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Gottlieb, 1965You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vec-tor.
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Looking for someone that has a Recel Top Speed that has accesses to the game.
I need a masking tape copy/pattern of the metal ball trap brackets that have the three
balls captured on the playfield.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Quoted from pinhead52:Nope this is a NA EK EM, big sq must have been original, look at the slot...[quoted image]
Please show us the picture of the entire switch assembly...
Not just the face...
Bally Eight Ball was the first production to use the the wide square target.
All productions of Evil Knievel had the round red target for the center target.
The game went into production with out the "new custom target"...
Note: Evil Knievel EM playfields are different to the Solid State version...
------ The pop bumper holes in the playfield are different/revers from each style of production.
It is possible that you could have a sample if the serial numbers are in the tens.
Quoted from John_I:As part of this restoration, I finally got around to designing a solution for the busted up score reel card guides. It took me a while to design these myself and get the dimensions all correct and the holes to line up. I also added some strength to the design where possible. I can now pop them out on my 3D printer and install with #2 hardware. Basically all of the card guides in this game are either totally broken or partially broken. Even the best couple are holding on by a thread, so I'll be replacing them all. My Ship Mates also needs a full set of these. If anyone needs some, I'll make them for a reasonable price. Send me a PM if you want some.
I had to go through the same thing a year ago...
A Pinsider with a machine shop made the same thing...
Pinball Resource was not interested in stocking the part...
Good job.
Quoted from pinhead52:Nope this is a NA EK EM, big sq must have been original, look at the slot...[quoted image]
You could try Williams part # 3A-7431-4-5-18.
Quoted from Tyamry:Here are a couple of pics.[quoted image][quoted image]
That is a sample game. Rare.
Quoted from JethroP:Looking for the nylon wheel for my Bonus Unit. It is for a Bally Freedom. I suppose there are other games that use the same wheel. Anyone have something that will work? Anyone ever tried to restore the broken tooth with JB weld or similar product?[quoted image][quoted image]
Might have to "sandwich" thin metal strips to the wheel in order to make a "Tooth" for
the step-up/step-down ratchet arms.
Quoted from RWH:Did you call Steve personally and ask for this or just look at his site? He has many more parts that are not shown on his site so I always call them or text them.
Or if all else fails... try and make a decal of the artwork and get a blank cap.
Quoted from pinhead52:this ek pf seems to have extra holes, may be a solid state one
Ding, Ding... Solid State playfields are cut different than the E.M. version.
CPR playfields drilled through the playfield for the S.S. pop bumper body bracket...
They should have just put dimple marks on the backside of the playfield.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Yes, the pin activates a switch leaf that scores for the kicker activation. It is possible to thread a pin in there and make it work. I am trying to take the easy road and find an original part. I have one with the pin in the right location however it has a wide "Plastic" head for the kicker and it will not fit through the playfield slot. I am gonna keep my eye out but looks like I will be doing some fabricating to get this part working.
Ebay has one right know... $11.89 ebay.com link: SLINGSHOT KICKER ARM BALLY EM PINBALL MACHINES
Quoted from 4Max:Hi all,
I'm restoring a 1965 Gottlieb Hi-Dolly that has lots of bits removed. Already had to overpay on ebay for a score reel
Next in the back box - the mount, coil, plunger are missing from the bell assembly. I think I have a coil and maybe a plunger, but anyone by chance got the brass bit the coil sits in that attaches to the brass bit I do have?
What I have:
[quoted image]
What it should look like:
[quoted image]
thanks folks!
You can buy a repro from Pinball Resource.
Quoted from 4Max:Well I wanted to adjust the Add Balls Played stepper and this bit of brass broke - anyone got one to hand, would hate to have to buy a complete unit on ebay just for this bit..
[quoted image]
Pinball Resource has them.
Quoted from Murphdom:It’s for a Williams Beat the Clock.
That is a good game... 1st multi-ball type game from the 60's I got to fix many years ago...
At that time, I thought only games in the 70's were multi-ball.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Just wanted to post this again. I'm still looking for A-2858. Thanks
It's for my Safari.
[quoted image]
Did you inquirer over at pinball resource?
Quoted from JONESDS:Have a williams chime unit (Grand Prix) that broke one of the retaining tabs, seems the direction is to replace with a Gottlieb/Bally. If anyone has a Williams or a good alternative replacement, please ping me.
I went through the same problem... I found a really good machinist/metal fabricator
that made new tabs and welded them on to the old bracket.
I was able to save six Williams' chime units from the trash bin.
If you don't mined the hassle, try and seek out a good metal fabricator:
in order to save the unit.
I was hoping Gottlieb cabinets of this 60's-70's generation would be available
as a kit form you can glue together. I'm in the same boat; so to speak.
Quoted from Ballypalooza:I’m looking for the part numbers on a switch for an Aladdins Castle. I just tried to pull up on the PPS Bally 1976 Parts catalog. Can someone tell me why Aladdins Castle is not listed?[quoted image]
What switch are you looking for????
"Can someone tell me why Aladdins Castle is not listed?"
Answer: it did not make the cutoff date... Aladdins Castle
is in the "supplement" package from Bally.
Gottlieb has a compatible part.
pinball resource.
Quoted from SadSack:A friend is looking for this score reel piece from a Chicago Coin Bronco. Don't know anything more, but he sent these pics. Any help greatly appreciated. Don't even know a name or part number or have a manual to start looking. TIA.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from goldenboy232:Looking for a slightly yellowed Gottlieb EM flipper bat that’s in good shape otherwise. Just don’t want bright white. But ideally scratch free if possible
What size ... what game?
Quoted from emspence:Anyone have mushroom bumpers for sale, or attempt to 3d print them? My King Tut is missing both assemblies, just has the switches hanging under the playfield. I was able to order the red moving top from PBR, but they & Marco are out of the bodies. Photo isn't mine, it is from Marco Specialties site. Is the spring they use pretty special or finicky? Never had to take one apart.[quoted image]
Try to get a hold of Rick from Pinball USA in California...
I know he has scraped a Bally Flip Flop... He might be able to help.
Quoted from Pin-up:Hey guys,
I've got 4 Genco Davy Crockett rifle gallery games to restore. I got the first one up and running 100% over the weekend. Waiting on a couple gun stocks for the others to arrive in the mail.
But, 2 of the 4 games are missing the coil that is used to create the gun recoil effect. It has a 05-2312 stock number, and J-501 reference number. It is a 110v coil.
I'm looking to purchase 2 of these to complete the final 2 Davy games. If you have any leads or suggestions please let me know.
Unfortunately, PBR does not have them or anything remotely equivalent.
I have an inquiry out to APB enterprises as well for a possible recreation of one of the 2 good coils that I have, but none of that has been discussed or confirmed yet.
I've come across several coil reference charts online and none of them have any Genco stuff cross referenced, just other manufacturers.
Here's to a good find! Putting all the feelers out on this one.....
You might have to go to a custom coil manufacturer... I am surprised
that PBR did not have one or could not make you one.
Quoted from Idahojerry:Looking for a couple of EM back glasses, both Williams. One is Skylab and the other is Full House.
bgresto has them....
Quoted from JimDinTN:Seeking to identify and locate small Coil Plunger Stop for 1962 Chicago Coin Big Hit P&B. The closest parts book I have is 1969 and there the part number is 130-2516. Not sure if that is correct for 1962. The stop is 3/4" wide x 1" high x 1/2" deep. The screw holes are 3/8" between centers. Thanks for any help[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Try Williams EM parts for coil stop.
Quoted from SteveinTexas:Is that something that you do?
Like to know more how it came out?
I had to have a Gottlieb HH game bottom playfield side walls modified...
The owner of the game payed for the laser cutting company to do the cuts...
I was doing two HHs at the time... so one part was the reference, and
the other was the one that got all the cuts. The owner really wanted
the cobweb plastic assembly added to his sample game; which had non.
You can also use a water jet cutting company...
Quoted from pinhead52:The tricky bit is the head face with the floating exclamation mark
I saw a picture of a metal stencil, which had metal "cabinetry type handles" ( horseshoe shaped )
welded to the floating parts of the stencil.
Quoted from bigdog50:This is a long shot but gotta try --- I have a 1960 Bally Ball Park pitch and bat and need the rubber posts shown in the pic. They go in front of the openings for each type of hit. Probably a one of a kind but hoping someone has these weird posts sitting in a box they don't know what they are for.
They are 1 7/8 inches tall.[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, that is on the custom side....
I fear you are going to have to have a mold made...
Quoted from Peruman:Looking for a chime unit bracket for a 1976 Williams Little Chief. I’ve searched on the web and it does not look like this part is available.
I tried using JB Weld but it wont hold to the pounding of the chime striker.
Is there another way to fix this?
Alberto
[quoted image]
I had a guy cut new tabs and weld them on to the main bracket.
