(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Robotworkshop
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There are 3661 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 74.
#1201 3 years ago

My targets were original (with remnants of the original black stickers no less!), and instead of a straight vertical brace that could be faced with foam, the brace was an L-bracket that had a bend right behind the target rivet. As mentioned before, that short length had been beat and worn down, but there was no place to put foam that worked effectively, without further modifying that bracket. Yet another reason I had to ultimately replace them.

If yours have the straight brackets, standard 1/4" foam weatherstripping works great if you already have some handy.

#1202 3 years ago

All done! These are comet 5050 smd bulbs. Frosted warm white. Everywhere. Inserts and GI.

IMG_5573 (resized).JPGIMG_5574 (resized).JPG

#1203 3 years ago

Wow! Nice lighting, but that's a shiny playfield! Or is it the glass? Looks great!

I did a few custom color tweaks on mine, so look for it/me at Expo next weekend, I'll be glad to exchange opinions.

I love this game. So many they're looked down upon, but there's a reason they made so many of them...!

#1204 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Wow! Nice lighting, but that's a shiny playfield! Or is it the glass? Looks great!

That's glare on the glass unfortunately. Doesn't really affect gameplay as I don't play in the dark.

Looking forward to seeing your game at LAX! Come play my WCS in the cincy pinball area!

#1205 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Come play my WCS in the cincy pinball area!

Definitely! With any luck maybe I'll get to crash the aisle and set mine up nearby this year. I dug out the Alley Cats backglass I promised Pheobe so that'll be my excuse Looking forward to seeing everyone again - I truly do need to get out more, but the rest of last year was too damn crazy with the move. Gotta make up for that somehow

#1206 3 years ago

Does anyone know where to get the little plastic covering pieces that run between the two posts that are between the "F" - "I" and "R" - "E" lanes? I have two yellow ones, and I would like to obtain two semi-clear red ones like the originals. Anyone have a source for those?

#1207 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Does anyone know where to get the little plastic covering pieces that run between the two posts that are between the "F" - "I" and "R" - "E" lanes? I have two yellow ones, and I would like to obtain two semi-clear red ones like the originals. Anyone have a source for those?

They are called Lane Guides, I think almost all standard pinball companies have them (Marco, PBL, PBR). Mine had opaque red between with a transparent red on the far left (1.5" I believe, the transparent is longer, probably 2 1/8", didn't measure). The long one may be less available (PBR has it)...

For a pic comparing opaque vs. transparent, look here. The three small are opaque, large is transparent I believe.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=856&picno=19165

#1208 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

All done! These are comet 5050 smd bulbs. Frosted warm white. Everywhere. Inserts and GI.

nice back glass.
i dunno what's holding me from buying a repro.

#1209 3 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

nice back glass.
i dunno what's holding me from buying a repro.

The damn exchange rate, that's what's stopping you! Find out if Steve from Mayfair is going to be at one of the pinball shows. Plan to attend or find a friend that is attending. Get Steve to bring the backglass with him, pay for it and bring it home!

#1210 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

the little plastic covering pieces

The transparent lane guides seem to come in two different varieties. Some seem to be "jeweled" and some are just transparent. I have a mix on my game. I like the "jeweled" ones better but I can't find all the right ones. I definitely prefer these ones over the opaque or solid ones.

http://www.pbresource.com/rollover.htm

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PFLD-LNGUIDE

#1211 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

The damn exchange rate, that's what's stopping you! ..

yeah, with exchange rate and shipping it will be close to $450, damn!

but knowing me when i'll get back to my restoration, i'll probably get one.
i'm going to have a one of a king airbrushed cabinet so i'll be crazy if i don't get one.

#1212 3 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

nice back glass.
i dunno what's holding me from buying a repro.

I didn't know they were so regularly beat up. I thought mine was pretty bad. Haha

#1213 3 years ago

$$$ stops me. Can't justify $250 on that now.

#1214 3 years ago
Quoted from setzkor:

The three small are opaque, large is transparent I believe.

