(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

6 years ago



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  • 3,396 posts
  • 292 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Pvdj446
  • Topic is favorited by 128 Pinsiders

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There are 3396 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 68.
#701 3 years ago

Another potential issue: while I was playing tonight, I had a second occurrence of something odd. When I locked one ball, the machine then proceeded to release both remaining balls, leading to an inadvertent multi ball. Perhaps something is loose within the mechanism, or is this something erroneously occurring with the game processing? Anyone have a similar issue? 123

#702 3 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

i have one for you

Got more than one??

#703 3 years ago

So I've been having this "left flipper sticking for a second if I hold the button down" issue. I took to looking under the field and noticed that both flippers have different springs and other parts. Take a look:

Right:
IMG_0817_(resized).JPG

Left:
IMG_0816_(resized).JPG

I wonder: was the right one rebuilt? I don't know my a** from my elbow with flippers yet, so does anyone know what the difference between these are...and why I may be having my issue?

IMG_0815_(resized).JPG

#704 3 years ago

Looks like you have a new pawl/plunger and spring on the right one. I would check the flipper height to make sure it's not dragging on the playfield and then replace the return spring and solenoid sleeve. Search for Vid's flipper rebuild guide.

#705 3 years ago

Would something of this sort (plus a spring) fit the bill?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10655-L

#707 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

Got more than one??

actually yes but they are in australiia so you will cry when you get the bill for the playfield plus freight to here plus freight back again, .. you best keep looking

#708 3 years ago

Ooh...Australia....I didn't notice! Thank you, though!

Catboxer: score!! Thank you, they will let me order only the left side, that's perfect!

#709 3 years ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

So I've been having this "left flipper sticking for a second if I hold the button down" issue. I took to looking under the field and noticed that both flippers have different springs and other parts. Take a look:
Right:
IMG_0817_(resized).JPG
Left:
IMG_0816_(resized).JPG
I wonder: was the right one rebuilt? I don't know my a** from my elbow with flippers yet, so does anyone know what the difference between these are...and why I may be having my issue?

IMG_0815_(resized).JPG

Before you buy, read this! Made all the difference to my flipper rebuilds and I brought the full kits too.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

#710 3 years ago

Actually this setup would be going all out. My FP plays phenomenally with these.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

#711 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Actually this setup would be going all out. My FP plays phenomenally with these.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

Agree.
I have these on mine and the game plays fantastic.
Absolutely no problem ripping the spinner and locking the ball in the top lock with these.

#712 3 years ago

Thanks for the input, guys! My coils are in great shape, and I have no issue whatsoever firing the ball all over the entire table. I went with the rebuild kid for originality sake, but would certainly consider replacing the entire thing if it was needed.

#713 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Agree.
I have these on mine and the game plays fantastic.
Absolutely no problem ripping the spinner and locking the ball in the top lock with these.

Guys, when looking at the Pinball Life website, what did you pick for the coil and coil stop? VID's guide says SFL 19/400 - 30/750 for the coil but nothing for the coil stop. What did you select for the coil stop? I'm assuming those setups come with the high voltage EOS switch as well.

Any issues with fitment on the playfield? How about some pictures?

Thanks!

DZ.

#714 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

What did you select for the coil stop?

A-12111

Quoted from dzorbas:

I'm assuming those setups come with the high voltage EOS switch as well.

Nope, you've got to email Terry and tell him you need #03-7811 as a substitution.

Quoted from dzorbas:

How about some pictures?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606

#715 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

What did you select for the coil stop?

A-12111

dzorbas said:

I'm assuming those setups come with the high voltage EOS switch as well.

Nope, you've got to email Terry and tell him you need #03-7811 as a substitution.

dzorbas said:

How about some pictures?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606

Vid is a like a ninja! Unreal! Thanks for the responses.

I did see the pictures in your guide. I was hoping one if the FP owners would post some pictures of their install.

#716 3 years ago

Wondering if anyone has bought/installed a pf protector from bestofpinball in germany? I installed one i bought through bayarea on my HS2 a few years back and was pleased enough with how it fit and helped my lifted inserts. Im wondering if the ones built for star inserts work decent and if buying direct from germay, the only place ive found one, has worked out for folks?

#717 3 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Im wondering if the ones built for star inserts work decent and if buying direct from germay, the only place ive found one, has worked out for folks?

There was a big thread on that a few weeks ago.

Can't find it on my phone....lol

1 week later
#718 3 years ago

What degrees do you guys have your playfield angle set at?

#719 3 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

What degrees do you guys have your playfield angle set at?

6.5 degree's

#720 3 years ago

1980 Firepower Left Kickout. Anybody know where I can get the yellow circled mounting bracket for the left kickout hole? Mine broke at the bent area.

Ball_Kicker_(resized).jpg

#721 3 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

1980 Firepower Left Kickout. Anybody know where I can get the yellow circled mounting bracket for the left kickout hole? Mine broke at the bent area.

