(Topic ID: 55507)

The Dirty Harry Club


By Mato

6 years ago



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  • 1,116 posts
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  • Latest reply 13 days ago by Milltown
  • Topic is favorited by 48 Pinsiders

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There are 1116 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 23.
#802 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

Just picked up a Dirty Harry in a trade. Really underrated pin. Lots of fun, and the wife likes it too!

I pulled the trigger as well some time ago, but it needed a heavy overhaul/strip down/clean(price was worth it). Patching up those ramps and magnum magnet felt like I was back in “arts in crafts.”
After I got it functioning again, I treated it to a fresh ColorDMD. It’s a keeper right next to BSD.
All shots toward the sides can create break away speed, but shots in the center of the field makes it a slow point and shoot game.
Great combos, plus a third flipper!
DH all day!
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#804 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

...and the wife likes it too!

thats for sure the most important ! keep it !
i mean... the wife, not the DH

joking of course, keep the DH too, its a nice/fun pinball

#805 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

Aw some! Thx Jersey!

No problem! Great pin.

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#806 1 year ago

I have a sample game for trade. Drop target at warehouse.

#807 1 year ago

DH club join day! Hey thanks for having me.

Plan to led and rubber her up soon. It's a solid, fun pin.

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#808 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

Thx. I’m trying to find the back area as well. Any link? Anyone bringing them to TPF?

http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/dirty-harry/dirty-harry.htm

1 week later
#809 1 year ago

Initial searches haven't turned up anything, so hopefully someone has seen this before.

On this DH I'm working on, if you choose ramp skill shot, the ball will bounce up into the opto bracket for the right loop, most of the time, it will bounce back down the loop and the magnet won't catch it. You can see it's been doing this a long time.

I took some slow motion video and it seems when it's launched clean through the "jump" entrance into the loop, it's going fast enough that it bounces higher into the bracket and rebounds back. Sometimes, it'll hit the plastic above the entrance, which slows it down enough that the magnet can grab the ball before it rolls back down the loop.

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#810 1 year ago

I found a similar issue with my machine. When I took everything apart to replace the magnet optos I found the ball gave a beating to the magnet core as well.

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It an also take a chunk out of your playfield if it goes on long enough.

Its not very technical, but secured a slight downward deflecting piece of cardboard at the end of the shooter lane to: 1. Take a bit of velocity out of the ball and 2. direct it slightly downward away from the metal bracket in your picture.

So far (several months) the fancy piece of cardboard has fixed the problem.

#811 1 year ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

I found a similar issue with my machine. When I took everything apart to replace the magnet optos I found the ball gave a beating to the magnet core as well.

It an also take a chunk out of your playfield if it goes on long enough.
Its not very technical, but secured a slight downward deflecting piece of cardboard at the end of the shooter lane to: 1. Take a bit of velocity out of the ball and 2. direct it slightly downward away from the metal bracket in your picture.
So far (several months) the fancy piece of cardboard has fixed the problem.

Yes, this magnet was seriously mashed and there's a good divot right in front of it. Got any pictures of your fix? It's a good idea. Maybe a thin metal flap could do it.

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Other issue I have is the ball falling out of the gun. Putting a rubber on the end of the rail hasn't helped. It looks like the front side of the "bowl" the ball is supposed to sit in is worn pretty good. Is there a replacement bracket available?

#812 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Yes, this magnet was seriously mashed and there's a good divot right in front of it. Got any pictures of your fix? It's a good idea. Maybe a thin metal flap could do it.

Other issue I have is the ball falling out of the gun. Putting a rubber on the end of the rail hasn't helped. It looks like the front side of the "bowl" the ball is supposed to sit in is worn pretty good. Is there a replacement bracket available?

I just recently experienced the ball falling out of the gun. The fix for me was loosening the screw to the wireform ramp and pushing the wireform “back” (think easterly position). This made the hole smaller for the ball to drop down into and thus killing the momentum of the ball rolling out of the gun.

#813 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

I just recently experienced the ball falling out of the gun. The fix for me was loosening the screw to the wireform ramp and pushing the wireform “back” (think easterly position). This made the hole smaller for the ball to drop down into and thus killing the momentum of the ball rolling out of the gun.

That's a good one, I'll give that a try. Thanks.

#814 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

I just recently experienced the ball falling out of the gun. The fix for me was loosening the screw to the wireform ramp and pushing the wireform “back” (think easterly position). This made the hole smaller for the ball to drop down into and thus killing the momentum of the ball rolling out of the gun.

Good idea!

