Ah, the early version of pinball inflation.

I’m looking for a A-1084 #28 gottlieb coil
It’s for my 1962 Sunset.

Pinball Resource is your best source for vintage Gottlieb...

pabst-pbr-me-asap-sticker (resized).jpg

Did you grab it? It looked rough

Another Pinsider bought it. I forwarded a lead from AvidListener on a backglass and the fact that Wade is still accepting preorders for his upcoming repro playfields.

Needing a lock down bar for a gottlieb world champ. I have got 2 from another pinsider and both do not work...

Try this:
http://www.pbresource.com/signatur/gtb-d1008t.jpg
GTB-D1008
This lockdown bar was generally used on:
~1954 ~ 1960 Games
http://www.pbresource.com/lockdb.html

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-1084

Here's a long shot... need the circuit board that drives the rotating lamps for the motorcycle jumping the busses on Evel Knievel EM. Yes sorry to say there is a digital section to to this classic rare Electomechanical game.

May have to break down and fabricate one.

Ken

How can that PCB be missing? I know it is mounted in the back box.
It only goes to that one game?

It would be missing if I was trying to adapt a different game hardware to this game function. I know it was a silly request thinking somebody may have parted out one of these games.

A very similar light effect is the home run fireworks on line drive and upper deck p&b.
That should be easier to find.

Do you have a schematic of the board?

I'm looking for the metal part that attaches under the apron of a late 50's Williams woodrail. The part prevents the ball from falling back onto the plunger and is also part of the shooter alley. Here is a photo of he part I need from a 1959 Williams Sea Wolf.

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I don't think there is one... Maybe an engineers drawing...
I think the board used simple Quad "D" flip flops...
I believe it uses the +6 volt AC from the lamps and re-regulated to +5 volts DC.

Ok gang, got a solution for my replacement digital board on an EM...

My next ask is a repeat... on the late 70s Gottlieb EMs there is a plastic housing used for the 100K light on certain 1p and multiplayer games, somebody actually dug out the part number but danged if I could find it on this thread... actually here's a pic, C-16484 if Im reading this right. (got off my butt and took a pic)

As you can see this one has seen better days. Anyone got another to sell me and make my life and this machine whole?

And added bonus/chuckle of the day, here's a reel from the same machine. The only thing I can surmise is one of the scoring relays locked on/caught fire or at least put out extreme heat to melt the reel and this light divider. Amazingly enough the reel functioned perfectly but I replaced it anyway.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Anybody doing lots of Bally EM restores may want to buy these pf metal "bells"

ebay.com link: itm
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I was looking into my Rocket III and noticed what appears to be a 'heat sink' modification on the Anti-Cheat relay. Of course I had to do further investigation!

Bally Anti Cheat Mod (resized).jpg

Using my Flir IR camera I discovered that one of the switches in the relay was getting up to 400 degrees! The 'heat sink' was clearly not doing anything...

Assuming a poor switch connection as a cause for the heat, I started looking deeper and discovered some toasty parts. Does anyone know where I could find a donor Anti Cheat relay assembly? I checked the PBR ones listed but the stamped numbers are not aligning to what I have here. (unless there is a cross reference available?) Additionally, in the parts manual its listed as a Z-1116 frame with a 3312 coil.
Any help is appreciated.

Bally Anti Cheat (resized).jpg

OUCH!

Ok gang, yet another request, I know Im over the limit for the month but I gotta ask.

I need a connecting rod to a late 70's gottlieb coin door, the one that ties the eject rod to the levers that push down on the coin mechs. Without it the eject rod just flops around. I could probably hack something, bolt in a fuse holder etc but we'd hates that.

So the heavy rod that does the coin return/eject, not the light coin lockout rod... Anybody got a trashed door that they could scrounge this part from? Got a machine in for cleanup and its missing...

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Ken, let me look when I get home. I probably have one on a spare door.

but only if its a junk door. turns out i have a spare door too but its to good to ruin for this part

This is something that I was wanting to 3D print, but need one to copy. I just realized I have one in my C37, so I will take a stab at it. It'll need to be printed in PETG for heat resistance, even still would probably be best to run an LED in that spot just so it doesn't melt down again in the long term.