I need the Williams A-6950-R Pivot Bracket Aseembly

#722 3 years ago

M

Quoted from J_Cutler:

I need the Williams A-5653 Pivot Bracket Aseembly

Marco has it for less than $7

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-5653

#723 3 years ago

Found this while browsing...its a mock up of cabinet art for a virtual Firepower.

How great would this look on an actual game?

FP_Art_(resized).jpg

#724 3 years ago

Thanks adrift.. Appreciate the help. But my dumbass listed the wrong one. I need A-6950-R which Marco is out of..

#725 3 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Thanks adrift.. Appreciate the help. But my dumbass listed the wrong one. I need A-6950-R which Marco is out of..

Try:

http://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/eject-mounting-bracket-p-5536

#726 3 years ago
Quoted from Adrift:

Found this while browsing...its a mock up of cabinet art for a virtual Firepower.
How great would this look on an actual game?

That's pretty sweet! I like it! I never realized just how crude the painting was on the cabinets until I got my own.

#727 3 years ago
Quoted from J_Cutler:

Thanks adrift.. Appreciate the help. But my dumbass listed the wrong one. I need A-6950-R which Marco is out of..

I would email that part number to Pinball Resource to see if they have it.

The other option is to buy the assembly from someone on eBay.

#728 3 years ago

Couple of color-mod ideas to share:

Since my playfield was destroyed when I got this game, I had to replace almost all of the inserts. I took the opportunity to "fade" the Firepower Bonus Score grid from red to orange, which better matches the painted art on the rest of the game. Note that the "10,000" and "30,000" inserts are starburst pattern replacements; the 50,000 is original and one of just five that I did not have to replace!

I also changed the pop bumper skirts to match the color of their surrounding explosions. This turned out better than I expected... the pf has more color, the pop bumper stands out a little more and if anything, the white shape almost looks more authentic as an "explosion", sorta like a mushroom cloud....

ScorePops_(resized).jpg

Pinsider Captive_Ball posted an awesome mod in another thread which I had to swipe: under-cabinet LED strips tied into the hotdog inserts. They flash when the hotdogs do so the effect is awesome! I suddeny don't mind my nasty open concrete basement floor so much, lol.

FireCop1_(resized).jpg
FireCop2_(resized).jpg

#729 3 years ago

Goingincirclez, I like the idea of matching pop bumper skirts! Can we see those with the machine off and in a lit room? Thanks!

#730 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Can we see those with the machine off and in a lit room?

The lighting in the basement is pretty terrible, so this is the best I can do for now. Not sure what that blocky, bright yellow reflection near the bonus value inserts is from, but it's not in the game. I should have taken the glass off, the bg reflection makes the game look filthy but it isn't!

The skirts are one yellow, two orange, and one red.

20160516_101946_(resized).jpg
20160516_102020_(resized).jpg
20160516_102056_(resized).jpg

#731 3 years ago

Very nice caps on those bumpers! Clean and white. Here's a general question for you play field restorers: How did you take the metal edge trim off that the ball rolls against on the side walls? I see they are held on by small nails, did you pry them off?

#732 3 years ago

Always make sure you get the correct caps, not the crap looking remakes.

ad5f4b0a53b48f8d390081e3e6157d07431fb4e1_(resized).jpg

#733 3 years ago

Boy did I screw up my previous posts. I apologize. I needed part # A-6950-L for the left kickout hole. I did manage to find them at Lakeside Pinball Parts in Louisiana.
http://www.lakesidepinballparts.com/ejectmountingbracket.jpg

Thanks for all your help guys... Glad they still can be bought.

#734 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Always make sure you get the correct caps, not the crap looking remakes.

After searching for a set of correct caps for over two years I had to settle for the crap ones.

#735 3 years ago

I've got 3 originals with my replacement field, though they are roughed up a bit. However, they are not cracked and are serviceable.

#736 3 years ago

If anyone wants a set of the crap ones, I have a set that's just leaving a dump in a drawer somewhere.

#737 3 years ago

The color-coordinated skirts look cool on the bumpers. I see that they are readily available in yellow, orange, and red (as well as a variety of other colors) from a few sources.

Taking the mod a step further...

I also found that the bumper body can also be obtained in either the solid color or in a translucent color (or even clear translucent). While I think the original white caps should stay, what are everyone's thoughts on changing the body in addition to the skirt? If you'd change it, would you go translucent or not?

And while we're at it...leave the light bulb inside the bumper white, or would you color-coordinate the light bulb too?

Lots of possible combinations here....

Bumper_Skirt_(resized).jpg

Bumper_Body_(resized).jpg

Tranlucent_Bumper_Body_(resized).jpg

#738 3 years ago

I would stick with one color or 2 colors diagonally across from each other. That single yellow skirt looks like an Op field repair to me.

#739 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Always make sure you get the correct caps, not the crap looking remakes.

I always found it interesting how all/most original Firepower pop caps have the same flaw on the left side stripes, like there was some dirt or a defect in the hot stamping. Every picture I've seen shows the same smudges.

#740 3 years ago
Quoted from Adrift:

what are everyone's thoughts on changing the body in addition to the skirt?

