(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

5 years ago



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  • 3,122 posts
  • 275 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by the4horse
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There are 3122 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 63.
#101 5 years ago

Does anyone know the insert size of the orange arrows? Also, the the insert sizes for the bonus lights... 1-9, 10, and 20. I'm going to attempt to replace my raised and cupped inserts. I'm curious if anything from here will work:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=FB4B0852990D3E9D8735FD1DCDAB4499.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=insert

#102 5 years ago

Not off hand but the parts manual has either 1-1/2, 2 or 2-3/4.
Why not just measure the length of the old raised and cupped ones you have?

#103 5 years ago

Thanks. Where can I find the parts manual please?

#106 5 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Which is correct for Firepower... Everybody says to set EOS switches to 1/8" gap. The Williams Flipper Maintenance manual says adjust EOS to 3/32". Which is correct or what have you guys found is best?
Also is there a listing somewhere that tells the coil sleeve lengths to use on the rest of the coils in firepower beside the flipper coils?
Sorry about being a pain, but I'm a newbie to all this.. I'm sure my questions are all pretty mundane to the rest of you guys..
Jack

I set mine to 1/16-plus so probably around 3/32. Just make sure you test it by pulling the plunger in, NOT moving the flipper back. The gap is slightly different based on how you do it. Pulling the plunger in will be closer to real word which is why I do it that way.

#107 5 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Which is correct for Firepower... Everybody says to set EOS switches to 1/8" gap. The Williams Flipper Maintenance manual says adjust EOS to 3/32". Which is correct or what have you guys found is best?
Also is there a listing somewhere that tells the coil sleeve lengths to use on the rest of the coils in firepower beside the flipper coils?
Sorry about being a pain, but I'm a newbie to all this.. I'm sure my questions are all pretty mundane to the rest of you guys..
Jack

I always set mine to 1/8". Seems to be the magic number. It's pretty critical though--just a slight adjustment can make a big difference in flipper performance.

Mike

#108 5 years ago
Quoted from papazit1963:

I always set mine to 1/8". Seems to be the magic number. It's pretty critical though--just a slight adjustment can make a big difference in flipper performance.
Mike

Thanks Mike & Schwaggs.

I did set them to 1/8" inch today and they are nice and strong. I was probably at a 1/16th before and noticed some hum about 75% of the time when I held the ball with the flipper. Now at 1/8" the hum is no longer. Thanks for the comebacks.

Jack

#109 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

To loosen insert glue, use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun and use it on the bottom of the playfield instead. I removed all the arrow inserts on my FP (with all wiring attached) in this manner with no problems at all: stand the playfield up vertically, lean the top against the back box but make sure it's at enough of an angle that it's not going to fall back down. Working on one insert at a time, keep your fingers of one hand on the topside of the insert while blowdrying the bottom side. As your fingers feel the insert get warm, stop the blowdrying and GENTLY but firmly press against the bottom of the insert with dull object, I used a 1/4" socket driver (without a socket on the end of course). Work from one end to the other but DON'T force it, if it's not loosening then you need to warm it again with the hair dryer. Eventually when pressing against it, you'll feel the glue give way and the insert can be worked out easily.

Great advise! Worked perfect. I was hoping to replace the old inserts with new ones, but these orange inserts are hard to find. I've watched several videos about sanding down cupped inserts. Will sanding fix the insert or make it too thin?

Also.. I know the paint of a 34 year old Firepower has faded. However, does anyone know of a good color to match the PF red around the arrows?
firepower-insert.jpg
cupped-insert.jpg

#110 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

Great advise! Worked perfect. I was hoping to replace the old inserts with new ones, but these orange inserts are hard to find. I've watched several videos about sanding down cupped inserts. Will sanding fix the insert or make it too thin?
Also.. I know the paint of a 34 year old Firepower has faded. However, does anyone know of a good color to match the PF red around the arrows?

Ha ha! The pics of those inserts look like banana's! Don't mean to laugh, I'm sure mine will look the same when I pop them out. Still on my to do list after rebuilding my pops.
From what I have read, if you bought new inserts you still would have to sand those flat. The reason is, inserts all installed on new pf's first then the pf's are all sanded flat afterwards. Hence the reason for inserts not having to be flat.
Maybe someone else knows, was wondering if putting your inserts in the oven with a heavy object over them will help flatten them like the do with playfield plastics. Then you wouldn't have so much to sand... Any thoughts guys?
Sorry I can't help you with the red color paint to use.
Jack

#111 5 years ago

So I completed my FP swap about 2 months ago, but something is still bugging me about it...

I didn't run a new ground braid, I retained the original since it had no issues. My question is... There are lots of places there is no way to get a staple gun in there to secure it properly... How would you guys go about doing that?

