If you have all of the pieces I've had pretty good luck gluing pot metal back together with JB Weld. Since the casting is concave you can add a thick layer to the inside and add things like strips of metal or nails across the cracks for reinforcement. You'll need to find a way to hold the pieces in place while the JB Weld sets up. For extra thickness you can add multiple layers, scoring the dry layer before adding the new wet layer so it has something to bite into.

/Mark

Thanks all, if can't find one, going to try the jb weld technique. Happen to already have some. And appreciate the tips on layering Mark. Was thinking of small strips of plumbers tape for reinforcing. And was going to use painters or packing tape on the front with the piece nestled into a bunched up towel to hold it together while gluing. Hoping to get to it this weekend. Will post pics of outcome. Sadly, the person I bought it from had just broken it when someone ran a cart handle into it. While flipperless are not worth much, the backglass on this is beautiful and looks perfect, so want to get the rest of the game looking good and working soon. edit: Forgot to mention, if can't get it fixed or find one, will consider the 3D printing. But don't have any experience and haven't seen how metal parts turn out.

looking for an EOS switch leaf for 1977 Gottlieb score reel. PBR does not have these.

EOS leaf (resized).png

Still crawling around on my hands and knees trying to find a few rollover guides for my Sweet Hearts.

I need two: Double-sided lane guides... 2 1/2 inches center to center on the screw holes.

And one: Single-sided lane guide... 1 1/2 inch center to center on the screw holes.

These would be the older type without the diamond on top. (white)

TIA

I can source you a 1 1/2 guide, Im redoing a Ks&Qs and have replaced with the lilly white from pbr

this is probably what you need or maybe this reel, a little closer in vintage

ebay.com link: GOTTLIEBS PIONEER EM PINBALL MACHINE BACK BOX SCORE WHEEL ASSY 4

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1200 nos posts

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JB weld is ok, but you are better off doing this with Epoxy and fibre glass strips... Rough up the inside with 80 grit Sandpaper. I really recomend West System epoxy.

If you can wait till i get back in country( 6 weeks) i can do it for you... I have all the stuff.

Bob

Hey guys,would anyone have a few williams switch blades with the big silver contacts.pbr did not have any.or just the big silver contacts.can pm me.thanks.

I'd like to learn more. How much do you need to buy at a time, shelf life, working time, tips, hazards, etc. Maybe that deserves its own topic on pot metal repair?

Have piles of 'em. Which switch blades are we talking about?

If you have any spare smaller Gottlieb relays, those blades work. Just have to cut 1/8"
or so off the longer blade so it doesn't rub on the plunger. I just changed out three of them
this afternoon..

Hi balzosteel.i guess it is williams score motor switches with big contacts I'm looking for.im using them on a shuffle bowler.seem to be same .I pm you earlier today.thanks for any help.let me know.

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For what relay(s) on what Shuffle Bowler?

Hi mopar.for a united shuffle bowler.bank switches.

Okay, for the Relay Bank. I almost must have some. What's the title of your Shuffle?

Hi, mopar,can't tell you name of bowler because I stole it from you.i was running out the door and forgot to take them .I was hoping you would show up with the correct ones.please pm me and let me know when you will be at work so I can get them.there like the pic I posted in #4063.thanks.

Hi

Have a 1970 Decagon Stock Car Pin

Need the EOS switch for the score reel
Silver Switch

Message me

Used is perfect as long as usable

Thanks

Bob, thanks but didn’t see your post till now, and already used JB. Hopefully will hold ok. Thanks for tip though.

Brian, I'm not sure what you're saying, but is it a woodrail bowler (50s)?
Which do you need, the longer, shorter, or both blades?

Do you have any extra Gottlieb relays that use the smaller blades? They work fine,
it's just that they're 1/8" too long which gets clipped off..

Oh, just noticed, you need the silver switch. You mean the smaller firm one?
If so, I must have some someplace..

Thank you, pinhead52!

That should do it for the 1 1/2 inch lane guides I am looking for... now if I can only find those silly 2 1/2 inch guides.