3 weeks later
#815 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

I just recently experienced the ball falling out of the gun. The fix for me was loosening the screw to the wireform ramp and pushing the wireform “back” (think easterly position). This made the hole smaller for the ball to drop down into and thus killing the momentum of the ball rolling out of the gun.

This worked great, by the way. Thanks again for that!

Quoted from TractorDoc:

I found a similar issue with my machine. When I took everything apart to replace the magnet optos I found the ball gave a beating to the magnet core as well.

It an also take a chunk out of your playfield if it goes on long enough.
Its not very technical, but secured a slight downward deflecting piece of cardboard at the end of the shooter lane to: 1. Take a bit of velocity out of the ball and 2. direct it slightly downward away from the metal bracket in your picture.
So far (several months) the fancy piece of cardboard has fixed the problem.

I've been fiddling with a metal flap for this, but having various amounts of success (from the ball being knocked back down the shooter lane to no effect at all). That's without changing my flap. It's just added more variability to the issue. Anyone else have any ideas? I'm thinking maybe the ramp flap at the start of the shooter lane may be causing it?

#816 1 year ago

Led'd, cliffy'd, and polished smooth up and right at home. Even made the cut for living room real estate.

Up next is pinblades and pinstadiums. I'll post pics next week!

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#817 1 year ago

Just picked up my Dirty Harry today. Traded Cue Ball Wizard and cash for it. Have mirror blades, leds and some new plastic ready to go in.

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#818 1 year ago
Quoted from SYS6:

I purchased some blue and red flashers from ebay (item 142369686192) to install on my DH.
They are really bright, too bright to face the player directly and too bright to have running all the time. So I'm thinking I'll install then on top of the headbox, they're too small to be a topper like Getaway - each flasher capsule is about 1 inch diameter and 1 inch high. They do reflect nicely off the ceiling
I can build a little circuit to control when they come on and for how long based on a mode or a shot etc.
What do people think they should be linked too. I think Crime Wave and Shoot out as these do not come up that often. Other more frequent ones would be when safehouse is lit - but it seems a bit silly to advertise the safe house. Maybe when you enter the safehouse when it's lit. Maybe upon hitting a jackpot shot?
What do other DH fans think would work well to triger these flashers?

Well did you ever devise a "circuit"?

#819 1 year ago

very nice about the 44 bullet key chain

#820 1 year ago

Turned off the dimming feature. With the OpMax bulbs the strobe effect is entirely too much. Seizure inducing. The effects are integral as a part of game play, but dang, 150 dollars for an ocd board to make some lights flash just seems a hair on the side of absurd.

#821 1 year ago

Also, got the pingraphix installed. I can't recommend this product enough. The quality is superb. Installation was a relative breeze. Only had to curse four or five times.

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#822 1 year ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

very nice about the 44 bullet key chain

Thanks I added Bullet holes.

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#823 1 year ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

Probably a little overkill but I sanded the contacts and reflowed/put new solder on this little board and now it’s working like a champ.

I went this route with mine. The battery board from TNT Amusements.

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1 week later
#824 1 year ago

Maybe someone here has had this issue and can help. I’m having issues with my gun. Sometimes it loads a ball and fire then resets but other times when I fire the ball the gun will continue to swing back and forth and never reset. If I play with the trigger it sometimes resets. I took the launcher apart, changed the switch but still does it. Any ideas?

#825 1 year ago

Hello,
Has anyone converted Dirty Harry to equal sized back box speakers and equal sized holes in the back box? Did this with "The Addams Family" Had a new back panel made, used speaker kit and original pinsound before pinsound speaker kits were available. TAF in stereo is nice.
Virtua pin now has a ready made WPC back panel with equal sized holes for 5.25" speakers. Flipper Fidelity WPC kit has 5.0" speakers where one gets fitted with adapter to 3.0" hole. Pinball Pro kit has 5.25" speakers.
DH is fun and a keeper but not sure pinsound is needed so it would not be in stereo or simulated stereo. Just do not like the idea of a 5.0" or 5.25" speaker blocked by a 3.0" hole. I can hear the lop sided sound as it is stock. I guess shortest path to equal would be to block the larger hole with same adapter for smaller hole but really?
Looking Guess I answered my own question. Going with what fits together. Pinball Pro SWTR-2HF that comes with 5.25 inch back box speakers and Virtua Pin WPC speaker panel for 5.25 inch speakers. Could be adapted for pinsound later.