I would say if all else fails... see if you could get blank white flippers and
get the paint color you want and just do a "dip" in the color.
Quoted from bluespin:A friend who isn’t on Pinside is looking for a zipper flipper coil seen in this picture. Or he can use this:
“there was a later replacement coil... Guardian 50 volt coil is usually E-184-277 and/or A420-064506--00”
He said that Steve doesn’t sell them or make them.
[quoted image]
I had a hell of a time trying to find the coil assembly for Bally Nip-It.
It turned out to be a industrial door lock.
It is possible the coil you are looking for could be in the same family.
Quoted from chas10e:Looks like some good info here too http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#zips
@chas10e.
Good info. 
Quoted from SilverLiningMan:Looks like a nice stash for a Seattle area Pinsider:
seattle.craigslist.org link
Ding,ding,ding,ding.
Quoted from meSz:Anyone have one of the armature stops for 0-9 Unit that would be willing to first class mail it to me? I have one that broke.
[quoted image]
Pinball Resource has that part.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Don't think that will work. Heres the one behind the broken one which is the same thing i'm looking for.
[quoted image]
I think Williams em have the kind of "travel dog" you need...
I had a bowler that a guy redid the pin reset motor to, and he made
the motor turn backwards and broke the same kind of "travel dog" you have.
Quoted from Tonup69:Looking for a better looking card wheel for my 1959 Queen of Diamonds - or suggestions on how to make one.
[quoted image]
You too!
I have asked the Pinball Rescue people to make the plastic part, but they do not seem interested...
I feel for you. Yours is better than the one I have... The one I have has turned into, more or less,
a potato chip.
Quoted from jasonp:myrtlebeach.craigslist.org link
Not sure if this has been posted ..... Looks like this guy in California has a building of EM parts for sale.
This guy, has saved me a lot of headaches over the years.
Quoted from AntennaMan:Need shooter rod bushing for Captain Fantastic.
Try: Pinball Resource
BLY-C537-22 $3.56ea
Quoted from AntennaMan:Steve was the first guy I asked, he said they're not available anymore.
Try: Williams ball shooter sleeve and cut it down.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-em-seeking-parts-thread/page/128#post-5667990
You have a Bally Captain Fantastic E.M. 1976 correct ?
If your game is a solid state Home version then the part above would be correct...
But, this is for Electro Mechanical pinballs, not solid state...
If you have a E.M. 1976 Captain Fantastic then,
Part assembly: AS-2378-4
pg.208
Then:
Guide Assy................A-1540-4
Nyliner ( added ).......C-537-22
If Nyliner listed above is N.L.A.
Then use a Williams plunger sleeve and cut down to fit
Part #03-7357
Quoted from AntennaMan:Yes I have an EM. I only randomly grabbed the picture I included, because is illustrates the piece I need, though it's not the exact part I need. It does look very similar and I have taken mine apart and even epoxied it back together, so I know that it looks very similar to the posted pix. The epoxy gave up after 2 or 3 weeks. Placed my order with Steve Young today and brought this part up again. Again he said he, nor any other distributor has them anymore. I asked if there was anything close I could try to shave to fit. No. Anything he could think of to "rig" it to work? Epoxy.
Can you post a picture? Is your game modded?
The ball shooter should be like this:
Bally shooter assembly (resized).png
Quoted from AntennaMan:This is what I have. This is how I got it, no modification on my part, except for the attempted expoxying.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Somebody replaced the OEM ball shooter assembly with a Solid State shooter assembly that came a few years later after Captain Fantastic was in production.
Quoted from AntennaMan:So the one I posted further back from Marco, for illustrative purposes, is the one I have? I thought they looked the same. Is this the best I can hope for or are the correct parts out there?
Try:
ebay.com link: Bally Amigo Pinball Machine Shooter Rod Assembly
Quoted from Murphdom:Looking for a Bally Time Zone Backglass for a friend
Quoted from undrdog:bell clanger striker part needed Williams 1964 Heat Wave
This is on the match unit / one point striker
Is there a common hardware store substitute for this? I've got the main part, just need the washer or whatever it should be that strikes the bell.
[quoted image]
Pinball parts are not exactly off the selves...
Did you try Pinball Resource?
Ask for part B-5492-3
Or if you have a machinist close by...
Have them cut a metal rod/bar stock
and a new shoulder bolt for your part and re-pin the assembly.
Quoted from undrdog:Well, if its just a fixed piece of metal, I can cut and weld that.
The round "washer like" striker is not fixed... it floats on the shoulder bolt...
The shoulder bolt is pined to the step up linkage B-5492-3.
Carefully critique the picture you posted of the assembly and the assembly you have.
Quoted from leckmeck:Actually, that is the right number of rivets. Two are missing in my photo because they were removed. I’ll take it!
Steve Young at Pinball Resource repairs the discs...
Quoted from DropTarget:I may have to cut the heads to get the hinge off, but the screws wouldn't back out of the bar, so I'd still need the bar and new screws.
I don't know why an operator did what he did to this game, He really over did it on trying to keep people from breaking in. It's caused me mucho extra work on the restore. He must have had a lot of problems on his route.
Heat!!!, Heat!!!, Heat!!!. Get the screws HOT!!! Loctite dose not like heat.
Quoted from Tonup69:For some reason the old style Gottlieb pop bumper bodies are out of stock everywhere. Does anyone have four decent ones they could sell me? They don't need to be new, but not cracked or too yellow from smoke.
[quoted image]
Steve Young @ Pinball Resource should have them?
Quoted from DropTarget:Thanks, I considered that. I'm not certain that the missing "spring wire things" (I like saying that) are the same length and shape of the remaining one. Odds are they are though.
Use brass wire...
Quoted from goldenboy232:Weekend bump. I still have two of these with very minor flaws (easily solved with a bit of filler and sanding -- and I'll send you a video so you can see before I ship). Reduced to $40 apiece plus shipping. Already packed them together if someone wants both. PM if interested.
[quoted image]
Can you make the Gottlieb cabinet parts from the 1970's?
Quoted from waltrr:Hey Gang,
Anyone happen to have a yellow 100,000 point domed deco cap to match the old one on the right they can part with?
I did purchase new ones from Steve, on the left, but they just don't cut it for me. Cash or trade, LMK
Thanks!!
[quoted image]
Auto Race! Looks like the mold cuter did not take into consideration that the font is bold.
If all else fails... Some careful Frisket and a blue Sharpy pen could repair the hot stamping.
Quoted from RacingPin:I just picked up a Defender Machine Gun EM gun game by CCM. They use pinball score reels and one has a trace missing on the score reel. The machine is from 1971. I'm looking for this circuit board or the whole score reel with a good circuit board
[quoted image]
Thanks!
Mike V.
Are you sure you are missing a trace?
The wiper contacts contain the information to control the reset circuitry...
There should be gaps in the tracings for replay scores etc,etc,etc,...
Quoted from Iwasthebruce:Hey all, I'm looking for a Bally E-184-239 close flippers coil for my Four Million BC, any leads are appreciated, thanks!
Try Steve Young's Pinball Resource.
Quoted from DropTarget:Williams plastic ball shooter housing?
Are you serious ? That shooter housing breaks constantly...
Maybe a new 3D printed one made with high impact plastic?
Good luck with the find.
Quoted from Raff:I am looking for a spring on a player unit it's a Chicago coin machine.[quoted image][quoted image] and after 2 coils for the pop bumpers 22-550 thanks.
Raff
If you know what game it is, and you have the part number to the spring,
you can try flippers.com in Canada.
They helped me get a spring that did the same thing that you have;
for a Chicago Coin Hi-Flyer.
Quoted from DropTarget:The real issue is that the machine calls for a 6" ring,
Marco has old stock 51/2" ring that you could stretch out.
Note: I had to shop out the same game many years ago...
----- someone add two extra posts to the top area so that it
----- would take three rubber rings, instead of just one.
Quoted from EEE:I’ve been hoarding this little part for a while with the intention of repurposing for our Stern Nine Ball. I’m no longer planning on doing so.
I believe (not certain though) it’s original to a Williams Liberty Bell, Grand Prix and likely others.
Make me an offer.
It’s a red rectangular stand up target.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That is a Bally standup target.
Quoted from Mikec2003:Looking for a score reel part for a wiliams blast off. It looks like a pcb but is part of a switch. Really id buy all 4 score reel mechanisms if the price is right. I will attach a pic of the part I really need
[quoted image]
OUCH! That calls for a CNC cut pcb.
Quoted from pinhead52:I need I need i need... 1 or 2 Williams 4 inch reels. a little too aggressive cleaning.
ken
[quoted image]
Scotch tape and a large tip black sharpy
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Looking for an 8 slot Bally switch actuator. I believe it’s a C-813. The one on mine is broken off in a couple of places. PBR and Marco Specialties are out of stock. Maybe there is a way to repair?[quoted image][quoted image]
Ouch! One of Bally's EM Achilles heel.
