(Topic ID: 70775)
Linked Games
Firepower
Williams, 1980-
Firepower II
Williams, 1983
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Quoted from AlexSMendes:Clearly pinsider swillie didn't like the pics I posted, so I deleted them... as I ain't got this machine, I really don't know which plastics antennaejim is referencing.
Anyway, like I stated before, if anyone interested, just PM me and I'll be glad to give every info about the set (and send the pics)!
Sorry AlexS I really did not mean to offend. The pics were fine, it just struck me as ironic/funny that the inlanes were the only ones not there. I don't have this machine either, i just looked at the play field pics on the thread to see what they looked like. I bet a lot of these sets were bought just for the topper and inlanes, as well as the slingshots and 1000 point plastic which you have. I'm sure someone looking to replace them will be interested in what you have, they look mint.
Quoted from Antennaejim:Here are some pics of the cpr reproduction plastics for those that have not seen them before.
Looks like this set has one too many parts!
No, the inlanes weren't provided since they are not really original to the game, but give me some hi-res scans and they'll surely be included!
Oh, that huge topper and the promo/key-chains can be made too! Same reasoning here...
Quoted from swillie:Sorry AlexS I really did not mean to offend. The pics were fine, it just struck me as ironic/funny that the inlanes were the only ones not there. I don't have this machine either, i just looked at the play field pics on the thread to see what they looked like. I bet a lot of these sets were bought just for the topper and inlanes, as well as the slingshots and 1000 point plastic which you have. I'm sure someone looking to replace them will be interested in what you have, they look mint.
Ok man, we're good! I was a little too harsh as well...
East Aurora, NY
Quoted from Masspinballfan:Thank you man. I guess I'll go with the Classic Arcade ones.
I purchased the set of classic arcades. Not 100% exactly perfect, the lines don't end exactly where the originals do, but the difference is imperceptible unless you are REALLY looking. I'll include a picture. If you look at a photo of the originals, the innermost red line ends up top past the Williams W...on the repros, the lines end slightly lower than the W. It's much better than dingy ones. They are on eBay right now:
Newcastle
Yea the Arcade Classic ones look like the closest PB caps you can get that resemble the originals. Thanks man.
Quoted from La_Porta:I purchased the set of classic arcades. Not 100% exactly perfect, the lines don't end exactly where the originals do, but the difference is imperceptible unless you are REALLY looking. I'll include a picture. If you look at a photo of the originals, the innermost red line ends up top past the Williams W...on the repros, the lines end slightly lower than the W. It's much better than dingy ones. They are on eBay right now:ebay.com link » Firepower Pinball Machine Pop Bumper Cap Set
Quoted from BDAWG:Does someone make a playfield decal for FP II?
If you want to make your own, I have a very high resolution version of the playfield you can have. you can see a 72 dpi preview of it here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-firepower-club/page/30#post-3891623
PM me if you want it.
Quoted from Outsidedge:Hello Firepower folks! This is Bruce from Outside Edge.... and we are working on a project for PPS to produce shiny new back glasses. Through our research and provided specimens from the field we have (for about the millionth time) uncovered apparent variations that exist in the originals. This leaves us troubled, as there will only be a run produced to match one or the other. Look at my picture..... I have actually seen more of the "dark red" versions so far than the more "bright red" ... leading me to believe the darker is probably the one that there are more of (and possibly expected by the would be buyer)..... HOWEVER... I have traded emails with Greg Freres... and he believes that the BRIGHTER glass is what was intended. I also have to agree that the bright red is a better looking glass.
That being said... please respond with some opinions as to which we should match. I am either going to disappoint the "dark red" camp... or the "bright red camp" ... but I have o choose one.
Any update?
Picked up my restored FP and all I can say is wow! New PB caps should be here Monday. The only issue now is my backglass looks lousy and I want to replace it and not wait for BG resto to repair this one.
Where's the best place to get a nice replacement FP backglass?..Mayfair amusements?
Quoted from Masspinballfan:Picked up my restored FP and all I can say is wow! New PB caps should be here Monday. The only issue now is my backglass looks lousy and I want to replace it and not wait for BG resto to repair this one.
