(Topic ID: 93586)

The EM seeking parts thread.


By Shapeshifter

5 years ago



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#30 5 years ago

Looking for original manual for a Gottlieb Jumping Jack.

Will take the schematic/manual and packet if need be to get the manual.

Mike O.

#49 5 years ago

Need backbox for Gottlieb Abra Ca Dabra.

Mike O.

#51 5 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Need a two player Gottlieb backbox (for Fire Queen EM).

I have a Outer Space 2 player backbox in the Kansas City area.

Mike O.

#71 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Looking for apron for Slick Chick - also plunger mech (anything that'll fit and not too rusty), "sponge" stopper at top and the opposite "one way" metal bracket that rest on either side of the top rollovers.
Also need some bumper caps - forget which letters - will look.
Making an old pf into a coffee table..........

I have a used set of Slick Chick pop bumper caps. They need the letters restenciled onto them. One or two has a chip to the daisy edge. The Deco caps are not broken I believe. Let me know which ones you want if interested.

I have three of the one way metal lane guides (two of one and one of the other) but they have some delamination of the plating. I can send pictures of these and the caps.

Mike O.

#89 5 years ago

Looking for a late 60's early 70's Gottlieb instruction card holder with the ball in play insert nested below the surface of the holder.

If I have to I can refinish the one I have with a Pinball Rescue Australia decal but would prefer to find an original.

I have a nice generation Gottlieb instruction card holder for trade from the mid 70's Gottlieb games.

Also need the long right hand playfield plastic for a Gottlieb Aquarius.

Mike O.

#97 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinbee:

I bought an original, slightly used, from PBR in the last couple of months, just a few dollars.

Got mine from PBR today. Thanks for the lead. That is the last place I would have expected to get an original EM manual from. And it appears to be NOS.

Mike O.

#117 5 years ago
Quoted from PMcGee:

Just picked up a Buccaneer with the wrong spinner - I can probably make a decal of the spinner but a nice shiny new one would be way groovy.

I'm pretty sure I have an NOS spinner for Bucaneer. I'll look tonight. It wasn't cheap when I picked it up.
If I have it $35 shipped will get it.

Mike O.

#131 5 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

What does the original Buccaneer spinner look like?
Steve

Like this:

DSC09807.JPG
DSC09808.JPG

Mike O.

#146 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

I only need the lower cabinets, thankfully, the heads were stored separately. They're for an Abra Ca Dabra and an Aquarius. I don't mind repainting a cabinet.
Will the Duotron (2 player) work for a wedgehead? I can't think of any differences. If so, I'll check in with Gene. I drive by his spot all the time.

The Duotron cabinet will work for both games. If I am not mistaken the hole layout for the main relay boards in the bottom of the cabinet is mostly the same also. Don't hold me to it but I have swapped cabinets before with minimal effort. Even put a late Gottlieb EM main relay board into an early Gottlieb System 1 body cabinet and the holes lined up for the main relay board. Even if they don't line up, that will be the worst thing you need to deal with.

Mike O.

#151 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

The same guy has a Skyline, it is in decent shape, but he wants good money for it. With two inch flippers and the grand canyon for outlanes, it does look pretty tempting.

Skyline doesn't have the legs that other games from this era have. But it is one of the best looking games out there.

The center wheel where you can get any of the numbers overcompensates the difficulty you want to keep it a balanced game.

I'm sure you can adjust it to be more challenging. But if you are looking for challenging there are more challenging games out there.

Mike O.

#158 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

The Big Casino I am working on is pretty challenging, but the art package is not that appealing to me. Especially with the repainted cabinet. But I am going to finish it up and play the heck out of it before it moves on.

Here are pics of the one I had 10 years ago. It was a gorgeous example, just too much work in the game play for too little reward. I will say the advancing "Big Casino" letters was a unique feature.

Mike O.

DSC00853.JPG
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#160 5 years ago

Even looking that good, the Big Casino I had was around for less than a month.

#162 5 years ago

O-Din,

I did a quick look at your wishlist and saw Sea Ray on there. If you want a challenging game that is also rewarding, Sea Ray will fit your bill. It can be quite challenging with the huge outlanes. But it has enough other stuff going for it that you have enough different ways to stay in the game.

Sea Ray was the first game my parents' got. I got into the hobby and they thought it would be good to look for some games to put in the basement for the grandkids. They put an ad in the Thrifty Nickel and Sea Ray showed up. The people they got it from said it was given to them so they gave it to my parents.

Good luck in your search.

Mike O.

1 month later
#275 5 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

kingpinman the bronco stepper is 10/18 will not fit
if you find the parts I will help make one for you
you need a stepper and 2 male jones plugs, 12 and 14
do you have a schematic?
I am thinking it is the same a sheriff if so I have one

As for the jones plugs, I will suggest tracking down the jones plug ends of the main wiring harness off a junked playfield or main relay board. To be clear, you really want the wiring terminated to the jones plug so the build is only on the solder end of the wires at the relay itself.

Also, if you find a larger connector than 12 and 14 from an old harness that is OK as the extra pins can be cut off easily. Like boilerman said above, the 10 on the bronco stepper won't work because you need a 12 minimum for that side and you can't add pins to a connector. You may be able to use the 18 side of it though if the wiring is long enough for the path the Sherriff/Lawman stepper requires.

Good luck.

1 month later
#352 5 years ago
Quoted from frb:

Would anyone have a scan of the top upper center clear plastic on gottlieb Atlantis and Lawman. The plastic is a ball guide for the right lanes. Both my games have broken plastics. Just a weak design. I plan on making a couple of these in stainless.

PM sent.

1 month later
#425 5 years ago
Quoted from PhilC:

Need a single, small yellow playfield post from an early 60's Williams game. Not the tall ones used for under plastics, but the rounder top ones used out in the open parts of playfield. Like the yellow one pictured on the left here:http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1863&picno=30252

PM sent.

1 week later
#445 5 years ago
Quoted from PhilC:

Got the post today, thanks again!
Phil

You are very welcome.

Glad to help.

3 weeks later
#467 5 years ago

Pinball Resource will have your pop bumper cap.

#470 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotoes:

nah, not in the correct color/style. i'd also like one with a bit of patina as i don't plan on replacing any other plastics and don't want it to stand out.

Sorry for putting out bad info. Looks like the best you can do, short of finding an original, is get a replacement PBR cap with no art on the center and make and apply a decal.