Original, factory, Williams Fire Power, has all ball guides as transparent red.
Do to ball damage of the vulnerable clear plastic many operators would replace
whatever the distributors had. Many distributors had leftovers of opaque plastic
ball guides from the mechanical era. Thus, most Fire Powers have/had broken
ball guides replaced with whatever was/is available at the time.

#1215 3 years ago

Thats the case with mine. I would like to get mine all original transparent red.

#1216 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I didn't know they were so regularly beat up. I thought mine was pretty bad. Haha

most of them look like crap, just took a picture of mine

firepower BG (resized).jpg

#1217 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

$$$ stops me. Can't justify $250 on that now.

you know waaaaaaaaant it!

#1218 3 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

most of them look like crap

As far as backglasses go, Williams made the gray mistake of not
having any shielding around the glass plasma displays and along
with the exposed display wiring looms, caused rubbing against
the backglasses artwork thus, destroying many backglasses.
The problem would be exacerbated by the constant removal
of the backglasses for servicing.
Williams Electronics would start do address the issues with
System 7 games. Pharoh would be one of the first pinballs to have
neoprene rubber frames attached to the plasma displays from
the factory.

#1219 3 years ago

Retrofitting such foam rubber would seem to be a worthwhile mod, then.

#1220 3 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

most of them look like crap

Yours isn't all that bad! Here's my original, looked pretty awful when it was lit up:

orig_FP_backglass (resized).jpg

Who has the worst backglass? Post them up!

#1221 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Does anyone know where to get the little plastic covering pieces that run between the two posts that are between the "F" - "I" and "R" - "E" lanes? I have two yellow ones, and I would like to obtain two semi-clear red ones like the originals. Anyone have a source for those?

I got mine (all 3 transparent) from absolutepinball.com in Saskatoon if you have trouble locating elsewhere.

#1222 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

looked pretty awful

That is caused by rapid temperature change. Ouch!

#1223 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Yours isn't all that bad! Here's my original, looked pretty awful when it was lit up:

Who has the worst backglass? Post them up!

damn, ok you win.

mine looks like somebody had fun with the testor paint kit

#1224 3 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

mine looks like somebody had fun with the testor paint kit

My original one does too... but that somebody was me

FP_old_touch (resized).jpg

Yeah so it's not a pro job, but it actually doesn't look terrible when lit. Steve Ritchie said it looked good when he signed it last year...

FP_old_signed (resized).jpg

Only reason I got these pics now is from taking it down off the wall to put back in the game for Louisville Expo. Really tough call: I think the near-pristine NOS one I scored (my dad got it for me as a gift after I finished the machine) would be harder to replace.

#1225 3 years ago

If you can't find or afford an original back glass, does anyone sell translites for early SS pins?

#1226 3 years ago

OK guys, I have a funny request, followed by an explanation for it:

*Can you guys post pictures of your flippers IN THE FLIPPED-UP position?*

Reason being: After rebuilding my flippers in-kind with new mechs of the original style, I always suspected they seemed to flip a little too high, almost like a GTB System 3... not quite that bad, but definitely higher than the other (later) Williams games in my collection. But I replaced everything with in-kind parts as originally designed, or so I thought... and maybe the older games were designed differently, you know?

When I took my FP to Louisville Expo, a respected player and friend with more experience said the travel was indeed too high. When he looked under the pf he agreed my mechs looked proper, but immediately spotted that the rubber button snubber/stops on the bracket against the crank arm were missing. "Well there's your problem! Put those stops in and their added thickness will lessen the travel and make it right. The new parts probably omitted them by mistake. But the hole the stops should snap into looks too big so maybe they were made wrong? Either way if you didn't know, well, you didn't know." He was quite understanding and helpful even though I felt like a giant idiot.

Wanting the game to be right, I immediately added some stick-on rubber pads at the show and sure enough, the travel was more like the Sys9-11-WPC games I'm familiar with. Which of course made FP more difficult. Cool!

