(Topic ID: 93586)

The EM seeking parts thread.

By Shapeshifter

5 years ago

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#20 5 years ago

Got a friend looking for a complete cash box for his Volley. If any one has one they want to part with, let me know. Doesn't have to be nice and shinny, just shouldn't look like it was unearthed from the local dinosaur diggings.

#42 5 years ago
And replied. Thanks!

1 week later
#130 5 years ago

Probably because the distributors over ordered them and that is what they had in stock to sell the operators. Not so much what Gott. may have had to sell them. I used to see the blue square 10 spinner from King Kool on all sorts of games it did not come with.

But as Dirt said, it probably took a lot of abuse and perhaps even Gottleib ran out of the proper one and more than likely, was not about to do another run of screening years after. So operators used what they could get.

Jungle was another one.

#133 5 years ago

Anyone out there finished their Wade Fast/Quick Draw playfield swap and have a respectable used P/F they want to sell? As well as a used plastic set? I just picked up a real beater and would like to upgrade it a little. This one is badly planked at the bottom so it will wear fast (more than it already has). I know new Plastics are available from PBR but the rest of the game doesn't really deserve a brand new set.

#136 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

We had a flood in our storeroom last year and I'm looking for a couple of 70s wedgehead cabinets in So Cal to replace our waterlogged ones. Not sure off the top of my head if they're the same, but one is for a '71 and the other is for a '75.
Hopefully within driving distance of So Cal. I know, it's a longshot but if it saves me building another cabinet, it's worth a try.

Gene Lewin of Vintage Arcades in Glendale just picked up a parts Duotron from the last Auction. He might be willing to sell you the lower cabinet if one of the heads is still salvagable.

#139 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

I only need the lower cabinets, thankfully, the heads were stored separately. They're for an Abra Ca Dabra and an Aquarius. I don't mind repainting a cabinet.
Will the Duotron (2 player) work for a wedgehead? I can't think of any differences. If so, I'll check in with Gene. I drive by his spot all the time.

I believe they are. The only thing I can think of that MIGHT be different would be the bolt patern for the head bolts and possibly the pedestal but both are easily modified to match.

#209 5 years ago
Quoted from sixpakmopar:

I just bought my first EM machine. Williams Heat Wave from 1964. Looking for coin door parts (picture shows what I do have) to replace the missing mechanisms, wiring, switches, basically everything inside was removed.One pop bumper body, the rod from the cabinet bottom tap off switch, coin box.I really do not have any parts from this era to offer as trade, I do however have the original envelope with what appears to have every piece of paperwork/notice that originally came with the machine (I am keeping this with the machine of course) But I could supply scans/pictures if anyone is interested. only thing I may have are some misc. parts from a hot tip EM or early Williams solid state games.Image (auto-loading disabled)Image (auto-loading disabled)Image (auto-loading disabled)
Thanks in advance for any assistance.

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I am not suggesting you buy this but am showing you it might expand your options. The flat style coin mech holders were very common for many years and as far as I know, the mount and hardware tended to line up the same. The ebay link is to a 2 slot midway door, common to something like Pacman or Ms Pacman. An old rusty one might have the parts you need for a fraction of the price.

ebay.com link » Original Bally Midway Coin Door Removed From Pacman Cabaret In Good Shape

#220 5 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Ok, it probably should be posted elsewhere, but look at this!! HOLY CRAP.
Jukes, parts, Slots, Bingo pins, Shuffle bowlers ...
" target=_blank>portland.craigslist.org link
Too bad I am booked this weekend, it's a 4 hour straight shot down I5 for me.... Medford, OR

Interesting. They already sent down 300+ games to Southern Calif. for a July 26th Auction. Many 80s/90s video conversions. A few interesting oldies (EM arcade pieces and B/W Video Games). Some Pinballs (EM and early SS). Some Flash Slots. Some Jukes and Pool Tables. NO BINGOs in So Cal.

They are also supposed to be doing an Online only auction with Super Auctions with the stuff getting listed on July 7th with the various items (Bingos, Slots, Jukes, Shuffle tables, Rolling stock) ending on various dates begining on July 27th.

