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Quoted from boilerman:pbr doesn't have them. how many do you need? i have some in red, blue,green and yellow
Only need one red one!
Quoted from boilerman:one like this will be on its way
Thanks so much boilerman. Not just one but two (a spare) arrived! Looks great and fits perfectly!!!
I am in search of a plastic insert from a 1950s Gottlieb (see photo below). PBR has something similar but it is a tad smaller in diameter (not sure about height). These go in the apron area to indicate balls played or gobbled and appear to be relatively common for the era. One can be seen in the photo of a 1954 playfield below. The dimensions are 13/16” in diameter and 3/8” in height. Anyone have any from a parted machine or know of any potential sources? Thanks for any leads!
I am also looking for a couple of slotted playfield screws like the one shown in the following screw photo that I assume are common screws on 1950s Gottliebs that attach plastics/posts (see photo of playfield). Apparently these aren’t even available new as my good local hardware shop doesn’t have anything close (even in Phillips) and I can’t find them with the google. They are #6, oval, slot screws, 1-3/4” in length. Thanks! I could also use six of the #8, oval, slot screws that attach the playfield to the cabinet if someone has a bunch of playfield screws they’d like to sell.
CFF7F95A-3159-420A-835C-6835C75A2007 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from newmantjn:https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=4003
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=13969
The major difference between wood and sheet metal is the length of the threads. Sheet metal is fully threaded.
Thanks for the info on the screws newmantjn!
Anyone have an extra plastic insert from an early to mid-1950s Gottlieb that is used to keep track of balls played/gobbled (as in following photos)? They are 13/16” in diameter and 3/8” in height (and I only need one).
Thanks and sorry for the low res pics!
Quoted from mrm_4:Example with lights on...
Can barley see the seven
Gottlieb’s Three Musketeers has a similar projection system and the projected number is not very bright either in normal light. I thought that the bulb was weak, but replacing it with a fresh one gave the same result. Perhaps this is as good as it gets...?
Machine looks gorgeous!
Quoted from Mahoyvan:whatever else goes with it.
What appears to go with the rod is a spring, retainer clips and unit that interacts with the ball loader mechanism.
722D8101-7F7C-4AEF-AE90-2BBB000E05D1 (resized).jpegE7A01ACF-D94A-46A6-8782-150C9FADB1C9 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mahoyvan:Thanks so much for the diagram! Glad to have the part numbers for PBR if I need to go that route.
I just looked at a 1949 Gottlieb (Three Musketeers) and the ball lifter rod from that one is different from the one in the parts manual and the other photo I sent before (of a lifter rod from a 1952 Quartette). See photo below. I assume the other configuration could work, but perhaps your 1949 Gottlieb had something similar to that on the Three Musketeers. The lift rod is threaded at the end with the end unit threaded onto it. Then there’s a metal sleeve that keeps the rod from moving too much (I suppose). There was no spring on this one apparently. The external part of the rod has a red plastic cover on it (as opposed to a metal knob on the rod of the Quartette). And I don’t have part numbers of these...
Good luck!
25A26D54-E247-46B1-B678-B3699ECA4414 (resized).jpegDB72980A-4581-4B4B-8460-D52B9A3C2BCC (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgDoes anyone have any leads on a source for wiper fingers for Gottlieb stepper units (part number A-306)? These are the 0.023” thick ones and apparently are sold out at Pinball Resource (see link below). I searched for them with the googly and saw that Marcos and a few European sites list them but that they are out of stock at these suppliers too (also see below).
I have several on a couple different steppers of Gottlieb’s Three Musketeers that are worn flat with sharp corners instead of curved edges. Although they are functioning well currently, they are gouging grooves into the rivets and boards of the steppers. It appears that attempts to file the sharp corners will remove the outer edges that hold the wiper finger springs and so replacement of the wiper fingers seems to be the best option to avoid further damage.
Thanks for any help!
Quoted from boilerman:how many do you need?
Five are badly worn. Two I haven’t touched given how little metal is left on the edge that contacts the rivets. I did file the corners of the other three—there’s just enough of an overhang on these to hold the spring and just enough of a curved edge to not continue to damage the rivets and board, but I am not sure how long they’ll last.
Quoted from boilerman:so you need seven?
Sorry for my confusion. I really just need five--these will replace the ones that are badly worn.
Quoted from boilerman:found 5, do you need the springs also? pm me your info
Wow—cool! Will pm now. Thanks!!
