I'm looking for a few old style EM white pop bumper bodies (with the open sides) and a 1" round violet with marbled white insert as shown below. Both are for a Gottlieb game but other manufacturers might work.

Thanks,

/Mark

Old_PB_Body_sm_(resized).jpg

If you can't find a replacement, you can probably repair the one you have. I've had good luck attaching shims to both broken pieces with epoxy to hold them together. In other words, use a new backing piece to hold the two broken pieces together. You might even be able to cut out a duplicate (with extra room for the existing snow shoe contacts) and epoxy it to the back of what you have if you can find three screws that are a little longer to hold the repaired wiper in place. PBR has the fiber material if you want to use that.

/Mark

I had broken red guides on my Dancing Dolls. Figuring I'd never find them, I went for the polished stainless guides offered by PBR. Look for MAT-SHIELD at:

http://pbresource.com/news.html

or see a photo at:

http://pbresource.com/toolbox/mat-shield-01.jpg

You need to cut them to length, but they're better than the broken ones I had.

/Mark

I'm looking for a green bumper from a flipperless '39 Bally Champion. The bumper is a little smaller than modern bumpers, has a metal skirt and four posts (2 of which are threaded) that go down through the playfield. There's also a metal clip hanging on the back of the bumper that I think was to keep the ball from hanging up on the back of the bumper. The yellow one below is actually mounted below the playfield. Haven't figured out why yet...

front view
back view
bottom view

Any leads or suggestions?

I'm also looking for old (50s) or obscure (Chicago Coin, United, Genco, Playmatic, Sega, etc.) EM pinball parts catalogs and other technical information for sale or for trade.

I'm just getting started in looking so for the short term I'll hold out for a good match. I have found someone with something similar but not quite right that I could probably work with if I don't find the right one. I tried a modern bumper for size just to see how it fit. It fits in the hole, but the screw and socket holes don't line up, and it's bigger than the original:

DSCN7681sm (resized).jpg

I'm not familiar with the fusion paint for plastic. I'll have to read up on that. Thanks for the tip.

/Mark

Here's one from a '59 Williams Pinch Hitter. It has a 5 1/2" metal score reel, but the frame looks like yours I think. PM me if you think this is what you need.

WilliamsScoreReel (resized).jpg

I could use one too if you find a source. Failing that you can put a couple of washers under either set of screws that hold the relay to the flash unit frame. (There are two screws that hold the relay frame to the Z bracket, and another two that hold the Z bracket to the flash unit frame.) That will slide the brake out a little and move the notch out from under the teeth. Here's a closer look:

_MG_0621sm (resized).jpg

If you look closely you can see the washers and the notch moved out a bit. Note that you may need slightly longer screws if you add washers.

To my surprise, I couldn't find Vulcan in the parts lists of the '78, '80 or '82 Gottlieb parts catalogs (*). The '78 catalog does cover games from Jungle Life through Super Spin and reveals a pattern in the parts numbers for the Player Unit Wiper which is what you're looking for. In the '78 catalog at least all the 4 player games use a player unit wiper with part number B-12566, while all the 2 player games use a B-12568.

While I can't prove it, it seems likely that the wiper from any mid-70s 4 player Gottlieb game (like the Bronco above) would work for you.

/Mark

(*) For extra credit, does anyone know if there are Parts List tables for Vulcan or any of the Gottlieb EM games after Super Spin?

Good point. I've had good luck too repairing fiber disks if it's just the fiber board that's broken. You can reinforce the repair by gluing a shim on the back of the wiper to cover the break. Old fiber flipper links would be a good option. Here's an example:
Disc repair (resized).jpg

Is this the right score reel?

1969 Chicago Coin Catalog (resized).jpg

/Mark

Sorry, no. I thought it might help those who have unidentified score reels in their stashes.

/Mark

I'm looking for a good deal on a bunch of 24v EM relays and maybe some stand up targets for a class I'm putting together. Extra credit if I can pick them up at TPF next week to save on shipping. PM me with details of what you have, and thanks.