Good luck in your search.

#478 5 years ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

Looking for Armature Plate for Gottlieb mini-stepper:

Armature2.jpg 4 KB

PBR should have that. I've bought it from them in the past.

#480 5 years ago

Not a good sign when Steve is exhausting stock.

2 weeks later
#513 4 years ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Fire Queen / Vulcan Playfield Plastic center piece behind above the green drop targets

You guys with Fire Queen and Vulcan should lobby Pinball Rescue to remake this set. Invariable both drop target bank plastics are busted up. And we aren't talking a small chip or split - we are talking busted up.

I put in my vote for Jungle Queen and Jungle Princess a few years ago and was rewarded about a year ago.

1 week later
#605 4 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

I need a Match Unit for Gottlieb Flip a Card. This is the unit in the backbox and not the one under the playfield. It has two connectors with 2x7 pins on each. It is technically called the "0-9 Unit" for this game. Any help would be great!
Edit: I have lots of parts to trade, give away or sell including other match units. Just parted a Jack in the Box, Target Alpha and Quick Draw which were all in a fire. The internal metal parts are mostly good. Have sold and/or given a lot away already.

Be careful with what you obtain here. I actually just recreated a match unit for a Centigrade 37 which has two 2x7 jones plugs but highly doubt it would function correctly in your FAC. Unless you can find one from a FAC you will probably need to rewire one based off of one from a FAC.

#607 4 years ago

If you have a guide in the form of another FAC that is the best.

Don't sell yourself short in terms of reproducing this relay in its entirety if you have the other FAC as a go by.

At a minimum to only get the alternating function you will need:
1. Main AS relay body with spindle, coil, actuator plate.
2. Make switch for on/off function of the alternating relay function.
3. Jones plug(s) for two wires(i'm predicting here that the alternating function will be an on/off set up) for the alternating switch.
4. Jones plug(s) for two wires for the power signal to the coil.

Getting the alternating function will be very simple having to only hook up 4 wires. All the other wires for this relay are for the match determination and lighting.

Good luck.

#625 4 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Exactly. It is using the extra NC and NO contacts on the Match unit to toggle the center pop from 10 to 100 points and also light the light (hence the 75 ohm resistor).
So the cam on those switches determines how much of the time the pop bumper is lit. I have a few extra match unit.

In that case it is a make/break switch which will require a switch on the AS relay the same as is on C37. I found that actual switch difficult to find and actually used a separate make and separate break switch to do the job. There are usually no extra switches on these relays to "use". And it will take three wires instead of two to make it work.

#629 4 years ago
Quoted from fflint_18:

The 7 bank drop targets have a series bar inside which lets a switch activate when all the targets are down.

Series Bar is missing.

Not sure if Steve has these. Part number is A-14535.

Ask Steve anyway. He has had some of these parts in the past.

1 week later
#657 4 years ago
Quoted from Twindad2:

I am restoring my North Star and need two marblelized rollover guides. Each is 2 1/2 inches long and double-sided. One is green, the other yellow. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks.

Same here. For some reason these color/size combinations were uncommon and residual parts from parts games are hard to come by in marbleized form. Your best bet is to buy reproduction parts from Pinball Resource.

#665 4 years ago
Quoted from egyptrus:

I'll openly admit that tapping this out to get it straight will likely result in it looking worse than it does.
I was surprised to find that PBR doesn't stock them as this seems like a part that was on a lot of games in that era.
If they aren't available then I guess I won't have a choice but to try and straighten it out. Is there a preferred method for doing that?
Dave

It isn't a task to take on for the faint of heart. I remove these on almost every game that comes through my doors to polish it out as best as possible, to take out any kinks and straighten it, and to refinish the wood rails.

I use a couple of plastic scrapers to get under the metal and start the twist screws out. This is all done with the side rail removed totally from the playfield. I start with a thinner scraper which gets the twist nails to start out. Then I apply a thicker one which usually deforms the guide at the nail holes but gets the twist nail backed out enough that I can grab the nail head with a small vice grip and pull and twist it out.

Once out, as Dirt noted, don't bang on the front side of it for straightening as you will leave a scar in the plating finish. Polish and straighten to your heart's content and then nail it back in reusing the original twist nails.

1 week later
#685 4 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Miracles do happen.

2015Jan31 041.JPG 41 KB

Way to go, Dirt.

4 weeks later
#774 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

I am in need of the big 100 point bell that the monkey hits in the back glass of Central Park.

Send it to Mike Chestnut to replate it. He can redo it in nickel plating and it will come out great. His work is highly recommended.

1 week later
#825 4 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

According to Rat T, my Royal guard uses the true Decagon flat sided score reels. Would it be possible to use later reels in this 1968 pin, & if so, what years will work. I have no qualms about making this this beater, err, player condition pin non-original.

From 1967 to about 1974 would be safe. All they really changed that I am aware of is the face of the reels from decagon to round.

#826 4 years ago

I have a 2001 head relay board and main relay board that have been scrounged for a few parts but are there for the most part that could help someone salvage a 2001, especially if either of these are missing.

I know of a gentleman that is resurrecting a Gottlieb Gold Strike with only the playfield and head relay board to start with. He is actually making the main relay board copying another Gold Strike main relay board. I sold him the starter playfield and head relay board parts when he responded to my Mr. Pinball Wanted to Buy ad looking for a Gold Strike main relay board. His first comment was that it would best to just repair the main relay board in my game when I broke the news to him that it was missing. It would have been so much easier were one to show up.

So on that note - looking for main relay board for Gottlieb Gold Strike.

1 week later
#871 4 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Gottlieb "AG" relays needed for my Royal guard project.
All of these use A9735 coils, need -
One 3A
One 2A
One 5A
Two 4A
(these are all normally open switches)

What do you mean by the "3A"? Is 3 the number of slots you need on the actuator or is that the number of switches you need for that specific relay?

What does the "A" mean?

#884 4 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Still need a light divider for the ball in play card area for Crescendo.

Here are pictures of the one I will bring to TPF. image.jpgimage.jpg

4 weeks later
#988 4 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I sent Steve at PBR a note with the $200 lockdown bar "see what happens when you run out of stuff..."
he writes:
yup....you should be grateful that I have some principles and price items based on what they cost to make instead of what I could charge for them!
I view it important that I be a stabilizing force in this hobby and try to behave as such. Thanks for your support!
Steve
The Pinball Resource
And we are grateful Steve!

