Got a friend looking for a complete cash box for his Volley. If any one has one they want to part with, let me know. Doesn't have to be nice and shinny, just shouldn't look like it was unearthed from the local dinosaur diggings.

Probably because the distributors over ordered them and that is what they had in stock to sell the operators. Not so much what Gott. may have had to sell them. I used to see the blue square 10 spinner from King Kool on all sorts of games it did not come with.

But as Dirt said, it probably took a lot of abuse and perhaps even Gottleib ran out of the proper one and more than likely, was not about to do another run of screening years after. So operators used what they could get.

Jungle was another one.

Anyone out there finished their Wade Fast/Quick Draw playfield swap and have a respectable used P/F they want to sell? As well as a used plastic set? I just picked up a real beater and would like to upgrade it a little. This one is badly planked at the bottom so it will wear fast (more than it already has). I know new Plastics are available from PBR but the rest of the game doesn't really deserve a brand new set.

I am not suggesting you buy this but am showing you it might expand your options. The flat style coin mech holders were very common for many years and as far as I know, the mount and hardware tended to line up the same. The ebay link is to a 2 slot midway door, common to something like Pacman or Ms Pacman. An old rusty one might have the parts you need for a fraction of the price.

ebay.com link: Original Bally Midway Coin Door Removed From Pacman Cabaret In Good Shape

They are also supposed to be doing an Online only auction with Super Auctions with the stuff getting listed on July 7th with the various items (Bingos, Slots, Jukes, Shuffle tables, Rolling stock) ending on various dates begining on July 27th.

I would think that by July 7th, if they commited them to Auction, they would no longer be available for on-site purchase.

Anyone have an orphan Gottlieb slide on cash box lid? Need one to fit the 8-1/4" X 11" Cashbox but will take one for an 8" X 10-5/8" one too.

Let me know. (within the US please).

RB

We actually did have one box delivered that you could tell it WAS run over by a truck tire. The PCB inside was split down the middle. No drop could do that!

With all the complaints about USPS, I still think they might be the better choice as there may be more human handling and less machine processing when it comes to boxes that can't be handled by the automated equipment.

Just my personal opinions based on personal experience.

ebay.com link: Gottlieb Haunted House Pinball playfield drop target assembly Black hole

Here is another well priced one:

ebay.com link: Gottlieb Pinball 5 bank drop target assy parts from SS Close Encounters

You may also want to call Steve Young at PBR and see if he has any New Old stock. There were a lot of those kind of things that came out of the closing of Premier.

What did Stern use for the "Skill Posts" for Europe? Were they rubber? Wasn't one used for the Fire Plug between the flippers on Fire!. I know WMS used the mini post in the 70's EM era (games like Super Star).

http://www.pbresource.com/rubber/wll-23-6623.jpg

Some of the earlier ones were "marblized" too. The new ones are not.

Email Steve Young a Photo at The Pinball Resource and let him look. He has a lot of parts that are not shown on the website. He built a lot of his inventory by buying out back rooms of old distributors.

allentown.craigslist.org link

The earlier ones were Nickel as I recall but many were probably converted to Quarter drop. Some were even triple coin (Nickel, Dime, Quarter).

They usually just sit rotting in warehouses as to some, their only redeeming value is the art of the backglass.

PM sent. Interested in the Flipper coil/mounting brackets and the 2 leaf switches with the fish paper attached.

Hope you can see the faint yellow circles in the attached photo.Gottlieb parts.jpg

What you have to do is remove the wood spacers that are tacked onto the back side of the front of the cabinet. Remove the playfield hangers as they are now part of the new slide.

Then comes the hardest part, you have to cut away a small amount (about 1/8" X 1/8") off the top front edge of the cabinet since the front lip of the slide has to sit in this.

I am not sure why he hasn't geared up to keep converting them due to the demand for them. I would expect if he does, he will charge a bit more than he used to.

Those $125+ Peg bars are why I keep bringing up my Shark Fin conversion. It may not be something you want to do to your prized keeper, but it is certainly a great option for saving a decent player's condition game that may not justify the higher expense.

And, it wasn't even for PinballGirl's college fund.

Cactus Jack's is a standard width game and would use a Lockdown Bar just like on a System 1 pin (or very late model EM).

And a mask!

But it really doesn't look right with all the Stainless Steel around it. And, if you do chrome the rest of the stuff, you end up with, as I believe Tim Arnold calls them, a Herb Silvers Chrome Whore. Which, I guess some people like.

Me, I prefer the original finish.

Sounds like the perfect part for 3D printing for someone with those talents.

You keep asking for the "Plate" but I think it is the down chutes that you want (the part that is sticking out of the face plates). These are what people are saying are nearly impossible to get since they get sheared off over time. And the newer 70's style are more common (more games junked).

