Probably has a cap or it's a SUV

OK gents and cooler ladies, the lockout coil on the coin door: is that supposed to have a spring connecting its mounting bracket to the lockout flap?

It looks like hooks are there to connect a spring, but if there ever was one in my wrecked machine it's nowhere to be found. Or maybe it works without a spring? Can someone let me know either way?

It's supposed to have a spring. All relays need a spring to return to their "non-engaged" position (except solid state relays I suppose).

Everyone...I finally got my first pin last night! Picked up my Firepower from an incredibly nice buyer, I could not have had a better experience. He took me through the entire machine, all the work he had done, and what new parts he had. Then he helped me break down, move, and pack the parts into my truck.

For those who asked what I wanted to know the machine dimensions for, take a look at this picture:

IMG_0781_(resized).JPG

I have a 5' truck bed, and the clearance from the top of the front of the machine from the roll-top was of concern, but it fit just fine. It was late at night, but I just couldn't resist setting it up in my basement when I got back:

IMG_0783_(resized).JPG
IMG_0784_(resized).JPG

It works 100%, we ran through an entire "game" with the glass off and checked all functions. There is a bit of wear by some of the multiplier lights, but that is it. It was so exciting to power it up and play my first game down there. Of course, I am already deciding what I want to replace on it. It does have an issue where striking targets 1-6 in the front causes the ball to sometimes pop up and hit the glass if hit hard dead on, and I assume that is due to the very rounded and worn nature of them. They will have to be replaced. I am also having a tough time getting the back glass back in...it doesn't seem to slide up far enough for me to then push the lower part in.

Thanks everyone who previously helped me find a machine that I have wanted for over two years!

You just need some new foam backing behind those standup targets. Make sure you backbox lock is all the way turned over. If not, glass wont fit.

It was great meeting you last night La_Porta. I'm glad you got the FirePower home and set up with no problems.
Contact me about the back glass issue, I'm sure it's a simple fix. Enjoy! -Bill

Awesome work on getting a good pin and having a positive purchase experience

You may want to move the pin or cover up the window - the sunlight really fades everything (cabinet, playfield, plastics, etc).
--
Jeremy

A move or a curtain are certainly in my future! I thought about the sunlight this morning, but I also have to find a spot that works for the wife.

I just had used the wrong key, that solved the back glass problem! At least I got to oil the locking mechanism while I was there. How does one get new foam backing for the targets?

Pinball suppliers such as Marco sell them.

But it's virtually identical to 1/4" gray foam weatherstripping. So if you have a roll of that, it would do a lifetime's worth of pin targets... and a couple windows too!

Got the 1/4"...would you be able to send me a picture of how it looks when installed? Looking at mine, I think there is absolutely none, because all I have is a large gap behind all of the targets.

The foam is installed like in the first picture on this page (random google image search): http://www.pinplay.com/9-2/is_woz_auto-launching_balls_check_your_switches.html

Thanks to the help from goingincirclez and Schwaggs, I was able to replace the stickers with ones provided when I purchased the game, back the targets with foam, and get the targets all nice and straight again. The ball bouncing back and banging the glass has indeed stopped. Thanks!

IMG_0795_(resized).jpgIMG_0794_(resized).jpg

Looks great!

I've had my firepower for a few months now. The volume seems to increase the longer that machine is turned on. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

thanks,

I have intermittent volume issues...I think it is due to intermittent issues with the volume control, which is some sort of variable resistor, I think. There may be something going on with yours as well.

You know I sell replacements, right? One style snaps on to the sound board; the second style requires crimping but can be installed using existing cable running behind the coin door. Either way you get a brand new potentiometer for your volume control.

I also make a replacement for the speech/sound mixer on the speech board, but that takes soldering to install.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

Potentiometer! That's the word I was looking for. I had a brain fart last night. I'll certainly look into what you've got.

Is there a way to check if it is the potentiometer without replacing it first? Last night the sound actually cut out totally after the game was turned on for a couple of hours and then played. I turned it off and back on again and the sound came back.

I looked at your site. How are your pots different from the originals? Couldn't I just buy a matching pot and solder it in if the pot is the issue?

The ones I use are 35 years newer. They no longer manufacture ones that are pin-compatible with the Williams system 3-7 boards. Everything is on a significantly smaller scale these days so soldering direct to cables - while possible - will take some pretty delicate handiwork. These don't fly off the shelf like my WPC Daughterboards, but those who bought them have been happy.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for Williams system 3-7 sound board potentiometer solutions

Anyone know for certain what tension the plunger spring on a Firepower has? There are a whole bunch of different types on Marco parts, and I am unsure which one is correct.

Does anyone know if CPR have any plans to do another run of these playfields. I would be in for one, for sure.
Mine is ok , but would love a new one.

From what I understand is that CPR won't rerun playfields once the run is completed. They even say on their site not to ask. They have so many in the works that it would be very difficult to go back and do reruns AND keep up with demand for the ones currently in production.

I'm on the Space Invaders pre-order list and that one is still at least a year out. They also have a gauging interest list for playfields that have art completed or almost completed. If they get enough interest then it will go in queue for production way down the line.