Go Steve Young!!

#994 4 years ago
Quoted from waltrr:

Hi Mike, Hope all is well.
Still haven't finished that Flipper. One day

All is well here - busy but well. Same to you. Are you retired yet?

As for Flipper, the hardest part is done - getting the game that is.

#995 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Does anyone have, or know who stocks, the metal plate with the nylon tabs mounted to it that sits beneath the Gottlieb Decagon Score Reels? I bought a Target Alpha this week that has several of those tabs broken off so the score reels want to work their way back away from the back-glass when activated sometimes.
If I can just replace the nylon tabs (can i?) please let me know. And/or I'd like to find who stocks the metal plates and just swap out those.
Thanks!

I have never asked Pinball resource if they have the plates with the tabs on them. If anyone does they will. Otherwise you will need to source used. And even then would be best to just replace the plate with one where the tabs are not broken.

I have seen where people do one of two things to correct the condition.

1. Screw a small screw between the metal plate and the nylon slot to secure the reel. This is more headache when servicing the reel but works. You have to be careful to not push the reel into the backglass.

2. Drill a small hole through the rear bottom edge of the reel plate and drill matching hole(s) in the nylon guide and insert a hairpin clip to hold the reel in place. This is the way the 50's and 60's score reels were held in place. Again, you have to be careful to not push the reel into the backglass.

1 week later
#1030 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

When I emailed Mike a few months ago he was not taking on any new work.

Contact him again. His decision to not take on new work was only temporary so he could get through the backlog.

1 month later
#1159 4 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

mike something is better than nothing. I have a feeling that it will be a tough find.
let me know what I owe you

I'm Mike. He's Rod.

3 weeks later
#1223 4 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

pbr will have them, I hate to have to replace all just to match one bad one. but sometimes you just have to.. they are only 4 bucks each so not to bad unless it is a 2001

My experience has been that the new yellow drop targets don't look out of place next to original ones. For some reason the plastic they used for the new yellow targets is very close to the original, even with some patina thrown in.

1 month later
#1427 4 years ago
Quoted from FugTM:

Is there an SS seeking parts thread?

Not here there isn't.

#1454 4 years ago

Need a 1-1/8" diameter translucent white rollover insert for a 1961 Williams Space Ship.

Useable used condition is all I'm looking for. Anyone have a Williams parts playfield with one of these?

image.jpgimage.jpg

#1466 4 years ago
Quoted from RacingPin:

RolloverInsert.jpg
I searched my parts bin and found 2 off a 59 Gottlieb Seven Seas rollover inserts. I'm guessing these are the same as the Williams. This is a perfect candidate for epoxy resin casting. 3D printers would not handle translucency properly and would leave an unattractive ring pattern. I produce those BaB animation balls and I'll take a stab at these.
I'll keep updates coming ..
Mike V.

Thanks for the offer.

I have two coming for now albeit a non original color. Let me see what I end up with and their fit. My preference would be to find one in the original white translucent.

1 week later
#1487 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

It's for the 1975 Atlantis project I'm doing, so any pedestal from a wedgehead of that same era will work.

Actually the pedestal can come from a multiplayer game as well and does not even have to be EM. Even though the power cord slot on the back side will be in a different place the pedestal from a System 1 game will work as well.

#1495 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

How hard is it to find the "coin accept" plates for early Gottliebs? this would be the narrow metal piece with two extended slots that the coins go into??? Forgot to look at York - found a cabinet and legs, bolts, but need this part.

Out of the coin parts on a game those insert parts are the hardest to find for the 60's games.

2 weeks later
#1589 4 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

where are these flipper kits in the top level menus? Not the easiest site to nav.

Under Playfield Parts and then Flipper Rebuild Kits.
http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html

#1602 4 years ago

Need instruction card(s) for 1961 Williams Space Ship. Decently clear scans of original cards would be adequate.

Let me know what you have.

2 weeks later
#1685 4 years ago
Quoted from Solder_Splash:

I'm hoping someone out there can dig up a few for me. They don't have to be perfect. Just need to have a little meat on them than the ones I have.

Don't discount the Gottlieb versions just because they are too thick. Albeit difficult to handle because they are so small, you could sand them to the dimension you need which would create the best starting point lacking an actual Williams example.

At the same time I can't believe there aren't some used spare parts out there.

Good luck with your search

#1723 4 years ago
Quoted from balzofsteel:

A quick blob of molten wire and good as new.
IMG_0255.jpg

It's good to have friends with molten wire blobbers.

#1735 4 years ago

Another word for a molten wire blobber is a wire feed welder.

In the right hands it can fix the damage to your chime unit of you have the right friend.

If not, finding a replacement in acceptable condition is also an acceptable, and probably more accessible solution.

Good luck with what appears to have surfaced with the replacement chime unit. Don't part with the old one in case the need arises again and repairing that one is a viable solution.

1 week later
#1783 3 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

I'm thinking Super Soccer might fit. I'll have to measure them though when I get time (I have an Atlantis) and check condition and get back to you.

The side rails are the same between Super Soccer and Atlantis.

1 week later
#1802 3 years ago

Looking for two original (i know PBR sells repros) Gottlieb two slot coin bezels for 1968 to 1975 games.

I have nice three slot bezels for trade or will purchase outright.

1 month later
#1955 3 years ago

I sure could use a couple of decent condition original two slot coin entry plates for a late 60's/early to mid 70's Gottlieb EM.

I'd even swap even new PBR repros. For the two games in question I prefer to stay with original.

I have two three slot entry plates I'd trade as partial payment.

#1964 3 years ago

Does anyone have a repro El Dorado backglass sitting around they're not going to use they'd like to sell?

I know Shay has them - I'm just looking to save a few bucks.

#1986 3 years ago
Quoted from spiroagnew:

Just got a GTB World Fair with two of the three counersunk slotted screws missing. Will try Steve Young, but chances are he'll send me to the hardware store. Any leads? Should these be easy to locate?

Take the one you have with you to the hardware store and get exact matches for it there.

You are looking for flat head with the same taper to the head.

You are looking for the same thread diameter - probably a #6 or #8 - and the same pitch which will probably be fine.

You are looking for the same length although if you can find the right head and thread but too long you could cut it down and get it to work.

I'd buy three new because the finish may be a bit different.

