(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Robotworkshop
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There are 3661 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 74.
#851 3 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

I can't get this shot regularly at all ... If anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate it.

take the glass off, stand at the side and try it by hand.. sometimes its easier to see whats deviating the ball when you're up close

#852 3 years ago

I'm interested in doing the drop target swap -- can someone who has done it link the 10-pt switch that is required?

thanks,
mof

#853 3 years ago

Man, I really gotta get my Firepower fixed. Nothing big wrong with it, just lots of little things. Unfortunately a fried speech decoder chip is one of them.

-Hans

#854 3 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

Ha! I can't get this shot regularly at all and have been trying to figure out why. Sometimes it hits the lock but most times it just falls away. I've tried leveling, bending the metal guides, did a full flipper rebuild per the Vid thread, adjusted the spinner endlessly all to no avail. I've given up on it. If anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate it.

I have no issues with the left lock. The top lock is easy with new the new flipper mechs I put in. When you get a good spinner rip and it goes up into the top lock, it's a great feeling! The one on the right is a different story. I always seem to be banging around the entrance or part way up to the hole. What pisses me off even more is when that one kicks out it's a 50/50 chance that I'm going to get a drain straight down the middle. I'm not sure what I can adjust to prevent that. Someone told me that the game was designed to kick that ball out and have it come down to the right flipper.

This game can be evil at times...

#855 3 years ago

I've had 2 Firepowers in the last several years and the one I sold, had a brutal right lock. Almost every shot would rattle in the chute and not lock. My current one NEVER does that.

Most times the eject from the right lock barely misses the right sling and hits the right flipper.

I never get bounce outs on any of my locks for some reason.

#856 3 years ago

Firepower is in the back of the vehicle. There are a few bad spots on the playfield that need touch up but it's not too bad.

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#857 3 years ago

Welcome to the club!

#858 3 years ago

That was my best day too!

#859 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

I have no issues with the left lock. The top lock is easy with new the new flipper mechs I put in. When you get a good spinner rip and it goes up into the top lock, it's a great feeling! The one on the right is a different story. I always seem to be banging around the entrance or part way up to the hole. What pisses me off even more is when that one kicks out it's a 50/50 chance that I'm going to get a drain straight down the middle. I'm not sure what I can adjust to prevent that. Someone told me that the game was designed to kick that ball out and have it come down to the right flipper.
This game can be evil at times...

What flipper mechs did you use? Did you upgrade to Fliptronic style? Use original?

#860 3 years ago

Or go home.
-mof

#861 3 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

What flipper mechs did you use? Did you upgrade to Fliptronic style? Use original?

This is what I ordered:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

Coil : SFL-19-400/30-750
Coil Stop : A-12111
EOS switch: 03-7811 (high voltage) - you have to send Terry an email for this after you place the order

This is based on what Vid suggested in his guide which is located here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

The game plays very differently now, it's much better.

DZ.

#862 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

This is what I ordered:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172
Coil : SFL-19-400/30-750
Coil Stop : A-12111
EOS switch: 03-7811 (high voltage) - you have to send Terry an email for this after you place the order
This is based on what Vid suggested in his guide which is located here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
The game plays very differently now, it's much better.
DZ.

I did all of this, but I'm not sure which coil stop I have. I can make the shot with a perfect shot, but it doesn't hit the shot with authority.

#863 3 years ago

I ordered the components separately since I had good coils. I can hit the top lock shot like a rocket. I'm using the coil stop that comes with the 88-91 Williams rebuild kit pbl_0288-1191. It looks right to me...

#864 3 years ago

I've got regular, non-upgraded coils, but I replaced bats, bushings, and the stop on one. I can make all three of them no issue, provided they are well aimed, the original style could do provide enough power if they are in good shape.

#865 3 years ago

I'm looking for a hi-res photo of a nice looking (working) Firepower II playfield. Who has the nicest FP2 playfield? Please send me a pm if you're willing to help me out.

Jonathan

#866 3 years ago

In case anyone needs to replace their rails, you can get Taylor to make them for you (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oak-replacement-playfield-rails-wh2o-and-taf-ready-to-ship-or-york).

If you are handy and have access to a table saw, you can do it yourself cheap and easy. The rails are 1-1/8" high and 1/2" wide in various lengths. You can use the following for the material:

US - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oak-Hobby-Board-Common-1-2-in-x-4-in-x-3-ft-Actual-0-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-36-in-5x4x3OR/206750862

Canada - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.oak-hobby-board-12-x-3-x-4-feet.1000761164.html

When you rip the piece with the table saw you will have enough left over to run it through again to make a second piece. Cut them to length, sand all the edges a bit just to remove the sharpness. Paint or stain them whatever colour you like. I ended up making mine black but thought about red or blue or some combination. The paint/stain will probably cost you more than the material!

This is definitely not rocket science and I think they look a lot better than that fake oak wrap that was used in the factory!

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#867 3 years ago

That's pretty sweet! I think I'll eventually do that!

#868 3 years ago

Any chance of a thread documenting this? I'd love to try it.