Sad news. My spare door is also missing the same part. Sorry

thanks Murph, i did find one on a ss door, had to bring over the supports too.

thankd everybody, im good here now.

I recently bought a new rod from PBR for a 2 coin slot setup.

Dave

Yea, you never know what Steve has squirreled away, the web site oh so helpful. but we love him/would be in a bad shape if we lost him.

So I stole a rod off of a ss door that came in on a dragon cab I picked up for parts. Its not like I'll ever need a SS door eh?

thanks everybody, fire drill over for the moment.

Looks like I was able to create a decent copy of the 100K light baffle in CAD. I need one for a Fire Queen to replace one that is completely melted down. You can see in the pictures the one out of my Centigrade 37 is also looking a little toasty, although it still works

Anyway, the first prototype print came out pretty nice. PETG prints a little rougher, but it also is more heat resistant than the normal plastic. Just need to make a few tweaks to the design and I should be able to print out the final version by tomorrow.

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20210606_222800 (resized).jpg

Fantastic!

good stuff, ill take a couple!

Looks like I have a dead coil in my Gottlieb score motor, it's assembly B-7760. Before I attempt to rewind the coil, does anyone have the coil for this or have a part # that could be sourced at a parts supplier?

Thanks

PBR

What game? Ive got a couple of spare 70's score motor if pbr cant float your boat.

Anyone have a bell assembly bracket? I have a 3 inch bell where the bracket broke off that holds the bell shell. I know PBR sells the whole setup but I figured I’d ask here first. Thanks

It's a Card Whiz.

My friend, with the "I can do that" attitude, is going to rewind it and see where we end up.

For anyone else looking, PBR does reproduce the motor assembly. You can special order just the coil but it's ~2 weeks and half the cost of the assembly.

I need the centre plastic for a spirit of 76/pioneer/New York. The one by the kick out hole. Anyone got one I can buy? Thanks.

That plastic part is always broken....
PBR should have an "easy break" lineup of plastics for this problem.

I’m sure I have one, but I’m away from home working until this Friday.

Thanks for checking

Looking for a blue tray liner if anyone has a spare. Steve only has the green. Before I have to scan it, change the color, find the right paper, and reprint it I figured I’d ask.

1971 ASTRO in need of a power switch (on/off) and a cover. I can buy the cover online, elsewhere, but I can't find a switch for the underside of the cabinet. Anyone able to help?

lows carries the switch, or even Ace hardware...

Is the metal switch plate there? Might need one of them too. Also, look for a switch that has a metal body where it is threaded. The plastic ones break just breathing on them.

Where can I get that metal plate? I see it missing. Someone just took it ALL out.

Looked all over the stores and no metal plates to be found.

During covid, I did manage to install a plastic one without it breaking.
But of course, I had a mask on..

I have this one that I believe is an exact match to what you had. Measures 2 inches from hole center to hole center. Tested and working:

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Mike V

Yeah that is the one. Hit it with a wire brush and it will look fine. I convert the older games that came with the kick switches over to regular switches. It takes drilling out the bottom of the cabinet, installing a block of wood and a little wiring. I've ended up 3D printing the parts because the plates and covers are hard to find. I always prefer the real thing and understand completely the purists who won't use 3D printed parts, but these are far better than nothing and I love being able to turn my Dodge City on with a regular switch:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1312-space-coast-pinball/04942-switch-cover-and-plate-fits-various-gottlieb-

As for the switches, I usually put toggle switches in because they seem the sturdiest. The pushbutton with the clear plastic are the ones to avoid like the plague. Also there are two hole sizes for the switches and two different switch plates. Take the plate with you when buying the switch. The switches with the screw terminals, I remove the screws and solder directly to the remaining tab and threads.
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Funny.... funny!

I'll take it. PM me the address for the unmarked singles in a plain, brown envelope.