#2000 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

The 10,000s unit on my 1957 Williams Steeple-Chase has worn thru on one of the large rivet plates and other rivets too. I fixed it once but it didn't last. If anybody has a stepper unit like this with at least the correct # of terminals and rivet plates like this I could probably make it work. Thanks!

Have you tried to fill the voids on the rivet heads and traces with lead free solder? Lead free requires a hotter temp to melt and I expect it would be more abrasion resistant.

3 weeks later
#2069 3 years ago

I have a decent 4 Square bare playfield I could bring to TPF or ship if anyone is interested.

#2083 3 years ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

I got this busted rollover button from a Toledo. Can anyone spare me one or two of them?

Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

PBR has them but not in RED. You can always change them all out for the ORANGE ones so they all match if you cannot find used red ones:
http://www.pbresource.com/rollobut.htm
Ken

Weren't the originals orange to begin with? So the replacements from PBR should be just fine?

#2097 3 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

Here's what I am after. Note the flat spot on the ratchet and the remains of the pin in the rightmost of the 2 holes.

An appropriately sized bolt with a plastic/nylon sleeve will get your pin replaced.

The flat spot is factory and is supposed to be there if you were concerned.

2 months later
#2323 3 years ago
Quoted from 4Max:

Indeed.
Aahgo, thanks for the photos. I think I'll have to try and make something. Not that easy as you know due to the hole in the backboard limits things like mounting brackets unless I use the original and try and make an armature....but I think that's beyond me, so I'll try to reuse another coil like you suggested and somehow affix a longer lever.
Also, I think I may have to use cotton rather than springs to connect to the dancing girl as I tried stretching a few spare springs and it's very tricky to get the tension spot on!

Just my point of view on both of your issues above.

1. Actuator plate - If you are going to try and make something work - maybe by adding an arm extension to an existing actuator arm, I would recommend just trying to make the plate you need. Looks like 1/16" steel plate would be about the right material. You can drill, grind with a dremel, and file easily enough if aahgo would be inclined to make a template of the plate on his game.

2. Springs - If you are going to try and make something work - cotton cord in lieu of springs, keep at it with the springs. There is a world of spring material out there to work with. I'm sure you could stretch something to an adequate tension to get this to work once you have a competent actuator plate.

In summary, if you have to come up with something to begin with, try to stay close to original form so you are working on only one variable: come up with the part - instead of two variables: coming up with the part and doing it differently that the manufacturer did it.

1 week later
#2350 3 years ago

I've got a couple transformers I'd be willing to ship Don if you still need.

#2389 3 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

Both pieces would be better. I guess i could live without the top trim piece.

I have the top trim piece.

#2395 3 years ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

I am looking for the lower plastics for a Jungle Queen/Princess. Please let me know if you any you can spare.
Thanks, Matt

That's a tough one. Those are the two that are almost always broken on that game.

Pinball Rescue has the repro set but I assume you already know that as your picture appears to have been taken from their website.
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Jungle_Princess.html

1 week later
#2402 3 years ago

You can get the spacers from PBR and reinstall to your existing switch. Much easier than pulling a switch blade from a stack.

2 weeks later
#2437 3 years ago
Quoted from SadSack:

I've got a Crosstown in disrepair. The PF is really nice and fully populated. The BG is shot and the cabinet is weathered. I'd sell the complete playfield if anyone is interested, but I'm not letting UPS get more than me.

Where are you located. Maybe someone more inclined would be able to salvage it.

I'm interested if you are close enough to me.

2 weeks later
#2479 3 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

if you use a dremel sanding drum and clean up the edges then flame polish the edge they really come out good. you did the hard part now you just need to finish it.

Or even a sanding drum you can chuck into your drill gun. Like this kit:
http://www.harborfreight.com/sanding-drum-kit-20-pc-60741.html

4 weeks later
#2525 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Picked up an atlantis last night. Where can i get these lane diverters and what are the part numbers. Also looking for some of the mounting screws for plastics and star posts as well as acorn nuts. Thx

You should be able to polish those wire lane guides with Mothers Mag Polish and get them looking like new, all while installed in the game.

Pulling those has the potential to lift the surface of the playfield and create a different flaw.

3 weeks later
#2605 3 years ago

What game is it for?

The cam wheels might be different. They are common between different games but not all can be used on all games. The parts manual will tell you which games you want to pursue one from.

Motors are mostly era specific. Wood rails have their era. I believe there is a point in the 60's where they changed over to basically the motor they used until the end of the EM era.

2 months later
#2817 3 years ago

No, that's not it.

3 weeks later
#2897 2 years ago
Quoted from monsonb:

What would be a good replacement for Gottlieb-style lockdown bar on a Recel machine? I think I've read advice about someone adapting a System 80 bar, but I'm not sure if that's right.
This is for a reeeeealy tough looking Criterium 75.

If it is standard width and others have adopted a system 80 bar you would probably want to capture the latching mechanism also and adapt the cabinet to this mech.

FWIW the standard width Gottlieb lock bar is basically the same from System 1 all the way through System 3 including the System 80 games.

1 month later
#3016 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballbrian:

O- din ,you still there.did not hear back.let me know something soon, thanks.

click on O-Din's name in his post and a drop down will open with an option to "Send PM". PM is Private Message. Then you can talk offline through Pinside.

Not that we mind listening in on your private conversations.

#3024 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballbrian:

Odin,not getting messages.did you see my messages to your pm.

Looks like someone's spam filter is working overtime.

1 week later
#3066 2 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Just joined the EM club last week by adding a Playmatic Conquest 200 to my collection. In search of schematics for either Conquest or New World(4 player version, assuming schematics are very similar). Thanks in advance!

If your first EM get the 2 player specific schematics. Hard to say what they made the same in wire colors between 2 and 4 player.

Try Pinball Resource first.

2 weeks later
#3080 2 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

I could use one too if you find a source. Failing that you can put a couple of washers under either set of screws that hold the relay to the flash unit frame. (There are two screws that hold the relay frame to the Z bracket, and another two that hold the Z bracket to the flash unit frame.) That will slide the brake out a little and move the notch out from under the teeth. Here's a closer look:

If you look closely you can see the washers and the notch moved out a bit.

There you go. Pinball ingenuity. Keep it up.

Great solution, Mark.

1 week later
#3123 2 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

Just picked up an Eye of the Tiger and need to replace one light purple/rose-colored broken drop target. Don't want a full set from PBR if I don't have to.
Sinbad has this color drop target too.