10-128 is the spring for the kicker and 10-135 is the spring for the flipper...unless you meant a different plunger.

Sorry, I meant the non-barrel spring for the ball shooter that slides over the nylon piece. I'm still learning all the proper terminology for these things.

You've got a fancy bottom there......

That's OK...I am as well.

The long spring in the shooter assembly is 10-148-1. The barrel spring is 10-149.

Much appreciated. Are you getting those part numbers from original Williams documentation?

I only wish I had the original documentation! I'm using the Williams Parts Catalog that is available through Planetary Pinball's site: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1980/index.html

Please take a close look. See any problems? Along with the credits, player 1 and 2 displays are missing the bottom left segment. Player 3 and 4 are fine.

firepower-score_(resized).JPG

Burned up 10k resistor in position R5 (just above and slightly to the left of the display glass)

Looking for an assist. I have no power at my left flipper. Right switch has 40v and the left switch has no voltage. Solder joints look good on the board, i even reflowed just in case.

EDIT: tracked the problem to a badly seated plug wire at driver board. Back up and kickin my ass!

JPD has a new CPR FP playfield for sale, not marked as sold yet.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/80519-FIREPOWER-playfield

Yes, but those displays are high voltage and low current. There must be a short somewhere causing the resistor to burn.

As of Saturday April 23, I officially paid my restoration dues and got to put the machine back together and play my first test games...!

20160423_165308_(resized).jpg

Needless to say that score had some funny business involved, but it's been working fine (and kicking my ass) since then. Love this game. The sounds are enthralling for the day.

What is the proper pitch for it? I have it set to 5.7 - which incidentally, is about as high as the legs will go - and it seems hard enough, but I don't want it to be "too easy" either.

What was it you did to this machine? Also, how do you measure this pitch?

A shorter answer would be, what *haven't* I done to the machine (um, remove the wiring harness and install all new switches?)... I literally rebuilt almost every component from the playfield to the boards, and parts of the cabinet. I'm using a Rottendog CPU/Driver to get me over some bafflingly stupid hump with the original set, which I eventually will figure out... meanwhile the PS, sound, and speech boards were rebuilt by me. I also replaced almost every playfield insert. A summary is here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/this-ongoing-saga-says-if-im-wile-e-coyote

It's not a full showroom restoration - there's a lot I deemed "good enough" in its as-found condition, as I wanted to retain some character. But it was still a ton of work and fun. Can't wait to do another sometime.

As for the pitch, I use the "Clinometer" Andriod app with phone on the playfield.

I wish the score displays were that easy to fix!!

Man, I read through that...that was insane! A question for you is: do the insert decals rest directly over the inserts themselves, or do they lay over the insert and part of the play field? I have been contemplating getting away with just repairing the inserts, putting down the deal on them (while off the play field), and sealing the decal in with clear. Afterwards, I will glue it flush with the table surface. This comes from A: not wanting to remove everything off the play field, and B: not wanting to ruin it/use up a lot of time and money to my wife's consternation!

Is this a simple fix? Just replace with 10k resistor?

firepower-score2_(resized).jpg

Yes but there is a reason it fried. One of your displays may have a shorted segment that caused the resistor to overheat and burn up. Replace the resistor and connect everything back up. When you power back up, take a close look at the segment that is now out on P1, P2 and the master display board. The segment on one of the displays will be off or dimmer than the others displays. If so, most likely, this is the display that caused the resistor to burn up. You should replace that display.

The decals are designed so that the black outline - called a keyline - overlaps the seam between the insert and the playfield. This hides the seam, and provides a little wiggle room for centering and alignment to surrounding art, etc. So it's important to have the inserts and playfield smooth and level with no gaps, therefore you must apply your decals with the inserts already in the game.

You could apply the decals directly to an uncoated insert much the same as you'd apply a decal to a plastic model. But I wouldn't recommend this because adhesion might become an issue later. Your best bet is to get a coat of clear across the entire surface for uniformity, then apply the decals, then seal them under another coat of clear.

Take it from my experience: leveling and gluing inserts is as much art as it is science. You'd be heartbroken to get nice art and decals and such on your inserts, and then have a glue disaster ruin them as you try to install. It's very likely that one might not set perfectly, requiring some sanding or fill to level it... in which case you'll be grateful you saved your decals for the last step, AFTER the inserts are verified seated and properly level. Keep in mind, new inserts HAVE to be sanded to fit, anyway...

I've had a few questions about my under cabinet lighting. Here's a quick video on how I did it. Matrix system by Comet Pinball.

Thanks for that video Jumping-Box. Art will especially appreciate it. I may even have some Comet strips on hand to duplicate that with some soldering. Imagine red/blue LED strips up and down the whole underside of the cab! Thanks again!

Added to my website....Great Job!

Thanks for sharing!

More new Matrix Products coming soon...

There are a lot of options now. I'm thinking about adding green lights to locks.

That's pretty cool! I like it.

That was one of the first things I did. Cheap and easy and looks cool. Look back at posts 514 and 553 in this thread for more info.

Well that answers my power tapping question from pages ago. I have all kinds of ideas now that I can use these 6V Matrix products... Awesome!