"300"
Gottlieb, 1975
2001
Gottlieb, 1971
8 Ball
Williams, 1966
Abra Ca Dabra
Gottlieb, 1975
Amigo
Bally, 1974
Aquarius
Gottlieb, 1970
Atlantis
Gottlieb, 1975
Bank-A-Ball
Gottlieb, 1965Quoted from pinhead52:Only $137 plus shipping from pbr, what more could you want?
Watch ebay, occasionally there is a deal there. I take doors and get them rechromed for $60 then add them to a job for $80. But when they have been drilled cant rechrome and I just toss.
Ken
Ok who can I send my doors to for that price???
Quoted from Colsond3:Damn. I was hoping it wouldn’t come to removing hardware. So be it, but doesn’t make sense for serviceability. Thanks man!!
Quoted from Catch86:I'm working on a Jolly Joker and had the same problem. I had to remove the brackets at the bottom. See the pic.
[quoted image]
Had the same problem on a Williams Beat the Clock
Quoted from John_in_NC:Ok who can I send my doors to for that price???
Al's Plating
5.07 Google reviews
Manufacturer in Fort Worth, Texas
Address: 2829 Bryan Ave, Fort Worth, TX 76104
Hours: Open ⋅ Closes 5PM
Phone: (817) 921-2551
Give them a call, expect to wait 2 months. I would send a batch, like 4 doors at once. Brushed in the raised area, polished chrome in the inset. I can post a pic of a completed door
Quoted from PBEarwood:Would love to find a replacement door for a 1971 Gottlieb 4 Square. The current door was drilled in three places to install a security bar.
Updated to include picture.
[quoted image]
Where the rest of the door is nice (which makes the fact they drilled a nice door even more annoying) I remove the hasp, polish up the door and install chrome plated hole plugs like these and call it good. Although I usually get mine from Ace Hardware in the specialty drawers.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-Chrome-Hole-Plug-800364/204331364
I can understand how an operator may install the hasp. I have an otherwise gloriously perfect coin door on my Quick Draw except for one hole where the operator drilled the door and installed an add credit button when he sold it for home use. He was supposed to be smart enough to install free play in a simpler fashion. Rant off.
I always solder a male / female jumper wire on the credit unit. I label it as "free play" and show it to the buyers of my ems.
They are always set up for coin op as well.
The buyer can then choose which way they would rather go.
I do not agree with those who bend the switch to always make contact. Newbs cannot find it and do not know how to change it if they did.
I also do not like new buttons drilled into a unit.
Quoted from PBEarwood:Would love to find a replacement door for a 1971 Gottlieb 4 Square. The current door was drilled in three places to install a security bar.
Updated to include picture.
[quoted image]
This is the Gottlieb door I have. It was on a Soccer. It’s in good shape but has a lot of bumps.
A0D6C589-0A98-42E7-AFC3-FA9099D6403A (resized).jpegC20D1DCC-2A4A-4226-9943-39B50CC1C953 (resized).jpegQuoted from MikeO:He was supposed to be smart enough to install free play in a simpler fashion. Rant off.
Speaking of which, I’m having trouble finding a momentary button switch small enough to live in a 1957 Williams coin return but mighty enough to handle the 50 volts. It’s either that or put in a switch under the cabinet, but I don’t like that option. Don’t want to drill the front of the cabinet for a free play button.
Quoted from PBEarwood:Would love to find a replacement door for a 1971 Gottlieb 4 Square. The current door was drilled in three places to install a security bar.
Updated to include picture.
[quoted image]
I have a coin door shell of the right style/vintage as 4-Square. It was a pair of very shallow dents that could be pounded out from behind, along with some corrosion that you'd likely want to replate, or at least rebrush. Otherwise, the door shell is in pretty decent shape.
Quoted from pinhead52:Al's Plating
5.07 Google reviews
Manufacturer in Fort Worth, Texas
Address: 2829 Bryan Ave, Fort Worth, TX 76104
Hours: Open ⋅ Closes 5PM
Phone: (817) 921-2551
Give them a call, expect to wait 2 months. I would send a batch, like 4 doors at once. Brushed in the raised area, polished chrome in the inset. I can post a pic of a completed door
Here's a pic of the rechromed door. the graining is not a deep as the new ones from Steve but still quite nice
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from pinhead52:Here's a pic of the rechromed door. the graining is not a deep as the new ones from Steve but still quite nice
[quoted image]
Steve's doors look nice, but the graining on his is a bit much IMO compared to stock; yours looks perfectly fine!
