Looking for a Bally Time Zone Backglass for a friend
(Topic ID: 93586)
Linked Games
"300"
Gottlieb, 1975-
2001
Gottlieb, 1971
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8 Ball
Williams, 1966
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Abra Ca Dabra
Gottlieb, 1975
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Amigo
Bally, 1974
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Aquarius
Gottlieb, 1970
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Atlantis
Gottlieb, 1975
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Bank-A-Ball
Gottlieb, 1965
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Alamo Heights, TX
Longshot, but anyone have the plastic that goes around the right-hand side of the Pop Bumper enclosure on a Gottlieb Jungle (Jungle Life, etc.)?
I can order a new set from Pinball Rescue in Australia (when the resume shipping), but wanted to check here first in case someone has a set, or that one plastic, laying around.
Thanks,
Mark
Quoted from undrdog:My sleeves were dingy brown, so I thought it was age and yellowing. They cleaned up very nicely with Novus 2. Now they are bright yellow.
All the (old) ones that I have seen are also very brittle, so I just replace them.
Quoted from goldenboy232:Longshot, but anyone have the plastic that goes around the right-hand side of the Pop Bumper enclosure on a Gottlieb Jungle (Jungle Life, etc.)?
I can order a new set from Pinball Rescue in Australia (when the resume shipping), but wanted to check here first in case someone has a set, or that one plastic, laying around.
Thanks,
Mark
Try posting in this forum, and placing a wtb ad here on Pinside.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trade-your-plastics
Quoted from Murphdom:Looking for a Bally Time Zone Backglass for a friend
Try posting here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-for-backglass-and-translites-thread-buy-sell-trade/page/9#post-5666310
Quoted from Murphdom:Looking for a Bally Time Zone Backglass for a friend
Looking for lock down bar for Gottlieb 1971 4-Square. The one with the round posts instead of the blades.
Quoted from DCRand:Looking for lock down bar for Gottlieb 1971 4-Square. The one with the round posts instead of the blades.
that is the pin type with welded end caps... i have one PM me
Quoted from undrdog:bell clanger striker part needed Williams 1964 Heat Wave
This is on the match unit / one point striker
Is there a common hardware store substitute for this? I've got the main part, just need the washer or whatever it should be that strikes the bell.
[quoted image]
Pinball parts are not exactly off the selves...
Did you try Pinball Resource?
Ask for part B-5492-3
Or if you have a machinist close by...
Have them cut a metal rod/bar stock
and a new shoulder bolt for your part and re-pin the assembly.
Quoted from undrdog:Well, if its just a fixed piece of metal, I can cut and weld that.
The round "washer like" striker is not fixed... it floats on the shoulder bolt...
The shoulder bolt is pined to the step up linkage B-5492-3.
Carefully critique the picture you posted of the assembly and the assembly you have.
Quoted from boilerman:that is the pin type with welded end caps... i have one PM me
Hi, you can answer here, text, or call. David Randolph, 916-804-9000
Quoted from Pin-up:Hey guys,
I've had many shuffle alley and ball bowlers through here over the years and I just finished up the last one in my stock. Time to clear out all the extra parts as I don't plan on getting any more of these in the future.
Other than the photos attached, I do have several pin hoods that are near complete with parts as well. Let me know what you are looking for and lets make a deal to clear out some more space in my work shop!
I believe the frame and front coin box section are from an Aztec.
All of the play field lanes are near complete with wiring, switches, ect. and there are the proper rear puck stops that can be bolted on as well if needed. They have different connectors on them but I can easily move the correct set of switches and connectors to the correct lane that you are looking for. These can be shipped with a custom box that costs about $25 to be made and shipped to my place to pack and ship the lane out to you. You'd probably have to get a prepaid UPS shipping label and send it to me (45 lb weight and I can get you dimensions for the proper box as well. I do not know what the UPS shipping cost would be though.
Let me know what questions you have and what you are interested in and looking for.
I also have a couple boxes of parts from Rowe CD jukeboxes that can be sold off as well.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Also found a large box of mostly used pins that can go as well. Photos attached.
