I've wondered the same thing too. I have both styles on my machines including one of the wingnut ones modiifed to work on the later style. I think to use the later one on the early cabinet might require removing some wood and installing the correct receiver.

Looking for 1 sonic flipper bat.

Need a black J drop target for a GTB Jacks Open, Lucky Hand, Royal Flush, Card Whiz, etc.

Don't want to buy a complete set for this project I'm working on.

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pretty sure i have a few of those. email me so i remember to look in the morning..

chasing a nice set of playfield plastics for a gottlieb oklahoma from 1961

Does anyone have one or more trip banks from a Williams machine with six relays on the bank?

Number of switches and game it comes from - even era is not important, but I do need a total of three banks.

And they must be from a Williams machine.

Thanks in advance!

E-mail sent

Thanks Dave

Anybody got a spare set of plastics for Cow Poke/Buckaroo? Pinball Rescue offline a couple of weeks

Hi everyone, I am still looking for the coil and frame that are found on a 1947 Humpty Dumpty coin door. They allow nickel slide to vend the free games on the machine. Some knucklehead removed these parts from my game. PBR does not have them.

Thanks,
Karen

#humpty-dumpty

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chasing a complete set of playfield plastics for a gottlieb spin out

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That's certainly an odd ball arch & set of plastics Tony!!

Does anyone have these gottlieb parts? I need the same thing as in the pics
They are for pioneer but any gottleib of that era will work

Two are the pieces that make up the glass channel and the other is an arch spacer

thx

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I get these top bars rechromed (the ones with the tab) Send me a PM and I can fix you up

Need a harness to a Sky Jump "head". My serious project game started blowing 25v fuses and after examination the harness is just falling apart, cotton insulation rotten.

Help me out or Im going to kill the game

Hey Karen, Our Humpty Dumpty doesn't have anything like that on the coin door. I also don't see any screw holes or indications that it may have been removed. Our game was in the same home from 1963 until 2015 when I bought it and appears pretty original inside.

To put ours on free play, I disassembled the coin slide and shifted the pawl that would prevent the slide from functioning without a coin. It pivots and, once it's apart, it could be pivoted in a manner where it won't go back and could be easily returned to original state.

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This is what I have on my Jack N Jill.

Alan

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If you still need one I likely have one. Assuming the ones for Joker Poker are the same.

(yes they are)

Thanks for the offer but boilerman was nice enough to drop one in the mail.

I want to convert my Paradise to a regular power switch instead of the kick switch. If someone has parted out a game, I could use the whole switch assembly from a newer Gottlieb EM including the black cover, metal plate, switch, wires and wood block. I looked through all of my parts and could not find any.

Here is what I am talking about:

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i can give you the metal plate and you can get the switch from lowes/home depot
the black cover i have a few spares but we all know they tend to be MIA so i try not to part with parts i might need in the future.

It seems like someone 3D printed the cover?

I knew I had one of these somewhere, so I did a third look through my parts and found a box that I had not looked through. Sure enough, I had two plates and one of the black covers. Thanks for the offer; hold on to it.

Yes, I found that too. Good to know it is around! Gottlieb part number is B-15163

http://www.shapeways.com/product/KSZMWPDY9/gottlieb-on-off-switch-cover-b-15163?optionId=40311760

Move the kick switch to a mount such as this, ie the rod hanging in a hole similar in local to this switch. Gives you the exact same function.

Yeah it gives the same function but it leaves a bunch of switches and coils connected to one side or the other of power cord even while the game is "off". I may be a little paranoid, but I want an actual hard switch at the cord to disconnect the black wire before it branches out around the cabinet. I suspect Gottlieb changed to the hard switch from the kick switch for the same safety concerns.

No more or less than a single throw switch... that is a silly argument. the kick switch switch is on the AC side, the exact same area your switch is.

Hate to disagree, so look at the schematics. The kick switch is a "soft" off that leaves live a/c power in various places inside the cabinet and on the coin door, while the toggle switch disconnects the hot wire at the switch before it goes anywhere else in the game.