I am not sure if it will work but you might be able to try the later style triangular face plate with the later model down chutes that don't stick out. Then, you would have to add some GI sockets to light up the plastic inserts.

Got lots of crudely painted ones from I think a goucho (entire roto parted for the blades). Shoot me your mailing address and I will pop 2 in the mail Monday. Not sure why you got down voted????

Whether a chime unit or 3 separate bell assemblies, its still just 3 coils you have to wire up. That said, I wouldn't bother with the cost of the 3 assemblies.

As to another used one, the problem is they are almost always just as bad as yours. If the eyelets are open at the top, you can always take it to your local welder and have him put a dab of weld across the top and you just re-drill a new hole and you are good to go.

Don't forget the white nylon tubes (flange bearings) or vinyl tubing ( I have seen this hack many times) across the vertical inside the chime holes, as well as foam washer/discs at the base. No one likes a "clanky" chime assembly and those Williams ones are notorious for that sound. You might be able to use the Gottlieb Chime grommets (available from Steve at Pinball resource) but they tend to muffle a Williams chime a bit too much. They need to dance around a bit on a Williams for the right sound but not so much so as to touch adjoining metal parts.

Wrong color but I think its the right hardware? (not my sale).

ebay.com link: Stern Nugent Pinball Machine Coin Door AS U SEE IT

Yup, that's the newer style credit counter (even though they went back to the old metal reel near the end).

As I recall, the "shutter" steps CW to show a higher number (add credit). The number wheel behind steps CCW showing a lower number. A "0" when lit, indicates 10 and can count up to 19 if the limit screw is set that high.

Old grease causes them to stick and not step smoothly. Take plenty of pictures as you disassemble it to clean as often, people ask for photos to figure out how to put it back together.

Just upgrade to the nice Chrome one. Same part. Williams just cheapened out for a couple of years there in the 70's. Went back to metal since the plastic ones would break.

There is enough "meat" there to use a slightly longer screw and still get 3 in there. Just start the thread with a self cutting screw first since the longer one you buy may not be self cutting.

I think someone was desperately looking for that Center bumper cap for another Williams game (like GulpStream or Pat Hand or something). The blue ones look like they are off of a Space Mission.

Isn't spirit the half moon credit unit?

A friend of mine has been suggesting doing that for years at Calif. Extreme.

You could always offer it up as a Charity Event. But who knows what kind of safety liability would come with it.

If no one comes through, while Bally Chime Bars were Steel, you can easily cut one from flat Aluminum stock (Williams and Gottlieb were aluminum) as a replacement. The long bar is only used for 1 note in Game Start and Game over tunes as I recall. Not even during game play. If you have another game with the bar, you can start a bit longer and "tune" it to make the correct note by trimming it, bit by bit. That's assuming you are not tone deaf and can't tell the difference anyway!

I wondered if his issue was position of hole in the blade or if it was distance away from the underside of the playfield.

That's the first game using the new style door. Should be the same cashbox as any game even including up to the SS games. Here's a photo of the one inside a Silverball Mania:

Bally_CashB.JPG

I use tin snips. Does the whole cut in one squeeze.

I believe Steve will either want to sell you a universal blade (the ones with many holes, come in 3 different stiffnesses) and a point/contact. Or an entire Gottlieb pop bumper switch assy.

Williams are the tough ones to find since they are all heavily worn (bad mechanical design).

Gottlieb and Bally sound the best. But the Gottlieb units seem to be made of gold (some selling for up to $125).

Bally's your best bet as you can use the ones from solid state games as long as you cut the diodes off the coils. The coils are 50v but will still work, just be a bit quieter. Or, you can repopulate it with wms 24v coils.

Ah, come on O-din,. Mount it in one of those boring 2" flipper games with those pesky bells! ?

One aspect of a Gottlieb Score motor cam set that can often be different is the number and height of the three pegs that can stick up off the top cam. They can be used to help randomize score or special when lit features by being added to the A Relay (alternator) on such games like Jack in the Box or King Kool.

unnamed (resized).png

I wonder if most were exported?

I have done the adaptation of a system 1 / system 3 lockdown bar system to my El Dorado.

As mentioned, you will need the slide mechanism to go with the "shark fine" style bar.

Then, you need to pry the small flat wood spacers off the inside front of the cabinet (the spacing is now handled by the slide mech.).

Then I had to trim/cut about a 1/4" notch across the top front edge of the cabinet (closest to the player) to provide clearance for the metal lip of slide mech.

As I recall, that was all that was needed to do it.

Typically, you can get this style lock down bar for around $25 plus around $15 for the slide if you ask the seller if they still have it. The catch is the extra cost for the shipping.

