(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Schwaggs
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There are 3642 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 73.
#51 6 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

To loosen insert glue, use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun and use it on the bottom of the playfield instead. I removed all the arrow inserts on my FP (with all wiring attached) in this manner with no problems at all: stand the playfield up vertically, lean the top against the back box but make sure it's at enough of an angle that it's not going to fall back down. Working on one insert at a time, keep your fingers of one hand on the topside of the insert while blowdrying the bottom side. As your fingers feel the insert get warm, stop the blowdrying and GENTLY but firmly press against the bottom of the insert with dull object, I used a 1/4" socket driver (without a socket on the end of course). Work from one end to the other but DON'T force it, if it's not loosening then you need to warm it again with the hair dryer. Eventually when pressing against it, you'll feel the glue give way and the insert can be worked out easily.

Thanks! I'm a bit concerned of heating the back side, is a blow dryer hot enough to melt any soldering? I guess I need to remove the inserts completely, I was thinking of just pushing down a bit.

#52 6 years ago

A blow dryer is totally safe. As you found out, the topside is a lot more fragile. Just put it on hot/low and they will come out if you work slow.

#53 6 years ago

Question guys, Kind of new to all this. One of my pop bumpers seems to be slugglish. It fires right away but when the metal ring/yoke returns to the top it seems slow going up. Like it's dragging. I yet to tackle taking one apart. Is it dirty? Or would be the coil sleeve be worn? Or the spring weak? Or all of the above. I realize that it needs to be rebuilt. I'm just trying to pinpoint the most likely cause. I have vids guide to rebuilding it, but still seems pretty intimidating to me. It seems to get better if the ball smacks between it and another pop. But if the ball just hits that one pop and then hits a rail and bounces back to the pop. It doesn't want to fire a second time cause it hasn't returned fully to the top of the cap yet. Hope this is making sense.. Thanks for any help. I appreciate it.

#54 6 years ago

Yep, probably a weak or broken spring.

#55 6 years ago

I can join your club now fellas. I picked up a Firepower II that was shopped/restored by butterflygirl here on pinside several years ago.
Cabinet in VERY nice and she varathaned the playfield to protect it from further damage.
Photos soon as I just put an order in for star posts - it was fairly dirty. It's getting the proper LED treatment and it is nestled in it's new home next to my Warlok. They look happy together.

#56 6 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

Thanks! I'm a bit concerned of heating the back side, is a blow dryer hot enough to melt any soldering? I guess I need to remove the inserts completely, I was thinking of just pushing down a bit.

If a blow dryer were hot enough to melt solder, Farrah Fawcett's head would have looked like a blackened mass of charred flesh. No, don't worry about that at all.

#57 6 years ago
Quoted from greywolf:

