My switch harness is out and on the table now. When I get home I will put up a pic. Also wanted to post some pics of some new wraps I printed and super glued on the coils just to make the restore really look good.

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one or 2 added spotlights,
back panel decal a must
side panel decals are ok
back panel lighting
cliffys a must
plastic protectors
trough light

back box - added a few blinkers for bridge lights...
sound - subwoofer

can't think of anything else that would be good...game doesn't need much

Here is

the switch that’s for my safehouse. Funny you mention the manual cause noticing a few things about that like coil tubes showed installed different then mine and others I have seen. As well as the assemblies for gun load and warehouse seem to be switched compared to manual. I believe it’s the right way cause all the holes for assembly’s are in right the spot. Probably a last minute production change after manual I’m thinking. Like the warehouse drop target.
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I see where it says the coil has been changed on the matrix label amendment for the top right popper coil #4(warehouse) from 24-900 to 23-800 which would be in accordance to the coils and assemblies I have for warehouse and gun load. So this suggests to me that they swapped the assemblies for each other. Compared to what the manual is saying.

Thanks that helps me out.

Can you guys give me a price check on this game. Any advice would be much appreciated

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If you want to have realistic dimming with leds installed I recommend the gi ocd board. It eliminated the awful strobing effect.

To clarify about the manual if you notice the manual says #4 top rt. popper (warehouse) is assembly #a-18791 and #5 gun popper is assembly #a-19543 but if you look under your playfield will notice by mounting hole locations the assemblies are swapped at least on mine and it’s original. Uploaded pics to show mounting locations. So the manual ? Not really sure. Lol

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Check out this guys DH restore with over 150 pics. Also has many other games on file he is pretty awesome at what he does.

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album107

Well, I finally got that dam*ed WAG off my display--3 arrests! That last shot felt good!

Well I was finally able to get DH all back together. This was a project that started as just a deep cleaning. Before you know it I had everything dismantled and was repairing ball eject holes and some minor airbrushing. I ran the playfield down to my buddies paint shop for some coats of 2 pac. I polished buffed and waxed the playfield smooth like glass. I then added the drop target feature to the warehouse with the guidance of this fellow pinsiders forum. All seems to be working perfect. I added cliffys and mirror blades and still have some Mylar I will I install near pop bumpers. I also added new plugs and pins to the pcb for the g.i. This is my only pin and needed love when I bought it 5 years ago but I had no idea what I was doing. After reading a lot about the hobby and having the time I was willing to go the extra steps which to me turned out to be well worth it. If anyone has any questions about the drop target I will do my best to help out. I really just studied this forum and did exactly what it says and it came out perfect.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-just-added-a-drop-target-to-our-dirty-harry

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Bump

A pair of slingshot plastics for DH up on eBay right now.

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Really excited to join the DH club today! I bought this really nice, original DH sight unseen, and, without ever having played DH before! I did a lot of research and I like Harry and his movies. This game seemed underrated and a great game for the money. I’m thrilled with it so far! Such awesome shots, especially that left side ramp, so smooth.

Question, do some DH pins have a drop target and some don’t?

Thanks!

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Congratulations, look like a really clean machine.

The way I understand it is that only the prototypes have the drop target.
I heard that it was removed before production, but it is still a feature in the code.
So technically you could drill out your play field and install one if you really wanted to.
I like it just fine without it.

Fun game, and yeah the ramp shot off the upper flipper is awesome (especially during multi ball).

My ball launcher gun was looking ugly. I sanded used krylon primer and krylon metallic. Many coats. Not sure how will hold up but looks better imo than what it was

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I've recently noticed that during the startup of a new game, or the 2nd or 3rd ball, that if I allow the ball to sit in the shooter lane for too long, the ball is automatically fired into the playfield and the machine goes into ball search mode. This takes about 10-15 seconds, after DH has said the obligatory" Grab the gun and Fire". There isn't a problem with the gun firing the ball when I depress the trigger, it just appears that there's a maximum time it will allow the ball to sit in the shooter lane before firing it on it's own. Is this normal?

When I get a new ball that’s when I usually walk away to check my phone use the restroom etc. so I’m thinking one of the opto eyes maybe not working and thinking a ball is missing. I have had it act up like that I unplugged the plugs on trough boards as well as the main and the switch plugs on the opto switch board under playfield cleared up my issues.