Quoted from dzorbas:

In case anyone needs to replace their rails, you can get Taylor to make them for you (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oak-replacement-playfield-rails-wh2o-and-taf-ready-to-ship-or-york).
If you are handy and have access to a table saw, you can do it yourself cheap and easy. The rails are 1-1/8" high and 1/2" wide in various lengths. You can use the following for the material:
US - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oak-Hobby-Board-Common-1-2-in-x-4-in-x-3-ft-Actual-0-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-36-in-5x4x3OR/206750862
Canada - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.oak-hobby-board-12-x-3-x-4-feet.1000761164.html
When you rip the piece with the table saw you will have enough left over to run it through again to make a second piece. Cut them to length, sand all the edges a bit just to remove the sharpness. Paint or stain them whatever colour you like. I ended up making mine black but thought about red or blue or some combination. The paint/stain will probably cost you more than the material!
This is definitely not rocket science and I think they look a lot better than that fake oak wrap that was used in the factory!

#869 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Any chance of a thread documenting this? I'd love to try it.

I thought it would have been good to have taken some pictures but it was after the fact! There really isn't much too it. Sorry for the wordiness!

The boards I have listed are the proper thickness. If you have a table saw, set the fence at 1-1/8" from the blade. I use a ruler and measure from the teeth of the blade to the fence so I have the absolute proper width. It doesn't hurt to run a scrap piece of wood through the saw to check that you have set it accurately.

When you are happy with the setting, run the oak through the first time. Then take whatever is left and run it though again. If you bought the piece from Home Depot in the US the remaining piece should should be close to the right width. This should give you enough pieces plus extra for the entire game. There are really only 4 pieces along the sides of the game and the shooter lane that need to be replaced. The pieces at the top of the playfield are a different width so I didn't bother with them. I used a black Sharpie on the exposed parts of the wood just so it matched the side rails. You can paint them if you like, I was just being lazy.

Take off the apron and the unscrew any plastics that rest on the rails. You'll also have to remove the small nails and screws (you will reuse these) in the metal ball guides on the left side of the game. Measure up the old pieces and cut your new ones to the proper length. The cut pieces will have sharp edges so sand them lightly to smooth them out a bit. Now you have to decide whether to paint or stain them. Taylor suggest spraying a clear lacquer over them as a final coat for some added durability. I figured I could always repaint them or make new ones if they got to beat up.

Tilt your playfield up and start removing the screws that hold each original piece to the playfield. It would be best if you can line up the new piece, mark it though one of the existing holes in the playfield, drill a small pilot hole and then put the first screw in. Once you get one in, you can drill the remaining pilots based on the existing holes. The other option is to use the old piece as a guide. Put it beside the new piece, mark the holes and drill them.

Once you've put all the screws back in you can lower your playfield. You should drill some pilot holes where the small nails and screws were in the ball guides. It will be easier to nail and screw them back in this way. Put your plastics back in position and any other parts (gates, spinner) that were attached to the rails. Drill pilots and replace the screws.

I think that's about it. Let me know if you have any questions.

Good luck!

#870 3 years ago

Out of curiosity, anyone know if white or yellow flipper bats are original? Are both at different times during the production run?

#871 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Out of curiosity, anyone know if white or yellow flipper bats are original? Are both at different times during the production run?

Was wondering the same. I see game flyers with both colors.

#872 3 years ago

Pretty much done with coin door. Back box next.

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#873 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Pretty much done with coin door. Back box next.

Looks great! What'd you do? Just metal polish and elbow grease?

#874 3 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Looks great! What'd you do? Just metal polish and elbow grease?

And cherry picking 2 1/2 doors. Paint is drying on the light board right now. New displays on UPS tomorrow.

#875 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Pretty much done with coin door. Back box next.

Yikes! That looks brand new! I'm embarrassed by how bad mine looks! I figure nobody sees the inside of it so I don't worry about it...

Great job!

#876 3 years ago

What product did you use for the polishing on that? I'd love to rebuild my coin door at some point.

#877 3 years ago

I got the results below on a yucky Bally door with just Mother's California Gold liquid metal polish and some elbow grease. Highly recommended.

https://images.pinside.com/f/67/4a/f674a06e0e8a8ef9eabae732d1c83ae98614b7d3.jpg

#878 3 years ago

Paint, wire harness in dishwasher and new displays while watching football yesterday.

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#879 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Paint, wire harness in dishwasher and new displays while watching football yesterday.

You have way too much time on your hands! Good job!

Did you get your plastics yet?

#880 3 years ago

Yes and I was missing the same ones I think. I looked in package but didn't get out the playfield to triple check. Well... If it's a complete set besides the "extras" it is still WAY better than my old warped, yellow ones.

#881 3 years ago

Started tackling my Firepower project. As you can see, the playfield is not the greatest, but for a cheap barn find, I can touch it up. It will take a bit of work from me, but I'm not too worried about it.
IMG_3341 (resized).JPG

Last night I started from the bottom of the playfield working my way towards the top. I got right to the bottom of the pop bumpers and will pick up again soon on another day. I would like to tumble the smaller metal parts to make them nice and shiny, but again that will be for another day. I'm more worried about the main stuff right now and will work on the more intricate stuff later on. I am cleaning the plastics, playfield and post currently. Taking on the inserts will be a whole other project in itself.