I am looking for an old original white rollover for a mid 50s Gottlieb to replace a non-original red rollover in a Twin Bill. I have a new one from pbresource, but the color is too white compared to the other four original white ones.
These are the ones that have posts that are attached to the spoon (seems like part of the base was melted to attach it to the spoon). Sometimes the melted plastic that holds the rollover to the spoon breaks, but I have been able to reuse them by reaming out a hole in the base of the post and tapping the hole for a screw.
B4F44250-DE98-4BB2-8DB6-B9BE91C06A40 (resized).jpeg
I haven't seen these from a Williams machine, but given that pbresource sells "old style rollover buttons" for machines from the 50s through 70s (from pbresource website: "Used on games from the 1950's, 1960's, and 1970's."), I suspect they should work.
Quoted from John_In_WI:Shoot me your address and I'll send you a couple.
Thanks so thanks so much John! PM sent...
Quoted from John_In_WI:Shoot me your address and I'll send you a couple.
They (white old style rollover buttons) arrived!
I haven't had the chance to put one in yet, but they are indeed the correct sizes and the color is a great match for the original ones. Thanks so much John_In_WI!
Quoted from DCRand:Looking for used replacement pop cap for 1952 Williams Twenty Grand.
DCRand,
I have a spare one but it is stamped, “1 POINT WHEN LIT,” although the ink is long gone (see photo). PM me if interested.
FEEDC344-46DA-4AD5-A585-937A817B782D (resized).jpegQuoted from MarkG:squaring off the broken part along the straight lines of the triangles, then splicing in a matching piece from a reproduction part like this:
MarkG,
Where is the splice? Impressive repair!
I am looking for the coil bracket assembly for the 5" bell striker from the backbox of a 1953 Gottlieb Grand Slam as shown in the photo below (photo is from a 1954 Gottlieb that has the correct striker assembly in it).
Pinball Resource has a reproduction of a newer version of this assembly (see http://www.pbresource.com/news/gtb-b9359.jpg), but this newer assembly is too large for where it needs to go in Grand Slam (right behind the 10k stepper). The main difference between the one that was originally on Grand Slam and the reproduction is how they are mounted in the backbox--the newer one is mounted off the board (with four screws) while the correct one is mounted nearly flush to the board (with two screws).
IMG_1727 (resized).JPGQuoted from Bonk:Looking for a lock down bar
I may have a spare one (though am not sure if it’s for a late 40s Williams machine). Do you know the dimensions of a late 40s Williams lockdown bar? Or can you at least measure the distance between the bolt holes for the lockdown bar on your cabinet (and maybe the distance from each hole to each side of the cabinet)? At least that way I can check to see if I have one that could work for you.
I am looking for a “100,000 WHEN LIT” blue (marbled) pop bumper cap like the broken one shown in photo below for a Gottlieb Harbor Lites (photo is from pinside, my machine is missing the cap). Steve has repros of these listed on his site, but I am hoping to get one that is marbled to match the other caps on the machine. Thanks!
032B7793-9900-4FC6-B051-B390923F8F59 (resized).jpegQuoted from insight75:Is there something missing on this plunger? Gottlieb Twin Bill ball release.
If I remember correctly, there's also a small coil stop-like cylindrical piece (that sits inside the sleeve and adjacent to the stop) that has a hole in it (like the plunger) in which the inner spring sits. I may be able get mine apart to get a photo, but am not sure if you'd even be able to source an internal spring for a replacement (and the external compression spring should work fine).
If the inner spring is gone and the stop-like piece is gone, however, I would have to imagine that the plunger would be a bit short (the inner piece is maybe about 1/4" to 1/3" long). Is there any buzzing from the coil when it activates?
I have a switch for a quarter mech from a late 50s Gottlieb (photo below—the wire on this one was mangled, but I think I got it back to reasonable shape), but the one I have for a nickel mech has a broken wire. Does someone have a spare nickel mech switch or at least the measurement of the wire on a nickel mech switch so that I could bend a new one. I assume that the wire on the nickel mech switch is just a bit longer than the quarter one given the smaller diameter of the nickel, but otherwise haven’t seen any photos of comparison. Thanks for any help!
E634D4B7-62C5-44E4-802B-BBADE4123808 (resized).jpegQuoted from jeffc:Any chance the broken wire piece is still in the bottom of the cabinet somewhere?
Lots of other pieces were present in the cabinet and so I was hoping to find the broken wire, but no luck. The wire from the quarter mech switch was dangling and so was getting mangled whenever the coin door was opened and closed. I suspect that the wire from the nickel mech switch was also dangling and got mangled so much that it broke and likely fell off outside the cabinet.