But here's where it gets interesting:

When I got the game home I figured I would take the buttons off the old mechs to compare and ensure I ordered the right parts. Well, it turns out there aren't any! AND before you think they simply wore off over time, it turns out the warning sticker WMS placed to point out the (then-new!) lane change switch on the flipper mech, completely covered the hole, so there never was nor could have been a rubber stop there!

So now I don't feel so bad, but at any rate I'm still confused. How steep should Firepower's flippers be when raised?

#1227 3 years ago

Sometimes the "kits" have a coil stop that is longer or shorter. Check the old and new coil stop length.

#1228 3 years ago

I actually replaced the coil stops, they longer than the worn-to-stump originals that were in there, so the travel with the new parts was actually LESS than what the originals were...!

#1229 3 years ago

These seem right to me

IMG_5607 (resized).JPGIMG_5608 (resized).JPG

#1230 3 years ago

Thanks for the pics! That seems to be where mine is *after* I added the foam pads to the bracket:

FP_Flip2 (resized).jpg

And yet oddly enough, the original brackets (with integrated coil stops) never had pads there. Look again at the sticker placed there at the factory:

FP_FlipBrackOrig (resized).jpg

And oddly enough, I looked at Space Shuttle... it's flippers seem normal, but don't have the rubber pads either. I wonder if I got the wrong coil stops when I replaced the flipper bases with the modern, replaceable-stop style. Good lord but that would mean the originals were beat down even further than I thought.

#1231 3 years ago

One must remember, the flipper brackets were modified
every few years as tests came back on the longevity
of the assemblies. Also, to infuse engineered obsolescence.

#1232 3 years ago

I removed the LEFT-SIDE one-way gate from Firepower.
Highly recommended.
-mof

#1233 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I removed the one-way gate from Firepower.
Highly recommended.
-mof

The one on the left of the FIRE lanes? I've thought of doing the same thing. I get to many locks off the plunge

#1234 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I've thought of doing

Get ready to laugh your A$$ off when you shoot right orbit and it comes screaming back at the flippers. Hello High Speed!
19/20 times you can save it with a perfect slap save -- super fun.
-mof

#1235 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Get ready to laugh your A$$ off when you shoot right orbit and it comes screaming back at the flippers. Hello High Speed!
19/20 times you can save it with a perfect slap save -- super fun.
-mof

Cool. I might do this to spice up a game everyone knows.

#1236 3 years ago

How the F do you get extra ball? I just got 5x, but no extra ball? Do I have to spell fire one more time?

#1237 3 years ago

Depends on your setting in the settings menu.

#1238 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

How the F do you get extra ball? I just got 5x, but no extra ball? Do I have to spell fire one more time?

By detault (setting 01 at 34) the Extra Ball light near the POWER targets is lit the next time you collect FIRE after 5X is lit. You can change setting 34 to 02 and Extra Ball will be lit WITH 5X

To have Special award an extra ball, you need to change setting 27 to "01 Award Extra Ball" (00 Award Credit is default)
By default, Special is turned on when you score 3 FIREPOWERs (setting 35)
To have Scores award an extra ball, set the Scores where you want to earn the extra ball in setting 14-17 (14 and 15 have award scores by default) AND you need to change setting 28 to "01 Award Extra Ball" (00 Award Credit is default)

#1239 3 years ago

I picked up a Firepower PF last year from a guy here on Pinside thinking it would clean up better than what I have. It was quite some time ago as I met the playfield at Pintastic last summer. It looks nicer than what is in my machine so I figured it would be a good upgrade candidate. Anyway, long story short I finally stopped storing it and started working on it today. Got the mylar off (at least the first layer) with freeze spray with just a little paint sticking to the mylar. Here are some pics of the mylar in front of a white background and of the playfield, with some close-ups and some shots of the matching spots on the playfield.

IMG_1620 (resized).JPG
IMG_1623 (resized).JPG
IMG_1622 (resized).JPG
IMG_1625 (resized).JPG
IMG_1621 (resized).JPG
IMG_1624 (resized).JPG

I suspect that area to the left of bonus 4, 5, and 6 had been touched up prior to the mylar install. Next up is getting the goo off, leveling inserts (if needed) and then ordering some Max2K to clear it. Hopefully now that I'm started I will keep moving forward. I hope it is worth the effort...