Just making sure. Are there no flashers behind the backglass?

No flashers just 4 blinking #545 lights and the rest are #555

Behind the bulletholes I presume.
Thank you!

Nah actually the four orange lights blink at the top of the bridge.

I have one at the top of first bridge pier, also lights up the "Williams" logo and three near the top of the buildings on the right.

I suppose it is where you put them.

I’m a big fan of changing the posts to clear and using the silicone rubbers. It really lets the light come through. The black rubbers and red posts are light killers. They just throw unwanted shadows all over the playfield.

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I'm so used to the red that the pics look weird with clear.

I am looking for this Alternate Translite. Anyone know where to get it?

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I typed in Dirty Harry pinball alternate translite in google search and a couple of different ones came up...plus original which I think you were also looking for.

On my ball launch there are more than a few times the ball wont make it around the top all the way to the lanes. If I am choosing ramp shot it doesnt matter bc the mag grabs it.
I tried replacing the plunger and moving it countless times to different positions. It looks like it bumps the outer rail when it gets up there. Besides the plunger what else can be adj to help get the ball to the top? I tried adj mag height as well

It’s actually the Metal bracket that holds the opto switches over the lame. It is a design flaw. It gets launched into sometimes causing it to roll back down.

Here’s my old post.

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The opto bracket for Magnet?
Is there s way to correct or lessen. Was strange I switched out the plunger and for a while it worked everytime.. then slowly reverted back.
thanks

there are 2 flaps in the shooter lane, the first one that loads the gun gets beat up. Is yours blown out in the center? i replaced mine because of this issue, it helped but i also get the problem at times with the ball not making it to the upper lanes and pops. You can also bend or adjust the ball guides.

I am interested as well. Maybe a slow motion video would show the problem? i feel like this is a universal DH issue.

I remember seeing that now.. didnt realize at the time that was causing my issue as well
thanks

Need a little drag on the ball so it doesn’t go so airborne. Every bodies issue at some point.

interesting it was always worse after waxing... I may try to move the plunger as far back as possible for little less force..

Anyone know where I can get a replacement light board for the 5 light "bullet" magazine awards? Used would be ok.

Is yours missing? There's nothing on it that can't be fixed.

I was finally able to improve the games play in having the ball reach the top lanes on the plunge. It’s not 100% but it works so much better than it did.
Will see how it holds up, but I pulled the shooter coil back as far as I could with the bracket. It now has a little slop but, the less force seems to cut down on the air my balls were getting.( that’s what she said)
Hope that can help someone

Good idea. I will give it a shot.

Light board is there just top light does not work. I touched up the connections and still nothing.

Biggest issue on those is the header pins get cracked solder joints. Reflow the solder on each pin. If it still doesn't work replace the diode.

Are the ramp flaps available to purchase or should i start thinking about fabricating some?

I haven’t seen them for the ramps. Other pinsiders might know someone who does fabricate them. I’m thinking you probably have to fabricate them.

Anybody think of a mod to put behind that target that keeps getting destroyed?

I'm thinking of modifying some sort of post sleeve...or maybe adding something to the back of the target to reinforce it...

Sorry not sure what target you are talking about could you post a pic please.

I am sure he is referring to the standup switch target next to the left ramp. I have never seen one without any damage. I have heard of people trying to add a metal backing and such, but don't think there is a solution for it other than a replacement. The gun shoots the ball with so much force on the target and ramp, that there is always some damage with the machines in the wild. Even the promo video for DH shows damage on that target.

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^^^^ Oh yeah right duh! My bad. Yeah when I restored mine I was able to switch with the one under gun and added all new stickers so mine all look perfect. I did bend the ball lane guide behind it out as far as target to hope to prevent damage in the future but time will tell. Plus being the owner knowing the damage the gun causes I only use it for the free ball in the feel lucky and choose the ramp in the beginning.

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They are super easy to make. PBResource sells the material, and a good sharp pair of scissors can cut it. I use a small punch to start the holes and a drill to finish them on a block of wood.

Do that before you cut them and use a good heavy glove to hold it still while drilling the holes as it is sharp material.