I am still looking for a firepower playfield that is in decent shape or a reproduction playfield. Darn they are really hard to find. If someone has one for sale or knows where I might find one please shoot me a message.

Thanks

I'm sure some of you might be looking for the CPR repro plastics set. I know they are hard to find as well. Apparently you can get them from Best of Pinball in Germany.

Here's the link: http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/10848/session/true

My set is on the way. I will post again when they arrive.

Looks like I got the last one.

Just joined this prestigious club. Picked up a barn find last night and it's pretty rough. But I'm looking forward to getting it back to it's glory days.

Let's see it!

In my giddiness last night I forgot to take pics of the full game. But here it is in the back of the car, and some board shots. Cleaned up the boards with a little vinegar to neutralize the battery acid. Will need to repin and resolder all the cold solder joints. I won't even get started on what else it needs, I'm trying to take it one step at a time.

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Is Firepower a machine where it would be easy to take the back box off or does it bend over on a hinge with a bunch of wires attached?

You can unplug some connectors, remove the 4 head bolts and separate the back box off from the rest of the machine.

I've moved my Firepower at least 10 times (shows and moving to a new house) since I've owned it. I always remove the back box when moving it.

Yes... it does not hinge forward like newer games. But it's only about 5-7 harnesses to unplug.
Once the 4 bolts are removed (if all four are even being utilized)... you need to bring the head forward about an inch, to slip the back bracket away from the flange mounted to the base. Then list the head off.

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That flange also makes it tons easier reattaching the back box.

Agreed. Assuming the previous owners didn't bend/crush it out of alignment, by remounting the head incorrectly.

You guys are the best! Thank you very much.

Just 2 weeks until we head down to Kansas City MO for a family reunion & pick up the Firepower and F-14 Tomcat. Should be a fun road trip which we haven't done in a long time.

Also very easy to pull the playfield, which makes moving the cabinet much easier

If I pull the head and playfield I can move the game upstairs by myself no problem.

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If I want to LED my game, does it require any newer lamp driver boards, or anything like that? Or are these Williams ready to go as is? I know the older Bally's require a new Alltek board, so not sure about these.

No new boards, but for mine at least, a lot of the controlled lamps required non-ghosting bulbs. And for the 89 flashers you will need to clip the warming resistor...

Be prepared for some disappointment. I just received my set and the seller removed the extra sling, target and 1000 point covers along with a couple of the key fobs. You will end up with 22 of the 29 original CPR pieces and the topper. I was curious how they were selling those items separately on their site. Now I know. I'm a bit pissed off. I will be sending them an email but I'm sure they won't do anything about it.

Be careful when you order from Best of Pinball in Germany...

Any word on getting those pop bumper caps?

Yes they came in. Much better than my originals but could use the red ink to be darker.

I need a Firepower backglass. The game is a project so I don't want anything fancy. As of now it has nothing so even a terrible backglass would be ok. If the game cleans up nicely maybe I'll consider a repro but for now anything is better than nothing.

Wish you were closer. I have one that's a little beat up.

Very easy, just disco connectors. A lot easier than Bally pins of same era.

As an update: I rebuilt the ball 2 switch with new blades because it suffered from the infamous backwards leaf switch syndrome and all is back to normal. As a reminder to all including myself, check all of your leaf switches to make sure the rivets have the correct orientation!

A lot of times you can take apart the switch stack and correct the contacts and be fine. If you still have issues go ahead and replace switch.

I could've but there was a lot of wear on on the leaf opposing the rivet so I figured I'd start fresh. Thanks for replying.

I guess stern wasn't the only ones with awesome QC. I am amazed how many of those switches went out in so many games.

I thought I might put up a few pictures here and there in this thread of progress on my project game. There are a million full restoration threads but I am just turning a well worn routed machine into a nice player.

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Any and all restorations are unique processes...you might happen upon something no one else has. Pictures are also awesome to look at!