IMG_1805 (resized).JPGIMG_1806 (resized).JPGQuoted from Pin-up:Also found a large box of mostly used pins that can go as well. Photos attached.
[quoted image][quoted image]
shot you a PM
Quoted from leckmeck:I need the riveted board for a Gottlieb ball count unit. I think just about any mid-70s replay game will work.
The one on my Atlantis had two badly worn rivets. I tried to punch them out for replacement. Big mistake. I should have drilled them.[quoted image][quoted image]
did you ever find the coin box bracket you were looking for?
Quoted from pinhead52:leckmeck the loose disk in my pic has more rivets then you need but you can probably make it work
[quoted image]
Actually, that is the right number of rivets. Two are missing in my photo because they were removed. I’ll take it!
Quoted from leckmeck:Actually, that is the right number of rivets. Two are missing in my photo because they were removed. I’ll take it!
Steve Young at Pinball Resource repairs the discs...
Quoted from vec-tor:Steve Young at Pinball Resource repairs the discs...
Hey, I make $20-$40 a week off of the parts thread, stop messing up a good thing 
Quoted from pinhead52:Hey, I make $20-$40 a week off of the parts thread, stop messing up a good thing
i loose 20 to 30 a week from the parts thread
i got to stop giving stuff away and not charging for shipping...DUH
Quoted from boilerman:i loose 20 to 30 a week from the parts thread
i got to stop giving stuff away and not charging for shipping...DUH
But but we love you for it, even though you keep changing your avatar.
Quoted from pinhead52:But but we love you for it, even though you keep changing your avatar.
i only changed it twice in forever.. last time i changed it back because you said you kept missing my posts because the avatar was different. am i going to have to change it back for the sake of the AARP crowd ?
Quoted from vec-tor:Steve Young at Pinball Resource repairs the discs...
I shattered the bakelite on this disc. I might mail in Ken’s replacement and have PBR re-do the rivets. The fifth ball contacts are worn out like mine were. I wonder why that is.
Quoted from boilerman:i only changed it twice in forever.. last time i changed it back because you said you kept missing my posts because the avatar was different. am i going to have to change it back for the sake of the AARP crowd ?
i like this one
Quoted from leckmeck:I might mail in Ken’s replacement and have PBR re-do the rivets. The fifth ball contacts are worn out like mine were. I wonder why that is.
I had many worn rivets on ball count unit wiper boards. Usually the 4th step up rivet
on the add-a-balls which is the rivet that is hot when the Ball Count Unit's EOS switch
resets the Control Bank. I built the worn rivet up with solder, then form the solder with
a small file. Also, many times the Snowshoe (spring loaded) wiper is worn and not making
good connection with the also worn rivet. If the rivet isn't worn too bad, usually only
replacing the Snowshoe Wiper does the trick. Then of course I always lube the Wiper
Board..
Quoted from boilerman:i only changed it twice in forever.. last time i changed it back because you said you kept missing my posts because the avatar was different. am i going to have to change it back for the sake of the AARP crowd ?
Its ok Dave, you know how we hates change. Hopefully we can meet up in York and I can hit you with my walker.
Quoted from Mopar:I had many worn rivets on ball count unit wiper boards. Usually the 4th step up rivet
on the add-a-balls which is the rivet that is hot when the Ball Count Unit's EOS switch
resets the Control Bank. I built the worn rivet up with solder, then form the solder with
a small file. Also, many times the Snowshoe (spring loaded) wiper is worn and not making
good connection with the also worn rivet. If the rivet isn't worn too bad, usually only
replacing the Snowshoe Wiper does the trick. Then of course I always lube the Wiper
Board..
Ha! I know exactly what you’re talking about. That rivet on my Dimension’s ball count unit was torched. I filled it with silver solder and sanded smooth. Last time I checked on it, the damn thing was looking fried again. But it still works.
Steve, PBR sells the rivets you can install yourself. Last time I bought them I forget, but they were just a few cents each.