Aha, got alerted to clubs via the High Speed club and thought, Hmmm, there HAS to be a Firepower club in here--oop, there it is! yea!
Cabinet is not the best, backglass has minor scratches, replaced all lights with LEDs except for five #455s in the backglass behind FIREPOWER, CPR repro playfield, all new but, boy, good luck finding replacement bumper caps! I think I'll have to get blank whites and do 'm up myself...(ordered!). Also replaced the displays with PinScore units. "Less authentic", perhaps, but when the game's not being played and is just sitting there, I'm drawing 15 watts instead of 150 watts.
Before I put in the playfield, I got some polyurethane resin and some dyes and deepened the colours on the inserts -- the blues and oranges are way too pale.
Had to replace MPU/Driver/Sound boards with PinballPCB (I *really* like them) boards. They do good work.
For extra fun, get a set of undercab 3-color LED strips: One down the left side, one down the right side and find a way to fit the short one across the bottom. Wire them up such that the pop bumpers, slings, kickback, firepower flashers, and plunger-side ball release are linked in.
Bright blue flashers behind the center targets, wired to the drop target resets, another one right near the plunger, wired into the ball release -- you KNOW when you have a ball waiting! -- and bright white flashers under the plastics near the eject holes hooked up to the eject solenoids.
Rebuilt the flippers. If you do NOTHING ELSE to your game, DO THIS. Don't forget to put in the rubber grommets where the linkages come to rest. Yes, it will look like your flippers can't swing as far, but you will actually INCREASE the power you get from your flippers and your coils will thank you.
Loosened up the spinner, lubed it a bit, and I can reliably get 35k+ on a hit from the right flipper. Replaced the knocker coil with something a little stronger, mounted it more toward the back, directly to the inside of the cabinet, and the report from that baby is eminently satisfying.
Now due to dissatisfaction with the first one, and worse dissatisfaction with the second one, I have to build a third topper for this puppy. I have the wiring in place, hooked to a Molex plug, so it's as easy as plug and play
Sound System is a Polk Audio 10" Subwoofer plus two pedestal home theatre satellites. On full volume it will rattle the playfield glass. Due to the directional nature of the speakers, I have not had to crank the volume to obnoxiously loud levels at the expos.
Paid $300 + traded a Xenon for this game. Considering Xenon only cost me $50 outright, I have no regrets over the transaction. IF I ever get it together to post, I'll post pix and video.
7 years and still a work in progress...
Oh, yeah, Hi! by the way...
--*greywolf;

I too have played Greywolf's Firepower. At CAX 2 years ago. It's what made me go out and find my own. Thanks Greywolf! You're FP rocks!

Mike

#58 6 years ago

Haha who else has a "brick bottom" Firepower ? I do, and up till now I thought someone else had replaced the bottom of the cabinet with a scrap piece of wood that was about the right size. Now, I know better:

http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=856&picno=53445&zoom=1

There's a little writeup explanation about it too on there about the factory using this wood.

#59 6 years ago

Yep, I've got one. This is the same paneling used for covering walls. In the late 70's that wood look was popular. My dad had wood siding on his Ford LTD station wagon.

firepower brick bottom.JPG

#60 6 years ago

I have a brick bottom too. Really a neat thing to notice if you haven't seen it before.

Reminds me of the kitchen walls when I was a kid.

-Hans

#61 6 years ago
Quoted from Spybryon:

Haha who else has a "brick bottom" Firepower ?

Mine has this as well. And probably like most others, I was really surprised to find it came from the factory that way.

#62 6 years ago

I also have the brick bottom. In addition, mine seems to have a strange cheap perfume like scent coming from there, noticable whenever the coin door is open or the playfield is raised. Don't really look forward to pulling the playfield up.

I'm wondering if this is just with mine or if anyone else's has this scent that may be from that particular material?

#63 6 years ago

No, mine doesn't smell like perfume.

#64 6 years ago

It's probably just haunted.

#65 6 years ago

No, I do not have that perfume smell either. Only the faintest scent coil dust and old rubber rings.

#66 6 years ago

Ok, someone has sprayed deodorizer in my cab at some point, will try to get rid if it...

#67 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Not speaking from experience, but this surprises me to hear. I would expect all <1984 pins to be on the easy side without all the ramps.
-mof

I'm going to see him again in May... I'll be sure to ask in more detail why.

-Steve Ridge

#68 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Question guys, Kind of new to all this. One of my pop bumpers seems to be slugglish. It fires right away but when the metal ring/yoke returns to the top it seems slow going up. Like it's dragging. I yet to tackle taking one apart. Is it dirty? Or would be the coil sleeve be worn? Or the spring weak? Or all of the above. I realize that it needs to be rebuilt. I'm just trying to pinpoint the most likely cause. I have vids guide to rebuilding it, but still seems pretty intimidating to me. It seems to get better if the ball smacks between it and another pop. But if the ball just hits that one pop and then hits a rail and bounces back to the pop. It doesn't want to fire a second time cause it hasn't returned fully to the top of the cap yet. Hope this is making sense.. Thanks for any help. I appreciate it.