-Steve Ridge

#112 5 years ago

I fixed it by getting a better staple gun? the long nose air powered ones will go right in around pop bumpers.

#113 5 years ago

Yup. Love Firepower. To change things up I recently rubberbanded the upper left gate to allow full orbits from a hard plunge or an outer right shot.

Firepower 1.JPG
Firepower 2.JPG
Firepower 3.JPG

#114 5 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Maybe someone else knows, was wondering if putting your inserts in the oven with a heavy object over them will help flatten them like the do with playfield plastics. Then you wouldn't have so much to sand... Any thoughts guys?

Here's how I flattened mine once I had them out of the playfield. You'll need a heat gun this time, the same 1/4" socket driver, and a small cup of very cold water. Lay the insert face down on a clean, flat, heat-proof surface like a granite countertop. Keeping the heat gun 8" or so away, you want to heat the insert as if you were spray painting it. In other words, don't just hold the gun on it in a stationary position, because you'll surely deform or even melt it. Move the gun and make "passes" over the insert, just like it was a model car and you were spray painting the body.

You want the plastic heated to the point where it's warmed/softened enough that the pressure you're going to apply with the socket driver will force it down/flat, but not so warm that the vertical sides, usually the thinnest part of the insert, deform. That's why you want to go carefully with the heat until you develop your rhythm for how to heat the insert. After several passes, take your socket driver and gently but firmly press down in the center of the insert. When it's sufficiently heated, you'll see it flatten down from the pressure you apply with the socket driver. Move the driver around in the insert to flatten as much of the area as you can. Then position it in the middle and holding it firmly down, pour enough cold water on the insert to fill it and to create a small puddle around it. Keep pressing gently for a minute or so while the water cools and hardens the insert, then remove the driver and let the insert sit in the puddle for a couple minutes, then dry and move on to the next one.

This method worked very well for me, and it was the first time I'd ever tried it. I need to stress again though, make passes with the heat gun instead of holding it in one spot! While it doesn't make the inserts perfectly flat (only sanding would do that) it eliminates all/most of the banana shape. And if you do then sand them, you'll need to remove less material to flatten them entirely.

#115 5 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

Yup. Love Firepower. To change things up I recently rubberbanded the upper left gate to allow full orbits from a hard plunge or an outer right shot.

Firepower 1.JPG 231 KB

Firepower 2.JPG 189 KB

Firepower 3.JPG 128 KB

Fantistic photography! Did you take these shots?

Mike

#116 5 years ago

My FP has a variation on the "brickwall" bottom. Seems Williams cabinet maker was buying whatever they could.

FP_bottom.jpg
#117 5 years ago
Quoted from papazit1963:

Fantistic photography! Did you take these shots?
Mike

Yup. I've been an amateur photographer for quite a while. I have a couple of the Sorcerer I used to own on my profile page and I hope to come home with one or two pins from the Allentown show this weekend. Thanks for the compliment.

#118 5 years ago

I did get a couple eprom adapters back as returns recently, due to the occasional compatibility issue. One I'm able to sell, the other I'm going to use to diagnose what that problem is..... got my hands on a CPU board that suffers from the compatibility problem too finally.

I really hope I can nail down whatever Williams did differently, so I can make these things work on all machines.

#119 5 years ago

Experiment - Leveling the arrow inserts. Instead of applying heat directly to the insert, I made a hot plate and heated only the top of the insert. To my surprise, this worked great.

Using hard hood, I cut and sanded a block of wood to match the inside of the 1.5 inch arrow insert. The wood fit snugly into the insert.

insert-wood-wedge.jpg

I found an old metal shelf support and used it as a hot plate. Using a clamp, I placed the top of the insert onto the metal plate. Apply a little pressure, just enough to hold together.

insert-clamp.jpg

Apply heat onto the back of the hot plate. I used a heat gun on low and heated the metal plate for about a minute or so. I never pointed the heat gun directly at the insert, only heated the back side of the plate. Now squeeze that clamp down hard while the metal plate is hot.

insert-heat.jpg

I let the insert cool down for about 10 minutes before removing the clamp. I'm very happy with the results. The arrow kept it's shape and the top is fairly level, no more cupped effect. Also, the sticker never came off. Now I'm able to keep my original arrows and stickers! Before and after pics.

before-after-insert.jpg

#120 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

Experiment - Leveling the arrow inserts.

Brilliant!!!

#121 5 years ago

I'm stumped.. Anyone know where I can get 1 3/8" transparent flipper buttons for the Firepower. Want to make my own lighted buttons.

#122 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

Experiment - Leveling the arrow inserts. Instead of applying heat directly to the insert, I made a hot plate and heated only the top of the insert. To my surprise, this worked great.
Using hard hood, I cut and sanded a block of wood to match the inside of the 1.5 inch arrow insert. The wood fit snugly into the insert.