They seem to be elusive but maybe I can have some 3D printed if all else fails, looking into it with the help of way2wyrd.

I am hoping that a fellow Pinsider can help me locate the missing "swirl-style" Bakelite globes (or something similar) which flank the marquee for my project 1953 Exhibit Supply Space Gun arcade. It's possible that a woodrail pinball machine utilized such globes.

Photos 2 & 3 show my game, which is missing the correct Bakelite globes.

Photos 4 & 5 are stock photos showing the space gun and the targets.

Photo 6 shows a friend's Space Gun which has the correct Bakelite globes, for reference.

The object is, of course, to shoot moving targets, in this case, 4 eerie glow-in-the-dark spacemen. When struck, the spaceman target is knocked down. Unlimited shots during the timed game which runs for 60 seconds. The targets are painted fluorescent colors and are illuminated by a black light. A bell audio feature is activated with successful shot.

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Sorry, I don't have any spares but they do look just like the globes on my '39 Bally Champion (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1939-bally-champion) so it seems likely that they were used on other games too.

Mark, Probably the West System White papers can give you a better idea than i can:

https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/

I have a gallon of resin and whatever hardener size goes with it, I think it's a quart. The pumps are very handy. For small stuff around the house you might want to go with a smaller size than the gallon. I think West will tell you shelf life is 1-2 years ( i didn't look it up) but i have product for 5-7 years still works fine.

It's very much the same as using polyester resin and glass, but the epoxy is a much better resin than the polyester structurally, It doesn't stink as bad either. Some few people have allergies to epoxy, Luckily i do not... Read Precautions on West site.

The key to that kind of layup is to keep the the layup " Lean" meaning as little resin as possible to fully impregnate the glass. It takes a bit of practice cutting the glass layers, and after a while you start to feel a bit like a tailor.

Working time is pretty long, there are two different hardeners, Fast i think is 15 minutes, Slow about 30 minutes. The pot life is effected by temp Cold =longer hot= shorter

Tips;
cover your workspace with paper, get 10 disposable quart cups in the paint department at HD and rotate them. Ie. once you mix a batch just let it harden and then you can pop it out of the cup. Try not to scratch up the inside of the cup then the batches will pop out easily.

because the reaction is exothermic ( it gives off heat) and the heat shortens the pot life, Be careful keeping a bunch of it in the pot. you will find that the epoxy you quickly spread out on the project has a lot longer working time than what sits "cooking" in the pot. Sometimes i take the pot and spread it out thin on on the work quickly, then come back to move it around later. this gives a longer life than leaving it in the pot.

West system sells stir sticks, get a bunch they are great. They pop out after it hardens too. https://www.westsystem.com/application-tools/reusable-mixing-sticks/

Use disposable gloves, you will go through a bunch.

I like the Light filler (410) Mix up a batch of resin, then add the filler till it's like peanut butter, The best wood filler ever!

You can use Epoxy to make anything! Burt Rutan made a plane that flew around the world! Your mileage may vary...

Excellent summary. Thanks.

I don't know the resistance. The coil operates on 115v. I am going to buy one of the coke machines ones from ebay. Thank you for the link.

Sorry if this isn't an entirely kosher use of the thread, but here's a "what parts to I need?" question instead.

Working on a 1971 Gottlieb Playball. Went to clean switches in the reset bank and realized that the main arm was only connected on one side.
The shoulder bolt on the side closest to the coil is completely missing. No bolt, no washers, no nut - no nothing.
I have no idea how this thing was actually resetting and allowing me to play.

Anyway - here's a picture of the hardware on the side that had it. It's a shoulder bolt, two washers between the arm and frame of the bank, with a nut and lock washer on the inside.
IMG_3499 (resized).JPG

I assume there should be a matching set of hardware on the other side? Silly question perhaps, but I would like to repair this right.

I see that PBR sells the shoulder bolts, but I'm going to feel like an idiot if I have to place a third order this month. Anyone know of a brick and mortar retail source that would carry such a specific bolt?