Maybe 3D print the part.
Quoted from Grauwulf:Sea_Wolf that seems like a part that could be modeled and 3D printed. Yours really looks like has seen some heat.
I had a Bally EM that had a wrong value, high current coil...
It did the same thing to the actuator.
Sometimes a quick fix causes more damage.
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Don’t think it’s going to work that way. I need 2 good slots in succession and as you can see there are 3 in a row that are burnt/broken and there are 6 switches that go into the actuator. You can also see that some hack glued a couple of piece of metal into the broken slots to close the gap.
It’s a wonder a bigger disaster didn’t happen. I think I can use your actuator. It measures the same in length although the width is different. I think it may work. Sending a pm. Thanks [quoted image]
I was thinking... Maybe you can make a silicone mold and make a resin cast off of a good part.
Or, you can clean the part and use epoxy to fix the damaged areas.
Quoted from insight75:OK. I wouldn't think that I could find those screws that look the same. I think they are nickel plated flathead washer head screws. Will have a look. I have the rubber ring kit. Will have a look at pinball resource for the lane guides. Thanks! I had no idea what to call them!
Pinball Resource might also have the screws you need, sense they are a Gottlieb parts supplier
Quoted from waltrr:Hey gang,
Anyone happen to have any woodrail gate covers, with or without the gate flap they wouldn't mind parting with?
I do know it's a tall order.
Or is anyone printing them?
Thanks!![quoted image]
I was hoping for that part to be reproduced.
Quoted from hoov:Looking for a left side contact kicker (slingshot) bracket and coil plunger GTB pts no's A-2481 & A-1329 for a '51 Gottlieb Niagara woodrail. 2nd pic shows wear on the bracket slot (circled in red).
[quoted image][quoted image]
I would remove the roll-pin... redress the flared surface...
Reassemble with new roll-pin... and add lubricant.
Quoted from Kmstevens:Looking for a Bally EM coin door switch part AS277-135 as listed in 1976 Bally parts Catalog. Part photo shows 268-0200-00 and 7306 printed on the housing. Came from 1973 Bally Circus, but would be surprised it it were game-specific. Connecting wire broke off flush right at the base of the connection so a replacement switch might be a better repair. Would prefer to keep coin operation functional. Checked unual sources online with no luck.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I have soldered a piece of wire from a resistor to the broken part...
then carefully soldered the main wire to the attached wire.
Quoted from BeachPickle:I’m looking for a bottom right sling plastic for a Bally bow and arrow.
I’d be happy to buy it if anyone has one sitting around?
Just picked the game up to restore as a surprise gift for my parents. Thanks!
[quoted image]
I guess it is a common spot to break...
I did a few repairs over the years and they all had the same broken plastic.
Quoted from Murphdom:No I haven’t. According to his website the red spring is a stronger spring and isn’t included but I’ll call anyway. What’s another order? I’ve given him a whole bunch of money already this month
Take the spring to a good hardware store... They sometimes have a spring section...
Quoted from megoman:Williams 1962 World Series
The assembly looks like the reproduction that Pinball Resource did for the Gottlieb chime.
Quoted from jdoz2:I’m needing some Williams coin door parts. Does anyone have any of these wire/plastic parts that closes the switch when a quarter drops? I need 3 of those.
I also need three of these Williams taps that attach to the coin mechs.
Thanks!
[quoted image]
A lot of operators remove those parts to make the game not playable to the public.
There was talk of manufacturing the brass wire actuator/s...
I do not know if the part/s is going to be brought to fruition.
Quoted from RacingPin:I have the switch assemblies. Also have the c-clip for them. All came from the same door but one has a slightly smaller rod on it by design
[quoted image]
Mike V
I believe the smaller wire for is for nickels... "2 nickels for 1 play".
Quoted from codered9394:Im looking for any ramp that was used on em's. Looking to retheme a em and wanting to install a ramp to add another layer to my retheme. Thanks
You Need to go back in time to the 1950's Williams?
Harry Williams did Some odd stuff back in the day.
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:score switch for a pop bumper assembly.
I have had to make that part from Pinball Resource...
( Leaf switch medium thickness, and contact points )
Quoted from Jets_1479:A few more pictures for reference of where it goes.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I would try CDI Torsion Spring 130-905.
If no one has it, give me a DM.
Quoted from insight75:Hi all,
Just picked up a Gottlieb Twin Bill and there are some missing parts..... First is the wooden coin door is missing.....anyone happen to have one kicking around? . If its loaded that would be better since the wires were just cut off (why do people do the things they do!).... Will need some other things but figured I would start here..... Also, anyone have any spare cloth covered wiring so I can do some patching? Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
What a shame! Why,why,why. 
Quoted from insight75:May have gotten lost in my previous post.......anyone have a small pile of old cloth wiring they would be willing to give up?
Can you list all the wire combinations you need?
It might help a pinsider to look at what they have?
1) Approximate length of wire. eg two feet?
2) Diameter of wire. eg heavy gauge awe 18.
3) Color code of wire. eg white with red stripe.
Quoted from PinballAir:This is the spring i have
[quoted image]
If that is the credit unit, then it is the stronger 130-907 spring.
Quoted from PinballAir:It is the credit unit. Couldnt it just be wound less?
I think it is the gauge or length? I know it is to drive a more heave layered
load from the pcb contact plates.
I m working on a Casino and it uses two 130-907 torsion springs...
all other units in the game use the lighter 130-905 torsion spring.
I need to take some of the units apart to compare the springs...
Quoted from MikeO:And you just lightly melt the tit through the hole in the leaf. Very easy. Which also eliminates having to take a motor switch stack apart.
True... I add as a precaution, a small drop of super glue or contact cement to the base of the plastic lifter.
Quoted from goldenboy232:quick touch from a soldering iron?
I would add a small drop of superglue to hold it in place, then heat an old kitchen knife
and press the backside tit. Or if you can just peen the back tit.
Like said above by@PinballAir.
Quoted from goldenboy232:And I'm assuming this is a 3/16" one (not a 1/4" one)? The only reason for my hesitation is it LOOKS like if it had the full "tit", it could extend to 1/4" perhaps.
[quoted image]
Test fit it... use contact cement. If it is, clean the area and use a drop of super glue.
and then coat over the two substrates with contact cement.
Quoted from insight75:Curious since we're on the subject here....how to you replace the contacts?
I have used the tip end of a inline contact connector crimper.
Some people have the very small contact form tool that is a tubular clincher...
Some people just tap the back tit with a hammer.
Quoted from Murphdom:I’m looking for a couple leaf switches for a United shuffle alley. Two of mine in the alley under the rollovers are missing the plastic spacers.
[quoted image]
Quoted from MikeO:I set the new contact face down on an anvil. Then lay the leaf on it with the tit in the proper hole. Then peen it down with a hammer. Done.
The most common contact I find I need to replace is on the leaf that Gottlieb EM pop bumper links actuate. They hold up fine peening them.
Bingo! True, true, true.
Note: Remember, Bally has a very then brass washer as a current suppression to the metal frame.
It is between the relay coil and frame.
Also, the brass hexhead screw that is used to mount the relay itself.
Quoted from insight75:Is there something missing on this plunger? Gottlieb Twin Bill ball release.
[quoted image]
If that is an OEM part then, it had an internal compression spring like the one that is used on a
Bally sounder unit.
If the spring got lost, then an external compression spring was used to fix the unit.
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:I am looking to source one eight pin Jones plug. Anyone know the best place to source (besides the obvious eBay?). I’ve been burnt buying so many parts and items that were misrepresented, I rather avoid it
Do you have the parameters for the part?
1) what game/what location/single sided/double sided, etc.etc.etc.
Quoted from hazmat7719:chart for the rubber on a 1953 Williams Lazy-Q ?
Rubber charts did not come out till late 1960's
The game looks like it takes some 3" rings or maybe 3½"
middle bumpers may be 1" or 1¼".
Mini flippers are 1"
Quoted from ibis:Looking for this actuator and plunger. It is from a Bally On Beam from 1969. Ill buy the whole assembly as long as the two parts are there and in good condition. [quoted image]
OUCH! If all else fails... you might have to use a machinist to have the
actuator stud remanufactured along with the plunger.
Quoted from Electrocute:Drug my Gottlieb “Road Race” out of the closet today and soon realized why I stuffed it in there in the first place. I need the schematic to this game.
Do you have schematics to 1969 Target Pool?... 1plyr.
Do you/can schematics to the 1970 Add-A-Ball Stock Car?...
I have mixed deferent schematics from deferent years to get an approximate on a game
that I do not have paper work for...
Quoted from pinhead52:Does anybody have a Bally shooter sleeve as shown?
[quoted image]
What is wrong with the OEM shooter housing?