#826 1 year ago
Quoted from Aahzz:

Maybe someone here has had this issue and can help. I’m having issues with my gun. Sometimes it loads a ball and fire then resets but other times when I fire the ball the gun will continue to swing back and forth and never reset. If I play with the trigger it sometimes resets. I took the launcher apart, changed the switch but still does it. Any ideas?

It could be the gun cables are at their end. I had to replace mine a while ago.
I think I got the cable at Pinball Heaven (UK)...

#827 1 year ago

If you have not added a powered sub, try that before going to the hassle of reinventing the speakers. It makes a huge improvement in the sound.

#828 1 year ago

Added 15 months ago: Put in Virtua Pin back box panel with equal sized 5.25" Pinball Pro Speaker kit for WPC.
Dirty Harry is WPCs.

#829 1 year ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Have done this to a TAF and it is nice and clear. Currently stock DH sounds like it is over the phone now compared to others in the room. Want DH to balance with other pins in the room that have had similar done. All the games are in the basement of hand built 1958 house. Basement has boiler baseboard heat but no AC except what comes down the steps. For all the games to fit in the room, operate on the electric that is available they are all led so less heat and room still needs 3 fans in the summer. Powered subs on a bunch would not work and it is the basement. All outlets are raised, all games are on surge protected outlet strips mounted on the walls. Nothing electric on the floor. Learned this the hard way a few years ago during a hurricane when power was out. Had to run an inverter to the car and run the car for 12 hours to operate a small pump to keep the basement from flooding. Ruined the battery in the car and really did not like messing with electric rigging extension cords like this in water. But Pins First after Family and house. Have a small propane generator now that can run sump pumps etc. Of course this is the only time this basement has gotten this way since the house was built but lesson learned. Was not fun spent weeks cleaning up stuff that was stored on the other side of the basement in boxes. On the plus side was a good time to have basement entrance door replaced with one wide enough for pins to fit through without having to remove the door and trim every time.

May want to consider a dehumidifier for your basement if ventilation is poor. I don't imagine the pins like long term exposure to humidity.

#830 1 year ago

Does anyone make replacement ramps?

#831 1 year ago

Any ideas how to protect this expensive left ramp? I noticed (not my game in below image but my arrows added) that the metal protectors on the ramp both are “bent inward” from the banging they get from both the upper flipper and the playfield mounted gun.

My DH looks just like this and has the colored cliffy posts and they appear to be slightly narrower than the old black or yellow standby ...

Would a black or yellow rubber in these 2 posts help keep those metal protectors from popping back into the flat face of each side of the ramp? (And thus potentially save it from cracking over time).

Are there even “fatter” post rubbers that would help ? Even to the point that they make that ramp a little harder to hit.

Other solutions you all have thought about?

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#832 1 year ago
Quoted from MT45:

Any ideas how to protect this expensive left ramp? I noticed (not my game in below image but my arrows added) that the metal protectors on the ramp both are “bent inward” from the banging they get from both the upper flipper and the playfield mounted gun.
My DH looks just like this and has the colored cliffy posts and they appear to be slightly narrower than the old black or yellow standby ...
Would a black or yellow rubber in these 2 posts help keep those metal protectors from popping back into the flat face of each side of the ramp? (And thus potentially save it from cracking over time).
Are there even “fatter” post rubbers that would help ? Even to the point that they make that ramp a little harder to hit.
Other solutions you all have thought about?

I don’t have pics readily available of my Dirty Harry, but on all of my games with ramps or lock shots that have posts like that I also replace with fat rubbers. See my T2 below as an example.

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#833 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

I don’t have pics readily available of my Dirty Harry, but on all of my games with ramps or lock shots that have posts like that I also replace with fat rubbers. See my T2 below as an example.

Great idea. I just put those on my Fire (standard spec item). Can you still make the ramp with the gun?

#834 1 year ago
Quoted from MT45:

Great idea. I just put those on my Fire (standard spec item). Can you still make the ramp with the gun?

Yes, just a little tighter.

#835 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

I don’t have pics readily available of my Dirty Harry, but on all of my games with ramps or lock shots that have posts like that I also replace with fat rubbers. See my T2 below as an example.

So does anyone know what spacer or sleeve is used ABOVE these bell or taper post sleeves?

I cut some custom ones from some old straight post sleeves I had around but I’m sure there is a standard part.