Good idea! Thanks for posting this, Most of my firepower inserts need to be straightened.

#123 5 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

I'm stumped.. Anyone know where I can get 1 3/8" transparent flipper buttons for the Firepower. Want to make my own lighted buttons.

I don't know where for your answer, but I replaced my buttons with new white ones that were 1-1/8" and they work fine for gameplay.

#124 5 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

I don't know where for your answer, but I replaced my buttons with new white ones that were 1-1/8" and they work fine for gameplay.

Hey Geo, Did you have to do anything to adjust the switches to work?

#125 5 years ago

I'll look at them tomorrow because I don't remember what I did offhand.

#126 5 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

I'll look at them tomorrow because I don't remember what I did offhand.

Got my 1 1/8" transparent flipper buttons today. The cointaker color changing flex leds should come Monday.
Geocab, did you see if you had to make any adjustments in your Firpower to accommodate the 1 1/8" buttons. Since Firepower calls for 1 3/8"...

#127 5 years ago

Sorry about not replying sooner. I became distracted by some things going on at home. Good things, though.

Here are two photos, one with a new switch that I didn't adjust at all, and one of the left side with old switch and I did adjust the leaf blade slightly, but nothing serious. Button pushed in on the right side, at rest on the left side.
20140504_134348.jpg

20140504_134317.jpg

#128 5 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Sorry about not replying sooner. I became distracted by some things going on at home. Good things, though.
Here are two photos, one with a new switch that I didn't adjust at all, and one of the left side with old switch and I did adjust the leaf blade slightly, but nothing serious. Button pushed in on the right side, at rest on the left side.

20140504_134348.jpg 146 KB

20140504_134317.jpg 173 KB

thanks Geo, Got it taken care of. Just made switch adjustment. Works awesome.

#129 5 years ago

Here's my Firepower with vid's homemade lighted flipper buttons. 16 color changing..

20140504_170727.jpg
#130 5 years ago

I just bought my first LEDs at Allentown on Friday and experimented with them in a few places in my FP. For whatever reason, they refused to work in the pop bumpers, though other bulbs light there just fine. Any idea what the problem is here?

#131 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I just bought my first LEDs at Allentown on Friday and experimented with them in a few places in my FP. For whatever reason, they refused to work in the pop bumpers, though other bulbs light there just fine. Any idea what the problem is here?

You need a "more complex" LED bulb for those early pops that are under CPU control.

Try a 5 LED bulb and it will work.

#132 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You need a "more complex" LED bulb for those early pops that are under CPU control.
Try a 5 LED bulb and it will work.

Does that mean they won't work in ANY controlled lamps (like inserts) and are only good for GI, or is it just a quirk with the pop bumpers? (at the moment I can't slide the glass out and check myself)

#133 5 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Here's my Firepower with vid's homemade lighted flipper buttons. 16 color changing..

So J. Cutler, where in Muskegon do you live? I'm from there but live in Kansas City area now. My parents still live there in Norton Shores and we hope to be able to visit in August this summer. Would love to see your game if you have time.

I have a FP in storage at the moment with both a Phoebe restored playfield and a CPR restored playfield in waiting. Not sure which I will swap into it.

Mike O.

#134 5 years ago

I restored my Firepower about a year ago. A lot of pins have come and gone over the years but Firepower is staying. I found mine in a basement near Chicago. It had been in that home since 1985. It was dirty and had not been maintained but it has also not been played. The board was in bad shape but playfield, cabinet, and backglass were in exceptional condition. But, you could not tell by all the mildew, dust, and gunk. I put in a rottendog and then replaced the front targets, fixed some very amateur wiring attempts, and replaced a couple cooked coils but the machine came out great. I put in some LED's behind the glass and it really shines.

Every time the thought to sell it crosses my mind, all I have to do is walk down and play it. The design is so fun to play and the machine is so fast, a lot of other machines will pass through my collection before it goes.

#135 5 years ago

Regarding the LED under bumpers, you need a high output LED. Regular 44 and 47 replacements wont work.

I buy them here: http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=6364651CC98EC3D54E993AF057F44243.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=bumpers+led

You will be very happy with the result.

#136 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Does that mean they won't work in ANY controlled lamps (like inserts) and are only good for GI, or is it just a quirk with the pop bumpers? (at the moment I can't slide the glass out and check myself)

Just not in the pops.

#137 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You need a "more complex" LED bulb for those early pops that are under CPU control.
Try a 5 LED bulb and it will work.

