of fast draining balls on this game, especially if the kicker isn't lit.

#2000 3 months ago

So tonight I got 1355700 which is not quite as good as last night however I got awarded a free ball which is extremely difficult I love this machine!

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