Thanks for the reply SunKing. Will be ordering rebuild parts for all 4 pops soon. Going to my first show on the 24th. Pinball at the Zoo in Michigan. Hoping maybe I can buy the parts there. This pinball stuff sure is getting addicting.

#69 6 years ago

I'm going to the Pinball at the Zoo as well. If you need pop bumper caps, I have a set of these I could bring:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PP&Product_Code=PPS-03-7444-497&Category_Code=

I never opened them after finding out they're slightly different than the originals. My originals weren't bad to begin with, so I kept them.

#70 6 years ago

Thanks for the offer I appreciate it. I've seen those caps on Planetary. Luckily mine are like new. I just need basic parts to rebuild the 4 pops. Will any of the vendors be selling that kind of stuff their?

#71 6 years ago

Mine is in storage ready for restoration but I'd like to be a member of this club

#72 6 years ago

Trying to get my project one to start up now I've finished restoring it every time I plug connector 2j13 in it blows fuse f2 grr

#73 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Question guys, Kind of new to all this. One of my pop bumpers seems to be slugglish. It fires right away but when the metal ring/yoke returns to the top it seems slow going up. Like it's dragging. I yet to tackle taking one apart.

Time for a rebuild:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

#74 6 years ago

I figured as much vid. I have most all your guides. There great! Very detailed. But the idea still scares me. But I'm going to get the parts for all 4 and go at it with your guide by my side... I'm sure after the first one is done. It will not seem so bad. Thanks

#75 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

I figured as much vid. I have most all your guides. There great! Very detailed. But the idea still scares me. But I'm going to get the parts for all 4 and go at it with your guide by my side... I'm sure after the first one is done. It will not seem so bad. Thanks

It's easy specialy if you follow vids instructions

#76 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

But the idea still scares me. But I'm going to get the parts for all 4 and go at it with your guide by side

Buy enough parts for 5 pops, just in case you drop one and it bounces into oblivion.

Or you put a nice new skirt on, and the edge chips 3 days latter....

It won't be hard at all to rebuild, and if you get stuck, we are here to help you.

#78 6 years ago

Don't install the wrong pop bodies like I did. My bumper caps are only on with 1 screw and are sitting a little too far forward. But having recently completed the playfield swap, I couldn't be bothered to tear them out again. Does FP call for the older or newer style bodies? That issue, along with the door bell button that someone installed to the front of the cab, are things I still need to address.

#79 6 years ago

I was intimidated by the pops too when I did my swap. But it had to be done, so I dove in there and did it. If I screwed it up I was just going to ask how fix it. It all turned out fine. I just took my time and made sure exactly where I wanted things before I made the commitment with the drill and the starter holes. What I took the most time with were the spoons and I'm glad I did. On the first try I had ZERO dead spots. I ordered brand new pop bumper assemblies from Pinball Life. I get TONS more action out of those new pops than what the old ones were. That's not to say if I rebuilt the old ones they wouldn't be just as good as the new ones, but the old ones were original and had seen better days mechanically and cosmetically.

#80 6 years ago

So I have a question about scoring...

My center stand up target above the pops ALWAYS scores 1,000 no matter what insert value is lit. I didn't see anything in the adjustments to allow for this to be set this way... Am I missing something?

-Steve Ridge

#81 6 years ago

That stand up always scores 1000. The 10k, 30k and 50k inserts are not involved with it. They're located near there making the player think they're related but are based on achieving the 1-6 targets and the power targets. Take the glass off and try it. Hope I'm reading your question correctly. Firepower is simply classic, in your face pinball!

#82 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Buy enough parts for 5 pops, just in case you drop one and it bounces into oblivion.
Or you put a nice new skirt on, and the edge chips 3 days latter....
It won't be hard at all to rebuild, and if you get stuck, we are here to help you.