So that answers the question on the pops (I have the same issue although the lamp sockets are #555). So what about the #89 LED flashers I bought? All they do is come on at about 25% at power up and stay on continuously. These are the ones I bought.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1247

-Steve

#138 5 years ago
Quoted from VDrums2112:

So that answers the question on the pops (I have the same issue although the lamp sockets are #555). So what about the #89 LED flashers I bought? All they do is come on at about 25% at power up and stay on continuously. These are the ones I bought.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1247
-Steve

Have look at the schematic for the 89s - there is a bleed resistor to keep the original incandescents warm - the led is being power through this circuit. Clip the lead to the power resistor and your leds will work, however I prefer the original 89s in this application as they look better when fired as a flash. The leds respond too quickly and don't look as good in my opinion. The 89s fade down gracefully after a flash

With your pop leds purchase some with bridge rectifiers in them (they'll say good for ac/dc or controlled circuits) or swap the polarity at the socket for the ones you're trying to use. The led is a "real" diode so is polarised.

#139 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

So J. Cutler, where in Muskegon do you live? I'm from there but live in Kansas City area now. My parents still live there in Norton Shores and we hope to be able to visit in August this summer. Would love to see your game if you have time.
I have a FP in storage at the moment with both a Phoebe restored playfield and a CPR restored playfield in waiting. Not sure which I will swap into it.
Mike O.

Hi Mike,
I live near Muskegon Lake, up from the old Shaw Walker factory.

#140 5 years ago

Just added firepower to my list of games. Ive always wanted to own one.

Just on the big hunt for a perfect playfield now. I have a feeling its going to take quite a long while to find it.

#141 5 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Hi Mike,I live near Muskegon Lake, up from the old Shaw Walker factory.

So within walking distance to Fricano's? I'm so jealous. I've never found pizza to compare to them since moving away in 1974. Other than Scrib's.

#142 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

So within walking distance to Fricano's? I'm so jealous. I've never found pizza to compare to them since moving away in 1974. Other than Scrib's.

You know Mike, I don't like Fricano's. lol To me it's like eating the cardboard disc that Scrib's sit's on! There is only one pizza in this town as far as I'm concerned. You guessed it... Scrib's... I can't go more than 4 weeks without one.

Jack

#143 5 years ago
Quoted from Jabbles180:

Just added firepower to my list of games. Ive always wanted to own one.
Just on the big hunt for a perfect playfield now. I have a feeling its going to take quite a long while to find it.

Glad you found one. I just finished mine a couple of weeks ago. Was getting ready to sell it and the wife and I played a few games. We're keeping this baby now. Such a fun game!

Mike

1 week later
#144 5 years ago

Anybody know where I can tap an always on 12 volts from in my Firepower? Have a RGB LED light strip mod I want to try.

Basically I'm wanting the underside of the cabinet to flash red with the red "Fire" flasher lamp and blue with the blue "Power" flasher lamp. I think I have that one figured out since the flashers are 12 volts, correct?... Then I'm wanting the cabinet to change from blue to red when the pop bumpers switch their lights (I have blue and red caps since the pop body mounting holes weren't perfect on the new PF). Where could I get the 12 volts to power the 2nd LED strip for the pop bumpers.

Thanks,
-Steve Ridge

#145 5 years ago
Quoted from VDrums2112:

Anybody know where I can tap an always on 12 volts from in my Firepower? Have a RGB LED light strip mod I want to try.
Basically I'm wanting the underside of the cabinet to flash red with the red "Fire" flasher lamp and blue with the blue "Power" flasher lamp. I think I have that one figured out since the flashers are 12 volts, correct?... Then I'm wanting the cabinet to change from blue to red when the pop bumpers switch their lights (I have blue and red caps since the pop body mounting holes weren't perfect on the new PF). Where could I get the 12 volts to power the 2nd LED strip for the pop bumpers.
Thanks,
-Steve Ridge

I am also interested in this. Steve, once done... it would be great if you can share some video of the under cabinet lighting.

#146 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

I am also interested in this. Steve, once done... it would be great if you can share some video of the under cabinet lighting.

Will do!

I should also note... The reason for the 2nd strip LED set is because they are going in 2 different locations. The "Fire" and "Power" flashers will illuminate the bottom of the cabinet while the pop bumpers will change the color on the wall from behind the back box to either red or blue depending on which set of pop bumpers is lit.

#147 5 years ago

Anybody know what number coil the left flipper is on the diagnostic solenoid test?

#148 5 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Anybody know what number coil the left flipper is on the diagnostic solenoid test?

Never mind, resolved my issue. Bad connection on one of my driver board cables.

1 week later
#149 5 years ago

I just noticed... Firepower is now listed at 94. YEA!! It's finally in the top 100

#150 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

I just noticed... Firepower is now listed at 94. YEA!! It's finally in the top 100

It certainly belongs there I think.. YEA!!

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