If you can't find a single matching drop target I wouldn't be so worried about matching color for it. And even if it is an issue you can always get three of them so they do match.

#3125 2 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

Matching color isn't a big issue as me trying to save a few $$$$'s. I would gladly pay for one drop versus 10. If I can't find one, this pf would justify the cost of a new set.
BTW, Mike, have you received the new drop target style Steve is hot-stamping now? The new ones are slightly curved in the back and don't lay flat like the old- and it makes the face of the drop target about a quarter inch closer to the player. Which means you can't mix new with old because the new is out of line with the rest in the row.

Dave, I have not ordered any drop targets in a long time. So you are saying he has materially changed the physical configuration of the face of the target? How can that be? The design, for it to drop cleanly, has to be a flat front configuration. Do you have a picture of one? Nothing on his website gives any indication of a design change or incompatibility with the original targets.

You're not confusing the early Bally/Stern drops with the Gottlieb drops, are you? The Bally/Stern came in two configurations with a lip at the top to make the top surface deeper and cover the gap in the playfield more completely. I don't know the philosophy of where they applied which one.

My comment above was relative to the few colored targets I have purchased in the past from Steve. I struggle with his new whiter than white targets as they are too white for my tastes. I will do everything I can to keep original targets on my games where the background was originally white. But his colored targets I've found are quite acceptable. And worst case scenario you could buy only the three purple targets for your EotT and be just fine if the purple doesn't match what is on the game now. This is all assuming they follow the original design.

#3130 2 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

Ok,
Just got off the phone with Steve Young.
He said mold hasn't changed since around 2000 or so. Said if the mold gets off he has to get that resolved. Has had to do it before. I'm not sure how a mold could get off that much, but then again I don't know anything about molds.

I see no difference on the front side of the target.

That does not look like the mold has deteriorated. It looks like a design change to the back edge of the drop target, I suspect, for the reset bar. Not sure what changes they made to the drop target mech after EM. They should not face in different planes based on the step on the front of the target stem.

What does the back side look like? To me it looks like you could sand down the enhanced ribs on the back side and, effectively, have an original target design.

#3131 2 years ago

The more I look at it there appears that there may be a slight difference to the straightness of the new target as viewed from the side.

If that is the case I don't think replacing just the three purple targets will stand out.

#3139 2 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

I e-mailed Steve my pic of the two drop targets with different designs and here's what he said:
The difference in the rear of the target....was an old design, changed by Gottlieb per the history of the drawing we have. We made to the latest print.

Dave- I dug through my spare and leftover drop targets and found, as an example, NOS El Dorado cactus drops and some are original design and some are new design.

I see nothing to the new design with the ribs on the back that would keep one from inserting this next to an original design and fully believe they would function just fine and the faces would align straight on the top side of the playfield. Short of color or art differences you should not be able to tell any difference.

If you have one with a curved face or back I would expect it is a defect.

#3148 2 years ago
Quoted from Ralph67:

Hi Brett are these what you need ? I will send the extra bits you need and a spare100pt coil as they sometimes half cooked .

Be sure to pack it well if you are sending the score reel also. Those metal score reels are very delicate. It might even be easier to remove it and pack is separately so you can protect it easier.

I bought a few of these on eBay several years ago and the reels arrived almost indistinguishable.

Not questioning your packing skills.

1 week later
#3171 2 years ago
Quoted from sethington:

Trying to track down a replacement switch for my score reel on Rancho. The copper lead snapped off and I'm not having much luck finding the part number.
This is the smaller 2 lead switch that gets separated when the score reel plunger pulls into the coil. I thought it might be this one http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1122 but this one seems about a half inch longer than the broken one (measured around ~2")

Take any similar base switch blade and layer the tab end with two holes over the original switch leaf and solder to it, assuming I understand what happened and that the leaf and contact are intact. Post picture and I can send you one.

#3174 2 years ago
Quoted from sethington:

Took a picture of a good switch and the broken one. Tried to solder a lead on but it wasnt strong enough, snapped on me. I like the idea of using the 2 holes to help strengthen, I'll give that a shot. Hopefully I haven't made too much of a mess out of this switch!

Is that the switch blade with the broken solder tab? If so I'll get a part dimension tonight for you to confirm and then send you a new tab. If it is something different that you need we can discuss.

#3176 2 years ago

I have switches from a different Williams score reel. Pictures are here. Does one of these match the configuration of the one you need?

The screw centers are 3/8" for the larger single switch and the screw centers at about 1/4" for the smaller switches.

Let me know.

IMG_4822 (resized).JPG

IMG_4823 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#3210 2 years ago

I need a black A drop target for a Joker Poker. I only want original. It's OK if it has a line through the center from the ball hit area.

#3216 2 years ago
Quoted from ejacques:

If not, I probably do too....I ended up with a ton of A,K,Q,J,10 drop targets in a parts lot.

Thanks for the offer. Boilerman came through.

#3222 2 years ago

Looking for left end cap for early 60's Williams lock bar. Or a complete lock bar. Has the threaded rods and wing nuts for securing the bar to the game. The game this is for is a '61 Metro.

#3225 2 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

ask and you shall receive!!!!
ebay.com link » Vintage Pinball Lockdown Bar With End Caps And Threaded Studs Classic Williams

Thanks, Dave. I looked before I posted but it wasn't there.

Still could use a left cast end cap for an early 60's Williams lock bar to make this one complete.

#3230 2 years ago
Quoted from waltrr:

Steve Young should have them. That's where I get mine, but it's been a while since I've purchased any. Part #C3655

Bummer. Out of stock at the moment.

#3246 2 years ago

I have both the head relay board and the main relay board for a Gottlieb 2001.

There have been some parts robbed from each but both are usable if yours are shot or missing.

#3279 2 years ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Looking for some plastics for Jungle Queen/princess. Does anyone have some available?
Thanks!

Here you go.
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Jungle_Princess.html

2 weeks later
#3331 2 years ago
Quoted from SadSack:

I have a lockbar off a jungle queen. I'd have to confirm the width. $40 shipped CONUS.

That will not work. It is the shark fin style. He needs the button style.

1 week later
#3379 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphod:

Looking for a top arch for a mid-late seventies Gottlieb EM.
Why does the arch not appear in the Gottlieb parts catalog? Aprons of each type shown but no top arch? Though they do not seem to very - my Mibs 'LOOKS' the same as my Vulcan and Lucky Hand.

Incorrect comment retracted.