Where's the best place to get a nice replacement FP backglass?..Mayfair amusements?
Mayfair still has them but you might want to wait just a little more. Pps is about to have another repro out and possibly cheaper with the correct colors. See post number 1506 in this thread.
Quoted from Travish:Mayfair still has them but you might want to wait just a little more. Pps is about to have another repro out and possibly cheaper with the correct colors. See post number 1506 in this thread.
Thanks Travish. Yea I'd be definitely interested in ordering one from Pps as well.
Quoted from Outsidedge:Hello Firepower folks! This is Bruce from Outside Edge.... and we are working on a project for PPS to produce shiny new back glasses. Through our research and provided specimens from the field we have (for about the millionth time) uncovered apparent variations that exist in the originals. This leaves us troubled, as there will only be a run produced to match one or the other. Look at my picture..... I have actually seen more of the "dark red" versions so far than the more "bright red" ... leading me to believe the darker is probably the one that there are more of (and possibly expected by the would be buyer)..... HOWEVER... I have traded emails with Greg Freres... and he believes that the BRIGHTER glass is what was intended. I also have to agree that the bright red is a better looking glass.
That being said... please respond with some opinions as to which we should match. I am either going to disappoint the "dark red" camp... or the "bright red camp" ... but I have o choose one.
Can we some how ask Steve Ritchie what was supposed to be the correct colour glass?
I'm working on swapping a CPR playfield into my game and wonder if someone could help me out. My playfield is only drilled for 3 posts behind the 4-6 targets but I see most originals and some CPRs drilled for 4. My original has 4 there. Anyone know for sure if 3 or 4 were originally used? I can see why you might want a fourth there to shape the rubber and perhaps avoid a ball trap situation under that lower right pop. The area on the playfield does have a slight shape to it.
Quoted from Toyguy:I'm working on swapping a CPR playfield into my game and wonder if someone could help me out. My playfield is only drilled for 3 posts behind the 4-6 targets but I see most originals and some CPRs drilled for 4. My original has 4 there. Anyone know for sure if 3 or 4 were originally used? I can see why you might want a fourth there to shape the rubber and perhaps avoid a ball trap situation under that lower right pop. The area on the playfield does have a slight shape to it.
Here's mine.
Do any FP owners who have the new updated FP software Roms installed know if you can stack extra balls if you play really well on one ball and advance through a few modes?
I had a really successful ball on a game last night and I then had an extra ball awarded for the next "two" balls in play and not just one.
Hi all,
I finally fixed my master display board and got a replacement plasma score display, and would like to put the original-style displays back into my game. But I have a wire that popped out of the harness somewhere, and am not sure where it belongs.
It is single separate wire, separate from each display's harness, with discreet barrel connectors. It sort of daisy-chains one display to the next, along a Brown&White wire, and the feed wire becomes Black&White. This black wire has marks where it popped out of its source IDC connector on the master display... and I don't know which that would be.
The schematics say that Black is the Cathode keep-alive while Brown is the Anode. But since there are multiple keep-alives on the master display board (not to mention the wire changing from black to brown), I'm not sure where it belongs.
Thank you LaPorta and Travish!
Those pics are exactly what I needed. And I feel better that while looking at the schematic, my best guestimaterpretive hunch said "Hmm, I bet that keep-alive input on J7 is the one" would have been correct.
All hooked up properly and everything seems to work... save one glitch: Anybody have any ideas why one single digit would be noticeably brighter than the others? Its the "ones" place for Player 1. Swapping displays makes no change. I'd hoped that keep-alive cable might have something to do with it but no dice.
That bright digit is the last glitch in my original boards. I've now successfully rebuilt just about every aspect of this former wreck, including both sound boards, the MPU and the Driver board. Seems appropriate that in the end it's down to just one digit burning bright like the sun. Well, not quite *that* bright since that cracks the glass (ask me how I know) but, yeah.
Can you get us a picture of it? I’ll check my schematics tonight as well, if I get a chance tonight. Sorry for the delays: with kids, my mothers birthday, etc...spare time is hard to come by!