In the image below (not my game) it’s the milky white colored thing above the yellow tapered post sleeve

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#836 1 year ago
Quoted from MT45:

So does anyone know what spacer or sleeve is used ABOVE these bell or taper post sleeves?
I cut some custom ones from some old straight post sleeves I had around but I’m sure there is a standard part.
In the image below (not my game) it’s the milky white colored thing above the yellow tapered post sleeve

So ... if you ever want to add bell shaped post sleeves to any game (DH included), Lloyd was kind enough to link the part at Marco

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mystery-spacer-calling-all-pinball-detectives#post-4377968

#837 1 year ago

Hello,
Thought may be of interest? Put this in after a few weeks of gathering all the pieces.
Dirty Harry back box speaker panel swapped with Virtua Pin back box speaker panel.

https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=117

New BB spkr panel has 5.25" equal sized holes for both speakers.
5.25" WPC Pinball Pro Speaker kit, includes cabinet subwoofer with cross over (Yellow? Black +. Black -.).
2 5.25" bb spkrs.
Back Box mounted balance knob for bb/cabinet spkrs includes wiring to bb spkrs.

http://pinballpro.net/shop/williams-wpc-complete-speaker-kit-swtr-hf/

Credit Dot Time and Date not set. Pinball Life NVRAM from Lock When Lit.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3666

Pictures attached.

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#838 1 year ago

Have a number of inserts that are in poor shape.

Anyone know of replacements available and suggestions to repair?

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#839 1 year ago

New inserts dont come with any graphics on them. Depends on how much work you want to do. You could just wax it, then throw some mylar over it and call it a day. It will stop more damage from happening. You could also print out some decals if you wanted. The real fix is to pull the playfield apart and do touchups then clear coat. But its probably more than you are looking for

#840 1 year ago

Hello everyone! I have finally purchased my first pin and it is no other than Dirty Harry. Very challenging machine I have to admit, as it took me 20 or so games just to get a replay. But was so excited to do so. The ramps are so tough and hitting a ricochet is insane. I’m loving this game the more I play it. The pin hasn’t been serviced or even cleaned for 15 years, but the guy I bought it from was super nice and I think I got a great deal.

I am adding a few things like leds and new rubbers, and was thinking about adding either decals or mirror blades. Which would look better? I already have on order the back decal.

#841 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Hello everyone! I have finally purchased my first pin and it is no other than Dirty Harry. Very challenging machine I have to admit, as it took me 20 or so games just to get a replay. But was so excited to do so. The ramps are so tough and hitting a ricochet is insane. I’m loving this game the more I play it. The pin hasn’t been serviced or even cleaned for 15 years, but the guy I bought it from was super nice and I think I got a great deal.
I am adding a few things like leds and new rubbers, and was thinking about adding either decals or mirror blades. Which would look better? I already have on order the back decal.

I like both but have the mirror blades installed (see below pic for a bit of them in the image)

However, the art blades look fantastic in this image from Robert Stone

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-dirty-harry-club/page/16#post-4095865

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#842 1 year ago

Installed the Dirty Harry police badge I got from Ebay - used a little E6000 to temp glue it in place on the apron wire

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#843 1 year ago
Quoted from MT45:

Installed the Dirty Harry police badge I got from Ebay - used a little E6000 to temp glue it in place on the apron wire

I love the badge! The mirror is sharp and really makes the table look nice. I also like the artwork too. I just don't know what I should do. BTW, I think I saw this particular pin on youtube doing some midnight madness...

#844 1 year ago
Quoted from Aahzz:

Maybe someone here has had this issue and can help. I’m having issues with my gun. Sometimes it loads a ball and fire then resets but other times when I fire the ball the gun will continue to swing back and forth and never reset. If I play with the trigger it sometimes resets. I took the launcher apart, changed the switch but still does it. Any ideas?

I’m having the exact same problem with mine. It calibrates good at the start of the game. Then sometimes continues to rotate after I fire it during the game.

#845 1 year ago

Working on my Dirty Harry Topper. Going to add leds that strobe with the game and possibly encase it with a plastic enclosure. Here is the work in progress.

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#846 1 year ago

Thought I'd touch up the safe house and warehouse a little bit. They looked a little blah.

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#847 1 year ago

That looks great, how did you paint the buildings and what did you use?

#848 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Thought I'd touch up the safe house and warehouse a little bit. They looked a little blah.

Buildings look fantastic... Nice work

#849 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

That looks great, how did you paint the buildings and what did you use?

It's rather simple really. The buildings have great detail but looks washed out being all one color. Just primer the buildings black and then drybrush some tamiya acrylics on them. Drybrush darkest colors first and lightest colors last.

#850 1 year ago
Quoted from MT45:

Buildings look fantastic... Nice work

Thank you.

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