Thanks vid will order extra on the parts. You and the rest of the people here are always great help. In forums I've been in before, I've never seen the great responses to people asking for help as I've seen with pinball folks.
Are parts for rebuilding pops usually available at the shows? Such as Pinball at the Zoo.. Or am I better off ordering online?

#83 6 years ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

That stand up always scores 1000. The 10k, 30k and 50k inserts are not involved with it. They're located near there making the player think they're related but are based on achieving the 1-6 targets and the power targets. Take the glass off and try it. Hope I'm reading your question correctly. Firepower is simply classic, in your face pinball!

Almost. It's actually the four "FIRE" lanes and the three "POWER" targets that light up for the "Firepower Bonus".

http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/RulesSheet.pdf

viperrwk

#84 6 years ago

Well no wonder why it kicks my arse all he time!

#85 6 years ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

Well no wonder why it kicks my arse all he time!

That's ok - even knowing how it works it will still kick you in the teeth!

viperrwk

#86 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Are parts for rebuilding pops usually available at the shows? Such as Pinball at the Zoo.. Or am I better off ordering online?

Usually Gene would have them, but now that he is out of the picture (he was not at the MPE either), you might have to get them online.

#87 6 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Don't install the wrong pop bodies like I did. My bumper caps are only on with 1 screw and are sitting a little too far forward. But having recently completed the playfield swap, I couldn't be bothered to tear them out again. Does FP call for the older or newer style bodies? That issue, along with the door bell button that someone installed to the front of the cab, are things I still need to address.

Would this be the pop bodies that I need?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=330
Also are the pop spoons generic?

#89 6 years ago

My favorite shot. It's tough!
Targets 2 -6 are lit and target 1 remains. From the right flipper aim for the spinner, but barley nick target 1 as the ball goes through the spinner and locks on top. I've only done a few times, very satisfying... You can complete the same shot on the opposite side for target 6 and the right lock.

fav-shot.jpg

#90 6 years ago

On the subject of favorite shots....it's not actually a shot but I love when this happens: ball shield is on, the left flipper is raised, and the ball drains between the flippers angling to the left, catches the left side of the apron, has enough inertia that it rolls up the apron onto the ball shield switch, and is then kicked back into play. Happened to me twice in the last month and never fails to elicit a smile.

#91 6 years ago

I like when the kickback is lit and the ball drains down the left outlane and goes right past the kickback and drains. Usually happens when I have a good flow going. I can't replicate it with the glass off, but it happens more frequently than it should.

#92 6 years ago

How strong are everyone's kickback solenoids? Most of the time my ball is kicked into the three-bank of standups, occasionally it'll go a little farther up, but never strong enough to send it all the way up to the F-I-R-E lanes. Sometimes it's sent directly into the right outlane, which always sucks.

#93 6 years ago

I guess I'm a bit lucky, my kickback usually hits the 4-6 targets.

However, most of the time I'm very unlucky or just plain stupid. lol
Check this out. I waited in line to get Steve Ritchie's autograph on my Firepower backglass. I thought I was being clever and used a soft blanket to cover the backglass. When I get home, Steve's signature is a blur and most of the blue paint rubbed off. Pissed me off.. Damn blanket! Needless to say, I'm looking for a new backglass.backglass-missing-paint.JPG

#94 6 years ago

What pitch do you guys have your FP set at. My flippers are newly rebuilt and plenty strong, however, making the top lock shot from a cradle proves to be near impossible. The ball drops off of the top ball guide around the "R" and "E" inserts just shy of the lock.

At first I had the pitch set to 6.5, then lowered it to 5.7 and still can't get it in the top lock with the cleanest of shots from a cradle. The spinner spins nice and fast and sits perfectly level as it should. The left and right level of the game is perfect also. PF is new and clean, balls are new and clean.

Is the pitch still too high for this era of game or is there something else that could be slowing the ball down?... Thoughts???

-Steve Ridge

#95 6 years ago

I found around 5.2 just right on my Firepower. Tried around 6 to 6.5 which is what seems to be the recommended setting.