#3382 2 years ago
Quoted from 1974DeltaQueen:

Mike I disagree, the top arch varies game to game, the pre drilled holes for the rebound rubber bracket are not all in the same spot. I thought the same thing until I went to swap one out and was amazed at how there are more than a few spots those pre-drilled holes can be in.
I do have an upper arch, from a 1977 Bronco, PM if interested. 15 plus shipping. I will gladly measure the rebound bracket holes. The certificate is ok is missing one corner.

I heard mid arch, not top arch, when I responded. He said mid-70s. You are correct in that the rebound bracket holes can be different.

2 weeks later
#3410 2 years ago

You mean have it nickle plated.

4 weeks later
#3465 2 years ago

Looking for late 60's/early 70's Gottlieb webbed AAB instruction card holder with the lit recessed pockets for instruction and score cards.

#3466 2 years ago

Looking for original Kings & Queens instruction card.

#3473 2 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Anything different on this one? Is there a credit hole?

Yes, there is a credit hole. It is for a Pop A Card. The one I have is passable. It's just that most of the webbing has been washed off.

#3483 2 years ago
Quoted from waltrr:

Hi Mike,
I only have the set in my Kings and Queens but I can scan them for you if you'd like.
I'm guessing you already tried, but I've gotten a few different ones from Steve too.

Thanks for the offer, Walt. I'm looking for original cards for my all original K&Q.

I can always download the repros from Inkochnito's website if need be.

1 week later
#3489 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballbrian:

Hi gang.have you tried making plastic pieces.and making the stickers at office depot.using the clear mylar.just made a plastic center piece for williams full house.need a decent backglass!!.anyone have a good used one.? Please pm me.thanks.

You could just buy what you need.
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Full_House.html

4 weeks later
#3558 2 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

EDIT: Oh, there's a pg. 72 with this already answered........

This is page 72.

1 week later
#3577 2 years ago
Quoted from aahgo:

If you haven't tried to clean them yet, you should, but with caution. I use something like Novus 2, on a clean white rag and carefully clean around the numbers. If you clean the numbers themselves, you may remove the paint. I usually clean around them and then take a light final swipe across the face to remove any surface dirt. They should clean up okay, as long as the drag mark is not actually worn in.

To add here the paint is usually colorfast so you shouldn't have to worry about losing paint but still be careful. Novus 2 works great. And if you have some scratches in the numbers you can touch up with a black enamel paint pen.

The reels themselves can be delicate so don't press too hard or you can actually bend them. From your picture these should clean up fine.

#3578 2 years ago

Looking for original instruction cards for Williams Trade Winds and Williams Space Ship.

Scan or photo of Space Ship cards would also be acceptable/appreciated.

I'm aware of Inkochnito's repro card for Trade Winds.

1 month later
#3645 2 years ago

Need three score reels, just the reels themselves, from late 50’s/early 60’s Williams game. The metal style.

Also need one A-5583 Drive Pawl Assy from this same era score reel.

CC4A4257-B65F-4D98-8269-F18523DD30BB (resized).jpeg

1 month later
#3681 2 years ago

Need 60’s era rollover button switch blade for 61 Williams Trade Winds. For a normally open switch configuration. Here is the part from the 1964 Williams parts catalog.

A Gottlieb part could be made to work.

CB545A46-90B4-4985-9C90-780616CD8B7C (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#3700 1 year ago
Quoted from HD_Fatboy:

I am probably having wishful thinking here, but I need a Chicago score reel plastic cam and dogs that are under the score reel for there pitch and bat TV Baseball. other pitch and bats around 65 and 66 should be the same.

If I'm not mistaken the score reels may be the same for the CC baseballs as for the CC pinballs. I needed a score reel for a 1967 CC Bullseye Baseball and a score reel from a 1966 CC Hula Hula pinball worked.

1 month later
#3849 1 year ago

Looking for a Gottlieb siamese playfield post in white/off white.

PBR has them in clear and red but would prefer the white/off white to match the rest of the game.

Like the one on the right in the picture.

1FDB1504-DFF0-43FE-911F-228419AF3EA3 (resized).jpeg

#3854 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Has anybody reproduced this Williams trademark for the coindoor? waterslide decal or regular decal? anybody have a more complete image? maybe I'll do a waterslide...

I need three of these if they are around or if you find a way to reproduce them.

2 weeks later
#3877 1 year ago
Quoted from Electrocute:

Needed. Lockdown bar for a 1976 Gottlieb Volley. My Atlantis, Spin Out and Sky Jump use the same lockdown bar. Thanks!

So how was the condition on this Volley? Are you happy?

When I saw the homemade wood lockdown bar in the CL listing here in KC it made me do a face palm. Other than that it looked like a decent example.

#3879 1 year ago
Quoted from Electrocute:

Only complaint is one of the drop targets broke off after my 5th or 6th game.

Bummer on the drop target. I try to keep with all original drop targets in my Gottlieb games. So they will survive I always double ring where they can take straight on hits from the flippers. The double rings provide more resistance to flexing/breaking from hard ball hits. They also keep the ball from pushing up into the plastics.

Where the drop target banks are on the sides and take more glancing blows from the ball I don't worry about doubling the rubber rings.

With new plastics and new drop targets I don't worry about the double rings. Both are more durable and should withstand any abuse they get.

#3885 1 year ago

Looking for playfield plastics for Williams Big Daddy. Or good scans so I can make my own.

#3890 1 year ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

What does something like that cost to have chromed? What kind of place does that work? Sorry for the dumb question -- wouldn't know where to go here in SA to have someone chrome parts.

Originally that wasn't chrome plated. Only nickel plated. As has been explained to me nickel plating is the last step before applying chrome plating.

To me chrome plating always looks out of place on a pinball, especially EM pinball.

In the past I used and recommended Mike Chestnut be he is no longer with us. Someone has picked up where he left off I believe. Others will point you to sources for nickel plating.

#3907 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I need... a 70's shooter gauge... I could redo one of my webbed gauges but TPF is around the corner and I need a non webbed gauge for a showcase JetSpin
Thanks

None of these are perfect. Is one good enough?

3EFFBD8F-4E95-4010-8248-CBEABEF1265E (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#3937 1 year ago
Quoted from hoov:

I just tore down a Captain Card playfield and it's missing a 3" lane guide (one side cut off).
I'd like to get a used one that will blend with the other lane guides and playfield posts on this game. (PBR's are a bright white and I don't care for the new color).