I would think that by July 7th, if they commited them to Auction, they would no longer be available for on-site purchase.

#242 5 years ago

Anyone have an orphan Gottlieb slide on cash box lid? Need one to fit the 8-1/4" X 11" Cashbox but will take one for an 8" X 10-5/8" one too.

Let me know. (within the US please).


1 month later
#305 5 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Yikes! They're supposed to put it IN the truck; not run it over WITH the truck!

Expect every parcel to be able to withstand a 6 foot drop. Due to their conveyor system, it happens quite often. The other thing to remember is they are taught NOT to lift heavy packages to prevent personal injury. They instead, "roll" or tumble them end over end (such is the case of 75 pound CRT monitor boxes). The other thing to keep in mind is those semi trailer trucks you see driving down the road are filled to the top with boxes. Always expect your box to be on the bottom of the heap so it also needs to withstand the load on top.

We actually did have one box delivered that you could tell it WAS run over by a truck tire. The PCB inside was split down the middle. No drop could do that!

With all the complaints about USPS, I still think they might be the better choice as there may be more human handling and less machine processing when it comes to boxes that can't be handled by the automated equipment.

Just my personal opinions based on personal experience.

#307 5 years ago
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

I Never had a problem with items shipped Fed-Ex.

Neither have I. +1

#321 5 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

Looking for Gottlieb five bank drop target units, ala Abra ca Dabra. Ideally need to find four. Also looking for a shot but populated Gottlieb EM playfield, preferably with 3 inch flippers for a project, lastly looking for a Gottlieb roto target unit, super spin style not king of diamonds style, though if guess I'd use the KOD style if that's all I could find.

5 Banks are going to be pretty hard since most games that used a 5 bank only used one (except for games like Fast Draw). Many multi-bank games typically had banks with only 4 targets. That means, 4 different games would need to be junked for 4 banks. Here is one. Probably about the typical pricing you would pay. There are others but I think $42 and $59 is a bit steep to pay.

ebay.com link » Gottlieb Haunted House Pinball Playfield Drop Target Assembly Black Hole

Here is another well priced one:

ebay.com link » Gottlieb Pinball 5 Bank Drop Target Assy Parts From Ss Close Encounters

You may also want to call Steve Young at PBR and see if he has any New Old stock. There were a lot of those kind of things that came out of the closing of Premier.

2 weeks later
#347 5 years ago

What did Stern use for the "Skill Posts" for Europe? Were they rubber? Wasn't one used for the Fire Plug between the flippers on Fire!. I know WMS used the mini post in the 70's EM era (games like Super Star).


#359 5 years ago
Quoted from illawarra92:

could use a real nice, blank gottlieb Atlantis playfield

I have one that is well on its way to being "blank". A lot of the paint is flaking off due to weather.

1 week later
#376 5 years ago

Some of the earlier ones were "marblized" too. The new ones are not.

1 month later
#438 5 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Okay I posted on here two parts I needed and 4 hours later I have one being shipped out and the other is mine if my purchasing the pin comes through.
So I figured I would push my luck and see if anyone has one of these 5 cent plates or knows where I can get one? Plate is approximately 2" x 1 5/16" Image (auto-loading disabled)

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Email Steve Young a Photo at The Pinball Resource and let him look. He has a lot of parts that are not shown on the website. He built a lot of his inventory by buying out back rooms of old distributors.

1 month later
#512 4 years ago
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

Still looking for a 50 volt Total Play Meter for my 1969 Williams Phantom Gun game. It was missing from the game when I bought it.
Nothing on eBay and I even contacted PBR to see if they had some old ones lying around but they said they only had the 24 volt ones and questioned me if I was sure it was 50 volts.
My transformer clearly states 50 volts and I believe this was right before they went to 24 volts.

You might want to hunt down someone that deals in WMS shuffle alleys, I believe they are 50V. At least a 1973 I had was.

#523 4 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

I could use one of these cast nickel coin drops. It's from a Bally Skill Roll, but I'm not sure if they used them elsewhere (kiddie rides maybe?). Anyone ever see these floating around?
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Maybe you could also use something like off of one of those Keeney Flash Slot/Console slot machines:

allentown.craigslist.org link

The earlier ones were Nickel as I recall but many were probably converted to Quarter drop. Some were even triple coin (Nickel, Dime, Quarter).