Bally AS-2378-4 complete assembly
Bally A-1540-4 new style guide assembly... [ need Nyliner C-537-22 ]
Quoted from pinhead52:Mine is fairly rusty, trying to avoid another trip to the plater.
I would try a buffing wheel first and see what the results are...
Quoted from tfduda:I have a switch for a quarter mech from a late 50s Gottlieb (photo below—the wire on this one was mangled, but I think I got it back to reasonable shape), but the one I have for a nickel mech has a broken wire. Does someone have a spare nickel mech switch or at least the measurement of the wire on a nickel mech switch so that I could bend a new one. I assume that the wire on the nickel mech switch is just a bit longer than the quarter one given the smaller diameter of the nickel, but otherwise haven’t seen any photos of comparison. Thanks for any help!
[quoted image]
Which game?/year?
Quoted from tfduda:I have a switch for a quarter mech from a late 50s Gottlieb (photo below—the wire on this one was mangled, but I think I got it back to reasonable shape), but the one I have for a nickel mech has a broken wire. Does someone have a spare nickel mech switch or at least the measurement of the wire on a nickel mech switch so that I could bend a new one. I assume that the wire on the nickel mech switch is just a bit longer than the quarter one given the smaller diameter of the nickel, but otherwise haven’t seen any photos of comparison. Thanks for any help!
[quoted image]
I would put an APD for the left, hinge side, coin chute wire...
now the I see the style of coin door.
Quoted from jasonspoint28:I’m looking for a pair of pop bumper ring and shafts for a 1977 Gottlieb. Part A-16634, which is apparently longer than its predecessor A-1316?? Looks like PBR and Marco are out of stock, but A4754 is the replacement. Does anyone know if the A4754 is the same length?
If you have a pair of A-16634 in good shape, I’d be interested. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I used #6 washers to shim the R&R to the longer A-16634.
Maybe someone can make a thick washer that is the thickness of the metal base
as a shim. Better still, is to get the OEM part refabricated.
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:I’m looking for a Bally credit reel, for old Chicago. The stepper looks to be salvageable, but somebody bent the heck out of the reel.
Also looking for Bally 3” score reels (just the plastic) with the numbers in good shape.
Thanks,
Dave
"Bally credit reel, for old Chicago".
E-Bay has one. from Freedom.... and score drum unit set.
Quoted from pinhead52:got some
Dang, pinhead52 does it again!
It is nice to have someone that can scrap a pinball and see a useless part
and think "yea maybe someday; someone would need this part".
Quoted from Billc479:I'm not pushing one way or another on this, but here's a CL ad for EM parts. I don't know if he's on Pinside or not.
albuquerque.craigslist.org link
He has helped me many times with odd NLA parts and assemblies.
Quoted from Tomass:Any chance someone has a "hit unit" from a Grand Slam? My rivets heads are worn down to where seems to affrect my scoring now. Some are worn almost completely out. Not sure if this part was used on other games or not.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Pinball Resource has/had a biscuit contact service.
1) clean the surface and use contact grease.
2) if still a problem, contact PR for contact service.
Note: had it done many years ago... saved a Gottlieb Hi-Diver.
Quoted from Pinballgeek:On the hunt for another lockdown bar for my gottlieb surfside since one of the sharkfins is missing
[quoted image][quoted image]
Bought a replacement thinking it was the right one blind however when removing from coindoor its the wrong one so if anyone is interested I’m willing to sell it
[quoted image]
Assembly #D-7446
Looks like missing:
Right corner trim A-6026
http://www.pbresource.com/signatur/gtb-a6026-7at.jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
Note: Pinball Resource list bar is only used on games up to Dancing Lady...1966
------ Surf Side is 1967. Lockdown bar #D-10054 revised design.
Quoted from DJ1953:Wow that would be great i am defiantly interested. How do we get in touch? I am new to posting
Check the picture avatar... You have four options.
One is PM, Private Messaging.
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:I’m looking for the reset arm bushings for the drop target bank on Old Chicago.
Per Steve Young, these are no longer available at PBR.
If anybody has tips on getting around the worn out slots, I’m all ears. Maybe it will be JB Weld to the rescue
Thanks,
Dave
Can you take a picture of what you are inquiring about?
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:The round item #6 on this drawing. It’s got 2 set screws and a flat grove machined in it for the arms to go through.
Bally part number S-1969.
[quoted image]
Is your part missing? are just warn out?
I redress the tips of the part to fit the long flat levers better.
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:They are worn out. There’s a lot of slop between the arm (#5) and the bushing (#6) so that a lot of the plunger stroke gets used up before the corresponding arm at the other end rotates and moves the reset bar. This results in the end target usually staying down after a reset cycle.
O.K. I always re-strike the #6 bushing to clinch the #5 arm
You need to get a set of striking punches...
Also, the 5 bank reset lever needs to be on an off angle to reset correctly...
There is a "sweet spot" with the slit twist to the bushing to rod setup.
The short stud on the #5 arm can also be spot welded...
I was wanting to make a set of replacement parts to these old drop target banks.
You can also add a dab of GB weld to help glue the assembly together.
I feel your pain.
Quoted from pinhead52:I need a bottom board to a King of Diamonds
Inside guts or Bottom cabinet or both?
Quoted from swampwiz:I am looking for a few #3 hex nuts. The specific location is the small switch on a 70s Gottlieb score reel (there are 2 switch assemblies - the one I am looking for pertains to the smaller of them). Of course, they could be elsewhere on a Gottlieb, or any other. The diameter of the mating screw is 0.094" (3/32").
This picture shows it below the red arrow (in the photo, the switch is rotated 90 degrees):
https://homepinballrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/2018-07-23-10.48.12-1.jpg
I have found the nuts at the hardware store... Only in the Stainlees steel section.
Size 3-48th
Quoted from Bublehead:Anyone know of a place where you can get the two piece metal Gottlieb posts from Central Park / Cross Town, mid to late 60's vintage? Either used or new?
There are two sizes:
regular and tall.
Try this:
http://www.pbresource.com/signatur/gtb-d1008t.jpg
GTB-D1008
This lockdown bar was generally used on:
~1954 ~ 1960 Games
http://www.pbresource.com/lockdb.html
Quoted from pinhead52:Here's a long shot... need the circuit board that drives the rotating lamps for the motorcycle jumping the busses on Evel Knievel EM. Yes sorry to say there is a digital section to to this classic rare Electomechanical game.
May have to break down and fabricate one.
Ken
How can that PCB be missing? I know it is mounted in the back box.
It only goes to that one game?
Quoted from MikeO:Do you have a schematic of the board?
I don't think there is one... Maybe an engineers drawing...
I think the board used simple Quad "D" flip flops...
I believe it uses the +6 volt AC from the lamps and re-regulated to +5 volts DC.
Quoted from KCMike:I was looking into my Rocket III and noticed what appears to be a 'heat sink' modification on the Anti-Cheat relay. Of course I had to do further investigation!
[quoted image]
Using my Flir IR camera I discovered that one of the switches in the relay was getting up to 400 degrees! The 'heat sink' was clearly not doing anything...
Assuming a poor switch connection as a cause for the heat, I started looking deeper and discovered some toasty parts. Does anyone know where I could find a donor Anti Cheat relay assembly? I checked the PBR ones listed but the stamped numbers are not aligning to what I have here. (unless there is a cross reference available?) Additionally, in the parts manual its listed as a Z-1116 frame with a 3312 coil.
Any help is appreciated.
[quoted image]
OUCH!
Quoted from John_I:Looks like I was able to create a decent copy of the 100K light baffle in CAD. I need one for a Fire Queen to replace one that is completely melted down. You can see in the pictures the one out of my Centigrade 37 is also looking a little toasty, although it still works
Anyway, the first prototype print came out pretty nice. PETG prints a little rougher, but it also is more heat resistant than the normal plastic. Just need to make a few tweaks to the design and I should be able to print out the final version by tomorrow.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Fantastic!
Quoted from Geofflove:I need the centre plastic for a spirit of 76/pioneer/New York. The one by the kick out hole. Anyone got one I can buy? Thanks.
That plastic part is always broken....
PBR should have an "easy break" lineup of plastics for this problem.
Quoted from Knxwledge:Couple questions regarding a Bally Air Aces slingshot assembly. The plastic part on one of the slingshot assemblies is broken, and I think it might be causing the switch to short out and constantly pull the coil in. What is a suitable replacement? Circled in red
[quoted image]
Also, I would like to replace the plunger and links on both because the links are pretty blown out.
Just replacing the link would be suitable, would this fit? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8085
Edit: added more accurate photo, removed link to part which doesnt fit my machine
The plastic sleeve is the same as the cabinet switch stack on a Bally or Williams game...
1) repin the flared tip to take the sleeve
2) carefully reflare the tip once the plastic sleeve is in place.
-----------------------------------
If you needs links, give me a PM.