Quoted from pinhead52:Here's a pic of the rechromed door. the graining is not a deep as the new ones from Steve but still quite nice
[quoted image]
Ken, that door looks very good. How much prep do you generally do before sending it for re-plating?
Lee
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:Ken, that door looks very good. How much prep do you generally do before sending it for re-plating?
Lee
none
I looked over my Williams Grand Prix manual and attempted to find the part via Williams parts manual from Planetary Pinball, with no success. It is a spring that is on the spinner unit. Part number and where I could purchase would be greatly appreciated. Ripping the spinner without this assembly working correctly is frustrating. Pictures below.
7A1011AC-B6B9-4B59-89F1-89595D4040B3 (resized).jpeg
0281EA57-2350-4241-B5AC-0A5E9230FA9E (resized).jpeg
30E18C71-2FD1-45ED-83F1-B05CF5334CD8 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Captive_Ball:It is a spring that is on the spinner unit.
From the 1978 Williams Parts Catalog:
Williams 1977 catalog 12 step unit (resized).jpg
/Mark
Quoted from MarkG:From the 1978 Williams Parts Catalog:
[quoted image]
/Mark
Captive_Ball Now that you have the part number you can order it from Pinball Resource. If you’ve ordered from them before you can email your order. If not you’ll have to call in your first order.
Quoted from MarkG:From the 1978 Williams Parts Catalog:
[quoted image]
/Mark
Quoted from bluespin:captive_ball Now that you have the part number you can order it from Pinball Resource. If you’ve ordered from them before you can email your order. If not you’ll have to call in your first order.
Thank you both! I have ordered from PBR a handful of times before.
Quoted from PBEarwood:Looking for a right slingshot plastic for a Gottlieb 4 Square. The one I have is broken and I'd like to replace it if possible. I've searched around and cannot find a replacement online.
Do you have all the pieces for the broken one? You could always have thin piece of clear plastic made and glue the pieces to it. I did this for a Domino and it works well.
_79_acrylic (resized).JPGQuoted from Peruman:Do you have all the pieces for the broken one? You could always have thin piece of clear plastic made and glue the pieces to it. I did this for a Domino and it works well.[quoted image]
A local pinhead uses mylar on to and bottom of the plastics to keep them together. Vid1900 created a good guide to fixing plastics:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repairing-plastic-playfield-features-onsite-vids-guide
Quoted from Peruman:Do you have all the pieces for the broken one? You could always have thin piece of clear plastic made and glue the pieces to it. I did this for a Domino and it works well.[quoted image]
Unfortunately I do not have the missing piece, I just acquired this pin.
Quoted from Playdium:Looking for a Williams spring #10A-178 "Pitcher Torsion Spring" for a pitch and bat.
you have a picture of what you need? i have a new spring for a wms world series
Quoted from boilerman:you have a picture of what you need? i have a new spring for a wms world series
Pitch Unit Spring (resized).jpgQuoted from pinhead52:I need I need i need... 1 or 2 Williams 4 inch reels. a little too aggressive cleaning.
ken
[quoted image]
Scotch tape and a large tip black sharpy
Quoted from pinhead52:I need I need i need... 1 or 2 Williams 4 inch reels. a little too aggressive cleaning.
ken
[quoted image]
There is a pinsider who makes the decals for the reels. You just tell him what you have for reels and he makes the strips to cover them. I have his info in my Pinside mail somewhere. Let me know if you need it and I’ll go digging.
Quoted from Murphdom:There is a pinsider who makes the decals for the reels. You just tell him what you have for reels and he makes the strips to cover them. I have his info in my Pinside mail somewhere. Let me know if you need it and I’ll go digging.
MikeO has some reels for me...
One more request, I need a reel mounting plate to a late 60s Williams game. The reels slide into a slot and then click into place with a metal strap. On this smart Set Im restoring one of the straps is broken off. Need a replacement plate for a 4 reel game.