They usually just sit rotting in warehouses as to some, their only redeeming value is the art of the backglass.

1 week later
#562 4 years ago

PM sent. Interested in the Flipper coil/mounting brackets and the 2 leaf switches with the fish paper attached.

Hope you can see the faint yellow circles in the attached photo.Gottlieb parts.jpg

#572 4 years ago
Quoted from jesster64:

cactus, this stuff?

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Exactly. There is also a rather thick L bracket that is used to stop the fiber link. If you have 2 of them (I saw at least 1), I would appreciate them too.

#584 4 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

That is for sure. Really, $150.00 for a beater machine is so worth it when you need parts!
My problem is that I usually can't bring myself to part one out & end up dumping $$$ into it for restoration.

Really bad backglass, thrashed playfield, cheap purchase price = Part machine to me. Not every game needs to be saved. Parts games bring better ones back to life!

#609 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

2. Make switch for on/off function of the alternating relay function.

Since he said it does not score "anything" with the AS relay missing, it makes me think they didn't use an alternator relay but instead have simply a Make/Break switch - which might also explain the reference to the 75 ohm resistor (to drop the 28V to 6V for the lamp).

#647 4 years ago
Quoted from John_in_NC:

Here are some of my spares, includes transformer, lockdown bar ($85, sure thing once I sell it I'll need it) Lots of playfield parts not pictured. If you need 60s or 70s Gottlieb parts I may have them. Lots of coils, slings, flippers pops, credit unit, coin door parts, side rails, prop bar top arch, PM if you see anything you need. If you PM me for a part not shown and I don't answer, I don't have it.

Somebody here was just looking for the Lamp Plate for behind the Coin Chute inserts (a 3 lamp one at the top of your photo). Not sure if they sourced one yet.

2 months later
#886 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Here are pictures of the one I will bring to TPF. Image loading is disabled in your settings. un-hideimage.jpg (Click image to enlarge) Image loading is disabled in your settings. un-hideimage.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

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Hey. I have one that looks just like that! Guess it came out of the same mold.

2 weeks later
#944 4 years ago
Quoted from Odessa:

Still after a lockdown bar for my 73 Gottlieb High Hand if anyone has one they could sell me. I'm happy to pay the extra postage to Australia.

If you don't mind the modification to your game, you can modify it to use the later style "shark fin" version like off a System 1 or later game by swapping out the lock bar slide (receiver). In the US, the lock bar can be had for around $25 and people usually sell the slide for around $15. And plenty more System 1 and System 3 games get junked so they tend to show up regularly.

What you have to do is remove the wood spacers that are tacked onto the back side of the front of the cabinet. Remove the playfield hangers as they are now part of the new slide.

Then comes the hardest part, you have to cut away a small amount (about 1/8" X 1/8") off the top front edge of the cabinet since the front lip of the slide has to sit in this.

1 week later
#980 4 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

I don't think they had those in stock for a long? I could be wrong, I never had to get one from them

Steve was making the "Peg" style by cutting down the shark fin style that came from the Premier inventory and was welding in a bar to accommodate the screw pegs. As Retro Pinball, we purchased 100 lock bars from him but I was told we sent 50 of them back as we ended up not using them.

I am not sure why he hasn't geared up to keep converting them due to the demand for them. I would expect if he does, he will charge a bit more than he used to.

Those $125+ Peg bars are why I keep bringing up my Shark Fin conversion. It may not be something you want to do to your prized keeper, but it is certainly a great option for saving a decent player's condition game that may not justify the higher expense.

#986 4 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

$200! Well, now we're getting silly.

Don't forget the $12.00 shipping.

And, it wasn't even for PinballGirl's college fund.

3 weeks later
#1043 4 years ago

Cactus Jack's is a standard width game and would use a Lockdown Bar just like on a System 1 pin (or very late model EM).

3 months later
#1346 4 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I tell yea, that re-chrome stuff is amazing. Better than PBR new.

But it really doesn't look right with all the Stainless Steel around it. And, if you do chrome the rest of the stuff, you end up with, as I believe Tim Arnold calls them, a Herb Silvers Chrome Whore. Which, I guess some people like.