Thanks too for the image of the catalog! More bad luck for me in that the three switches aren't shown!
I am guessing that the wire just needs to be a tad bit longer to work with a nickel. I tried the quarter mech switch with a nickel mech and the wire doesn't extend far enough for the nickel to move the wire far enough so that the contacts on the blades of the nickel coin switch touch (but the quarter mech switch does work well with a quarter mech). I suspect that the wire of the nickel mech switch is a tad bit longer than the quarter one and have enough wire to bend so that I can try a few different sizes if I can't get a measurement.
Quoted from vec-tor:Which game?/year?
This is for a 1958 Contest. It has a quarter slot and switch that can give 3-5 credits (adjustable option) and this works fine, but the nickel switch doesn't work obviously due to the broken wire on the mech switch (and yes, I want to get the damn nickel slot operational again even though I can put it on free play or just use quarters). A previous owner soldered the wires from the nickel switch directly to the replay button (and tied off the replay reel with a piece of string so that it never goes to zero--never saw that before!) to set the machine on free play. The coin mechs were also removed and so I was surprised to learn that "modern" coin mechs work in a 1958 machine (all my previous experience is with earlier Gottliebs that don't use mechs like these or later model machines).
Quoted from vec-tor:I would put an APD for the left, hinge side, coin chute wire...
now the I see the style of coin door.
APD?
Quoted from Murphdom:If anyone has one of these to sell it would be much appreciated. Thanks
If a reproduction arch hole cover is sufficient, they’re available at Pinball Resource:
I posted this a while ago but am still looking for the cap and so am trying my luck again:
I need a used “100,000 WHEN LIT” blue (marbled) daisy pop bumper cap like the broken one shown in photo below for a Gottlieb Harbor Lites (photo is from pinside, my machine is missing the cap). Steve has repros of these listed on his site, but I am hoping to get one that is marbled to match the other caps on the machine. Thanks!
C9253972-16A5-4B3E-9868-96733A9438A8 (resized).jpegQuoted from waltrr:I have a 10 point marbled blue cap if you're good with a Dremel. If so, you can cut out both centers and put yours in the unbroken cap. I know it's a PITA to do, I've had to do it, but if you want it, LMK
That sounds like a good idea. Thanks! Will send a message shortly.
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:Also, looking for a replacement shooter rod cover plastic since the one I have is either warped or bent in a way that the shooter rod rubs up against it when it has a rubber tip on it.
Steve has repros of the red shooter gauge (under "Signature Parts"). Nonetheless, it might be worth using a bit of heat (from a hair dryer) to warm up and then gently bend yours to make it work better. I had one that was bent like yours and it didn't take too much heat to make it straight. [Seems like Michael Scott would say something here.]
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:I was told I'd have to make my own linkages. I don't know if I have the right tools for that though.
It's not too complicated to make your own flipper links without any odd tools needed (except maybe a pin punch although you could do without if needed).
Order the bakelite "MAT-LINK" and proper roll pins (and maybe even the proper pin punch) from Steve (listed under tools/supplies)--the link should be plenty for both. Take out your worn metal links and trace them out on the bakelite. Then cut them out with a coping saw and drill the holes. Most difficult part might be removal and replacement of the roll pins that attach the links to the plungers. The proper pin punch can help or a nail or nail set can work too. Good luck!
Bell shells for early Williams machines and early Gottlieb bell assembly wanted.
First, I am looking for bell shells with diameter of 4" and diameter somewhere between 2-1/2 and 2-7/8" for early 1950s Williams machines. These are for two missing bell shells from a Williams Nifty (1950) (that are shown below in photo of a machine that has them--photo from ipdb). I haven't been able to confirm the size of the smaller bell shell but based on the length of the armature on the stepper (and rough calculations of sizes from the photo), it looks like it has a diameter somewhere between 2-1/2 and 2-7/8" or so.
Second, I am also reviving an older post from a few years back for a 5" bell assembly for a 1953 Gottlieb Grand Slam as shown in the photo below (photo is from a 1954 Gottlieb that has the correct striker assembly in it).
Pinball Resource has a reproduction of a newer version of this assembly (see http://www.pbresource.com/news/gtb-b9359.jpg), but this newer assembly is too large for where it needs to go in Grand Slam (right behind the 10k stepper). The main difference between the one that was originally on Grand Slam and the reproduction is how they are mounted in the backbox--the newer one is mounted off the board (with four screws) while the correct one is mounted nearly flush to the board (with two screws).
