Bought a DH a few weeks ago. Tonight I was having some trough issues; so after fixing the boards l was play testing. Middle of ball 2 the flippers went dead, all lights went out.

MIDNIGHT MADNESS!!!

I forgot about that mode. Scared the crap out of me! Thought I broke the machine...

Yep and they're like $3 each at Marco. It's just the target face; so you'll have to rivet it back on. I just bought two this week.

It's that there is nothing behind that half of the target face except the edge of the lane guide to the left orbit. As the target flexes back it hits that metal guide and chips and breaks the plastic. I'm going to try and figure out some sort of back support for the target. They actually should have put a post in behind, but I'm going to try and come up with a solution without drilling a hole.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9119-7

Anyone having the issue where the ball launches so hard from shooter lane that the ball goes up over the two ramp flaps, goes airborne and hits the magnet opto bracket? I'd say 6 out of 10 times this happens so the ball never makes it to the magnet. Just sort of rattles around back there.

I think if there was a way to slow the ball down, so it's not hit so hard, it may help. My opto bracket has a nice 1/4" divot on the edge of the top of the bracket from 20 years of the ball whacking into it.

Just wondering if this is normal behavior or if I have to start digging further into this issue.

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Yeah it's the right coil. I spent a half hour last night adjusting the coil bracket, apron, etc, etc, etc. It's better but not perfect. I do notice it's launching up as it hits the first ramp flap that feeds the gun.

Does your first ramp flap, for the piece that loads the gun, have a slight bend to it or is it flat? I think that might be part of the issue.

Sounds like the opto in the HQ is flaky. Make sure it's clean first then inspect the solder pads for cracked solder joints. Reseat the opto connectors on the opto board under the playfield and then test the optos in switch edge test. Use a flashlight on the receiver and your phone set to camera to view the transmitter. iPhones (at least the 5) can't detect transmitter opto wavelengths but most other android phones work fine as well as digital cameras.

Mine rattles around back there too hitting the opto bracket for the magnet. I had to adjust the second flap for the trap door to the gun. That one seemed to start to get the ball to start hopping before it hits the ramp for the loop. Seems to be better but still get some weak, rattling shots to the magnet.

I believe gun lockup switch #77 is in the small subway between the ramp that lifts in the shooter lane and the VUK to the gun. When you select GUN to launch the ball a flap raises in the shooter lane and the ball goes down a subway before reaching the VUK to the gun. Switch #77 is in that subway. Probably need to be adjusted or a wire/diode/connector is broken.

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Make sure your pinballs aren't magnetized. Seems weird they'd be magnetized enough to stick to the magnet core. But, lay them all out on a hard flat surface, so they're touching, and see if you grab one if it separates or pulls the next one along.

I've never used one of those. If the white cut-off switch in the coin door has a conical end, I just hold in with my left hand and operate the service buttons for testing with my right. If the white cut-off switch has a mushroom looking end to it, then it has a service position. Simply pull until it locks in the service position and then use the service buttons.

I've had very good luck with J-B Weld bonding to wood. Get the two-part slow curing overnight stuff that is gray in color. Make sure you get rid of any clearcoat so it bonds directly to the wood. Make a cardboard dam inside the hole and fill in the divot. When it cures, remove the dam and you sand it down like wood. With a Cliffy over it that's all you need. Did a MB scoop hole and and an AFM under the main saucer repairs to the playfield and both have held up over 15 years.

Does anyone here have a nice translite with no scratches, folds, bends or missing artwork they'd be willing to sell? Every place online is out except for over in Europe and shipping from there is a killer. That would be my last resort. Thanks!

It just means you're lucky...

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Is yours missing? There's nothing on it that can't be fixed.

Biggest issue on those is the header pins get cracked solder joints. Reflow the solder on each pin. If it still doesn't work replace the diode.