Me, I prefer the original finish.

#1354 4 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

EM-PINMAN want me to chrome the top arch and bottom apron on Surfer for you? You could win best mod at TPF

Don't forget the Side Rails, Coin Insert Bezel, Strike Plate and Lock down bar. If you're gunna do it, do it right!

1 week later
#1379 4 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

Looking for this Williams connector. 2 blade female Image loading is disabled in your settings. un-hide20150906_184741.jpg . This one rusted out from the rat piss.

I know it wouldn't be original but most pinheads wouldn't even notice if you were to change that to a standard 2 pin Jones plug.

#1388 4 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

need a 5" bell.. just the bell but will take the complete assembly if needed
PBR has not stocked them in quite some time, not sure they ever will again

It may not be the right color or exact size but there are always plenty of gong size bells to choose from on ebay. Just search fire bell. There is one right now in Vegas for 5 bucks plush shipping.

2 weeks later
#1458 4 years ago

Sounds like the perfect part for 3D printing for someone with those talents.

2 weeks later
#1523 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

It's sort of like this one, it is for SlickChick: Here's a pic from IPMD
Need two actually, one for Aloha also.

You keep asking for the "Plate" but I think it is the down chutes that you want (the part that is sticking out of the face plates). These are what people are saying are nearly impossible to get since they get sheared off over time. And the newer 70's style are more common (more games junked).

I am not sure if it will work but you might be able to try the later style triangular face plate with the later model down chutes that don't stick out. Then, you would have to add some GI sockets to light up the plastic inserts.

2 weeks later
#1596 4 years ago

Got lots of crudely painted ones from I think a goucho (entire roto parted for the blades). Shoot me your mailing address and I will pop 2 in the mail Monday. Not sure why you got down voted????

2 weeks later
#1667 4 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Is this possible? Never heard of a chime to bell conversion.
- -- ----- -- -
All this to say, I'm pretty sure I'm still interested in a chime unit if anyone has one lying around.

Whether a chime unit or 3 separate bell assemblies, its still just 3 coils you have to wire up. That said, I wouldn't bother with the cost of the 3 assemblies.

As to another used one, the problem is they are almost always just as bad as yours. If the eyelets are open at the top, you can always take it to your local welder and have him put a dab of weld across the top and you just re-drill a new hole and you are good to go.

Don't forget the white nylon tubes (flange bearings) or vinyl tubing ( I have seen this hack many times) across the vertical inside the chime holes, as well as foam washer/discs at the base. No one likes a "clanky" chime assembly and those Williams ones are notorious for that sound. You might be able to use the Gottlieb Chime grommets (available from Steve at Pinball resource) but they tend to muffle a Williams chime a bit too much. They need to dance around a bit on a Williams for the right sound but not so much so as to touch adjoining metal parts.

1 week later
#1698 4 years ago
Quoted from kovalski3:

I'm looking for a Chicago coin coin door for a shoot out gun game. This door was used on many Chicago coin games. Image loading is disabled in your settings. un-hideimage.jpeg
Pm me if you have one for sale.

Wrong color but I think its the right hardware? (not my sale).

ebay.com link » Stern Nugent Pinball Machine Coin Door As U See It

#1704 4 years ago

Yup, that's the newer style credit counter (even though they went back to the old metal reel near the end).

As I recall, the "shutter" steps CW to show a higher number (add credit). The number wheel behind steps CCW showing a lower number. A "0" when lit, indicates 10 and can count up to 19 if the limit screw is set that high.

Old grease causes them to stick and not step smoothly. Take plenty of pictures as you disassemble it to clean as often, people ask for photos to figure out how to put it back together.

#1742 4 years ago
Quoted from oldtowner:

Hi Folks,
I'm looking for a pink-ish Williams shooter housing, like the one shown, for my Doozie. The flier shows a pink one, and the gray one fitted is just toooooo drab...... Image loading is disabled in your settings. un-hideScreen Shot 2015-11-29 at 22.47.46.png

Just upgrade to the nice Chrome one. Same part. Williams just cheapened out for a couple of years there in the 70's. Went back to metal since the plastic ones would break.

