(Topic ID: 93586)
Linked Games
"300"
Gottlieb, 1975-
2001
Gottlieb, 1971
-
8 Ball
Williams, 1966
-
Abra Ca Dabra
Gottlieb, 1975
-
Amigo
Bally, 1974
-
Aquarius
Gottlieb, 1970
-
Atlantis
Gottlieb, 1975
-
Bank-A-Ball
Gottlieb, 1965
There are more than 8 games linked to this topic.
Click here to show all linked games
Click here to show all linked games
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Jets_1479:OMG! Thank you!!!
I’ll PM you as well!
Lets us know. If PinballAir hasn't, I'm 99.9% I have..
Quoted from insight75:OK fair questions.....I will sort out exactly what I need and post. Thank you.
PM me. I'm coming to the end of a project and have an entire bally cloth wiring harness I can hack up and send you
I am looking for a credit reel for a 73 williams upperdeck. I am assuming all williams credit wheels for that year are the same regardless of pinball game. I don't have original so I have no clue as to how many credits etc.
Quoted from PinballAir:This is the spring i have
[quoted image]
If that is the credit unit, then it is the stronger 130-907 spring.
Garland, TX
vec-torQuoted from PinballAir:It is the credit unit. Couldnt it just be wound less?
I think it is the gauge or length? I know it is to drive a more heave layered
load from the pcb contact plates.
I m working on a Casino and it uses two 130-907 torsion springs...
all other units in the game use the lighter 130-905 torsion spring.
I need to take some of the units apart to compare the springs...
Quoted from gawlicd:I am looking for a credit reel for a 73 williams upperdeck. I am assuming all williams credit wheels for that year are the same regardless of pinball game. I don't have original so I have no clue as to how many credits etc.
I checked my Upper Deck and I have an extra reel that goes on there
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Mike V
Thanks for the extra steps and effort! Let me know what you find out? Also if you have a 905 I would mind getting one from you? I sent you a pm as well
Quoted from vec-tor:I think it is the gauge or length? I know it is to drive a more heave layered
load from the pcb contact plates.
I m working on a Casino and it uses two 130-907 torsion springs...
all other units in the game use the lighter 130-905 torsion spring.
I need to take some of the units apart to compare the springs...
Quoted from Playdium:Looking for a clean door and frame for a Gottlieb Golden Arrow.
Did you check Ebay? I saw a few on there but not sure of the exact type for that machine.
Quoted from insight75:Did you check Ebay? I saw a few on there but not sure of the exact type for that machine.
I did, nothing correct though.
Quoted from Jets_1479:Anyone have the small metal cover that goes over the coin switch on a Bally EM? And also 2 12” sections of any color cloth wire?
[quoted image]
How about all this wire and the switch cover
Mike V
image (resized).jpgIm looking for the kicker and the wire form for a williams skyway if anyone has one they want to get rid of. I plan on a re theme and would like to work this in on the project.
How about perfect! Sending you a PM
Quoted from RacingPin:How about all this wire and the switch cover
Mike V[quoted image]
Quoted from Playdium:I did, nothing correct though.
this one?
ebay.com link: Gottlieb 1976 Sure Shot EM pinball machine coin door assembly
Hi guys, I need help either sourcing or repairing a broken motor switch on a 1972 Gottlieb Jungle. One of the little white spacers that enables two normally-closed switches to open in tandem broke off at Motor 2B. (As a result, the game won't ever fully reset because 2B controls the lock-in power on a bunch of relays in the reset path).
Can someone either help me source a blade or full switch with the spacer intact that I can put back into the stack, or else guide me on how to do this if I order a new blade and new spacer from PBR? What information would you need? Happy to pull this to a separate thread if it doesn't fit here, but since it's parts related I thought I'd start here.
Thanks!
Quoted from goldenboy232:Can someone either help me source a blade or full switch with the spacer intact
I almost dread responding because with the snow, it's a pain to get to the barn (haha),
but can you shoot a pic of the blade with measurements of the length of the white
spacer and the distance the rivet is from the switch stack end of the blade? I'm sure I
have one, but once done there, I want to make sure I get the exact right one..
Quoted from PinballAir:Pbr sells these as lifters in various lengths
And you just lightly melt the tit through the hole in the leaf. Very easy. Which also eliminates having to take a motor switch stack apart.
Quoted from MikeO:And you just lightly melt the tit through the hole in the leaf. Very easy. Which also eliminates having to take a motor switch stack apart.
True... I add as a precaution, a small drop of super glue or contact cement to the base of the plastic lifter.
On bowlers, when missing, many times the risers are no where to be found, and I have so many switches, I replace the blade, but if a good riser is there, melting and epoxy seems like a good way to go..
Quoted from MikeO:And you just lightly melt the tit through the hole in the leaf. Very easy. Which also eliminates having to take a motor switch stack apart.
Thanks guys for all of your responses. Mopar, I can just order a spacer from PBR and to melt it, I guess just a quick touch from a soldering iron?