I'd post a pic of the part but the game is at my buddy Bobs getting a few bugs worked out
pasted_image (resized).pngI am looking for a “100,000 WHEN LIT” blue (marbled) pop bumper cap like the broken one shown in photo below for a Gottlieb Harbor Lites (photo is from pinside, my machine is missing the cap). Steve has repros of these listed on his site, but I am hoping to get one that is marbled to match the other caps on the machine. Thanks!
032B7793-9900-4FC6-B051-B390923F8F59 (resized).jpegQuoted from nomo:Working to bring a very rough 1966 Williams Full House back to life. Looking ahead, does anyone have a better back glass and willing to help? PM me if you know of one. Thanks all.
[quoted image]
Have you looked through these threads? They were a big help when I worked on mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1966-williams-top-hand-aab-cards-babes-the-old-west
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-full-house
Quoted from Grauwulf:Sea_Wolf that seems like a part that could be modeled and 3D printed. Yours really looks like has seen some heat.
Yes it does. I think the former owner kept playing it with it broken and the switches on the 10 point relay would lock on and not release back and scorching it I assume. He finally bent one of the switches so they didn’t make contact.
I’d be interested to know more about modeling this part and the 3D printing.
In the short term you might be able to rearrange the switch stacks to use the undamaged slots in the actuator. That may require new or different switch stack screws and/or spacers but it wouldn't be a hard thing to do.
Quoted from MarkG:In the short term you might be able to rearrange the switch stacks to use the undamaged slots in the actuator. That may require new or different switch stack screws and/or spacers but it wouldn't be a hard thing to do.
Thanks Mark, I’ll see if I can do that this weekend
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:Looking for an 8 slot Bally switch actuator. I believe it’s a C-813. The one on mine is broken off in a couple of places. PBR and Marco Specialties are out of stock. Maybe there is a way to repair?[quoted image][quoted image]
Ouch! One of Bally's EM Achilles heel.
Maybe 3D print the part.
Quoted from Grauwulf:Sea_Wolf that seems like a part that could be modeled and 3D printed. Yours really looks like has seen some heat.
I had a Bally EM that had a wrong value, high current coil...
It did the same thing to the actuator.
Sometimes a quick fix causes more damage.
Quoted from jeffk:Have you looked through these threads? They were a big help when I worked on mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1966-williams-top-hand-aab-cards-babes-the-old-west
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-full-house
Thanks for the link. Quite impressive! I didn’t take mine that far apart, but have cleaned and cleaned for days now. I’ve found very similar issues with mine as you have shown. Especially the flipper area. Mine had a fire in that area! I’ve upgraded the coils and switches from a slightly newer donor. Many coils were in need of replacing throughout. When some more parts arrive, I’ll finally get to play a game in a few weeks. Still needing the plastic cover for the card wheels. This one might be my first to consider repainting the cabinet. Time will tell. More issues to address first. Thanks. Mike
2EC0A753-7880-4609-BB28-184E63FA5B24 (resized).jpeg4248A0D1-025A-4498-8BE1-6E198F4DBF0A (resized).jpeg6285A5DE-1E73-4B37-B79D-C8A102E98017 (resized).jpegF32C0E23-B7D3-4345-BD92-901E2FBE4B5D (resized).jpegQuoted from Grauwulf:I've got a 60's Bally I can check to see if I have one of those to take measurements off of. I just can't access it right now, it's buried right now.
This project machine has made me a patient man. Thanks.
I will look for the bally switch actuator.
In a pinch i have made them using laminate ( aka formica) and a dremel cut off tool.
Quoted from PinballAir:Not bally.
But you are welcome to it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That’s awfully nice of you. I’ll take my old actuator off this this weekend and see how close they are.
Thanks a bunch.
Danny
Since only one side is burned, can you just invert it?
It looks like there is only one switch stack using only one side and that side is burned.
Quoted from pinhead52:One more request, I need a reel mounting plate to a late 60s Williams game. The reels slide into a slot and then click into place with a metal strap. On this smart Set Im restoring one of the straps is broken off. Need a replacement plate for a 4 reel game.
I'd post a pic of the part but the game is at my buddy Bobs getting a few bugs worked out
[quoted image]
That's the nicest Smart Set I've ever seen... super job; always loved the art.
Quoted from PinballAir:Since only one side is burned, can you just invert it?
It looks like there is only one switch stack using only one side and that side is burned.
Yeah I think that’s a possibility. Mark G mentioned something similar so I’m going to need to check it out closer this weekend.
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