#1747 4 years ago

There is enough "meat" there to use a slightly longer screw and still get 3 in there. Just start the thread with a self cutting screw first since the longer one you buy may not be self cutting.

1 week later
#1777 4 years ago

I think someone was desperately looking for that Center bumper cap for another Williams game (like GulpStream or Pat Hand or something). The blue ones look like they are off of a Space Mission.

1 month later
#1949 3 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

Are you looking for just the wheels or the complete replay unit?
Someone on rec.games.pinball just posted he is parting out a Spirit of 76.

Isn't spirit the half moon credit unit?

1 week later
#1972 3 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Tempted to do a "Glass Smash" at TPF, I have about 8 glasses all similar to that.

A friend of mine has been suggesting doing that for years at Calif. Extreme.

You could always offer it up as a Charity Event. But who knows what kind of safety liability would come with it.

4 weeks later
#2063 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballdork:

The machine is a SS (kinda wrong thread), but I looking for the single bar chime box for a Bally Eight ball. Picture from IPDB, thanks!

Image loading is disabled in your settings. un-hideimage-20_(resized).jpg

If no one comes through, while Bally Chime Bars were Steel, you can easily cut one from flat Aluminum stock (Williams and Gottlieb were aluminum) as a replacement. The long bar is only used for 1 note in Game Start and Game over tunes as I recall. Not even during game play. If you have another game with the bar, you can start a bit longer and "tune" it to make the correct note by trimming it, bit by bit. That's assuming you are not tone deaf and can't tell the difference anyway!

#2072 3 years ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

You can drill new holes in the underside and reposition the switch stack so that it lines up underneath.

I wondered if his issue was position of hole in the blade or if it was distance away from the underside of the playfield.

1 month later
#2211 3 years ago
Quoted from wayner:

Would appreciate if someone is able to post a pic of the correct coin box for a Bally 1972 Fireball pls. Thks.

That's the first game using the new style door. Should be the same cashbox as any game even including up to the SS games. Here's a photo of the one inside a Silverball Mania:


#2223 3 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

here is a bank for the 4 player version should be the same.
ebay.com link » Gottlieb Big Indian Pinball Machine Reset Bank Nice And Works

. No, it looks like that's a 10 bank, the two player has less trip positions. But maybe a lot of it is the same, just more of it.

#2233 3 years ago

I use tin snips. Does the whole cut in one squeeze.

2 months later
#2352 3 years ago

I believe Steve will either want to sell you a universal blade (the ones with many holes, come in 3 different stiffnesses) and a point/contact. Or an entire Gottlieb pop bumper switch assy.

#2359 3 years ago

Williams are the tough ones to find since they are all heavily worn (bad mechanical design).

Gottlieb and Bally sound the best. But the Gottlieb units seem to be made of gold (some selling for up to $125).

Bally's your best bet as you can use the ones from solid state games as long as you cut the diodes off the coils. The coils are 50v but will still work, just be a bit quieter. Or, you can repopulate it with wms 24v coils.

1 week later
#2400 3 years ago

Ah, come on O-din,. Mount it in one of those boring 2" flipper games with those pesky bells! ?

2 months later
#2612 3 years ago

One aspect of a Gottlieb Score motor cam set that can often be different is the number and height of the three pegs that can stick up off the top cam. They can be used to help randomize score or special when lit features by being added to the A Relay (alternator) on such games like Jack in the Box or King Kool.

#2620 3 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

and i am still looking for a rainbow unicorn...

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#2625 3 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

I was jus t joking, it is a title that tends to have pf issues even in playable games. can't find it if you don't ask. but in the years I have been doing this, golden is not a title I have seen much. they made 1500+ so you would think they world pop up more then they do.

Agreed. Only seen two myself in Calif. For all these years. Both in the hands of people that cycle through tons if buys and trades. Never just at a normal auction (been attending pinball auctions since the early 1980s.). Certainly not your typical Craigslist listing type game.

I wonder if most were exported?

3 months later
#2898 2 years ago

I have done the adaptation of a system 1 / system 3 lockdown bar system to my El Dorado.