Here's a photo (from ipdb) that shows the bell assembly in a Grand Slam.
Quoted from pinhead52:On the 5 inch bell, I have 3 different styles, you should be able to adapt one to a flush mount
Thanks Ken! I'll take a peek to see what might work and send you a message about pricing if one of those looks promising.
Quoted from newmantjn:I think that Grand Slam has the bell you are looking for.
Yes, thanks newmantjn! It's a perfect match for the missing one on my Grand Slam! I am working with psd4me to get it here. AlexF too is sending a spare 4" shell he has.
I am still trying to find a source for and the actual size of a small bell shell that Williams used on early 1950s machines (seems like it should be smaller than 3"--see post 9627 above), but am extremely happy to have found two of the three bell-related items I am looking for!
Quoted from AlexF:Been saving these 4" bells for quite awhile. Would let them go.
The bell arrived today--thanks so much @alexf!
I am working on a 1948 Chicago Coin Crazy Ball machine and am looking for the following items that were used in this and other mid to late 40s and possibly early 50s CCM machines.
O-273 coil (used with plunger to ring bell and has mounting hardware for coil directly attached to coil):
O273 (resized).jpg
Coin door-mounted counter assembly or just the X-298 coil that goes in relay:
counter (resized).jpg
X298 (resized).jpg
Relay on coin door used with coin slide (mounted with the bottom two screws of the coin slide):
slide_relay (resized).jpg
Thanks for any help!
I am looking for an older (late 40s or early 50s) Chicago Coin stepper unit or simply the finger assembly to repair a broken assembly/fingers on a stepper of a 1948 CCM machine (Crazy Ball). Thanks for any help!
I spoke too soon--this is no longer needed--used a few switch blades and rivets to repair it.
Looking for a late 1940's shooter rod for a Chicago Coin machine. The rod is 5/16" in diameter (instead of the standard 3/8") and approximately 8" long (from outside/back end of knob to end of threaded area of rod--or so I guess given that mine is missing about 90% of the threaded portion). An image of one from the 1948 CCM catalog is shown below.
CCM_shooter_rod (resized).pngQuoted from vec-tor:I believe Steve Young at Pinball Resource might have metal lane covers.
They're in the tools section (https://www.pbresource.com/toolbox/mat-shield-01.jpg).
Description from https://www.pbresource.com/tools.html:
"MAT-SHIELD
8" length center-to-center of holes (8-9/16" overall), flat
High polish one side, protective covering to be removed.
Thickness 0.042 laser cut
Hole in each end #18 drilll to print...ends rounded.
Gottlieb and others used flat nickel plated shiny metal shields over top of playfield posts to create lanes....before plastic rollover guides came into use. They made an annoyingly large number of them of differing lengths. On a game, they are rusty and don't clean up well or are dented, or both.
We have had made an 8" strip of high polished stainless steel with each end punched and rounded. Width is 5/8". The idea here is to make it long enough that it would serve to make 1 long or 2 shorter shields. The customer would cut, round, and drill the lengths desired but one end is ready to use alreasy."
Anyone have a spare armature (part number A-375) for a Gottlieb bank relay (like one on the left in photo below) to replace one with its tabs broken off (the one on the right)? The poor positioning of the broken armature in the relay (due to the broken tabs) occasionally prevents the respective relay from resetting during a bank reset (or even when attempting to reset it manually). It appears that this style armature was used on bank relays from 1940s to 1960s at least--not sure how much later it was used.
It's apparently out of stock at Pinball Resource.
Thanks!
Quoted from BotkinRacing:Do you know what these are called or have the part number?
They're probably listed in other catalogs, but here's what I could find in a few: the 1949 Chicago Coin catalog lists them as "3-126 Triangle bumper" (for 10 cents!). My best guess from the Gottlieb catalog from 1957 (there are no photos or illustrations that I could quickly find to confirm like in the other catalog) is that they're listed as "#12 Standard triangle" (under "plastics") (no price given).
Ones used on older machines had marbling in them (white smears in the color--even the white ones). I don't remember seeing how these are in newer machines (like a 1970 Scuba) but suspect they weren't marbled.
Quoted from BotkinRacing:You are correct! Someone that just picked up a Scuba sent me this. If anyone has one please let me know, would love to buy one. If not, I guess I could get one that's another color and just paint it!
Don't have any like that. Good luck!
Quoted from illawarra92:I'm after a white one
Like this one? It's intact. Send me a pm if so.
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