I'm looking for a nice FP, if anyone has a lead please PM me.

Thanks

Has anyone considered modding their game and putting a spinner on the right side of the playfield. You can see what I'm thinking from the picture.

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I know it would be missing the red arrow but you could wire it into the spinner on the other side of the playfield so that they would score the same and they would have the same sound effects. If I could do this without drilling a hole in my playfield, I would consider it. I'm going to do some research and see if there is some way to use an optical sensor where you could run the wires through an existing hole in the playfield rather than the typical mechanical switch.

I think the spinner shot is one of the best shots in the game other than locking the third ball to start multi-ball. Every time i make the right hand shot to the top of the playfield I feel like I'm missing something.

I'd love to hear opinions. And yes, I'm not a traditionalist so I don't mind putting some mods into the game!

PM Cheddar -- he tried to add a spinner to Centaur. I don't remember the outcome.
I am very interested in trying this out if you come up with the right shape/style to accomplish it.
-mof

What a great idea!
Wiring - would you somehow combine with existing spinner?

I see you have a F-14 & a Firepower. We're on a long road trip as I type this to pick up those actual games. What are the odds?

I will check in with him.

That was my plan, shouldn't be too hard.

The ultimate goal is to try and do this without putting any holes in the playfield or screwing up any of the plastics. I've already made some minor mods to my game (lit lock holes, post flashers wired to slings and pop bumpers, lit flipper buttons and start button, relocation of a couple of GI bulbs) but everything is reversible.

I'll see if I can come up with something...

You can see some of his work here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-clubmembers-only?tu=Cheddar

-mof

Question.

Should there be a wire ball guide on the right edge of the left ball lock?

Mof

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Stock spinners of this era have a hole through the playfield with a leaf switch below. Modern games have a micro switch on the spinner bracket above the playfield that should work. You will have access holes to run wires under the plastics on either side. The trick will be finding a spinner and bracket that wide. STTNG's spinner may be that wide.

That would be perfect! Time to go searching. I think one of the following two locations would be better except that the spinner will be activated every time you launch a ball. Not the end of the world. These two give me some more flexibility but I have to be careful with height.

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Actually just found this on Marco. This would definitely do the trick but I think it needs to be wider. At least now I know what I'm trying to build and I can buy the parts individually! The single sided mount makes it easier to install but I wonder how stable that would be. Hmmmm....

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Problem with that one is you need to screw 2 holes into the playfield (against one of your goals).

This is more like the bracket I was thinking about. Of course, some assembly is required with this one.... http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8370-01

Just drill one hidden hole behind the post in front, then put this one UNDER that post. Hopefully where the ball strikes the post raised 1/16" won't cause any issues. Might have to fatten the rubber a hair. I can't see not trying this out.
-mof

(quick question) scroll up a few posts, I added a pic -- should there be a wire ball guide where those two pre-made holes are on that CPR playfield?

-mof

Please link the marco version of the spinner above (first one)
-mof

I just checked my original and there are 2 holes in the playfiled but no wire. Can't tell for sure if there ever was a wire in the holes.

Anyone else?

I think this is the one: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/511-5113-00

removed.... bad idea

I don't have one there.

thanks fellas, next question...

Has anyone adjusted anything left ball lock to make the ball lock better?

I have great luck with top right lock, but haven't tried taking a movie of bottom left and watching it in slo-mo to learn why some balls don't lock.

-mof

Good luck with pick up. I think they are a good combo, different personalities. I want to find a BK2, then I'll be complete.

I don't have one at the lower lock or at the upper middle right lock but I do have the holes. I wonder if they got lost along the way or were just not installed from the factory as a cost-cutting measure.

Ha! I can't get this shot regularly at all and have been trying to figure out why. Sometimes it hits the lock but most times it just falls away. I've tried leveling, bending the metal guides, did a full flipper rebuild per the Vid thread, adjusted the spinner endlessly all to no avail. I've given up on it. If anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate it.