Switch stacks use #5 screws in deferent lengths...
I sometimes put a screw in the stack and hold the complete assembly
against the side of the playfield to double check if it is too long or not.
Quoted from el-comico:I thought of aftermarket ones...i knew they existed...but this particular machine upon closer inspection has a wiring harness that is exactly tailor-made for this setup(one Jones plug only,not two and nothing to indicate anything cut or reworked)..a digital scoreboard/circuitboard and a separate circuitboard that runs to a mounted speaker in the backbox which clearly is a soundboard(usually these will have chimes,bell and/or knocker in cabinet)...now,none of Neptune/HitThe Deck/Poseidon or any other variation exists like that in any pics i've seen..and i've searched an awful lot on other machines particularly late EM Gottliebs but nothing like this...part EM/part SS ?...Prototype ?...I'll get pics up for it when i figure out my camera...then maybe someone might have come across this at one time somewhere...my only guess is that it was the absolute last EM made before phasing out totally to SS...maybe some bright engineer at the company came up with this design and it was a one-off..Neptune was one of the last anyway but was all EM(the red on black mechanical reels that were supposed to look "digital"or usual black on white the Italians must have used)...this one,though,is truly digital.
N.B...The sites have TKO as the last EM for Gottlieb..but that clearly shows pics that is all EM and no funny digital circuitboards...or was there some other one after TKO that was the last?
It might have been a pull from the assembly line for a "proof of concept".
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:I’d like to find one of these as well. I tried to get the spring from PBR to see of that is the issue with the ball launch on our el dorado and was told it’s no longer available.
Thanks,
Dave
This is bad on Pinball Resources side... they are to be exclusive Gottlieb suppliers...
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Looking for this plastic for a Stern Stampede (or Rawhide) as well as one of the standup targets.
[quoted image]
OUCH!
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:Anyone got a Bally Chime sound box from a parted out unit? This is the resonator plastic box part #C-881. Mine is missing. TIA Ken
One sold on E-bay... a few days ago.
Quoted from Alan_L:Here are my coin slot covers after a trip to my local metal shop this afternoon.
Do they look perfect? No. Do they look a heck of a lot better and am I happy with them? Absolutely!
[quoted image]
Do a before/after setup. 
Quoted from Shawn1976:That’s a stock photo I found on the web due to not having one.
Do you have a schematic for the boards circuitry?
Quoted from Jets_1479:Looking for this part. It’s part of the manual ball lifter apparatus, the channel the ball follows up and is attached to the inside of the cabinet. It’s just a piece of formed sheet metal. Mines clearly stress fractured to hell and back.
[quoted image]
I was hoping Steve at Pinball Resource would replicate that part.
Might have to take the part to a good metal brazing service to repair.
Quoted from John_I:I've promised to scan my Dodge City dancing cowboy and post it a while back. Here are the files at 300dpi if anyone wants to reproduce them!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
How thick is the chipboard background?
& how thick is the metal & plastic of the dancing cowman?
Thanks for posting the artwork.
Quoted from No_Skill:I'm looking for the top playfield glass bracket for my Old Chicago. I'm not finding them on the usual websites. Anyone have a source? Mine is pretty rough.
[quoted image]
If all resources fail, you may have to have the part re-plated.
Quoted from No_Skill:I'm looking for the back panel for my Old Chicago. This is my first EM, so I'm not sure if I'm missing any associated brackets as well.
[quoted image]
1) Back Door P-630-10
2) Back Door Bracket P-6229-98
-- 2a; Hardware
Quoted from No_Skill:Do you have a source?
Sadly you need to find someone in your area to reproduce the parts...
One guy was selling the Bally back door... P-630-10
Maybe a pinsider has the parts...
I used a machine shop to reproduce a back door a few years ago...
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:I could use 1 of this type of ball gate that goes on the shooter lane of Aladdin’s Castle and on the right upper return lane on Wizard! If anyone has an extra.
It measures right at 3 1/4” long and I don’t need the screws. I figured PBR and Marco would have them but Marco didn’t last time I checked and I can’t find it on the PBR website and am trying to avoid a phone call lecture. Thanks.[quoted image]
#ASE-2250-24 Ball Gate & Wire.
consisting of:
--- Bracket P-5867-12
---Wire M-1272-17
As used on the following games...
1) Fireball
2)El Toro
3)Monte Carlo
4)Odds & Evens
5)Nip-It
6)Amigo
7) Knockout
8) Wizard
9) Freedom
10) Evel Knievel
11) Supersonic
12) Dolly Parton
13) Future Spa
14) Nitro Ground Shaker
15) Silver Ball Mania
16) Mystic
17) Skateball
18) Frontier
19) Embryon
20) Medusa
21) Elektra
22) Vector
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Thanks for that vec-tor. Are those bracket and wire numbers from PBR?
That’s exactly what I need it for, my Nitro Ground Shaker. I swapped it to put on my Wizard! because it came without one.
Bally Master Parts Manual...
I listed all the contemporary games that uses that gate assembly part, in case someone has
parted out a game I listed, and would have the correct part for you...
Quoted from tomdrum:If anyone needs Gottlieb baseball or football lettered flipper bats I just listed sets in the marketplace.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/120265
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/120266
Those flippers are very nice!
Quoted from chad:I'm in need of this bracket found on the Free Play unit of Gottlieb games such as Skill Pool and World Beauties...
Thanks in advance.[quoted image][quoted image]
Do you need the whole bracket or just the stop?
Quoted from mark532011:does anyone have a source for the tiny bolts that hold the switch stacks together on the relays. They are smaller than a #6-32 but a search for something like #4-40 is just a guess. I have a Ice Revue and I have managed to lose one while cleaning the relays. I figured I better get a supply of different sized ones for different amounts of switches stacked together
would something like this work?
amazon.com link »
Relay hardware is 5-40th for big switch stacks & I think 3-48th ? for the smaller...
Quoted from chad:Bracket with stop. Thank you!
O.K. I had the stops reproduced, no bracket.
Quoted from Stevie-D:MH@pinsiders pics of the Buckaroo tens score tell ratchet piece I need. Thanks [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hub spindle ratchet is broken. 
Quoted from pinhead52:looks like you could use a new reel as well... something got toasty
The dreaded domino effect.
One little part breaks and causes so much damage.
Quoted from pinhead52:He wants an older one or its not going to match
If anything, maybe replace as a set.
Quoted from PinballAir:Flippers.com Johns jukes sells that assembly for $34
I have purchased it for SM and it works great.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Looking for part #A-7563-1 (could also be #A-7563)
Match Unit Armature Arm.
This is for my Williams Grand Prix
Here are a couple pictures
TIA[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from PinballAir:How about planetary pinball aka bay area amusements?
8$
[quoted image]
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/EM-A-7563L.jpg
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=EM-A-7563
Quoted from Silverstreak02:I need the spring or the assembly that the flipper buttons operate to make the switch. My springs are toast for both sides. The left and right assemblies will also work. This is for a 1959 Gottlieb Around the World pin.[quoted image][quoted image]
OUCH!
Quoted from onefunbug:Hello, does anyone have a Bow and Arrow that can send me a pic of the belly mech board so I can relabel the relays. thanks
Here is what I could find... it is a start on your project
pasted_image (resized).png
onefunbug
14 Bank
( mounting Board )
As used in Hi-Deal
-----------------------
[ front strip ][ front to back ]
2ND COIN SETUP
COIN
2ND COIN CHUTE
3RD COIN CHUTE
CREDIT
LOCK
RESET
[ end of strip ]
[ front strip ][continued ]
DELAY
OUTHOLE
BALL INDEX
TILT
EXTRA BALL
OUT BONUS SCORE
3000
[ end of strip ]
{from Bally parts book}
onefunbug
5 Bank
( mounting Board )
As used in Hi-Deal
-----------------------
[ left back strip ][ back to front ]
500 POINT
BONUS HOLE SCORE
5000 BONUS HOLE
PLAYER RESET
TOP HOLE AND CENTER TARGET
[ end of strip ]
{from Bally parts book}
I do not know if this is correct...
regards.
Quoted from Coyote:Hey guys -
Could use some Williams 70-80's coin door parts.
Had a shell and then another one that was missing some items or had some that were mangled.
Anyone have any of the following laying around, let me know!
- Lockout wire for Dimes, Quarter and Nickles (12A-6398)
- Coin Return flap (1A-3508)
- Metal Coin Bezel for Nickles (1A-4215-1) (don't care what coin it is for, as long as a nickle fits through it, heh. The Quarter one is too narrow!)
- Coin switch trigger wire/spring & the plastic .. uh, disk thing that the spring mounts in and activates the coin switch.
Everything else I need I an get from online vendors, for sure.
Appreciated, and will have some extra parts to offer to folks once I get to reassembling the door.