Found the shot to the top lock impossible at 6.5 & also at around 6 when cradling the ball & I also felt that it was generally too fast around the flipper area to control the ball properly.

My flippers are fully rebuit with 38 to 40 volts present & are very powerful.

At 5.2 can make the distance to the lock no problem when cradling the ball, but still is a difficult shot. (How it should be)

One adjustment I made that made the most difference to the shot was changing the angle of the flippers, moving them in a downward direction with the bottom of the bat pretty much lining up to the factory hole guides (without rubbers on). Before i made this this flipper adjustment I could not make the lock from a cradled ball even at 5.2.

To the eye, the flipper angles almost don't look right, a bit too much downward angle, but I think this is correct with the hole guides, more importantly makes the shot set there.

I found when I checked the angles on my Bally games, which I had only ever set up the angles by what felt right & not by measuring angles before, i found they were all around 5 degrees.

#96 6 years ago

Mine is set at 6.5 as recommended. Flippers rebuilt also new flipper button switches. Plenty of power to reach the kickout, of course the shot has a be a good one. Never checked the flipper coil voltage. Haven't learned how to do this yet. Anybody want to enlighten me on how this is done?. Settings for MM and such.. Mine are lined up to the flipper setting hole with the rubbers on. Is that wrong?

#97 6 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Mine is set at 6.5 as recommended. Flippers rebuilt also new flipper button switches. Plenty of power to reach the kickout, of course the shot has a be a good one. Never checked the flipper coil voltage. Haven't learned how to do this yet. Anybody want to enlighten me on how this is done?. Settings for MM and such.. Mine are lined up to the flipper setting hole with the rubbers on. Is that wrong?

I always thought FP was supposed to be at a flatter angle than 6.5. I could be wrong. It's easy to check voltage at your flippers. You'll need a multi-meter. Set it for DC volts at a setting above what you're planning on testing. In this case the setting above 40 vdc. Which on most meters is 100vdc. Slide the black lead under a ground strap somewhere nearby, and with the power on (and the coin door closed on newer games) touch the red lead to the terminals on the flipper coil. Read the meter. That simple.

I just got my FP up and running the other day, and was planning on selling it along with my BK. Not anymore. I forgot how much fun these 2 classics are! Even the wife said "keep them both". Great games!

Mike

#98 6 years ago
Quoted from papazit1963:

I always thought FP was supposed to be at a flatter angle than 6.5. I could be wrong. It's easy to check voltage at your flippers. You'll need a multi-meter. Set it for DC volts at a setting above what you're planning on testing. In this case the setting above 40 vdc. Which on most meters is 100vdc. Slide the black lead under a ground strap somewhere nearby, and with the power on (and the coin door closed on newer games) touch the red lead to the terminals on the flipper coil. Read the meter. That simple.
I just got my FP up and running the other day, and was planning on selling it along with my BK. Not anymore. I forgot how much fun these 2 classics are! Even the wife said "keep them both". Great games!
Mike

Thanks Mike, sounds simple enough. I'm new to all this. Got my first (Firepower) and only so far about 10 months ago. Learned a lot since then, and learning a lot more thanks to all the great people on pinside. I just read that pins generally are set to 6 or 7, so I chose 6.5. That's my only reason. If it should be less, would love to know that.

Jack

#99 6 years ago

Which is correct for Firepower... Everybody says to set EOS switches to 1/8" gap. The Williams Flipper Maintenance manual says adjust EOS to 3/32". Which is correct or what have you guys found is best?
Also is there a listing somewhere that tells the coil sleeve lengths to use on the rest of the coils in firepower beside the flipper coils?
Sorry about being a pain, but I'm a newbie to all this.. I'm sure my questions are all pretty mundane to the rest of you guys..

Jack

#100 6 years ago

The coil sleeves are in the 1980 williams parts manual jack

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