FYI, There is a slight difference in the newer bars. The do seem to overhang the side rails a tiny bit more and don't hug the top edges quit as close. But that is no different than how Premier sold games for many years.

Nope. You take the Playfield Glass off and you set it out in the Rain for a few seasons. Water effortlessly strips playfield paint better than any Sandpaper.

You did very well with free shipping. I used to have to pay around $18 extra.

I had to whittle away the notch in the front. But next time, I think it would be much easier to pass a circular saw across it and be done lickity split.

The shark fin system is also much better if you plan to operate the game in a rough location.

FYI, if the Bakelite is all still there, that can be fixed by using super glue. Looks like you would just have to square up one of the metal contacts.

True. Just like some $500 games are $500 games unless you paid $1500 for them!

Brown plastic was just a cost savings thing. You could also use the nicer chrome one.

I didn't search but they used to be available as NOS blanks without the Williams logo.

I am always impressed at how low the prices are at pinball life!

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=128

Stainless Steel Carriage bolts look nice and can be polished. The typical don't have the letter markings that the zinc ones do.

Is it on that rotary trip bank? Or on a normal solenoid reset trip bank?

The rotary bank is rather rare, only appeared in a small number of game (O&E, Monte Carlo, joust, bon voyage....). And therefore tough to find a donor.

For a while, Bally used a rotary trip bank that used a gear motor and white nylon cams that individually lift each relay armature in sequence. There is also a set of slip clutches and a separation that can split the bank into two units using one gear motor. The shorter section is used at the start of the game for reset functions. The longer portion is usually used for the game play sequence (knock out various letters, lights etc.) And can be reset whenever necessary without effecting the shorter portion.

You could always order only 5 new ones and place them on the lower drop target bank and then you will have 4 spares for the next time you do it.

Isn't Amigo just standard Bally red diamond? Someone sells nice mylar stickers for those.

Funny, three different spinners on IPdB.
One Aztec
One Middle Earth
One Eight Ball

I certainly don't remember ever seeing a Chicken spinner. And I used to play the game as a kid. With all those substitute spinners, I guess I can't trust mine being the orignal Red diamond.

And sorry JR, I knew I was butchering EK's name while I was typing. Just too lazy to look it up.

And based on the Animation, the Chicken is dancing just like everyone else in the photo (the chicken's legs move too).

Are you seeking the push button type? Or the toggle as many have mentioned? If Push Button, yes, the solder lug version is very difficult to find. But many places sell the same type of switch with two black wires hanging off of it (which you could butt-splice to). Just don't buy the one with 4 wires as those are designed to manually start a Fluorescent lamp fixture. OR the ones with 3 wires as those are On-On-Off.
PBSwitch (resized).jpg

I am pretty sure the old push button thread body is smaller than both the toggle style as well as the last P/B linked to. Either would require redrilling the mounting holes in the plate.

I agree, 3A is under rated. I was even worried about the 5A one.

Short legs on Gottliebs with the Newer Style "Recessed" coin door as they called it (aluminum frame around square SS door). Long legs on old style coin door (Coin Door, Strike Plate and coin entry plate mounted above the door on the cabinet). This is because the Recessed door required a deeper cabinet so they shortened the legs. I guess it would have looked funky if they had just moved the bolts up the cabinet. Think of all the cold rolled steel gottlieb saved over the years by shrinking their legs!!!

From Steve Young's The Pinball Resource Website:

Gottlieb® Mid-Late 50's 31'' Cream White Powder Coated

Gottlieb® 1956-1975 31'' Single Player Only -Painted usually to 1960
-( Legs used on Multi-Players games vary in length)

Gottlieb® 1976-1990 27'' Non-Ribbed

Gottlieb® 1990-1995 27'' or 31'' Check Game Manual

I guess it could be possible that Paul Bunyan being a 2 player might not have used 31" legs. BUT, if it sits too low, the 27" are the wrong ones. But I have never come across a late 60's or early 70's multiplayer that didn't also use the 31" legs. I am curious what the exceptions are?

Is that for one of those "Gravity" delay relays? (looks kind of like a VUK plunger)

Nope, sorry, that would be a stepper. Not a gravity delay relay.

Looks like you would have to read the voltage across the coil and see if you can find a bobbin size that would fit the frame. Otherwise, you might have to build a mounting bracket that would let you use a standard coil bobbin and sleeve, and a coil stop and coil retaining bracket (like cutting the end off a standard Sling Shot coil bracket and drill holes in it to mount it to the stepper unit). If the standard coil bobbin is too long, you might have to use a shorter one like found on many Bally steppers and relocated the mounting screw holes for the front coil retaining bracket. That's all assuming the stepper plunger is of a standard diameter.

But first, you have to start with what voltage its getting. standard coils would be either 24/28 Volts or 50V.