Coyote inquire
BobLangelius
Has made some Williams coin door parts. System 3 --- system 7
Quoted from nomo:Looking for a plastic set for a Williams Olympic Hockey. Message me if you have anything, all or part. I could use a back glass too.
[quoted image]
Looks nice!
Quoted from nkowalskiw:Looking for these two limit brackets for a Gottlieb Scuba on the player unit. Anyone got a junk player unit they don't need?
[quoted image][quoted image]
That unit was not adjusted correctly.
I would check/replace the coil stop to the unit also.
Quoted from Murphdom:Anyone have any woodrail leg bolts? I could use a set. Good Ol’ Steve doesn’t have them. Thanks.
Could you share a picture of what it the leg bolt looks like?
How are the leg bolts different from the metal leg bolts?
I'm not familiar with wood rail wood leg bolts.
Standard woodrail leg bolts 3/8 x 16 x 3 3/8 with the acorn head.
" 3/8 x 16 x 3 3/8"
3/8" shaft width?
16"? head size?
3 3/8" length.
16"? head size? 9/16" or 5/8" acorn head size?
Quoted from Billc479:3/8th inch shaft
3 3/8th inches long
16 is the number of threads per inch
Not sure on head size
O.K. got it.
3/8-16 thread cut size.
3 3/8" long.
The acron head size looks like 9/16"
Second thought:
Williams , Gottlieb favor 5/8" acorn head
Classic Bally, Classic Stern favor 9/16" acorn head
I do not know about Genco, United, etc.
Quoted from dasvis:Pretty sure classic Stern leg bolts are just a plain bolt with no head markings.
True.
Quoted from Billc479:I asked the question in the Woodrails thread - the answer was 5/8 head.
What game is the leg bolts for? If I don't mind to ask.
Quoted from wayner:Has anyone had success in locating #18 x 32mm finishing nails (PBR recomm) as distinct from brad nails to replace worn contact pins in very early GTB bumper skirts?
[quoted image]
Have you tried stiff piano wire?
Quoted from Murphdom:I’m looking for a Williams coin entry plate blank if anyone has one. I thought I had a spare but I think I gave it away several months back.
[quoted image]
I have a decal made with the "W" emblem.
Quoted from John_in_NC:Well damn who let that clown in? Anyone have a decent used drop for Fast/Quick draw? I don’t want to mix a new one in.
Thanks!!
[quoted image]
You know, if you add a duck, a cat, or even a rabbit, you would have a
carnival shooting gallery pinball. 
Quoted from Peruman:Looking for a replacement outhole switch for a Bally Hokus Pokus. The one on the photo has a broken tab and what remains is too short to solder to.
Tried PBR and they did not have that switch.
Thanks,
Alberto
[quoted image]
If you have a scrap switch... You can pull apart the components...
1) break down the leaf switch.
2) remove the upper part of the scrap switch.
3) sandwich the new lower part with solder lug into the OEM switch.
4) reassembly switch and resolder wires...
I have had to do this type of repair to many odd switches.
Quoted from Trizel:Can only tell me which type this is or how to identify this score reel bayonet bulb socket. [quoted image]
Who is the manufacture?
Quoted from Trizel:Can only tell me which type this is or how to identify this score reel bayonet bulb socket. [quoted image]
From Williams parts catalog:
1) 24A-6590 Insert Lite Socket ( Drum Unit )
Quoted from pinball2020:Looking for clarification on size of this white UP POST button. I am looking to buy a replacement since it appears that it broke off. What size is this?
Rollover button for Aces & Kings pinball - upper part of the playing field.
Thanks in advance![quoted image]
Williams
Rollover Button Assemblies
pg.43 1977-1978 parts manual
A-7385 or A-7903
Button head 3A-7263 specify color.
Quoted from pinball2020:Question: How do I take off the washer/lock - whatever it is called and put it on the new plastic button or order new ones? If so, where do I order them from?
I carefully work the press lock washer off the old piece with a small needle nose pliers.
If you are not saving the plastic stem, then you can carefully cut the plastic.
Quoted from DropTarget:Hi all,
Can any one spare 3 spoon leaf switch blades? PBR sells the entire pop bumper switch stack, but I just need the spoon blades, and prefer to keep my machines as original as possible.
Thanks,
Happy New Year all.
What game manufacture?
Quoted from DropTarget:I guess that might help. Gottlieb KoD.
So basically you need a:
----- Gottlieb ------
B-8546 Bumper Switch Blade with Point.
or
A-16637 Bumper Switch Blade with Point.
Quoted from DropTarget:Some vendors have them listed as either A-8546 or B- 8546
The parts book as it listed as both numbers... it depends on the pg. you are on.
Quoted from slghokie:Looking for Bally Knockout head parts/score reels
[quoted image]
OUCH!
Quoted from phlamingo:Hi everyone! I am looking for a green diamond bumper cover for a 1948 United Star Dust. Photo is of the upper-left one, I'm missing the lower-left. I'd even be happy with one of any color. [quoted image]
DANG! That is old school... I miss the classic designs.
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Looking for a Bally ball gate with wire if possible that measure right at 3 1/4” from end to end and 3” screw hole to screw hole.
They are on 3 of my games, Wizard!, Aladdin’s Castle and Nitro Ground Shaker but the Wizard didn’t come with one and I never see the right one on eBay. Thanks.[quoted image]
Part No. AS-2250-24
Gate used on many Bally games.
Fireball, Monte Carlo, Odds & Evens, Nip-It, Amigo, etc.
Quoted from FlipperFix:Looking for some Genco coils.
J-121
J-221
Any and all help appreciated. Pictures for reference.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Did you try Steve Young's Pinball Resource?
Quoted from kingpinman:Anyone have a space odyssey or space mission complete knocker assembly and chime unit parts. They want to sell.
Thank you
[quoted image]
The knocker assembly is common to all classic Williams games, outside of the coil value.
Firepower, etc... I think up too 1984?
Quoted from jdjdt1:Looking for the rubber grommets used on relay banks as well as score motor brackets on Chicago Coin EMs. Tried both PBR and Marco with no luck. Any suggestions would be great.
Do you have pix? Ref. game?
Quoted from jdjdt1:Its a Chicago Coin Criss Cross Pop Up from mid 60s. pics attached. Been looking on line but most seem to be for cords going thru boxes so not sure they are thick enough. Suspect a trip to lowes won't hurt.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That is a custom vibration grommet.
1) measure the ID of metal bracket... measure the height.
1a) I assume the eye lit is part of the assembly...
2) once you have all the parameters Dia, size etc.
2a) check McMaster-Carr for vibration grommets or other industrial hardware suppliers.
3) get the closes size.. you may have to grind away materials to make part fit.
Quoted from novaguy:Hey all.looking for a red ball rebound cover and the metal piece that comes with it for a 1953 Gottlieb Grand Slam.
Is this what you need?
Pinball Resource:
http://www.pbresource.com/signatur/gtb-147.jpg
Red Ball Rebound Cover
GTB-147 $15.00ea
Quoted from novaguy:Ya I saw that but it has no metal piece.
Under the plastic is a metal bracket and a blue tempered spring steel flap.
You might have to go with a more contemporary design.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Looking for 1 or 2 for a spare but especially 1 of these nylon couplers for a Midway Duck Hunt shooter game. This is the nylon coupler that connects the motor shaft to the shaft that drives the score reels. One of broke and I cannot find any of these for sale anywhere.
[quoted image][quoted image]
swinks 3D printed that part.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/J2ECQUANV/arcade-shooter-score-reel-coupling-adaptor?optionId=61957491&li=marketplace
Quoted from BleacherBum:Does anyone know what size of screw is used to attach a coin switch and switch cover to a Bally 1972 pin?
Thanks,
Phil
Bally had two styles of coin doors... early wood base...
new metal base...
for new style Fireball and later games.
item #28 Screw MS-540-12-110= 5/40th machine screw.
item #30 screw LS-540-3-110 = 5/40th machine screw with external tooth lock washer.
Quoted from jsf24:He is not looking for the rollovers, he's looking for the inserts "housings".
[quoted image][quoted image]
Might have to use a good machinist to fabricate the base insert housing.
Quoted from Jets_1479:I need the housing they sit do side of, it’s an insert. PBR doesn’t have them they confirmed this to me.
[quoted image]
What game is it?
Quoted from Jets_1479:Cassanova
O.K., that is a really neat game.
Congratulations.
Quoted from bonzo71:My Spirit of 76 has a busted drop target bank part. Its is the light metal bar that drops after the last target drops. It is broken on one end and the result is that the switches close when 3 targets drop instead of 4. Will buy a whole bank of 4.
Series Bar
Part # A-14533 [4bank]
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:Saw a facebook ad where someone was selling loads of EM specific parts for $500.