Quoted from goldenboy232:quick touch from a soldering iron?
I would add a small drop of superglue to hold it in place, then heat an old kitchen knife
and press the backside tit. Or if you can just peen the back tit.
Like said above by@PinballAir.
Quoted from vec-tor:I would add a small drop of superglue to hold it in place, then heat an old kitchen knife
and press the backside tit. Or if you can just peen the back tit.
Like said above by@PinballAir.
And I'm assuming this is a 3/16" one (not a 1/4" one)? The only reason for my hesitation is it LOOKS like if it had the full "tit", it could extend to 1/4" perhaps.
IMG_0326 (resized).jpgQuoted from goldenboy232:And I'm assuming this is a 3/16" one (not a 1/4" one)? The only reason for my hesitation is it LOOKS like if it had the full "tit", it could extend to 1/4" perhaps.
[quoted image]
Test fit it... use contact cement. If it is, clean the area and use a drop of super glue.
and then coat over the two substrates with contact cement.
I was able to fix it using the existing part. I removed the stack from the motor, cleaned the blade and the lifter with alcohol, then added a dab of super glue and clamped it for 30 minutes with a pair of foreceps. Then I hit the back of the blade gently with a couple of strokes of the soldering iron. Put the stack back together and the game is playing 100%. Thanks guys!
Quoted from goldenboy232:I was able to fix it using the existing part. I removed the stack from the motor, cleaned the blade and the lifter with alcohol, then added a dab of super glue and clamped it for 30 minutes with a pair of foreceps. Then I hit the back of the blade gently with a couple of strokes of the soldering iron. Put the stack back together and the game is playing 100%. Thanks guys!
I'd still order some of different lengths to have around, as well as a few blades of various thicknesses (light/medium/heavy), and while you're at it, perhaps a few contacts too (both low/high voltage)... it's so nice to have them when you need them, and they're cheap.
Quoted from Dono:I'd still order some of different lengths to have around, as well as a few blades of various thicknesses (light/medium/heavy), and while you're at it, perhaps a few contacts too (both low/high voltage)... it's so nice to have them when you need them, and they're cheap.
Yea, always good to have spares. Whenever i order from pbr i order at least 2. Of course Im restoring 1-2 games a month and go through a lot of parts.
Quoted from Dono:I'd still order some of different lengths to have around, as well as a few blades of various thicknesses (light/medium/heavy), and while you're at it, perhaps a few contacts too (both low/high voltage)... it's so nice to have them when you need them, and they're cheap.
I didn't know there were low/high voltage. Never had to replace any yet but good to know.... so much to learn!
Quoted from insight75:I didn't know there were low/high voltage. Never had to replace any yet but good to know.... so much to learn!
There are also different gauge thickness leafs. When I rebuild a broken leaf I use a micrometer to measure the original leaf and replace with the same gauge/thickness.
Hmmmm, i should do that too.
I usually give it the, "well that one bends hard or that one bends easy".
I always have all 3 flavors in stock, with lifters and contact points.
Quoted from chad:I need a whole head assembly for Gotrlieb Surf Champ 4 player version.
That's funny I need the whole body for a Surf Champ!! (and head)
Quoted from insight75:Curious since we're on the subject here....how to you replace the contacts?
I have used the tip end of a inline contact connector crimper.
Some people have the very small contact form tool that is a tubular clincher...
Some people just tap the back tit with a hammer.
Quoted from Murphdom:I’m looking for a couple leaf switches for a United shuffle alley. Two of mine in the alley under the rollovers are missing the plastic spacers.
[quoted image]
Could you just get new spacers? PBR stocks them.
Alberto
Quoted from Peruman:Could you just get new spacers? PBR stocks them.
Alberto
Thanks for the tip. I planned on placing an order tomorrow anyway.
Quoted from vec-tor:I have used the tip end of a inline contact connector crimper.
Some people have the very small contact form tool that is a tubular clincher...
Some people just tap the back tit with a hammer.
I set the new contact face down on an anvil. Then lay the leaf on it with the tit in the proper hole. Then peen it down with a hammer. Done.
The most common contact I find I need to replace is on the leaf that Gottlieb EM pop bumper links actuate. They hold up fine peening them.
Quoted from Murphdom:I’m looking for a couple leaf switches for a United shuffle alley. Two of mine in the alley under the rollovers are missing the plastic spacers.
[quoted image]
Quoted from MikeO:I set the new contact face down on an anvil. Then lay the leaf on it with the tit in the proper hole. Then peen it down with a hammer. Done.
The most common contact I find I need to replace is on the leaf that Gottlieb EM pop bumper links actuate. They hold up fine peening them.
Bingo! True, true, true.
Quoted from PinballAir:Not bally.
But you are welcome to it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, I'm in need of one or two of those! Looks like Marco's and PBR is out of stock...ugh Anyone know where to order from?
Switch Actuator (resized).jpegPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