So you are also swapping the cord to a polarized plug to guarantee the hot is the hot

Haha, yeah the game came with a beaten up 40 year old lamp cord that barely reaches the floor, looks like about 22 gauge wire and has one of those rotating switches built into the cord. I figured I would do the cabinet switch mod while I am in there connecting a nice long three prong cord. The switch will definitely be the black wire.

i just use 3 of these
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-8-Outlet-Conserve-Protector-F7C01008q/dp/B003P2UMNK
i have them all on the same channel so one switch turns on all may machines at once. kills power completely
no need for a switch on the machine. if the machine has a switch it i always on

Me too. All my pre 68 games have the kick switch , I also use those remotes on beer signs .

How many amps are those good for?

I need the button and frame (don't need the bolts or guts) pictured below. It is on several pitch and bats and some other machines in 70s. The outer bolt pattern measures 2 inches on center. Any condition works.

Thanks!

Mike V.

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You were spot-on! The bar from eBay was $25.50 shipped, and the slide was an extra $15 as predicted. I didn't have to pay extra for shipping, though.

This adaptation looks pretty straight forward, and I think it will be a good solution for a missing Gottlieb EM lockdown bar.
Thanks to pinhead52 for also pointing me in the right direction.

You did very well with free shipping. I used to have to pay around $18 extra.

I had to whittle away the notch in the front. But next time, I think it would be much easier to pass a circular saw across it and be done lickity split.

The shark fin system is also much better if you plan to operate the game in a rough location.

I'm looking for a Williams Chime Unit for my re-import Fan-Tas-Tic. Ideally it would be the early model with A2-26-1025 solenoids and the four in-a-line male Jones Plugs. I can adapt the more common later Chime Units that used A2-26-1300 solenoids and two side-by-side male Jones Plugs if that's all I can find.

I'm willing to pay for the parts and for the shipping. The Chime Unit can be in just about any condition but I would prefer original parts.

Thanks Pinsiders!

The remote control part is cool.
I use a power strip that is long enough to come out to the front of the machine.
I also turn the machine off by the switch in the cabinet.
I am kind of paranoid about lightning strikes and surges so the redundant shut off makes me feel better.

Looking for Williams A-6338 Baseball bat driver arm assembly for 1964 Grand Slam. If you don't have the full piece, I'd be thrilled if you just had the circled flat part. Please let me know if you have one, and as always, thanks in advance!

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Thanks Pinsiders! Found one on eBay.

Picking up an odd lot of 60's Williams em parts. If you've contacted me in the past regarding 60's Williams stuff I'll do my best to get back to you but couldn't hurt to remind me.

EM-Pinman needs a williams ball lift cutout for his KingPin...

Thanks for thinking of me Ken but Scott at Pinball life sent me a couple final prototypes to keep as reproductions will be available soon to the public. I'll let you guys know when they are available.

See thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-williams-ball-lift-guides-reproduction#post-3370880

My Heat Wave is almost 100% now, but I still need a lockdown bar and one of those metal backbox backs.
Anybody holding?

What does it measure and look like? I probably have a dozen bars...one might work.

I need a plastic like the one above the 3 of clubs on Card Trix or Flip a card. Looks like a stuffed dog that a kid might have in their toy box.

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I'm looking a complete ax relay assembly Gottlieb Neptune machine.

looking for repairable playfields for MIBS and Domino

Looking for a good set of plastics for Far Out/Out Of Sight. Yeah, I know, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Or maybe you have a single thats the one I need.Thanks!

Wanting to purchase an original GTB World Fair pf spinning disc. I have a repro but would prefer the original which includes an outer metal rim. Thks.

Dear EM addicts!
For the renovation of my Bally Amigo chime unit, I am looking for some of these black ruber plunger stops, part number R-231-14. These are 1/2" in diameter and fit into a 3/16" hole. Tried some Williams part # 23-6577, but these are made for a bigger hole of 1/4".

Any idea where to get these? Or does anyone have any of these around still? They were used on the Bally SS chimes as well - thus not "EM" only.

Thanks so much! Axel

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Try a local hardware store, or McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-bumpers/=16807ft
--- or maybe drill out the hole to accept the Williams bumpers