That would certainly simplify things, but sadly I don't think that's the case. Sky Jump used these parts in the ball count unit:
Gear & Shaft: A-11669
Disc: B-15004
Wiper: B-9998

Games that include that same combination include
High Hand
Sky Jump
Top Card
Atlantis
El Dorado
Spin Out
Abra Ca Dabra
Sure Shot
Buccaneer
Volley
Jacks Open
Big Hit
Centigrade 37

Whether other ball count units could be adapted I don't know. But these are the only games I found with the same set of three part numbers.

/Mark

There are older games that use some of the parts. Hi-Lo for example from '69 uses the same Gear & Shaft and Wiper, but it's the Disc (B-15004) on Sky Jump that was first used in High Hand as far as I can tell.

If you have all of the pieces I've had pretty good luck gluing pot metal back together with JB Weld. Since the casting is concave you can add a thick layer to the inside and add things like strips of metal or nails across the cracks for reinforcement. You'll need to find a way to hold the pieces in place while the JB Weld sets up. For extra thickness you can add multiple layers, scoring the dry layer before adding the new wet layer so it has something to bite into.

/Mark

I'd like to learn more. How much do you need to buy at a time, shelf life, working time, tips, hazards, etc. Maybe that deserves its own topic on pot metal repair?

Sorry, I don't have any spares but they do look just like the globes on my '39 Bally Champion (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1939-bally-champion) so it seems likely that they were used on other games too.

Excellent summary. Thanks.

The coil part number is shown in your photo. If you can determine how long your plunger is that should help identify a replacement which is probably available from the standard sources. And for reassembly, here's some info from the '69 Chicago Dynamic Industries (Chicago Coin) parts catalog:
Chicago Coin large bell (resized).jpg
/Mark

The Recel parts catalog shows a Vari Target that looks an awful lot like the Gottlieb Vari Target. I think they used Gottlieb parts. (Anyone know for sure?)

Vari Targets use a relay to hold and release the target.
Details and video here: www.funwithpinball.com/small-boards-page-2#VariTarget
Vari Targets (resized).jpg
Anyway, your 9500 coil was used in the Recel Vari Target. Gottlieb used an A-9740 in theirs. If you can't find a 9500, an A-9740 might be worth a try.

/Mark

Could it be one of these? Maybe U-273?
1947_Chicago_Coin_Catalog (resized).jpg
This is from the 1947 Chicago Coin Parts catalog. This and others are available at http://funwithpinball.com/resources/parts-catalog-list

/Mark

I think finding a spare Bow and Arrow Flasher Unit wiper will take some time. There may be some options though.

According to the parts catalog (http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1976/index.html#/110/) all of the Bally Flasher units used the same wiper so a wiper from any Flasher unit from Sky Rocket, 4 Million BC, Fireball, Space Time, Time Zone or Bow and Arrow should work.

Even that may be hard to find though so another approach may be necessary. The Flasher unit wiper comes apart to reveal 5 individual wipers stacked up on the hub. (Picture a lollipop with a hole in the middle - that's what one wiper looks like.) And the Flasher contact board has contacts in just the outer of three available rings of holes in the board. I can't prove it but I bet that other (maybe all?) Bally steppers have the same three rings of holes and the same kinds of stackable wipers. If you can find a Bally stepper that uses the outer ring of contacts you might be able to use one of the longest wiper blades from that stepper.

Beware that the wiper assembly has a hub with a notch in it and all of the individual wipers are keyed so they don't slide around the hub. If you find a few replacement wipers of the right length you might get lucky and one of them will be keyed correctly. But even if none of them are, modifying a wiper so it keys into the correct position shouldn't be too hard.

PM me if I need to explain this better.

/Mark

A lot of those discs have shrunk and warped. I wonder if you could print out the number band on clear adhesive vinyl or mylar and stick it to a new plexi or acrylic disc?

Nice work. Are you sure you have the right bulb? I've seen 87 and 1129 bulbs used in projection units.

Nice reproduction.