Dave,

How’s this?

07A88C46-559F-4C90-8F1F-CCD47CEEF6F4 (resized).jpeg

#3938 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I need a female 2x12 jones plug, 24 pin...
Thanks
Ken

Do you need it before TPF or should I mail it before then?

#3955 1 year ago

Need two passive bumper caps like these for World Fair. I know I can get new from PBR but they would be the only new plastics on the playfield and was hoping for original to keep a consistent appearance.

EBD971A3-FCD0-48F5-9A2E-A4329ECA994E (resized).jpeg

#3957 1 year ago
Quoted from paintpins:

I'd think you could decal these.
I also have other caps at http://WWW.PRESERVATIONPINBALL.COM

Thanks for the offer. Don't want to decal.

#3961 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Ive got a couple from a Friendship7 that just say "Advance" yer welcome to

My bad. I asked for the wrong cap. Turns out I have what I need. Thanks.

#3973 1 year ago

Looking for decent or better backglass for Gottlieb Egghead.

#3983 1 year ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

You'd probably want to replace the caps (PBR sells them).

While PBR did sell these in the past, these have been out of stock for some time.

#3993 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

The "Steve" suggests he will have them back in stock in July

Good to know. That "Steve" guy is OK in my book.

#3996 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

If you get past the first impression he is a wealth of information and has some of the most obscure parts when you need them.
He is ok in my book as well.

Got past any issues with Steve 20 years ago.

It’s old home week if I ever need to call and get Steve on the phone.

#4004 1 year ago
Quoted from bkbirge:

Nice, thanks for the tip, I'll put that auction on my watch list. So I'm guessing new guides are unobtainium? Seems like an enterprising 3d printer owner could make some side money.

Yes, they would. The most challenging part is making the 3D Cad file.

#4007 1 year ago
Quoted from MarkG:

That would certainly simplify things, but sadly I don't think that's the case. Sky Jump used these parts in the ball count unit:
Gear & Shaft: A-11669
Disc: B-15004
Wiper: B-9998
Games that include that same combination include
High Hand
Sky Jump
Top Card
Atlantis
El Dorado
Spin Out
Abra Ca Dabra
Sure Shot
Buccaneer
Volley
Jacks Open
Big Hit
Centigrade 37
Whether other ball count units could be adapted I don't know. But these are the only games I found with the same set of three part numbers.
/Mark

There should be wedgeheads earlier than High Hand that have the same configuration. Would need to look at an older parts catalog to define which games would be a match. Unfortunately I don't have access to an older parts catalog at the moment.

#4015 1 year ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

let me work on that....

Jeff,

Bob Langelius above also offered to create the 3D image if someone has a physical part he can model it from.

Mike

#4025 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballFever:

Is there a part # for JITB coin mechanisms?
I have two that might be from the JITB I recently sold and one of them has D-52-3-10 and 61056 stamped in ink on the sides.

JITB was probably quarters only then so you probably have two quarter mechs. Not sure if Gottlieb gave them a part number.

3 weeks later
#4079 1 year ago
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:

Sorry if this isn't an entirely kosher use of the thread, but here's a "what parts to I need?" question instead.
Working on a 1971 Gottlieb Playball. Went to clean switches in the reset bank and realized that the main arm was only connected on one side.
The shoulder bolt on the side closest to the coil is completely missing. No bolt, no washers, no nut - no nothing.
I have no idea how this thing was actually resetting and allowing me to play.
Anyway - here's a picture of the hardware on the side that had it. It's a shoulder bolt, two washers between the arm and frame of the bank, with a nut and lock washer on the inside.

I assume there should be a matching set of hardware on the other side? Silly question perhaps, but I would like to repair this right.
I see that PBR sells the shoulder bolts, but I'm going to feel like an idiot if I have to place a third order this month. Anyone know of a brick and mortar retail source that would carry such a specific bolt?

You can take the shoulder bolt out and compare it to the parts that your local Ace Hardware or True Value will have. Go to the specialty drawers and search. They often have shoulder bolts. You may not get a hex head. More probably a socket head cap shoulder bolt. But as long as the shaft length is similar you should be able to make it work.

#4081 1 year ago
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:

Silly, but I didn't even think of Ace. Tried a Menards and Home Depot last night with no luck.
Thanks for the pointer.
edit - one trip to Ace later.... Not as pretty - but does the job just fine.

That's what I had in mind. I assume they didn't have one with a shorter shaft. Nonetheless, it works.

You can always get the correct part from PBR on your next order if you need it to stay original.

For what it's worth I replaced the pivot on the slingshot mechanism on a Cirqus Voltaire with a similar appropriately sized cap head socket shoulder bolt many many years ago. The swaged pin broke from the frame and this part did the trick. For what it's worth CV had a funky design that they used for the slingshot mech that I haven't seen on any other WPC game. But I digress.

#4085 1 year ago
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:

You can't make this stuff up.
Been having an issue with a particular relay along the side of the motor board. Removed the cotter pin holding it in place and worked on it for a bit. Went to put it back in and dropped the pin. Of course it took a bounce and slid under the motor board out of reach. Grabbed the greatest tool in the history of man - the extending magnet stick thing and began fishing for it.
Got the cotter pin in a few seconds, but thought to myself "It sure felt like I tapped something else under there." Magnet fishing expedition two... and I think you know where this is going.

I like how in pinball all the evidence, loose parts in your instance, always end up in the bottom of the body cabinet.

And there is no way you would have found that part had you not already sourced the shoulder bolt from the hardware store.

1 month later
#4235 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Need (1) Far Out / Out of Sight drop target, otherwise I'll have to replace them all (since a new one won't match)! Anyone?

In case you can’t find an original, surprisingly, the new yellow drop targets are a damn close match to the originals.

#4243 1 year ago

Looking for decent used Egghead backglass.

1 month later
#4359 1 year ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Does anyone have these two Gottlieb mechs? There are grooves worn into mine and they're now completely useless. The springs associated with them would also be amazing! Thanks!

This will have what you need and then some and appears to be in good unworn condition.
ebay.com link » Credit Or Replay Unit Stepper Gottlieb Jungle More Pinball Machine

1 month later
#4417 1 year ago

Looking for one or two used decent condition Surfer/Surf Champ drop targets.

#4420 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I can send you a couple
[quoted image]

Thanks, Ken.

