Does anyone know where I can get the flat metal guide show in this picture? I contacted PBR and they said they don't have it. This is on a Jacks Open. It's not in terrible shape but the metal isn't straight (looks like someone tried to "adjust" it and bent it a bit). If I could find a new one or one in better shape, I'd take it. It has the angle bend at the end of it as well.

Thanks,

Dave

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I'll openly admit that tapping this out to get it straight will likely result in it looking worse than it does.

I was surprised to find that PBR doesn't stock them as this seems like a part that was on a lot of games in that era.

If they aren't available then I guess I won't have a choice but to try and straighten it out. Is there a preferred method for doing that?

Dave

Hey Ryan, I had a similar problem to what you have and while it's not the prettiest solution, I took an "L" bracket and bolted it to the side of the chime box with the other part of the "L" being slight above the top of the metal chime. This allowed it to still vibrate but not be shot off of the box every time the coil fired. I had the game for quite a while without any issues. Unfortunately, I no longer own the game so I can't show you what it looks like but hopefully you get the idea.

Obviously, repairing the metal would be the way to go but I don't have the metallurgy skills to do it so I did the best I could with what I had.

Dave

You've correctly identified an "L" bracket as that's what I used. I just realized that you don't have a tub, which makes this solution a bit tougher to use. In mine, I had the tub, and was able to drill a small hole in the tub to but a bolt through and then put a nut on the other side. The top part of the bracket was over the top of the chime, effectively holding it down. I left a bit of space between the chime and the bracket so it could vibrate.

In your case, because you just have the support bracket, using an L bracket would be a bit tougher as you'd have to drill into the bracket. I still think it could work though if you could drill into the bracket and have the chime sit where it should. The other end of the L bracket would then be just above the broken mount. This would stop the chime from being able to come off the broken mount that you have.

What I'm not sure is if you'd have enough clearance between the metal bracket and the top of the chime. I really wish I still had the game that I put this fix into as a picture would definitely help.

Hopefully, you'll be able to find the parts you need to fix it.

I recently bought a Gottlieb World Series and one of the targets on the roto unit is busted off (it's one of the "single" ones). I've tried PBR, my local pinball salvage guys, Rick and pinball USA, etc. and can't seem to find one of these.

I figured I'd stop in here and see if anyone had a target or a roto unit that they'd want to move along.

If all else fails I'll make something that will do the trick but I'd rather have original if I could.

Thanks,

Dave

Awesome...PM sent and thank you!

Dave

Hoov thought correctly...I have found what I need. I love this place.

Dave

I just had to order replacements for a World Series that I had. PBR does not have them. I had to buy the flippers from Steve and order the stickers from whoever has them (I think they're in Australia). I agree with @dennisdodel, I think the originals were also stickers.

Dave

I'm working on a Gottlieb Spin Wheel ('68) and I have two score reels that have broken blades on the EOS switch. It seems that this part is not readily available at all of the usual places (including PBR) so I'm coming here to see if anyone has a source, or has a couple of these switches (or just the blades) laying around.

I see from my research that there is some disagreement about whether this switch is even needed. I generally fall into the "well, they put it there, it must have a function" camp so I'd like them to be there.

I suspect I'm going to have to fashion my own replacement blades but figured I'd check with the group first to see if anyone had any they'd be willing to let go. I need two but would take three if you have them (always like to have a spare, just in case).

Thanks,

Dave

I don't have a lot of spare parts in general and while I probably have some switch blades in a box somewhere, I'm guessing they're going to be too long to use in this case, without modifying them. I was thinking that if I couldn't find what I was looking for that I'd just trim an existing switch pair that I have and then drill the appropriate holes so I can put them in the stack. However, I'm not sure if the switch blades are a "standard" width or if blades from another relay or from a flipper stack are a different width. Ultimately, if I'm going to hack something to work, I'd like it to at least look close to original.

Let me measure the length of the blades from one of the score reels that has the switches still intact and I'll let you know what I come up with. Thanks for offering to help. I appreciate it.

Dave

ok, here are a couple of pictures showing a “good” switch set. Hopefully you’ve got something that will work as I now realize after looking at them that I’d need one blade to be a bit longer than the other but the contacts probably wouldn’t be far enough down the blade to allow that to work (if I were to use a longer set). Let me know if you any other information.

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boilerman that's a pretty nice offer and I will take you up on that. Can't beat getting the actual parts I need and all for the cost of shipping. I sent you a PM to work out the details.

Thanks,

Dave

I have a 72 Williams Line Drive and the last time I needed a replacement bat I was able to get one from pinball resource. It's not listed on their website but they did have them in 2010, which is when I ordered my replacement. Call or send an email and see if they have what you need. If not, if it's the same one that would be on my game, I think I might still have an extra one.