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

#1240 3 years ago

The very best of luck with that play field...

#1241 3 years ago

On my replacement play field, I have just one faded POWER target insert (why one of three, I don't know). Anyone have any experience with Marco's offerings, and which one is a close match?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=blue%20insert&VIEW_SIZE=12&VIEW_INDEX=0&view=card&sortOrder=SortKeywordRelevancy

#1242 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

which one is a close match?

As much as you may not want to do it, I would probably replace all three. It's going to be hard to match one brand new one with two that are 35+ years old. You're doing lots of work anyway might as well just do all of them!

#1243 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I removed the LEFT-SIDE one-way gate from Firepower.
Highly recommended.
-mof

I just did this and have to agree with you, It creates a whole new strategy to this game. The plunger shot now requires skill if you want FIRE. I highly recommend this and easy to revert back. Thanks, MOF!

#1244 3 years ago
Quoted from bbriese:

requires skill if you want FIRE

Yeah, and now I plunge specifically for "E" since it has the least risk to drain and that top-right pop tends to re-pop the ball back up into the E spot to re-earn more letters... thanks to the new missing one-way.

-mof

#1245 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

As much as you may not want to do it, I would probably replace all three. It's going to be hard to match one brand new one with two that are 35+ years old. You're doing lots of work anyway might as well just do all of them!

Fair enough...with that being the case, any of them specifically that you think would be a good match?

#1246 3 years ago

Weather stripping foam did the trick on the spot targets that would register multiple hits! Thanks for the help.

Also. Holy shitballs the game is completely different with the gate removed. I kind of like it though. I've been super short plunging, bounce off gate at top of shooter lane, dead bounce off left flipper to a trap on the right, or sometimes the dead bounce shatzes the right inlane for some free bonus advances. Awesome.

#1247 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Fair enough...with that being the case, any of them specifically that you think would be a good match?

I bought from Marco and PBL, liked the color of the PBL one's better to match my originals (note, the originals will all be yellowed to some degree, even if not fully faded). I thought the Marco one's were a little too transparent...if that makes sense, the color point seemed a bit washed out. With that said, I ended up replacing all 5 of the blue on mine.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3884

Since then, PBL seems to have added a dark blue option, did not get those to color match, but was fine with the one's linked above.

#1248 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

any of them specifically that you think would be a good match?

Problem for me is that I have a CPR playfield and all of the inserts are starburst (other than the ones up the middle) and have LEDs so I'm completely biased. I can't even remember what my original playfield looked liked. I do recall that the "Power" inserts were really bizarre, one blue, one red, one white!

setzkor does make a good point, if you're going to do those 3 might as well do all 5 of the blue ones. Yeah, I know, you went from replacing 1 to replacing 5!

#1249 3 years ago

la_porta , to give you a better idea of what you are in for in trying to replace one 35 year old insert, here are a few pics:

Reflected light (e.g. game off) order: PBL, aged but "unfaded" original, Marco
DSCN4492 (resized).JPG

Transmitted light (e.g. insert lit) order: PBL, aged but "unfaded" original, Marco
DSCN4493 (resized).JPG

Maybe the dark blue from PBL would match better, but I would plan on buying minimum of 3, and probably 5 of the one's you want to color test. If you get one you are happy with, perhaps changing out just 1 could work. My OCD had me replacing all of the inserts that were available.

#1250 3 years ago

Just acquired A Firepower, having some interesting problems, I get different issues almost every time I fire it up, this is what I have seen so far on start up, display shows memory loss, try to get it in attract mode, won't go, batteries are good, sometimes LEDs flash once go out, do the switch test, lower one stays on, sometimes LEDs stay on, Sometimes LEDs flash once go out, do the switch test nothing happens, no LED. Have replaced batteries, IC's 12, 13, 16, and 19. Any help would be great, displays have shown various strange things and makes a weird sound that tapers off to silence when first fired up,
Thanks,

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