Just to compare bulbs:
63: 7.0 Volts, 0.63, Amps, 4.41 Watts
87: 6.8 Volts, 1.91 Amps, 12.988 Watts
1127: 6.4 Volts, 2.63 Amp, 16.832 Watt

So your reproduction may be just fine with a brighter bulb. Try auto parts stores if you just want one or two.
Also, I'm assuming there's still a lens in the projection unit somewhere. That would make a difference too.

From the '66 catalog, pg 33:
Push Button Switch Link Assembly
A-4263 All 5 Ball Cabinets, Right or Left Side
(other part numbers shown for multiple player cabinets...)

That seems like something you should be able to have made by someone with a lathe. Maybe at your local maker space? Things I'd love to have: a lathe and the skills to use it.

/Mark

The catalog shows that there are two varieties: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1974-1975/index.html#/44/

You may need to figure out which one you have.

/Mark

I'm curious why they installed a pair of 3" bells rather than just wire up whatever drives them to one 3" bell. Maybe the two bells have a slightly different tone, but it seems like a luxury.

Seems like a good candidate for 3D printing...

/Mark

If you can't find an original, you can repair yours by squaring off the broken part along the straight lines of the triangles, then splicing in a matching piece from a reproduction part like this:
Final Fit 5079 (resized).jpg
It takes a little work but would be much less noticeable than a reproduction part.

/Mark

Here are some of the steps. I wrote it up in Gameroom magazine ages ago I think.

Repair sequence (resized).jpg

I don't know how much of the schematic would be common with Twin Hockey but there's an All Start Hockey schematic on my website at:
https://www.funwithpinball.com/resources/all-star-hockey

Is that an All Star Hockey in your photo just behind the Twin Hockey?

I think this is the one:
Gottlieb Small Step Switch (resized).jpg
I had one in similar shape:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spot-bowler-100000-stepper-problem#post-4323524
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spot-bowler-100000-stepper-problem#post-4325502

The knocker should be easy. The Match Unit on the other hand will need some research unless you can find one from another Sky Jump.

Sky Jump uses an AS (mini stepper) relay for the 00-90 or Match Unit. The relay has a D-8755 nylon spindle, A-9016 and A-9017 pc boards mounted on either side, and a B-9015 wiper on each side. This same arrangement was used in many games as early as '69 Target Pool and as late as '77 Jet Spin. The range may be even wider. The good news is that there are lots of AS relays out there.

The bad news is that AS relays came in several configurations so identifying which games used the same configuration would be important. The pc boards may be labeled so keep an eye out for that. More bad news is that AS relays usually come with one or two jones plugs so they can be removed from the game for cleaning or adjustment. I don't know how you would tell if those jones plugs are wired the same. (Does anyone know?) You could scour some schematics to see if the wire colors are the same but I don't know if Gottlieb documented their jones plugs wiring the way that Bally did for example. So while you might find the same AS relay configuration there's a chance that the jones plugs could be wired differently.

Any AS relay with the same boards and wipers could be made to work in a Sky Jump but there may be some hidden work to rewire it if the jones plugs don't match.

I did a little more digging and compared three games using similar AS relays:
Sky Jump AS relay (resized).jpg
The parts catalog shows that Jet Spin uses the same AS relay parts as Sky Jump, but the schematics show that the wire colors are slightly different. Target Alpha uses the same AS relay pc boards and wipers but adds a pair of cams on the spindle so there are 2 extra switches which means more wires through the jones plugs so they're definitely incompatible. Different wire colors too.

No way to know how the wires are routed through the jones plugs for any of them.

No, just the two discs. See the relay chart in reply 5979.

Looks like a Chicago Coin 143-801 Nylon Operating Arm (from the 1969 Chicago Coin Parts Catalog.)
Chicago Coin catalog page 1 (resized).jpg
This and other parts catalogs are available at https://www.funwithpinball.com/resources/parts-catalog-list

/Mark

Could you make pins with rivets, or short pieces of steel rod or maybe even a thick coat hanger? Pieces of a snug fitting hose, heat shrink tubing or hot glue might work as end caps.

/Mark

There are several pages that address Aladdin's Castle. Looking for anything in particular?