Located in Mustang, OK
https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/704048184051176
[quoted image]
From Robocop "I'll by that for a dollar"
I love the collection of the Williams 6/7 digit display double adhesive mounting foam
'cut out silver dollars' leftover pieces from the main adhesive rectangles.
A-4584 coil stop bracket is designed for 110ac voltage
A-4583 coil stop bracket is designed for 28 volts ac.
Quoted from iluvak9:Looking for a lock mechanism (lock and key) for my Spanish Eyes backbox metal door, but I am not sure as to the right type/size of lock to get for this setup. I have a small inventory of locks and none of them work with the door and hinge for my Spanish Eyes (see pics of the metal door and backbox hinge) so I was wondering what the right type/size/dimensions to order for this lock as I would like to buy one. Also, if anyone has one they would like to sell is the right lock and key, I would be interested.
Can someone please tell me what/type/size I should order to work with this metal door, hinge combo for the Spanish Eyes? Thanks, in advance, for any help.[quoted image][quoted image]
The lock would work counter clock-wise [ right to center ] Going by the slant of the backbox angle bracket.
Quoted from Gotemwill:Still looking for this Chicago Coin coil.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-chicago-coin-2886-coil
[quoted image]
You might have to have it made.
Did Steve Young's Pinball Resource have something to replace the coil.
Quoted from KJIa:Not sure if these are correct but I have 5 of these legs.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Take a picture of the underside.. what do the bottom feet look like?
Quoted from newmantjn:Per Steve's chart, Gottlieb never used ribbed legs.
http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html
Late model Premiere/Gottlieb used ribbed legs
Quoted from NYP:Is that a complete definitive list of all legs? The reason I thought they were gottliebs is the bolt holes on gottliebs are drilled slightly smaller/tighter than Bally/Williams. And they’re more straight. But maybe they’re for something else, don’t know.
Note: Bally 1960'--1970's Fireball style cabinet used 28" style legs.
------ The legs look exactly like 28½" legs but, the bottom is just ½" short.
------ 28" leg part #P-4052-5
------28½" leg part #P4052-8
Quoted from Geofflove:A bit of a long shot but does anyone (ideally in the uk) have a 6 stack switch actuator for a Bally tilt relay? I just the plastic part (c 812-6). It from a Nip It tilt relay.
I would inquire the 3D print community or swinks for a reproduction.
Quoted from smohr:Hi Everyone,
Im (actually a friend) trying to repair some burned out circuit tracing on this 00-90 Unit board for a 1977 Stern Stampede. But I thought I would put a feeler out for a replacement if we dont have success. The part# is 468-2526. See pics for the burned out area thats trying to be repaired.
Thanks
Steve
[quoted image][quoted image]
OUCH!
Maybe a cnc pcb cutter could reproduce the contact plate.
Quoted from A_Bord:ISO a high resolution scan of a Surf Champ backglass (both sides). Can be in pieces as long as the scans aren't resized before sending.
The only thing left of my current backglass are tiny pieces still sitting in the cab...
Did you try bgresto?
kingpin
2.United's 5th inning
A) Puck holder/ puck return catch.
Did you try something like this?
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/protective-coatings/loctite_sf_f720.html
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:Curious to see if anyone has any spare bakelite flipper links (or in good shape flipper links without being worn) for a Gottlieb Grand Slam (1953). I've been trying to rebuild the flipper assemblies on it, but it has been a bit of a pain trying to get the right drill holes in the bakelite piece along with using the right kind of screw as an EOS actuator.
The OEM parts are metal.
1) A-1978 Flipper Link 2-1/4" hole center to hole center.
2) A-858 Flipper lever arm.
3) A-647 Stud Insulator 3/4"
4) A-272 Arm Plunger
5) Misc. Roll Pin / Brass washers / large washer.
6) A-1081 Large hairpin fastener.
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:I have a picture of the linkage part on the right of the image that I need for my Grand Slam (1953). Basically I'm looking for 2 spare parts that aren't worn, or if someone even has already made bakelite versions of this part that's fine too.
It's the last missing piece I need to rebuild the flippers, and I've been procrastinating on it because of how annoying it is to make the part.
[quoted image]
These are the part numbers from the 1953 parts catalog that Steve Young
reprinted back in 1982.
Gottlieb Parts Catalog Volume D.
1) A-1978 Flipper Link 2-1/4" hole center to hole center.
2) A-858 Flipper lever arm.
3) A-647 Stud Insulator 3/4"
4) A-272 Arm Plunger
5) Misc. Roll Pin / Brass washers / large washer.
6) A-1081 Large hairpin fastener.
Question: What is wrong with the linkage [part #A-1978]?
--------- has the roll pin flared the metal out?
Quoted from megoman:I’m in need of a drop target plunger for an Allied Leisure Dynomite.
Allied decided to develop their own parts instead of using common parts from the big 3.
The plunger in question is very unit with a plastic top portion that uses a tiny metal pin to area has to target.
Anyone have one of these? Please PM me.
Thanks!
[quoted image]
Some pinsider 3D printed the part. Look into the cocktail pinball club.
Quoted from ChipS:Any guess on what the heck the discoloration is? I don't even know what to call it.[quoted image][quoted image]
It's oxidized rust permeating through the thin zinc plating.
Quoted from ChipS:I've had a couple people tell me it's nickel plated. And when I cleaned my Abra Ca Dabra large arch with Simple Green, it took some of that plating off. The area without the plating was very rough, not smooth like the plated area. Then, when I soaked it in Evapo-Rust, the area turned black. (2nd photo)
So that's what I'm trying to avoid.
That being said, someone on another thread suggested sanding off the nickel or zinc plating and then polishing with Mothers Mag. So I may try that. Or may throw it in the tumbler and see what happens, knowing I can sand it and polish it. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/el-dorado-upper-arch-cleaning-suggestions#post-7072936[quoted image][quoted image]
Gottlieb or the contractor for the plating, was very stingy... but then again, the stuff was only to be
around for only a year or two and that was it... never forty,fifty,sixty years...
Quoted from Playdium:Looking for the proper part number for the 1 1/4" tall standing lamp sockets for under the playfield. I don't see those at PBR and would like to use all new ones for a playfield swap. The 1978 catalog only gives part numbers and not sizes.
#2916 insert lamp socket
#6413 rollover button style lamp socket
#2913 laydown style lamp socket
#16002 eject style lamp socket
#2914, #2915, #3561, #4762 variation of GI style lamp sockets
Quoted from JethroP:Looking for a few wiper fingers: Part#A-306. 0.023" thick
PBR is out of stock.
Marcos is out of stock.
[quoted image]
Like everyone else, looks like you are going to have to have the parts made.
Laser cutting and raw metal material... If you can have cad files made of the
part, you can shop around to see if someone can give you a break on the costs.
Quoted from RacingPin:Or just buy them used. I have these parts. Have more wipers .. not sure exactly the ones you need
[quoted image]
Mike V
Quoted from ChipS:Does anyone know the part number for this small plastic piece from Atlantis (circled in red)? There are five of them and they support the clear plastic piece that is below the top right plastic at the top of the bagatelle lane. I'm replacing all my posts and tried to order it from PBR. I described the part to Steve, but he said it was GTB A14487 & A14488. I explained to him that that is the two-piece part that goes on El Dorado and Abra Ca Dabra, but is not the same as the piece on Atlantis. He said he had no idea what I was talking about or what the part would be.
I was wondering if a previous owner of my Atlantic had substituted that plastic part, but every example of the game I've seen online seems to have the same part as my machine. And I'm certain it is not GTB A14487 or A14488. Any ideas?
[quoted image][quoted image]
It is possible the Gottlieb ran out of the double nylon post or one part of the two part post setup.
Thus, the factory assembly line had to improvise.
Quoted from psd4me:Need a Williams back door lock bracket.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
OUCH!
Quoted from BubbaK:Bally replacement credit unit.
Quoted from BubbaK:I'm using it on a Captain Fantastic.
Note: The credit unit has a weighted plunger.
Complete Assembly Unit Part #AS-797-383
Quoted from EJS:I hardly ever check my SPAM inbox but tonight I did for whatever reason.
I saw an e mail from Jimmy saying GTB pop bumper bodies are back in stock.
GTB-25W
Quoted from mojonitro:I'm looking for the Brake plate for a Flash Motor Unit on a 1972 Fireball . It's the plate that mounts behind a coil, and when the coil releases, the bent tab on the top of the plate engages the sprocket on the Flash Unit and stops it. You can see the tab is worn away where it engages with the sprocket, so it drifts to a stop. I checked PBR, and they don't list it. If there's a repair for this, short of welding, I'm all ears!
Jim
[quoted image]
I have had to have that part spot brazed/welded... Rebuilt the unit and used a lot of new lube
for the teeth gear. One needs to adjust the stop flap so as to just stop the unit teeth.
Quoted from Jets_1479:Still looking for a Bally flipper button. Need one. Will buy a pair if required just need it please… 1.5” total length.