As mentioned, you will need the slide mechanism to go with the "shark fine" style bar.

Then, you need to pry the small flat wood spacers off the inside front of the cabinet (the spacing is now handled by the slide mech.).

Then I had to trim/cut about a 1/4" notch across the top front edge of the cabinet (closest to the player) to provide clearance for the metal lip of slide mech.

As I recall, that was all that was needed to do it.

Typically, you can get this style lock down bar for around $25 plus around $15 for the slide if you ask the seller if they still have it. The catch is the extra cost for the shipping.

FYI, There is a slight difference in the newer bars. The do seem to overhang the side rails a tiny bit more and don't hug the top edges quit as close. But that is no different than how Premier sold games for many years.

1 week later
#2948 2 years ago
Quoted from Otaku:

How the hell does this happen? Instead of using the ball you rub sandpaper on the playfield to score points?

Nope. You take the Playfield Glass off and you set it out in the Rain for a few seasons. Water effortlessly strips playfield paint better than any Sandpaper.

1 week later
#2984 2 years ago

You did very well with free shipping. I used to have to pay around $18 extra.

I had to whittle away the notch in the front. But next time, I think it would be much easier to pass a circular saw across it and be done lickity split.

The shark fin system is also much better if you plan to operate the game in a rough location.

4 months later
#3401 2 years ago

FYI, if the Bakelite is all still there, that can be fixed by using super glue. Looks like you would just have to square up one of the metal contacts.

1 month later
#3472 2 years ago
Quoted from SadSack:

If you spent $100 on it, it would then be a $100 part.

True. Just like some $500 games are $500 games unless you paid $1500 for them!

2 weeks later
#3505 2 years ago

Brown plastic was just a cost savings thing. You could also use the nicer chrome one.

I didn't search but they used to be available as NOS blanks without the Williams logo.

#3507 2 years ago

I am always impressed at how low the prices are at pinball life!


#3509 2 years ago

Stainless Steel Carriage bolts look nice and can be polished. The typical don't have the letter markings that the zinc ones do.

4 months later
#3715 1 year ago
Quoted from Jlescher19:

Does any body have a End of Game relay from a bally EM like Odds and Evens. Its the one in the reset bank at the back end of the bank-left side of the bottom board. I need the whole thing-coil and switch stack.

Is it on that rotary trip bank? Or on a normal solenoid reset trip bank?

The rotary bank is rather rare, only appeared in a small number of game (O&E, Monte Carlo, joust, bon voyage....). And therefore tough to find a donor.

#3718 1 year ago
Quoted from Jlescher19:

I Don't know the diff between a rotary and normal trip bank but
It's on the solenoid reset bank on the left bottom center.

Most games use a trip bank that is reset by one or two solenoids and a long bar that lifts the relay armatures.

For a while, Bally used a rotary trip bank that used a gear motor and white nylon cams that individually lift each relay armature in sequence. There is also a set of slip clutches and a separation that can split the bank into two units using one gear motor. The shorter section is used at the start of the game for reset functions. The longer portion is usually used for the game play sequence (knock out various letters, lights etc.) And can be reset whenever necessary without effecting the shorter portion.

1 week later
#3760 1 year ago

You could always order only 5 new ones and place them on the lower drop target bank and then you will have 4 spares for the next time you do it.

1 week later
#3777 1 year ago
Quoted from dasvis:

'74 Bally Amigo - Need correct spinner, for some reason this looks wrong........

Evil Kenival!

Isn't Amigo just standard Bally red diamond? Someone sells nice mylar stickers for those.

#3779 1 year ago
Quoted from dasvis:

I hope so, but I don't know. The pics on IPDB are not very good.......

that's how I remember mine. But it would be cool for someone to whip up a black ink silhouette of a guy in a sombrero taking a Siesta.

#3789 1 year ago

Funny, three different spinners on IPdB.
One Aztec
One Middle Earth
One Eight Ball

I certainly don't remember ever seeing a Chicken spinner. And I used to play the game as a kid. With all those substitute spinners, I guess I can't trust mine being the orignal Red diamond.

And sorry JR, I knew I was butchering EK's name while I was typing. Just too lazy to look it up.