Hmm. Doesn't look like it. From the 1966 Williams parts catalog:
WmsParts1966pg74sm (resized).jpg
/Mark

PBR has a nice off brand (Bruswick) shooter rod on their Specials page, part # K-55-101764-003. It might not be appropriate for a purist but it's harmless and works well.

These can often be repaired. See:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-em-seeking-parts-thread/page/69#post-3850955
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-em-seeking-parts-thread/page/69#post-3851169

Or, if you do replace it, offer it to someone who might repair it.

/Mark

Isn't that just a standard Tee Nut?

From the 1978 Williams Parts Catalog:
Williams 1977 catalog 12 step unit (resized).jpg
/Mark

In the short term you might be able to rearrange the switch stacks to use the undamaged slots in the actuator. That may require new or different switch stack screws and/or spacers but it wouldn't be a hard thing to do.

Is this the lifter? It's from the '59 Williams parts catalog.
Williams_Parts_Catalog_1959 pg27 (resized).jpg
There is a newer lifter that started with '59 Tic Tac Toe.

That seems to break often. I believe what you need is shown at:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-em-seeking-parts-thread/page/142#post-6009699

and is available at:

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2208&search=ratchet&description=true

Sounds right.
Gottlieb 58 catalog small step switch (resized).jpg

Do you mean the Zero Position switches? One is yellow-blue to slate-white. The other is yellow+blue to slate-yellow.

The 15th position switch is maroon-orange to yellow+red.

Sounds like a job for Peter at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/inkochnitos-pinball-score-and-instruction-cards-website-update. I think he has other score reel files.

Any idea how you ended up with a set of white score reels? Could it be a sample or other low production game?

Don't dawdle:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-rescue-closing-down

You can often repair them if you're handy:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hearts-and-spades-always-a-ball-short#post-4519175

Edit: p.s. Consider adding your serial number to http://ipsnd.net/View.aspx?id=1078

I don't know. You'll have to let us know. A 100-140W soldering gun should work.

The issue isn't whether the stick can get hot enough. It's whether the stick can keep the solder and all other surfaces hot enough long enough.

Most solder will fill the gap and look good for a while, but will wear away because it's too soft. Silver solder is harder than most and will hold up better.

Are the balls worn, or just dirty? I think they clean up with Novus 2.

Missing teeth are often intentional. They're mechanical limits to how far the stepper can advance which might be appropriate for a Ball Count unit.

/Mark

That might be because the advance solenoid fires, and the advance arm reaches out and pulls back over the missing tooth. But instead of grabbing the next tooth the arm just drags across the gap. Knowing that the stepper can't mechanically advance past a certain point may have allowed the designer to leave out a limit switch that would have kept the advance solenoid from firing. You'd need to check the schematic to be sure.

If you reassemble the Ball Count Unit can you manually advance it to the correct number of balls? And can you not manually advance it past that point?

The missing tooth would make it fail to advance past a certain point, not advance too far. Perhaps you should start a new topic to troubleshoot that.

I think this is the one:
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/index.php?route=product/search&search=10A-323

For reference here are the three part numbers Steve references above in the small step unit, replay or credit unit and player unit:
Gottlieb stepper solenoid bracket (resized).jpg

For Amusement Only might still have some. http://foramusementonly.to/

Beware that while Flasher Units were used in at least half a dozen games, they're not all the same. There were at least three different versions used with different motors and contact boards. Unfortunately Bow and Arrow used unique parts. You might find one but I'd research fixing the one you have if possible too. More info at https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/wddl/#p=110

If you can't find score reels the arms are 3D printable (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1316469). You'd need to transfer the wipers to the new arms.

/Mark

The Match or F/00-90 Unit relay on Card Whiz is an AS type relay stepper with two wiper boards (2 DISC) and two normally open switches (2A):
Card Whiz F relay (resized).jpg
While AS relays are common they come in slightly different configurations. On Card Whiz there are two switches between the boards that are activated by a cam that alternates with each step (1: 1). Other games might use other kinds of switches or cams that alternate with other patterns. If you do find one from another game you'll want to double check the wiring at the jones plugs. While some of the wire colors may be the same I don't know if the wiring through the jones plug was consistent from game to game.

