Working on a Take Five/Roy Clark.... a bunch of lights aren't working. Anyone have some quick tips on what to check to narrow down the issue, before I spend an afternoon digging into the thing with a logic probe?

I've got a partial playfield and a bunch of spare parts, so if someone needs a part and can send me a pic of what is needed, I might be able to dig one out

Bally runs on 43v, Allied Leisure/Fascination pins run on 24v, so a bally mech isn't going to work unless you find a compatible coil. Using some williams mechs from pinball life with the older 25V coils they have would probably be your best bet if you want to swap your mechs for better ones

Picked this up today! Boots but occasionally resets during attract mode, and three of the drop targets are broken

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Looks like it was @Stretch7? I'll send them a message...

I'm actually already working on modeling up my own model for 3d printing, but I can only print in PLA so not sure how they'll work

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Eros One isn't a gameplan is it?

So my star shooter (allied leisure) worked when I got it, but would randomly reset. Reseting the cpus fixed it for a while. So I replaced the sockets, and the big cap while I was at it. Now the game boots fine, no resets, but most of the solenoids lock on instantly. Anyone seen something like that before?

Anyone know how to diagnose a display issue like this?

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Sorry, star shooter. allied leisure. It does this even in display test mode

Got my star shooter booted well for the first time after replacing the power connector, but a little while later one of the drop target pairs locked on and burned up the coil. The schematics say that the transistor is a TIP3055, however when I look up that part number, it's not the right thing, it's a much larger transistor with a different package that won't fit. Does anyone know where to source replacements? Will any standard stuff like a TIP102 work?

Anyone know if there's an easy hack to put an allied leisure table on free play? Like just wiring the credit switch in with the start button or something? Or do I have to resort to "set the replay to 10k"?

I'm working on a 3d printed one right now. Still fine tuning a few things though, but I'd you've got access to a printer that can do something stronger than PLA I can send you the file

PSA to anyone with Allied Leisure/Fascination games (at least the early ones): there's apparently a small rubber pad inside the pops the cushion the travel of the plunger, and it also acts as a spacer. Without it, the top of the plastic pop ring is striking the bottom rim of the body before the plunger reaches the bracket, which I'm sure is gonna crack one or the other eventually. One of mine fell out and another was loose, so I just took them all out and re-glued them

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Picked up a Rotation VIII over the weekend! pasted_image (resized).png

Boots but goes dark when I try to start a game. Thinking there's something wrong with the motor board or motor and it's not turning when it should...

Does anyone know if you can just hook the solenoid voltage up to the motor directly to make sure the motor+gearbox+etc actually work?

Step 1 of troubleshooting is ruling stuff out. I want to rule out the motor as the issue. So I've posted, trying to confirm if it's possible to test it directly, since I can't confirm it from the schematics. Nothing that I'm doing is "shotgun", I don't do anything if I don't know it's safe. I'd rather fry the board than the motor though, I can always just make a new board if it comes to that (and it could, someone cooked a ton of traces on this one and it's gonna be a pain cleaning it up)

Do you know the details of bidirectional motor driver circuit design? I don't. And I'm not gonna read up on them from zero, attempt to apply that knowledge to this specific schematic, and then take a half educated guess and risk the motor. Trust me dude, I've looked at the schematics. And when there are six transistors and four op amps all feeding into each other, I know that I'm in over my head "just taking my time" to work through them. So I go to the place most likely to have other owners, who might know from experience (good or bad), whether you can drive the motor manually to test it.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but, if you don't know the answer to the question, you can just not respond! It's fine! I never said anywhere that I was going to just hook stuff together thoughtlessly and blow rare stuff up, I specifically am avoiding exactly the situation you're worried about. I've repaired hundreds of machines, some even rarer than this one, and I've never damaged anything irreparably. I don't need condescending pinball repair 101 warnings from people when I ask specific technical questions. (and please don't say you're not being condescending, I gave you the benefit of the doubt the first time but you're just doubling down on it)

All allied leisure games use the same board/rom code to my knowledge. I'd swear my star shooter does 3x correctly but I've never paid that much attention lol

Drop target mechs are often broken. Pop bumper rods+rings too.

Check my post history, I think I linked the 3d printed versions I designed. Once I got the right material and print settings they've held up fine on location

Backup option, use a LISY80