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#882 3 years ago

The black really looks dirty and nasty (and it really is), but with a little Novus 2 it's actually shining pretty nicely. I'm guessing a coat of wax at the end will shine it up even more.

#883 3 years ago

Looks great Bugsy! Congrats!

#884 3 years ago

Did we ever figure out what the correct/original flipper rubber color was?

#885 3 years ago

Anyone know where I can get a set of roms?

#886 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Did we ever figure out what the correct/original flipper rubber color was?

http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/PlayfieldParts.pdf shows 23A-6519-4 which is red

page 11 of http://www.firepowerpinball.co.uk/2ya/downloads/FP-497-Parts.pdf also shows red

so .. red seems like the answer

#887 3 years ago
Quoted from Lysurgeon:

Anyone know where I can get a set of roms?

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/sys37.html

ThatPinballPlace is JohnWartJr on here. Great to deal with.

#888 3 years ago

I wouldn't be surprised if the rubbers on my game haven't ever been changed. Can agree that the flipper color is probably red.

#889 3 years ago

How many could use a new set of plastics for their FP?

I'm about to start the restoration on mine, and would love a new set (without giving up kidney and a few other body parts). I contacted Rick at PPS a few months ago and he said he'd consider it, but didn't think the demand was really there (or people would say they want them, but then when made no one would order). With 17,410 made, and it gaining some popularity lately, you'd think the demand would be there (similarly for backglasses and playfields).

#890 3 years ago

Just kidney'd up for a plastic set but would be in for playfield and back glass. Hell, I would take 2 of each.

#891 3 years ago

CPR made reproduction plastics and playfields and they are very scarce these days. I would be in for one of both.

#892 3 years ago

Since we're talking about new plastics & playfields..... how would you touch up these bad spots? A pinball guy about 2 hours from me could make it look good for $300 but if I could get a close match or if someone may be making a new pf.... that would be great.

I was thinking about contacting a local art student and see if somebody there would be interested in doing something.

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#893 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Since we're talking about new plastics & playfields..... how would you touch up these bad spots? A pinball guy about 2 hours from me could make it look good for $300 but if I could get a close match or if someone may be making a new pf.... that would be great.
I was thinking about contacting a local art student and see if somebody there would be interested in doing something.

The spots in the white actually aren't too bad...the harder area would be the slight part in the blue on the ship in the halftone area. For the white, some createx white and add some yellow/black until you get a reasonable match (if you add enough color elements it is difficult to see when you are slightly "off"). Here's an example: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-firepower-playfield-restoration#post-3186534

Then you can continue some of the shapes in the red/green/purple/blues, or just make some up (no one can tell unless you have two sitting next to each other). Any touchup will then need to be cleared which is probably the most difficult part.

#894 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Since we're talking about new plastics & playfields..... how would you touch up these bad spots? A pinball guy about 2 hours from me could make it look good for $300 but if I could get a close match or if someone may be making a new pf.... that would be great.
I was thinking about contacting a local art student and see if somebody there would be interested in doing something.

I would more worried about removing the 2 big yellow arrows

$300 that's pretty steep. Like has been said, someone needs to do another run. With over 17,000 of them there is a market.

You could probably send it to a professional and have the whole thing touched up and cleared and be much happier in the long run.

#895 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

I would more worried about removing the 2 big yellow arrows

I was thinking the same thing!

setzkor, those touchups you did to the planet are inspirational! Nice job!

#896 3 years ago

Thanks, gotta love nice random artwork for us amateurs! I'm still amazed at the disaster the clear coat looks like after I brush it on, then how nice it looks once dry. Though now I think I'm to the point with it where I will spray on the next coat over the decals. I have to drive to a buddies house and bug him, so I wanted to do as much as I could in the garage with a brush, but spraying is really the way to go.

#897 3 years ago

If they made another run of plastics I would be in for sure.

#898 3 years ago
Quoted from kuelman:

If they made another run of plastics I would be in for sure.

+2 that'd be sweet.

#899 3 years ago

Played Firepower for the first time at my firend's house last weekend. Loved it!

Good to strip it down away from all the lighting, limited runs, bling and gimmicks and just play pinball. It felt good. Fantastic game. You all are fortunate.

#900 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Just kidney'd up for a plastic set but would be in for playfield and back glass. Hell, I would take 2 of each.

You know you can get a repro backglass from Mayfair Amusements in New York right? Apparently they were made by Williams in the 80s or 90s. I picked one up a while back. The colours aren't 100% the same as the original but it looks really nice particularly when you put coloured LEDs in the right spots in the back box. Not cheap for someone in Canada but my game has a CPR playfield and plastics so it only made sense to get a nice backglass for it!

Check this post for a picture:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-firepower-club/page/15#post-3184173

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