[quoted image]
I had a machinist make me one several years ago.
Quoted from mrm_4:Anyone have an extra or know where to find one of the rods that hood the chime bars down on a Williams chime unit?
I really don’t want to make one out of a coat hanger.
[quoted image]
See if K&S metals has brass/copper rods.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:Mine is cracked in half and I'm missing the other piece.
That mishap is caused by opening the back wood frame...
The wiper would get crushed by the metal "U" bracket..
If you are going to open the back wood frame, make sure the
wiper assembly is horizontal... NOT vertical.
Quoted from fixintoplay:Thought I'd try this thread to see if anyone knows a source for a set of cabinet stencils for a Gottlieb Road Race/Stock Car. Jeff at Pinball Pimp doesn't list them on his website. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
????????????????????????????
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Probably a longshot but I’m looking for a Bally ball gate and wire for my Wizard!
Lots of other ball gates available on Marco website but all too small in length. I can measure again when I get home from work but it’s opening is close to 3”, maybe 2.75” and over 3” from screw to screw. Thanks.[quoted image]
Bally part #AS-2250-24
As used on the following EM games:
Fireball, El Toro, Monty Carlo, Odds & Evens, Nip-it, Amigo, Knockout, Wizard.
Quoted from durriti:Sometime the coin return chute has a flap that hangs blanking plate brackets, it covers most of the coin return semi circle hole in the front but over the years only two gottliebs out two dozen had the flap. The part isn't listed in the gottlieb in the 1966 or '68 catalogues.
The old baffle plate door.
Quoted from c818919taylor:Looking for the plunger, linkage & clips…a bottom bracket & springs wouldnt be bad either…
[quoted image]
OUCH!
Quoted from radial_head:but here we gooooooo.
Oh! That's from Disneyland's Peter Pan flight. 
Quoted from Peruman:Shopping out a 300 for a friend. He only has 5 of the original bonus balls. I looked everywhere online with no luck. Does anyone on this board have some of these for sale?
Alberto
Pinball Resource ?
Quoted from Knxwledge:Looking for an original replacement plastic for Big Brave/Big Indian
[quoted image]
I would cut a thin clear piece of polycarbonate and rest the OEM plastic on top of
said piece. I did it to Gottlieb's Royal Flush, and it worked out great.
Quoted from jdjdt1:Looking for a Midway White Lightning gun body 541-100 and or gun as the one I have is cracked at pin near trigger. Trigger guard is also broken. If you have something or suggestions please PM me.
John
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like a sand casting part.
Quoted from illawarra92:looking (still) for a gottlieb #Sea Belles playfield from 1956
had sent my playfield off to be restored, the guy has died and have no contact
help!![quoted image][quoted image]
This is so sad.
I hate when stuff like this happens.
Quoted from Brk_oth:Looking for a Gator ball grabbing mech for a Bally Nip-it.
OUCH! That is a hard assembly to find.
Quoted from NeonNoodle:Any options now for late 60's Williams 4" score reel plastic armature pawl (3B-7127) or armature and pawl assy (A-6295)? Marco had them years ago but now are discontinued. Anyone got a spare?
Quoted from Brk_oth:Yeah.... never see them anywhere..... I'm really hoping someone out there somewhere must have a gator mech..
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/145581
I do not know if sold or not.
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/thepinballworks
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Hey guys, before I call PBR, does anyone know what part this missing rollover button would be and if there’s something compatible I could find as a replacement? I just bought this machine but haven’t picked it up yet but can get a measurement from the owner if that helps.
It a 1976 Sonic ‘Faces’. I know that Williams parts are compatible with Sonic machines for the most part but other than that I’m lost on this. Thanks for any help.[quoted image][quoted image]
My only concern is the fact that the parts are usually metric.
I had to modify a regular pop bumper skirt to make the part work
in a Spanish pinball.
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Looking for a pawl that drives the Match Unit ratchet wheel for 1976 Sonic ‘Faces’. Looks like the original one broke off. Not sure if a 1976 Williams would be compatible like from my Space Mission but I can check if I need to.
Thanks.[quoted image]
OUCH!
Maybe someday someone will have the means to reproduce the 1976 era
Williams style 00 to 90 unit stepper unit.
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Sometimes you get lucky. Sure enough it came off and had rolled under the bottom board. I’m assuming that’s the entire pawl piece minus a little wire.[quoted image]
The spring is the tension/torsion spring for that unit piece.
It looks like a part of it has broken.
Quoted from radium:Thanks, I'm ordering flipper kits and stuff from them anyways, didn't know about the pop kits.
I THINK this one is 25VAC coils but I'm not sure. I can't tell from the schematic... maybe someone else can chime in.
The pop bumper switch stack has two contact points. The relay holding contacts
usually break or points drop off the switch blade. I would get the new contact lube.
The cup contact, part of the switch stack, uses a small amount...
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:So I’m guessing there’s no E-clip on this to keep it in place.
There's got to be something. I have seen two styles of clips for the assembly.
One is a regular E-clip the other is a ring-clip.
Quoted from pinhead52:I need... a plastic score reel to a Midway Winner game. Im sure Flying Turns etc used the same reels.
thx
[quoted image]
OUCH! I hate when plastic parts become brittle...
It's like the manufactures wanted these parts to fail and the games to
be discarded.
Quoted from MrVern:Looking for a plastic (lower left @ flipper) for Doozie or Daffie.
Would also be interested in any "closing flipper action" mech's for safe keeping.
Did you try Pinball Resource?
Quoted from Coyote:what is the purpose of those steel pins?
1) On Williams Space Mission, the steel pin is used to keep the ball from getting stuck
--- at the top point of the mini orbit shot that also has the rollover button.
1a) On Bally Freedom, the pin is used at the bottom of the left drop target assembly
--- to keep the ball from getting stuck with the rubber ring transition angle.
2) The steel pin can be used has a rubber ring guide to dress the rubber ring away
--- from lamps and switches.
3) The pin can help prevent the ball from sneaking back into the shooter lane.
4) The pin can be used as a tiny substitute space for a rubber ring.
5) The pin is used as a return gate stop. [ Captain Fantastic etc.]
6) Williams part #20A-6531. The Williams part # is not well documented.
Quoted from Coyote:So the same pin is used between Williams and such?
Williams and Bally, the steel pin is straight cut at each end.
With Gottlieb, the pin has a nail style tapered tip that helps nail the tip end into the wood.
One last input FWIW...
The more you know, playfield steel pin.
Bally's part #S-1071-84 playfield pin.
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:Any idea where to find rubber like these or a good way to do something similar? I was thinking some sort of tapered rubber instead as an alternative since the ball will only hit the large part of the rubber anyhow.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I was thinking something like Smoothon casting system for that part.
This is all I could find... Thought there would be more options.
Two Gottlieb titles.
http://bgresto.com/?p=2377
https://bgresto.com/?p=3267
Quoted from dasvis:Need a cam rider switch blade for the ball lift on my '57 Bally Show Time Bingo pin. Someone on the past had replaced it with a standard type blade & it wore thru! The fiber cam actually looks ok though - how I do not know.
[quoted image]
That cut through only happens with metal to metal contact. [ lack of lubrication ]
Fiber cams, can never have tinsel strength to do that kind of damage.
Note:
Manual has illustration has two metal cams ?
Note2: The clean bins and shaping of the guide finger looks OEM
------- Bally part #Q33-12-208-F0-145-N.S.
Note3: New & Improved cam witches...1969
------- Bally part # ASW-1X-SL2-L-1 [Cam Follower Integrated Par of Switch]
Quoted from dasvis:Need a cam rider switch blade for the ball lift on my '57 Bally Show Time Bingo pin. Someone on the past had replaced it with a standard type blade & it wore thru! The fiber cam actually looks ok though - how I do not know.
[quoted image]
I would inquire here at this website..
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjKzeGWm7L9AhV4LkQIHQjCCKMQFnoECBIQAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fbingo.cdyn.com%2Ftechno%2Fparts.html&usg=AOvVaw2gnxvkX31TkMtGaN2MBQAJ
Quoted from Playdium:Has anyone re-chromed original Gottlieb legs? Wondering what the cost is.
In California chroming is expensive... a lot of environmental fees have to be paid.
I think I paid $450.00 for a set of Gottlieb legs back in 1990's.
Plus if you get the leg bolts done, the people at some shops, like to ground down the bolt heads
so as the 5/8" or 9/16" wrenches no longer work anymore.
Quoted from pinhead52:I need... either a source to buy Williams apron screws, #6 2 1/4 long. Cant seem to find #6 in that length... or can somebody send me 3 or 4? Im missing one and 2 or 3 others are pretty badly corroded
[quoted image]
I thought the screws where a #7. OSCH hardware had #7 wood screws many years ago.
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Shaker Heights, OH
