The method I came up with years ago was to break the weld (may have been 2) that secured the "floor" of the U-turn weldment to the "walls". I could then reform the floor lower to just almost touching the playfield. Factory has it maybe 1/4" above the playfield surface? Bending mine down eliminated bounce outs. I don't remember the last reject I got...

[Edit] I should probably state that the floor is not completely loose after breaking the forward weld. It still has 2 or 3 welds in place.

Well, I'm shopping my zone right now so I shot some pics...

You do have to remove the Lock entrance welded assembly.

The red line shows the original position of the "floor" of the lock shot. The yellow circle is the weld to pop with a drimmel cut-off wheel.

TZ Lock Entrance Reject Fix 2 (resized).jpg

As designed this floor is 'uphill' until it gets past the middle of the U-turn, so when the ball enters and rattles it loses momentum and just rolls downhill, which is back out the entrance.

With the topmost weld popped, you can easily cinch a crescent wrench on the floor plate and bend it downward along the dotted yellow line until it's at the level shown, which is about 1/8" off the playfield.

TZ Lock Entrance Reject Fix 3 (resized).jpg

This makes everything past that dotted yellow line downhill toward the locks instead of downhill toward the entrance.

TZ Lock Entrance Reject Fix 4 (resized).jpg

So then, the ball can rattle around that entrance all it wants, it cannot defy gravity and roll uphill. Permanent and 100% effective.

IF your method (or others) doesn't satisfy, this will. Yeah, it's not a 1 on the difficulty meter, but it's a 10 on results.

I had terrible luck trying to fix the cup bounce-backs (on the right ramp wireform) with magnets, so I came up with a physical correction for that flaw as well.

If all else fails, this can be the "Parachute Fix".

Did you try the low-profile lock nuts?

http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Nylon-Hex-Jam-Nut-304-Stainless-Steel-p/130000.htm?1=1&CartID=0

Like this one. They are like 1/2 the height of the normal lock nuts.

Leave it uncorrected.

It's not a matter of easy or hard, it's a matter of hitting the shot perfectly only to see it dribble back out and drain SDTM. It is a design flaw in the welded assembly that causes rejects on direct shots when there shouldn't be.

And I would be OK with up to maybe 1/3 - 1/2 bounce outs...IF THEY DIDN'T DRAIN STDM ALMOST EVERY TIME from a reject! WITH EXTRA BALL LIT AND YOU'RE ON BALL 3 AND THE FREAKIN DOORKNOB IS LIT!

Oh, ahem...pardon me. I hope you understand and can forgive my flipout.