#3811 1 year ago

And based on the Animation, the Chicken is dancing just like everyone else in the photo (the chicken's legs move too).

1 month later
#3962 1 year ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

I have scoured the net for the small williams rectangular plastic drop targets (for a 77' Liberty Bell.) Pinball resources is the only site I could find that had them listed but were "Out of stock"
I would have thought planetarypinball would have had them but they only have the single hole ones. This machine has 2 rivet holes and is only about 1.5"x1".

it was suggested once,but I don't know if it would work, that the Chicago Coin drop target arm (which was in stock when mentioned) might work as a replacement for a Williams?

2 months later
#4256 1 year ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Looking for a power switch for my 1977 Gottlieb Lucky Hand. The switch stopped working yesterday. Not sure if that's fixable (haven't had one go bad before) or if I just need to replace with a new one and re-solder the wires.

Are you seeking the push button type? Or the toggle as many have mentioned? If Push Button, yes, the solder lug version is very difficult to find. But many places sell the same type of switch with two black wires hanging off of it (which you could butt-splice to). Just don't buy the one with 4 wires as those are designed to manually start a Fluorescent lamp fixture. OR the ones with 3 wires as those are On-On-Off.
PBSwitch (resized).jpg

#4267 1 year ago

I am pretty sure the old push button thread body is smaller than both the toggle style as well as the last P/B linked to. Either would require redrilling the mounting holes in the plate.

I agree, 3A is under rated. I was even worried about the 5A one.

1 week later
#4316 1 year ago

Short legs on Gottliebs with the Newer Style "Recessed" coin door as they called it (aluminum frame around square SS door). Long legs on old style coin door (Coin Door, Strike Plate and coin entry plate mounted above the door on the cabinet). This is because the Recessed door required a deeper cabinet so they shortened the legs. I guess it would have looked funky if they had just moved the bolts up the cabinet. Think of all the cold rolled steel gottlieb saved over the years by shrinking their legs!!!

#4318 1 year ago

From Steve Young's The Pinball Resource Website:

Gottlieb® Mid-Late 50's 31'' Cream White Powder Coated

Gottlieb® 1956-1975 31'' Single Player Only -Painted usually to 1960
-( Legs used on Multi-Players games vary in length)

Gottlieb® 1976-1990 27'' Non-Ribbed

Gottlieb® 1990-1995 27'' or 31'' Check Game Manual

I guess it could be possible that Paul Bunyan being a 2 player might not have used 31" legs. BUT, if it sits too low, the 27" are the wrong ones. But I have never come across a late 60's or early 70's multiplayer that didn't also use the 31" legs. I am curious what the exceptions are?

3 weeks later
#4358 1 year ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

I'm guessing so. I tried calling around to some local welding shops before and got the runaround. Nobody really seemed interested in doing it.

I get all my welding needs taken care of by a privately owned muffler shop. May not be the prettiest work but it gets the job done. I usually pay him about 5X-10X what he actually asks for. He doesn't realize either how much he is saving me or that the item is NLA etc.

1 week later
#4389 1 year ago
Quoted from DCRand:

I know this is the place to post parts needed long shots, and this is an 80 year old long shot. Need help identifying and finding a replacement coil for a 1938 Chicago Coin Swing. Pics of the coil below. Have sent to PBR, and Don with Pinball Collectors Resource, but with no positive ID yet. Any help would be appreciated.

Is that for one of those "Gravity" delay relays? (looks kind of like a VUK plunger)

#4394 1 year ago

Nope, sorry, that would be a stepper. Not a gravity delay relay.

Looks like you would have to read the voltage across the coil and see if you can find a bobbin size that would fit the frame. Otherwise, you might have to build a mounting bracket that would let you use a standard coil bobbin and sleeve, and a coil stop and coil retaining bracket (like cutting the end off a standard Sling Shot coil bracket and drill holes in it to mount it to the stepper unit). If the standard coil bobbin is too long, you might have to use a shorter one like found on many Bally steppers and relocated the mounting screw holes for the front coil retaining bracket. That's all assuming the stepper plunger is of a standard diameter.

But first, you have to start with what voltage its getting. standard coils would be either 24/28 Volts or 50V.

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