3 weeks later
#4456 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I need a ball sausage to a Williams Heatwave... or did all these get broken?
[quoted image]

If it's a Williams game, yes, they are all broken. Gottlieb, on the other hand, appear to hold up better.

3 weeks later
#4470 1 year ago
Quoted from 1974DeltaQueen:

I need a plastic for a Fire Queen / Vulcan upper drop target bank / bonus alley towards the center
Willing to buy a full set

Full set here.
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Fire_Queen.html

3 weeks later
#4507 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Dang! Mounting the hardware on my rechromed coin plate to a Williams Heatwave I broke off a stud that mounts the little plate. Anybody got a spare stud they could send me?
[quoted image]

Ken - the simplest thing to do for this would be to take a screw of the same thread size and just grind the head down so it looks like the button head of the original. Then polish the head of all of them.

1 month later
#4604 12 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Heres what i did with a water slide decal but the light doesnt shine through bright enough.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Is there a way to position a tube between the lamp and the backside of the credit display? That might help focus the light more on the credit display.

#4606 12 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Its funny you asked that because i was trying that route. I wasnt seeing a difference. Went to autozone and got a few different bulbs but the 63 still shines the brightest. Only have 5.5 volts to work with. I wanted to try using a super bright LED flasher but i dont think its got enough voltage in the socket. Still tinkering. I mean it looks good with the lights off but i really want to get this to be able to compete with the rest of scores in the backbox. My next idea is a different colored bulb so the number isnt white. Might see it better with a red number on a white screen instead of white on white.

If you can find an LED that will operate on the same voltage it will work fine. LEDs take notably less current to run and shine notably brighter so you should have no issue.

#4615 11 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

need a 24v game counter. Then new ones I find are 12v dc, no good

Where would a 24v version come from? I assume not a Gottlieb game or you wouldn’t be asking.

3 months later
#4944 8 months ago
Quoted from boilerman:

i am thinking he is taking abouth these, but the are available as far as i know
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18469
[quoted image]

The ball gate on El Dorado is different.
This is what he needs but PBR says they are out.
http://www.pbresource.com/gtbsd/gtb-a15550.jpg

1 week later
#4959 8 months ago
Quoted from Raff:

I am after a left and right bar that sits inside the target banks of a Big Shot its the bar you need to make the specials come on both left and right is broken.Even if i can just get a part number and name of this part or if you have them and want to sell them send me a pm thanks.
Raff

It is called a Series Bar. The part number for a seven bank is A-14335.

If the pieces are there of the original it could be possible to weld them back together.

It is worth asking PBR if they have them.

1 week later
#4993 7 months ago

Looking for early to mid 60’s Williams button style lockdown bar. Like in these pictures.

901802A4-DDD4-43D8-974E-D5691618D83E (resized).jpeg0616EBE3-A3BB-44B3-ACBA-960C91877358 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#5005 7 months ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Anybody have a good condition chrome top arch (the one that sits under the white top arch) for a Gottlieb? I’m looking to upgrade the one on the 1975 Top Score I’m restoring. It’s in pretty bad shape.

I had Mike Chestnut replate some of these before he passed. So they are salvagable. He charged about $35 plus shipping. I suspect the guy that picked up the torch will do the same or similar. If you go that route have it nickel plated, not chrome plated. The original was only nickel plated and nickel plating is the step prior to chrome plating so may be a bit cheaper.

1 month later
#5107 6 months ago

Looking for original blue ringed pop bumper body for center pop bumper for Quick Draw.

I know I can get one from PBR but prefer an original to go with the other original pop bumper parts in this game.

Similar to the red ones in this picture, but blue.

AFF91143-C65B-442A-9B00-89753B0F76EC (resized).jpeg
#5117 6 months ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Mike, how’s this one? I think this actually came off one of the Quick Draw‘s I restored. There’s nothing wrong with it, and I think it would clean up really well. I just put all new ones in the game I restored.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s exactly what Im looking for and will match the rest of the parts on this game.

I’ll send a PM with my info.

1 week later
#5133 6 months ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

Unfortunately, I need the L bracket.
Darrin

I have a spare Gottlieb L bracket I could send you.

Send me a PM with your mailing address.

3 weeks later
#5190 5 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

pbr will sell you the door and trim. Im not sure what you mean by "acceptor"?

I think he means the coin bezel plate which PBR also sells.

#5198 5 months ago

Looking for an original cowboy drop target for Quick Draw or Fast Draw.

Thanks.

#5234 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I have a 1976 Williams AZTEC. I am in need of the clear plastic curved piece that is at the upper right top of the kickback lane the ball follows around after being kicked out where the 2 lights are. There is a top graphic piece then a lower clear piece. I need the lower clear piece. If anyone has one or knows where I can find one I would greatly appreciate it. I can probably make one but if there is an NOS part out there for sale I would like to go that route. I have included a pic of the part I am talking about.

It's possible you may find an original replacement but they won't be that common, much less NOS.

Making one isn't that hard to do. I use a sanding drum attachment I got at Harbor Freight that chucks into my cordless drill. Once you have the plastic kind of close to the pattern the sanding drum quickly takes care of the rest. Pretty easy really.

1 month later
#5400 3 months ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

I’d be interested in those if you are looking to sell , gets me halfway there and it won’t bother me if the the back legs are not as nice as the front . I will be finishing up with the cabinet painting next week and I’d like to get it up on some legs so I can start re assembling the cabinet . I know I’m going to need other parts for this game also I know other stuff is missing.

How about a three way deal? I have a couple of extra decent Gottlieb 27” legs that I would trade for a couple of 31” Gottlieb legs.

1 month later
#5507 67 days ago
Quoted from SadSack:

[quoted image][quoted image]

That is the correct bar for King Rock.

Yes, that is an excellent price.

Don't worry about the appearance. The outer is stainless steel and will brush/polish out well. I use a flapper wheel these days which cleans it up in minutes. Without one 150 grit sandpaper will clean it up nicely. Follow up with 400 or 600 grit if you want a more refined finish.

#5528 63 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Good luck. I've been looking for one for ages!

You could always buy one of Lee and Gordon's decals and refinish your original holder.
http://pinballrescue.net/Decals_Apron_Gottlieb.html

It is a great product.

#5530 63 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

That’s exactly what I have. It came out great. I just wish it had the webbing.[quoted image]

I've had to buy and sell a whole game to get a decent original instruction card holder for a keeper game.