You can take the shoulder bolt out and compare it to the parts that your local Ace Hardware or True Value will have. Go to the specialty drawers and search. They often have shoulder bolts. You may not get a hex head. More probably a socket head cap shoulder bolt. But as long as the shaft length is similar you should be able to make it work.

Silly, but I didn't even think of Ace. Tried a Menards and Home Depot last night with no luck.
Thanks for the pointer.

edit - one trip to Ace later.... Not as pretty - but does the job just fine.
IMG_3500 (resized).JPG
Side note - my check engine light came on on my way home. Sigh.

That's what I had in mind. I assume they didn't have one with a shorter shaft. Nonetheless, it works.

You can always get the correct part from PBR on your next order if you need it to stay original.

For what it's worth I replaced the pivot on the slingshot mechanism on a Cirqus Voltaire with a similar appropriately sized cap head socket shoulder bolt many many years ago. The swaged pin broke from the frame and this part did the trick. For what it's worth CV had a funky design that they used for the slingshot mech that I haven't seen on any other WPC game. But I digress.

You can't make this stuff up.

Been having an issue with a particular relay along the side of the motor board. Removed the cotter pin holding it in place and worked on it for a bit. Went to put it back in and dropped the pin. Of course it took a bounce and slid under the motor board out of reach. Grabbed the greatest tool in the history of man - the extending magnet stick thing and began fishing for it.

Got the cotter pin in a few seconds, but thought to myself "It sure felt like I tapped something else under there." Magnet fishing expedition two... and I think you know where this is going.

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Now that is funny. And exactly something that would happen to me.

I like how in pinball all the evidence, loose parts in your instance, always end up in the bottom of the body cabinet.

And there is no way you would have found that part had you not already sourced the shoulder bolt from the hardware store.

After cleaning the cabinet, that's one of the first things I do. Pull the mech board and see what treasure is kicking around loose in the bottom of the cabinet. Besides being kind of fun, a lot of times it gives you insight into what issues you're going to run into. Broken switches, missing hardware, burnt fuses etc.

etc = dead rats, mud daubers, old joints, occasionally some change

Usually a bunch of labels and and dirt too. Always fun to find old change. I found a quarter in my recently acquired Flip Flop. Brought the initial investment down 25 cents. Woo Hoo. I found a few silver dimes in an old P&B my uncle gave me.

I have always referred to the stuff in the bottom cabinet as treasure.
I always look for the bits and pieces of the broken plastics to see if I can repair the ones I have in the game.

Anyone got a decent back-door for a Gottlieb two-player? The one that came with the Quick Draw I'm restoring to sell is an after-market door that someone made, but doesn't fit very well.

I know I can buy a nice repro, and may, but wanted to first check to see if someone has one from a game they're parting out.

Thanks,

Mark

I am looking for 4 of the flippers that have "Bat" on them. They were used on World Series, Grand Slam, Play Ball and a couple of other Gottlieb's. Yes, I do know that Pin Rescue sells the sticker, but I am looking for original.

I believe the originals were also stickers. Not molded.

you might want to check with steve on that, i believe they were inked on but not hot stamped like pb caps

I will call on Monday and talk to Steve.

I just had to order replacements for a World Series that I had. PBR does not have them. I had to buy the flippers from Steve and order the stickers from whoever has them (I think they're in Australia). I agree with @dennisdodel, I think the originals were also stickers.

Dave

My Playball has what I have to believe are originals and they’re definitely stickers.

There’s also a PDF that’s easily found online if you want to print your own.

I'm needing a backglass for a flip a card.

Is this available anywhere other than going the BG resto route?

I am in need of a set of wooden legs to suit a 1952 WMS Disk Jockey. My best guess is that they should be 32.5', but I'd settle for a nice set of 31' at this point.

Looking to pick up at Allentown Pinfest if anyone has a spare set to help get a Disk Jockey back on its feet.

I have a Gottlieb Jacks Open that needs a new/used cabinet. I know that the wedge head cabinet went thru several changes over the years but not sure what years would work for my January 1977 game. My guess anything after that but I'm not sure how far back I can go. Any help on that would be great. I will be in Allentown Thursday night thru Saturday. Thanks

you need a "big door" game, 1976 onward