Quoted from JethroP:Steve, PBR sells the rivets you can install yourself. Last time I bought them I forget, but they were just a few cents each.
I have a rivet board on the workbench as we speak. And a pile of rivets. For the life of me I can't get a decent crimp.
I have an arbor press set up for 1/8" diameter rivets but these measure closer to 3/32" and the die in my arbor press doesn't work for $h#t.
What did you use to crimp them? Anybody?
Quoted from MikeO:I have a rivet board on the workbench as we speak. And a pile of rivets. For the life of me I can't get a decent crimp.
I have an arbor press set up for 1/8" diameter rivets but these measure closer to 3/32" and the die in my arbor press doesn't work for $h#t.
What did you use to crimp them? Anybody?
Hammer, punch & a light touch
Hi,
Does anyone have a decent 1970's wedge head coin door hinge, screws and the bar that the hinge screws in to?
I'm working on a Dimension and someone must have used Loctite on the screws. I was able to loosen 1 of the 4, but two heads are stripped and the third won't budge.
TIA
IMG_0368 (resized).JPGQuoted from DropTarget:I was able to loosen 1 of the 4, but two heads are stripped and the third won't budge.
Time to break out the Dremel. Cut the stripped heads off, remove the hinge, back out the screw with a pliers.
Quoted from undrdog:Time to break out the Dremel. Cut the stripped heads off, remove the hinge, back out the screw with a pliers
I may have to cut the heads to get the hinge off, but the screws wouldn't back out of the bar, so I'd still need the bar and new screws.
I don't know why an operator did what he did to this game, He really over did it on trying to keep people from breaking in. It's caused me mucho extra work on the restore. He must have had a lot of problems on his route.
Quoted from DropTarget:I may have to cut the heads to get the hinge off, but the screws wouldn't back out of the bar, so I'd still need the bar and new screws.
I don't know why an operator did what he did to this game, He really over did it on trying to keep people from breaking in. It's caused me mucho extra work on the restore. He must have had a lot of problems on his route.
Heat!!!, Heat!!!, Heat!!!. Get the screws HOT!!! Loctite dose not like heat.
Quoted from DropTarget:I may have to cut the heads to get the hinge off, but the screws wouldn't back out of the bar, so I'd still need the bar and new screws.
I don't know why an operator did what he did to this game, He really over did it on trying to keep people from breaking in. It's caused me mucho extra work on the restore. He must have had a lot of problems on his route.
Now if you had posted this two days ago I would have thrown it into the package thats on its way.
Quoted from pinhead52:Now if you had posted this two days ago I would have thrown it into the package thats on its way.
That answered my question.
Timing is........
.......Everything.
Quoted from vec-tor:Heat!!!, Heat!!!, Heat!!!. Get the screws HOT!!! Loctite dose not like heat.
It might not be loctite. I took a torch to it, the door was smoking, screws didn't budge. I wouldn't be surprised if this was tack welded. The rest of the machine would have been as difficult to break into as Ft. Knox with all of the "security" mods someone did to it.
Quoted from pinhead52:Somebody here I thought was looking for a Williams encap.
That's me. I don’t see this one. What search terms bright it up? Or, what's the seller's handle?
Quoted from catvilledoorman:Hello everyone!
Looking for a Bally Nip-It grabber mech, (Ballygator). Mine is 90% complete but missing connecting parts and bushings for where the wire hoop attaches to the driving mechanism. The parts book is very vague and doesn't give me enough info to fab whatever is missing. Detailed pics of both sides of the slider would really help. Thanks so much!
Rod Davis
Unfortunately, I do not have an extra mech to sell/trade etc. However, I just did get my machine back from a local expert that tuned it up!
My Ballygator is intact and is completely working. I would be happy to take any pictures that you need to help you out.
Please send me a PM so that I will be reminded to help.
Quoted from RWH:Hey will you post some pics of the PF on that Rancho? I'm not sure I've seen that one and it looks pretty cool from what I could see.
Here is a better photo.
6CB65092-39F5-4068-9F69-24A5BB8DFC2A (resized).jpegPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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