I actually thought about that but not until after I already ordered the skirts. If I'd had the colored bodies I would have tried, but picturing it in my head didn't convince me to order them. I suspected it would make the caps themselves look too much like UFO's... which might not be a bad thing per se, but once I saw the white body+cap as a mushroom cloud, I kept it that way. Still would be neat to see. There's no doubt a colored translucent body might cast some interesting light effects!

Quoted from catboxer:

I would stick with one color or 2 colors diagonally across from each other. That single yellow skirt looks like an Op field repair to me.

Trouble is, while the yellow one is vivid, it almost perfectly matches a surrounding yellow explosion - going with a darker color (like when I tired orange before installation) made it look weird, like an egg yolk. Opposing corners would look too checkerboardy and again, have inconsistent contrast with the surrounding art. The upper left art is yellow; the lower right is red; the other two are more "orangish" in between.

Quoted from jibmums:

all/most original Firepower pop caps have the same flaw on the left side stripes, like there was some dirt or a defect in the hot stamping. Every picture I've seen shows the same smudges.

Mine are originals and don't have the smudges

#741 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Mine are originals and don't have the smudges

Yeah, I knew someone would chime in and say exactly that.....thus the "most".

#742 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I always found it interesting how all/most original Firepower pop caps have the same flaw on the left side stripes, like there was some dirt or a defect in the hot stamping. Every picture I've seen shows the same smudges.

Latter in the run, someone must have damaged the die that stamps the foil.

Williams obviously did not care, just keep the line moving.

If anyone has a small CNC mill, they could easily make new hot stamp dies that has the correct graphics on them. They are just milled from brass.

1 week later
#743 3 years ago

I recently purchased a Firepower. I found an excellent condition Williams authentic reproduction backglass at Mayfair and am now looking for a playfield. Mine is significantly worn in the usual places. Can anyone direct me to a decent original, restored, or reproduction? I would really like to get the pin in excellent condition.

#744 3 years ago

What is value of non working firepower II? pf has normal wear. boards look clean. Game wont boot as it appears to be missing 5v....Selling for a friend. Game is in MD. He was thinking 400?

I'm gonna reflow ps board tonight. If anyone know which parts to replace on ps to get 5v working let me know link...thx!

#745 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

What is value of non working firepower II? pf has normal wear. boards look clean. Game wont boot as it appears to be missing 5v....Selling for a friend. Game is in MD. He was thinking 400?
I'm gonna reflow ps board tonight. If anyone know which parts to replace on ps to get 5v working let me know link...thx!

Price is Right on point $400-500

#746 3 years ago

So I recently picked up a project Firepower II... guess I'm in the club, sorta

I found some very bleached FPII target decals in the bottom of my cab. All I can find online are FP decals. FPII is just an explosion; no text.

Does anyone know where to get these?

#747 3 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

So I recently picked up a project Firepower II... guess I'm in the club, sorta
I found some very bleached FPII target decals in the bottom of my cab. All I can find online are FP decals. FPII is just an explosion; no text.
Does anyone know where to get these?

Williams Blackout and Sorcerer both use the same explosion decal. You can find sets for those machines and just buy two sets to get the number you need. Or... I have the Firepower targets on my FPII, which I purchased from pinballdecals.com. They are thick nice quality targets which are holding up really well to the abuse in my machine, I highly recommend them. IPDB has a picture of the target you need under Blackout. Contact pinballdecals and I am betting they can make you a set. I wish I would of done that.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=317&picno=59970

http://www.pinballdecals.com/index.html

#748 3 years ago

FPII_(resized).jpg

The decals are thick enough that there is an indentation in back for the rivet and no hole in the image is needed so they could maybe fill the center of the image in solid yellow for you.

#749 3 years ago

I recently picked up a NOS back glass, allegedly from an artist estate and never used in a game. It's virtually flawless except for a few minor imperfections.

Anyway, comparing it to my original, the colors are different. My original has more of a reddish hue, but the other has more yellow and better contrast in the words, as well as thicker mirrored edges around the lettering, etc.

Sorry for the horrible photo, I never had time for photos until late last night and lousy indoor lighting is my potato cam's enemy...

... Anyway, does anyone know the history of these differences?

20160603_224414_(resized).jpg

#750 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I recently picked up a NOS back glass, allegedly from an artist estate and never used in a game. It's virtually flawless except for a few minor imperfections.
Anyway, comparing it to my original, the colors are different. My original has more of a reddish hue, but the other has more yellow and better contrast in the words, as well as thicker mirrored edges.
Sorry for the horrible photo, I never had time for photos until last night and lighting is my potato cam's enemy...
... Anyway, does anyone know the history of these differences?

That looks an awful lot like the reproduction backglass that I bought from Mayfair but I can't be certain. I just realized how much thicker and heavier the original glass is!

Sorry about the crappy pictures!

Original glass below

original_backgass_(resized).jpg

Reproduction glass below

reproduction_backglass_(resized).jpg

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