Beware that they are not generic. The '76 catalog lists many different ball count wipers for 70s single player games including B-15004 for Abra Ca Dabra. They might be the same for single player replay games but you might want to double check.

Everyone who works on Gottlieb EMs needs one sooner or later:

http://pbresource.com/news/gtb-a1058.jpg

Fun fact: Gottlieb part numbers are basically sequential. A part number like 16xxx was probably first used in the mid 1970s so it's unlikely to have been used on King of Diamonds.

Ladder chain. Used in player pianos and other devices that turn sprockets.

Flippers.com has you covered:
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/pinball-game-parts-c-5/williams-c-5_36/spring-p-4815.html

Tell John that Mark says Hi.

I believe that PBR sells blank metal shields that you can cut to length.

Have you tried https://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/?

I think John at flippers.com sold out of the assembly (https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/ratchet-armature-assy-p-2208.html) but he might still have the armature (https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/armature-plate-assembly-p-5568.html). Part numbers are at https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/zlqw/#p=12

If you don't find a replacement this might help: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nylon-ratchet-wheel-repair-on-bonus-unit.
I vaguely recall someone else doing something similar after putting a short steel pin in the old tooth before building up the new tooth around it.

There's a picture in the manual that would be a good starting point for a mask if someone wanted to remake the board.

I'm looking for a pair of pop bumper assemblies from below the playfield (in red):
Pop Bumper parts needed (resized).jpg
Just the coil, brackets, plunger, spring and yokes. Gottlieb is preferred but 24 volt Williams might work too. I know all this stuff is likely available new but the game probably isn't worthy of new parts.

I'm converting what was someone's parts game back to working order. It's not a restoration, just a repair. It has no backglass or legs and the playfield is trashed. But I've got it working and want to sell it cheap to someone who's new to the hobby and wants to learn, or maybe someone who wants to retheme, etc. It'll never be a a trophy but it's too good to part out.

/Mark

IPDB.org could use a good scan of Big Daddy. Maybe someone who needs a copy could scan it for them. I don't need one but I'd be willing to scan and submit it.

From the Allied Leisure parts catalog:
Allied Liesure Drop Target (resized).jpg

Many of them are. Flippers.com and Planetary Pinball have had them. If you're lucky one of them may still.
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/ratchet-armature-assy-p-2208.html?search=A-7563-1

For this part:
https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/nwbm/#p=13

Other parts catalogs are catalogs at:
https://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK
https://www.funwithpinball.com/resources/parts-catalog-list

If you can't find the part two other options might be 3D printing the ladder, or replacing the entire relay with a more modern and reliable version.

I would determine how many switches of what type (normally open, normally closed, make/break, etc.) and contact size (small contact or large contact) you have on your existing relay. Then look for a used modern relay. If you want to match the coil number too check the schematics on IPDB for a few more contemporary games. Chances are the pop bumper relay from many (most?) games would be a drop in replacement.

It looks like the plunger for a manual ball lift mechanism like this one:
https://www.funwithpinball.com/exhibits/small-boards-page-2#BallLifter

There may be some leads at:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/chicago-coin-mini-baseball-sound-amplifier-405-300

It's in the manual and the playfield chart in the parts catalog:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/438/Capt_Fantastic.pdf

You could probably just bolt together a pair of #44 sockets like the one at the top of the page here:
https://www.pbresource.com/sockets.html

Or, print one:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5233929

Yeah, more voltage doesn't make those motors run faster, just hotter. It's the frequency (50 or 60 Hz) that matters.

I have some yellow ones that might work.

Yellow Score Reels (resized).jpg

I have one, and a few others. PM me for details.
Gottlieb 1964 Catalog (resized).jpg

Like this? https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/baseball-bat-03-8516

This might help:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-old-graphite-ring-bumper-system#post-5394279

I've also just discovered that they're available:
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/carbon-contact-ring-5022?_route_=carbon-contact-ring-5022

You might try: http://foramusementonly.to/Parts.html