Quoted from goingincirclez:"one of these things is not like the others...."
Which style master display board do you have, the one with tons of discrete transistors (more rare) or the common one with the chips?
Assuming you have the common one, since the one's digit on Player 3 is not extra bright, I would think IC11 - one of the UDN6184
Quoted from Groucho:Can we some how ask Steve Ritchie what was supposed to be the correct colour glass?
I've seen both but assumed the "correct" color would match the bright red on the playfield and that the dark red was a by product of the long production run. That is what I would vote for even though mine had the dark.
Quoted from KJL:I've seen both but assumed the "correct" color would match the bright red on the playfield and that the dark red was a by product of the long production run. That is what I would vote for even though mine had the dark.
I agree, I would rather the bright colors. Just thinking back, it was the late 70's, early 80's...everything was loud colors...who would this be any different?
Quoted from goingincirclez:"one of these things is not like the others...."
Yes, the master display board close up and the wiring harness attach points on the master/first player display would be great. I'll take some shots of my own to make sure that they match. I'll also look at the schematics.
I need to do waterslide decals on my restoration. There was no way I was going to be able to spray the letters so I either cleaned up the lettering via a scan or I replaced it with the Data 70 font that's available free. It's the closest font I've seen but at the same time, the lettering is ALL OVER THE PLACE ON THIS PLAYFIELD. Upside down 1's, 0's, O's... it's nuts. Look at the differences in the 10,000 the 30,000 and the 50,000 zeros! I included a fixed flipped 100 score in the file and then I realized many of the scores on the playfield have incorrect numbers.
Anyway if anyone wants the PSD or the higher quality PDF to work with these further feel free to ask.
Quoted from alexmogil:I need to do waterslide decals on my restoration. There was no way I was going to be able to spray the letters so I either cleaned up the lettering via a scan or I replaced it with the Data 70 font that's available free. It's the closest font I've seen but at the same time, the lettering is ALL OVER THE PLACE ON THIS PLAYFIELD. Upside down 1's, 0's, O's... it's nuts. Look at the differences in the 10,000 the 30,000 and the 50,000 zeros! I included a fixed flipped 100 score in the file and then I realized many of the scores on the playfield have incorrect numbers.
Anyway if anyone wants the PSD or the higher quality PDF to work with these further feel free to ask.
That is incredible! I never noticed that in all my years of playing FP. Thanks for sharing!
It really is incredible what a cluster some of that was. They must have been pushing like mad to get the thing out the door.
Quoted from alexmogil:Upside down 1's, 0's, O's... it's nuts.
The joys of doing fonts by cut and past by hand.
I just booted my firepower II up after moving last month. When I did, magic smoke started coming out if the pinitech NVRAM module I had installed. Any idea what could have cause this? No other obvious damage, when it first booted it seemed fine. Burned up after about 30 seconds of being on.
Quoted from McSquid:magic smoke started coming out if the pinitech NVRAM module I had installed.
That's why its called Firepower!
It is possible that two or more pins for the unit were very close, but not touching. The move could have made them touch, causing a short. That would be my theory.
The discussion about the potential new Fire Power backglass production has gotten very quiet. Does anyone know if this going to happen anytime in the near future or should I just get a Mayfair one that’s already available for purchase now?
The only thing Ive heard is the new HardTop reproduction playfield overlay! Yes, the Backglass talk has died.
So no one is making repro backglasses? My firepower 2 back glass flaked a ton during my move. Anyone have any high res scans of back glass art?
Finally got my sound working. Pulled out a couple of sound/speech boards from my pile and none worked. I just went ahead and ordered all new sound/speech boards and put them in. Still no sound. Started checking continuity on wires and somebody moved one of the speaker wires in the large connector leading to the head. Guess I should have checked that first. 
Quoted from Travish:Finally got my sound working. Pulled out a couple of sound/speech boards from my pile and none worked. I just went ahead and ordered all new sound/speech boards and put them in. Still no sound. Started checking continuity on wires and somebody moved one of the speaker wires in the connector leading to the head. Guess I should have checked that first.
At least now you have a good, new sound board!
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